Boardman CX Owners Thread

fret

They are VERY good mudguards, often considered to be the best made.
Certainly after 18 months of continuous use has not seen a rattle or one adjustment from mine and the rivets are still OK (usually a weak point)
I wouldn't hesitate to buy another pair when these eventually expire.

simonpurwar

I’ve just bought CX Team, and I see that on this 2014 edition there are no eyelets on the front fork for mudguards . I’d really like to fit some so I can use it with some road tyres for my winter commute.
I read on another thread that someone has used Crud roadracer fittings with SKS mudguards. Might give that a try… How well does that work?
Any other suggestions?
Loving the bike by the way.

newtonuk

Hi Simon, I've just fitted a set of SKS Chromoplastic P45 guards to my 2014 Team with 28mm Gator Hardshells. I'm using these on the fork legs to provide a mounting eyelet just above the disc bracket:

http://bit.ly/1iNjO00

I've secured these with an additional zip tie around them as well. Seems to have done the trick so far (well, today at least).

You'll need a single M5 x 60 bolt as well, as the ones supplied with the Chromoplastics are not long enough for the fork crown.

fret

Crud Roadracers WILL NOT FIT!!!!! For starters they need to fit close to the rims and won't fit bigger than 25mm tyres. The stays are not long enough to mate with SKS either, so unless you want it to look hideous then give up!.

In the past I have successfully used cable ties to locate the stays onto forks which have no fixing eyes.
Another good front mudguard, or set, to use is yet another SKS item. The VELO 55.
http://road.cc/content/review/45228-sks ... n-mudguard

They really have ruined one of the best, value for money bikes on the market by using new, possibly cheaper, forks and components to keep the price down I bet.

simonpurwar

Thanks guys! I'm amazed that I got such quick replies with solutions to my question.
I was a bit nervous about attaching anything to the carbon forks for fear of damaging them but I see the strips/ties you suggest are plastic so should be ok. Will give it a go.

Gizmo_

Joined the club



Rat-traps to be binned in favour of SPDs, and some SKS guards will find their way on at some point...

newtonuk

Nice looking bike!

newtonuk

Okay, I'd like some help please with these dreaded BB5s... I've followed the guides but they seem to end up with too much travel at the brake lever... When I dial the brakes in for a better feel at the lever I can't spin the wheel.

BB7s are not an option at the moment, so I would like to get these things set up as best as possible. Any tips on setting them up (that doesn't involve upgrading them to BB7s) please?

TIA

MikeParkin65

newtonuk wrote:

Okay, I'd like some help please with these dreaded BB5s... I've followed the guides but they seem to end up with too much travel at the brake lever... When I dial the brakes in for a better feel at the lever I can't spin the wheel.

BB7s are not an option at the moment, so I would like to get these things set up as best as possible. Any tips on setting them up (that doesn't involve upgrading them to BB7s) please?

TIA

They are going to need to bed in to be truly effective but to reduce the lever travel you need to get the calipers centered on the discs first. There are some really helpful YouTube instructionals but the principle is hold the brake on (I cable tied the lever down) whilst the pad is dialled out, slacken the bolts securing the caliper so that it finds its 'natural centre' by virtue of the pads being held against the disk then tighten up again. Release the lever (cut the cable ties in my case)then dial the pad in until it is just not touching. When the bike is new you might have to readjust the pads a few times as things bed in. Worked for me.

fret

Don't forget to put a card between the disc and pad when doing this, or it will always rub!!
There are many methods on the net, but most of them are similar and worked for me, especially this one http://www.ecovelo.info/2011/04/15/a-fo ... sc-brakes/

BB7's are very similar to set up by all accounts as well, so the upgrade is for performance really.


That actually looks better in your picture than the press releases, Gizmo

fret

I've just received my latest toy to be fitted to the bike. A review will follow this weekend

newtonuk

Thanks Mike, I'll give that a try tonight. Should I wind the cable adjusters back in to begin with? Do I need to loosen the brake cable clamp?

Fret, I've tried following that one, along with many others (as there seems to be slight variations in the approach with regards to brake cable clamp and barrels etc.), and I never seem to be able to get the brake lever dialled in correctly. EVen with these "definitive" solutions, some seem to be more definitive than others. I'm sure I read one that said to put the biz card at the other side of the rotor as well!

Currently I'm riding with the "brakes on", but I know that they work when I grab the levers without bottoming out on the bars (which is where I seem to get to when I follow these instructions).

Gazzaputt

Gizmo_ wrote:

Joined the club



Rat-traps to be binned in favour of SPDs, and some SKS guards will find their way on at some point...

Didn't pickup that up from Blackfen Halfords? Saw the exact same being built in there yesterday. Very very nice looking bike.

