Boardman CX Owners Thread

Caller

On the Cx Team, if you wanted to remove the secondary brake levers do you need new cables?
If so, any recommendations?
I was thinking about a set of Gore Ride-On cables.

I'm just waiting for my C2W voucher to turn up so I can collect the bike and I'm getting some bits together in the meantime to get fitted when it arrives.

EKE_38BPM

Caller wrote:

On the Cx Team, if you wanted to remove the secondary brake levers do you need new cables?
If so, any recommendations?
I was thinking about a set of Gore Ride-On cables.

I'm just waiting for my C2W voucher to turn up so I can collect the bike and I'm getting some bits together in the meantime to get fitted when it arrives.

Cable inners: no.
Cable outers: yes. The standard outers go from the primary levers to the interrupters, then from the interrupters to the brake calipers but you need to have an uninterrupted run from the primary lever to the brake caliper (front brake) or from the primary lever to the cable stop (rear brake).
Anyway, unless you plan to do some CX races, save yourself £100 (to be spent on bike toys, no doubt) and buy the Kaffenback 2 from Planet X. Better brakes too.

fret

Cable outers: yes. The standard outers go from the primary levers to the interrupters, then from the interrupters to the brake calipers but you need to have an uninterrupted run from the primary lever to the brake caliper (front brake) or from the primary lever to the cable stop (rear brake).

Or use in-line brake adjusters and then you can keep the original outers.

Many CTW schemes only allow you to go to Hellfrauds, so the Boardman range is still the best available.
The brakes may be better, but the groupset and weight on the kaffenback certainly isn't.

EKE_38BPM

fret wrote:

Cable outers: yes. The standard outers go from the primary levers to the interrupters, then from the interrupters to the brake calipers but you need to have an uninterrupted run from the primary lever to the brake caliper (front brake) or from the primary lever to the cable stop (rear brake).

Or use in-line brake adjusters and then you can keep the original outers.

A better idea. Do that if you can.

fret wrote:

Many CTW schemes only allow you to go to Hellfrauds, so the Boardman range is still the best available.
The brakes may be better, but the groupset and weight on the kaffenback certainly isn't.

If you have to use Hellfrauds, get the Boardman, no doubt about that.
If you don't, consider the Kaffenback.
Boardman's own website says the 2014 CX Team in medium without pedals is 10.43kg. My large Kaffenback is 11.39kg with pedals and water bottle holder. The Boardman is 0.96kg (or 8.4% lighter) but that is comparing a medium Boardman with a large Kaffenback.
I weigh about 83kg. Add 12kg for my bike & full water bottle and about 5kg for my rucksack (I have to carry tools, paperwork and 9 Hi-viz vests for work) and you have an all up weight of about 100kg.
Replace my Kaffenback with the CX Team and that is about 99kg.

That 8.4% bike weight saving is now about 1% all up weight saving (remember, comparing a medium CX Team to a large Kaffenback).
Big deal. If it bothers you that much, have a dump before leaving for work!!

CX Comp = SRAM Apex shifters and rear mech (with FSA chainset, Microshift FD & KMC chain). Has your PF30BB started creaking yet? Kaffenback = Tiagra (Shimano everything).
Boardman = Tektro Lyra brakes. Kaffenback = BB7. I don't know if the Tektro brakes are better than the Avids but you say they are, so I'll take your word for it.


So, for your extra £100 you get a ~1% real world weight saving and a mish-mash of groupsets parts (so not really a groupset).
Do Boardman let you choose your handle bar tape, cassette, saddle, tyres or handlebars? Didn't think so.

After doing a fair bit of research (Boardman, Whyte, Revolution, Specialized, Giant, Genesis, Cotic, Surly and Planet X) and finally opting for the Planet X Kaffenback 2, I have come to the conclusion that you all bought the wrong bike!
As a concession I will say that you should think that about everything you buy otherwise you would have made a different choice.

rubertoe

EKE_38BPM wrote:

I have come to the conclusion that you all bought the wrong bike!

You cant argue with that...

veronese68

rubertoe wrote:

EKE_38BPM wrote:

After doing a fair bit of research (Boardman, Whyte, Revolution, Specialized, Giant, Genesis, Cotic, Surly and Planet X) and finally opting for the Planet X Kaffenback 2, I have come to the conclusion that we all bought the wrong bike!

You cant argue with that...

Because you didn't consider the Kinesis. :P

timothyw

Personally, I was put off the Kaffenback because of the £100 fee you have to play with planet-x to use most cycle to work schemes, effectively raising the price up to £900 (and adding an upfront cost that could be otherwise avoided).

Hence why I went for the Fuji Sportif 1.1 from Evans for £920, which gave me 105 brifters, and other 105 components (if not bb7 brakes).

I certainly could have been tempted by their Cyclocross full carbon job for £999 though:
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/CBP ... cross_bike

Unfortunately at the time stock availability seemed lacking, and I wanted it for this winter, not next winter. Still, seems to be in stock now.

EKE_38BPM

Veronese68 wrote:

rubertoe wrote:

EKE_38BPM wrote:

After doing a fair bit of research (Boardman, Whyte, Revolution, Specialized, Giant, Genesis, Cotic, Surly and Planet X) and finally opting for the Planet X Kaffenback 2, I have come to the conclusion that we all bought the wrong bike!

You cant argue with that...

Because you didn't consider the Kinesis. :P

I had a brief look at their website, but at £1400 it was out of my budget. By then I had pretty much decided on the Kaffenback though, so didn't go at it with an open mind. I didn't want any carbon either.
I originally wanted 105 but decided that Tiagra is a better bet for me due to cost of replacements from wear.

koontz

Was just looking at bike and have noticed the brake cables has rubbed on the frame removing the silver paint?, this cant be right I have only ridden this bike 3 times for around 70 miles TOTAL. Was going to let the small hairline crack go but now this, really disapointed with this bike this is the second one as a previous post. Also I got it on cycle to work scheme so cant get refund only swap it for another or maybe differnet bike?, what to do?.

apreading

All bikes seem to do this - solution is to put some helicopter tape on the areas where contact occurs - trouble is that like me you havent done it before the paint rubs, so you will be stuck with some blemish.

koontz

apreading wrote:

All bikes seem to do this - solution is to put some helicopter tape on the areas where contact occurs - trouble is that like me you havent done it before the paint rubs, so you will be stuck with some blemish.

I have a schwinn road bike decent spec thats 8 years old, probably done 5000 miles and there is no paint removed on the frame from cable rubbing or is this specific to cyclcross bikes that have only done 70 miles?. Also there is no cracking on the frame either, my only experience so far with boardman bikes and halfords is very poor.

apreading

In our family fleet, we have had cable rubbing on Specialized, Felt, Giant, Kona and Boardman bikes. Quite a few bikes seem to come with rubbber boots around the cables where they pass the headset, to try and stop it, but they dont seem particularly effective. You can also buy these boots at bike shops etc, so they are obviously needed.

If you have a bike that doesnt rub then you are lucky but I think this is probably the exception. Certainly not a reason to bemoan Halfords, and not really cause to single out Boardman as they are just like the majority in this respect.

Like I say, helicopter tape is the (simple) answer and is almost invisible. Put some on the chainstay too, to safeguard against chain slap and heel strikes.

fret

. Also I got it on cycle to work scheme so cant get refund only swap it for another or maybe differnet bike?, what to do?.

ABSOLUTE RUBBISH!!!

Under the SALE OF GOODS ACT 1979 (AS AMENDED) the item MUST BE FIT FOR PURPOSE and various other points relating to merchantable quality etc etc..
This includes any bad defects in paint, UNLESS THEY WERE POINTED OUT BEFORE THE CONTRACT OF SALE WAS MADE, in which case, for example, you have accepted the crack and have to live with it.

You are entitled to a full refund, even under the CTW scheme, under UK law as the vendor (Halfords) has sold faulty goods.

Boardman have successively made the specs on their bikes less each year to keep the price the same. I'm positive the first TEAM road bike was Ultegra, then 105, for example.
I would put money down on the frame and forks now being of an inferior specification as well.

have a schwinn road bike decent spec thats 8 years old, probably done 5000 miles

Is that all? I do that a year. I must admit my headstock has worn a bit, but I have put insulating tape over the worst areas. The bike is used in all conditions, so it's to be expected a bit, no matter how good a quality the paint is..

Ouija

fret wrote:

. Also I got it on cycle to work scheme so cant get refund only swap it for another or maybe differnet bike?, what to do?.

ABSOLUTE RUBBISH!!!

Under the SALE OF GOODS ACT 1979 (AS AMENDED) the item MUST BE FIT FOR PURPOSE and various other points relating to merchantable quality etc etc..
This includes any bad defects in paint, UNLESS THEY WERE POINTED OUT BEFORE THE CONTRACT OF SALE WAS MADE, in which case, for example, you have accepted the crack and have to live with it.

You are entitled to a full refund, even under the CTW scheme, under UK law as the vendor (Halfords) has sold faulty goods.