MikeParkin65

newtonuk wrote:

Thanks Mike, I'll give that a try tonight. Should I wind the cable adjusters back in to begin with? Do I need to loosen the brake cable clamp?

I didn't touch the cable adjusters or the cable clamp assuming that these were set up reasonably already. I should confess that my experience is with a Ridley X Bow that has BB7. I understand that the key difference between BB5 and 7 is that on the 5s the inboard pad is fixed whereas on the 7 it is adjustable. That been the case, what Fret says is true - you need to put somethingthin between the fixed pad and the disc before locking the brake on otherwise when you release the lock there will be no play between the inboard pad and the disc. Took me a few goes to get my head round what i was doing on mine - I'm no mechanic but it made sense once I could see what I was trying to achieve.

friedpizzainbatter

simonpurwar wrote:

I’ve just bought CX Team, and I see that on this 2014 edition there are no eyelets on the front fork for mudguards . I’d really like to fit some so I can use it with some road tyres for my winter commute.
I read on another thread that someone has used Crud roadracer fittings with SKS mudguards. Might give that a try… How well does that work?
Any other suggestions?
Loving the bike by the way.

I was considering buying the 2014 team as well.
The Boardman website claims:

- Fully mudguard and rear rack compatible

How can they make this claim with no mounts in the fork?

newtonuk

I've been trying to get Boardman and Halfords to answer that!

friedpizzainbatter

Also, would these work as a mount point:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/p-clip-rubbe ... -prod5058/

fret

Probably too small for the CF forks and I wouldn't use them as they could squash the carbon fibre.

I can't see, but are there any drillings/threaded inserts on the INSIDE of the front fork legs halfway down to take 'guards?
If not, then under the SALE OF GOODS ACT, 1979 (AS AMENDED) that as the bike is not as described and therefore "not fit for purpose" you can reject the bike for a full refund, replacement of parts or repair at NO INCONVENIENCE OR COST to yourself by the retailer (not manufacturer). This means they MUST replace the forks for suitable items if you ask them to do so, don't be fobbed off by anything. Also, by "no inconvenience or cost" this means they must ensure you still have a vehicle to use (ie your bike) and that YOU do not have to take the bike in, they are obliged by law to collect it from you to make the repairs.

It seems that Boardman have really destroyed a bike that probably 95% use as a commuter or leisure vehicle with no mudguard mounts.

fret

Probably too small for the CF forks and I wouldn't use them as they could squash the carbon fibre.

I can't see, but are there any drillings/threaded inserts on the INSIDE of the front fork legs halfway down to take 'guards?
If not, then under the SALE OF GOODS ACT, 1979 (AS AMENDED) that as the bike is not as described and therefore "not fit for purpose" you can reject the bike for a full refund, replacement of parts or repair at NO INCONVENIENCE OR COST to yourself by the retailer (not manufacturer). This means they MUST replace the forks for suitable items if you ask them to do so, don't be fobbed off by anything. Also, by "no inconvenience or cost" this means they must ensure you still have a vehicle to use (ie your bike) and that YOU do not have to take the bike in, they are obliged by law to collect it from you to make the repairs.

It seems that Boardman have really destroyed a bike that probably 95% use as a commuter or leisure vehicle with no mudguard mounts.



Keep trying with the brakes. On mine you can just see a gap between the pads and disc as I like little movement on my levers and they do occasionally rub when set up like this. It's taken almost a year to get them exactly how I want them though and have only used one set of pads even if I have to constantly adjust them.
Strangely, there is a review in "Cylcing Active" this month on a Genesis with BB5 brakes and the writer said he never had to adjust them once in the year of long term testing.

friedpizzainbatter

fret wrote:

I can't see, but are there any drillings/threaded inserts on the INSIDE of the front fork legs halfway down to take 'guards?

I was wondering that as well. I've not bought the bike, was going to this weekend. My Trek has hidden mounts, there are holes in the forks that have grub screws, which you remove and put on an eyelet which you can attach mudguards to. I was wondering it Boardman have gone a similar way. Wondered if they'd maybe been hidden under a sticker or something. I'll have a look when I go and pick up the bike. Even if I have to do a bit of fettling in the shed with ties etc, it's still a better buy with the BC 10% discount than most other cx at that price.

Incidentally I heard rumour that Halfords maybe running the 10% weekend again soon, £730 for the team if you can use BC discount as well.

newtonuk

I can confirm that there are no hidden mounts... Or, rather, there are no hidden mounts that I can find, so if they are hidden, they are very well hidden :-)

Axiom do a little product called disc-runner, which is a little metal disc that goes on your QR and provides eyelets, but they don't seem to be readily available.