Boardman have successively made the specs on their bikes less each year to keep the price the same. I'm positive the first TEAM road bike was Ultegra, then 105, for example.
I would put money down on the frame and forks now being of an inferior specification as well.

have a schwinn road bike decent spec thats 8 years old, probably done 5000 miles

Is that all? I do that a year. I must admit my headstock has worn a bit, but I have put insulating tape over the worst areas. The bike is used in all conditions, so it's to be expected a bit, no matter how good a quality the paint is..

Lol. I'd do that in six months But. Seriously. All paint rubs off eventually from the cables. You can put rubber boots on the cables but they are there to reduce noise, not prevent rub. The only way to prevent rub is to put helicopter tape patches over the areas the cables touch the frame. Anyone who's owned enough bikes and slapped in enough miles over the years knows that you pretty much need to be putting helicopter tape, not just in patches over the rub spots, but along the underside of the bottom tubes and along the top of the chainstay (and a few other places too) if you want the frame to stay in immaculate condition.

fret

If you read the original post it states the bike has done just 70 miles.
That is faulty to me if it's badly worn as it will soon let in the wet and the alloy will start to corrode.

But, as you say, tape is the only way to prevent rubbing and I always do this.

EKE_38BPM

TimothyW wrote:

Personally, I was put off the Kaffenback because of the £100 fee you have to play with planet-x to use most cycle to work schemes, effectively raising the price up to £900 (and adding an upfront cost that could be otherwise avoided).

I didn't know about the £100 fee. Seems like one hell of an admin charge.
I've just gone to their website and had a look at their reasons. "Hmmmmm" is the best I can say.

Reading through this thread, looks like the 2014 Boardmans have some quality control issues, especially with paintwork.

fret

Reading through this thread, looks like the 2014 Boardmans have some quality control issues, especially with paintwork.

To me it looks as if they may have switched their manufacturing plant or gone to a cheaper setup.
Merida used to make their frames, but I personally reckon they have sourced cheap makes now.
They should have kept the quality, even if it put the price up as the CX is a cracking bike.

EKE_38BPM

fret wrote:

Reading through this thread, looks like the 2014 Boardmans have some quality control issues, especially with paintwork.

To me it looks as if they may have switched their manufacturing plant or gone to a cheaper setup.
Merida used to make their frames, but I personally reckon they have sourced cheap makes now.
They should have kept the quality, even if it put the price up as the CX is a cracking bike.

Pun intended?

fret

Possibly a wisecrack.

Jamboness

Jamboness wrote:

OK...if I actually read the whole thread I'd see you had to bend it yourself. That answers my questions.

However, for the back guard did the screws that came with the Chromos fit onto the frame? I found that the nuts didn't screw in enough.

Finding this a real pain in the back side

fret wrote:

Yeah, I had to bend the front to fit, only took about 30-45 minutes to fit them.
I had plenty of different length set screws with mine, so it was easy to fit the rear.

Mudguards often take over an hour to fit to get them true and not rubbing or rattling. Persevere, my friend.

Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you, only got round to looking at the mudguards again. My screws don't seem to fit well, especially the one for the sliding bridge. From the instructions it seems to use one of the medium screws with a nut. However, if I do that, the screw/nut is threaded to stop about 1-2cm down and therefore I can't screw the whole thing in tightly. It's driving me mad, at this rate I'll just buy a pair of waterproofs and give up!

I'm cool with bending the front guard stay around the disc brake. Cheers buddy.

fret

It seems the new is significantly different to the old as I used a short M5 bolt.
Will one of the mudguards stay bolts fit?

Jamboness

Nah mate, I've tried them all. Guess I'll need to work out what will fit and head to a local DIY store I think it's the nut more than the bolt which is restrictive.

rubertoe

Lots of people seem to be having issues with the Boardmans.

Ever feel you have gone for the wrong bike? I assume that most people don't race the Boardmans and as this is a commuting forum I assume that this is what people mostly use them for?

I am sure there are better bikes out there that perform commuting duties better...

EKE_38BPM

Do you know something? I agree!

fret

There probably are, but not to the same spec for the same money for the pre 2014 model.
I checked all of them for several months last year as I do the odd off-road sportive and race and the only oneat the time was the MERIDA CX4 disc, 105 equipped, but 1kg heavier. Nearly all the others at the time had TIagra, Sora or 2300 Group sets and heavier too.
Now, at this present time, I wouldn't even look at the Boardman as each successive version is made to a lesser spec, plus the new one doesn'r even look nice.
I would now buy the Cannondale CAADX Ultegra or one of the many other superb 105 equipped £999.99 bikes.

I think it is almost universal that Boardman have shot themselves in the foot with this present model.

EKE_38BPM

fret wrote:

There probably are, but not to the same spec for the same money for the pre 2014 model.
I checked all of them for several months last year as I do the odd off-road sportive and race and the only oneat the time was the MERIDA CX4 disc, 105 equipped, but 1kg heavier. Nearly all the others at the time had TIagra, Sora or 2300 Group sets and heavier too.
Now, at this present time, I wouldn't even look at the Boardman as each successive version is made to a lesser spec, plus the new one doesn'r even look nice.
I would now buy the Cannondale CAADX Ultegra or one of the many other superb 105 equipped £999.99 bikes.

I think it is almost universal that Boardman have shot themselves in the foot with this present model.

I thought that a horde of Boardman CX fanboys would rush to defend their bike but this hasn't happened. The bit in bold really surprised me as it has come from someone I thought would be one of the lead defenders.

I will now stop Boardman baiting as it feels like I'm kicking a puppy.

veronese68

Fret's right. I would have bought a bike with discs years ago had one been available on the ride to work scheme we use. Now there is finally a reasonable choice in the disc brake drop bar market. My Kinesis may not be the cheapest, but it is the greenest.
Maybe this should be changed to a general disc brake, drop bar thread as a lot of the issues are relevant to similar bikes.

rubertoe

Veronese68 wrote:

Maybe this should be changed to a general disc brake, drop bar thread as a lot of the issues are relevant to similar bikes.

Like this one

fret

I thought that a horde of Boardman CX fanboys would rush to defend their bike but this hasn't happened. The bit in bold really surprised me as it has come from someone I thought would be one of the lead defenders.

I saw through the trolling several posts back.

I will slag off or defend a product where I see fit. One of my first posts complained about the quite useless Microshit front mech and the rim tape. Both addressed in a week or so and I've never had a problem since really apart from the BB giving up, but then the bike had just seen 6 months of hard wet weather use and a 50 mile long off-road sportive which led to water ingress and eventual failure of the BB, which is not the fault of the bike really and can happen to ANY type of BB in harsh conditions. The QR seems to have been sorted out now for tension.
Also, the reviewsat the time for the Boardman were just far better than anything else on the market in 2012.
I read this extensive thread taking in the good and the bad parts, most of which are nothing to someone who knows his way around a set of spanners, before making my mind up.
I went to Belgium last November (Belgium being the home of cyclocross) and went in around a dozen bike shops to see what was about before I made my mind up. The Europeans are well behind the USA and UK in converting to discs and still insist on useless cantilevers so many did not even stock a disc equipped bike.

When I got home it was literally between 3 available bikes at the time. The Merida 105 equipped CX4, the Focus Mares Tiagra and the Boardman. The Merida and Focus had no reviews at the time to compare them, so I went for the Boardman. It's not perfect, the Cannondale was a better ride, but when tests eventually came out for the Focus and Merida I was quite glad I chose what I did.
As I do the odd off-road sortie I think I chose the best bike at the time, even if I have only had Shimano equipped bikes and Sram was new to me. It was the best looking for the price as well, sadly ruined by the new model.

I think most of the problems are through neglect. People fail to realise that a bicycle is not like a car that you can forget about between yearly services. They need permanent attention. Mine ahas a semi-full service every 3 months and a complete strip down every 6 because of the extensive use it gets. Weekly lube and at least a monthly clean in the summer, every 2 weeks in winter if I remember :oops:

In 12 months and around 5000 miles of use I have had nothing go wrong apart from the BB, which is partly my fault as I didn't strip the bike after the CX sportive in March where the BB was under water quite a lot of the time. Only this week did I replace the chain and a couple of cogs on the rear cassette. I've only gone through one set of brake pads, much the same as a rim braked bike but without buying a new set of wheels every 2 years or sooner.



I'm in 2 minds as to why there are now 2 basic models, but can see why they have done it. Buy the cheap one for a work hack and upgrade is a good idea and the price knocks many of the competition into the weeds.
Like MERIDA, there are less middlemen to push prices up as well.
It's a shame the CF ones are so expensive as I am sorely tempted to chop in my RIbble and go fully CF.

Caller

I've just been looking at the Halfords site and they've discounted the left over 2013 Boardmans.

A store that's fairly local to me has the 2013 CX Team available for £820. With the current 10% promotion and the BC discount it drops the price to around £650.
With the discounts in place the 2014 model comes out at £730.

Is the 2014 model worth the extra £80 over the 2013 model?