I'd really like Boardman Bikes to respond to some of my questions regarding the mudguard mounts, but they seem to shy away from any form of Customer Service.

brassnipple

Can't believe that Boardman have deleted the mudguard fittings from the 2014 model fork! Are there still mounts on the rear of the frame to take a guard and a rack? :!: :?:

newtonuk

Yep!

brassnipple

Must be some kind of monumental cock up with the fork spec then! - not logical at all. Its either a cost cutting exercise by deleting some production elements from the fork, or somebody in procurement has made a fundamental specification error!

At least it sounds like you 2014 guys have got something of a work around to allow you to fit front guards.

fret

Let's hope so. :?

Just fitted my latest farkle.
A lovely, shiny, new SRAM FORCE WiFli derailleur. Mmmmm Dead easy to set up, only a couple of tweaks to set the inner and outer limits of travel and then get exact actuation.
A new chain fitted as well, but it now seems my rear cassette is FUBAR after a year/4000+ miles of use as it now jumps in 5th/17T, which is the ratio I use the most. I had this on my old CX9, so it has covered a fair few months and miles now, probably over 7000, so not bad going I guess.

brassnipple

Interesting - I'm thinking of going WiFli as I'm already down to a 11-28t and would welcome a couple more downshifts for trail rides.

What size cassette are you running / planning to run?

antsmithmk

Took mine out cross riding this afternoon. Whilst I love the trail blazing, the sora shifters are starting to annoy me. They are so clickety clickey, clunking, non crisp and somehow managed to derail the chain between 32T and the spokes today, despite the limit screws being set ok. I also skidded off on a tarmac path, the stock tyres are poor for off roaring. Just wanted to vent, I do love the bike really!!!

fret

brassnipple wrote:

Interesting - I'm thinking of going WiFli as I'm already down to a 11-28t and would welcome a couple more downshifts for trail rides.

What size cassette are you running / planning to run?

The "old" CX already comes with Apex Wi-Fli as standard with an 11-32 cassette.
For road/commuting duties an 11-28 has been fitted (or it could be a 27, I forget) I will more than likely fit a 12-27 or similar as I rarely use the small sprockets at present, or even go the 46T front ring route to use more ratios.
For off-road I use the standard 11-32.

I may just buy a replacement Ultegra 17T rear sprocket in the interim period though as that is the one that has worn out.

Took mine out cross riding this afternoon. Whilst I love the trail blazing, the sora shifters are starting to annoy me. They are so clickety clickey, clunking, non crisp and somehow managed to derail the chain between 32T and the spokes today, despite the limit screws being set ok. I also skidded off on a tarmac path, the stock tyres are poor for off roaring. Just wanted to vent, I do love the bike really!!!

Probably needs settling in if it's new. Surely if you skidded on a tarmac path then that isn't off-roading? Tyre pressures are also quite important.

brassnipple

fret wrote:

brassnipple wrote:

The "old" CX already comes with Apex Wi-Fli as standard with an 11-32 cassette.
For road/commuting duties an 11-28 has been fitted (or it could be a 27, I forget) I will more than likely fit a 12-27 or similar as I rarely use the small sprockets at present, or even go the 46T front ring route to use more ratios.
For off-road I use the standard 11-32.

I may just buy a replacement Ultegra 17T rear sprocket in the interim period though as that is the one that has worn out.

Interesting - I would have said that 11-32 makes perfect sense for the cx as standard because it gives a good 'jack of all trades' gear spread, despite being very wide ratio.

My CX pro came with 11-27 as standard, which not being superhuman, made it a challenge to get up really steep / technical stuff. I may well go the WiFli route next year.

brassnipple

antsmithmk wrote:

Took mine out cross riding this afternoon. Whilst I love the trail blazing, the sora shifters are starting to annoy me. They are so clickety clickey, clunking, non crisp and somehow managed to derail the chain between 32T and the spokes today, despite the limit screws being set ok. I also skidded off on a tarmac path, the stock tyres are poor for off roaring. Just wanted to vent, I do love the bike really!!!

Sounds like a frustrating afternoon's riding! I have no experience of Sora shifters, but they seem well regarded so might be worth looking at cable tensions, or as Fret said, just giving them a few miles to bed in. Upgrading to something like 105's might be a good call if you still can't get along with them?

Assuming that you have the Excavader tyres on your CX, I'm surprised that you are not getting on with them. I find them a really good all round free road / off road' tyre - I can certainly lean them over quite nicely off road. Not the best in loose or muddy conditions, but then a more condition specific 'knobbly' tyre is probably best used there.

If you were riding on wet tarmac then pretty much any tyre will give way at some point if you lean it over far enough.

Tomorrow is another day!