Boardman CX Owners Thread

Tim_Banker

cookdn wrote:

Tim_Banker wrote:

My chain got stuck in the rear mech on my ride home from work on Sunday morning. Consequently my rear mech wrapped itself around the cassette.

Which SRAM rear mech do I need to replace it with? According to the Boardman bikes website it came with an Apex mech but when I've checked on Evans and Chain Reaction the Apex is only suitable for a cassette up to 32T?? Is there another Apex mech out there somewhere that is made just for Boardmans?

You want the medium cage option (CRC, Wiggle & Ribble). Ribble are the cheapest @ £37.56.

Best regards

Many Thanks

tincaman

I see that the Shimano MT75 wheelset can now be had for £250http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/WPSHXT29/shimano_xt_29er_mt75_mtb_centrelock_disc_wheelset#basket

andyrr

Firstly, apoloigies as a non-Boardman CX ownder (or even prospective owner) but the B-CX is close enough to my forthcoming steed to be directly relevant. I've just bought a Jamis Nova Sport CX bike to be picked up on Saturday and I'll be fitting full SKS 'guards to this. The bike comes with 32mm tyres - I may keep with these for now (ie until spring time or until they wear out) but as I've a pair of Conti 4 Seasons in 25/28 pairing I have that option.
So, the main question (as I've just thought of a secondary one as I typed the above) is whether the wide SKS Chromoplastic 'guards are the safe bet so that the 32mm tyre fitting is catered for easily or would the neater narrow version, which are supposedly for up to 28mms, still work ok on this ?
Also if anyone has experience of the XN's I'd appreciate it - they appear to have a puncture belt fitted so that allays some of my fears of these being more an off-road tyre without as much protection for road holes etc but the 4 Seasons get so many good reps I wonder if I'll be off-setting the chunky bike with the nicer & quicker rolling tyres ?

bails87

I've got SKS Bleumels which cover up to (I think) 35mm tyres, like my winter marathons. But most of the time I run 25mm GP4Seasons and there isn't a problem. I'm sure the wider guards weigh a few grams more than the narrower ones but that doesn't bother me, being able to change tyres without having to change guard too is more important.

fret

I have the SKS CHROMOPLASTIC P35 on my bike. These are supposed to be OK for 20-28m, but I have used up to 35mm tyres and haven't suffered from spray (They are 35mm wide)
No rattles when fitted to both my old CX9 or the CX since May last year and around 4000 miles. What I have done, though, is to fit them when using the 28section Gatorskins and then making sure there is enough adjustment when I fit the 32 or 35mm off road tyres.

fret

Hmmm, some strange noises from the front brake. Rear is fine still, but then I hardly use that.
Plenty of meat on the pads (only done 550 miles in the 6 weeks of riding)
No scoring on the discs.
Forks/stem/headset isn't loose as it's bedded in.
Pads are evenly worn.
I took the pads out and reversed them (moving to fixed, fixed to moving side) which has made it better, but not perfect.

The noise only appears when I brake hard and I can only think it may be the slots making noises on the pads and being amplified by the forks and mudguard as one of the stays rests against the caliper.
I shall investigate.

tincaman

Bottom bracket is now clicking, lasted about 3000 miles. Have sourced some cheap 6806-2RS bearings, £10 for 5, lets see how they last. Will be making up removal and install tools in the workshop next week.

fret

The BB on my CX9 clicked until I tightened it several times in the first 2 months of ownership.

tincaman

New bearings for BB now fitted, very easy job. The old ones felt fine out of the bike. Took the caps off the bearings and the grease inside is pure white, would that be emulsified or can you get white grease?

cookdn

tincaman wrote:

New bearings for BB now fitted, very easy job. The old ones felt fine out of the bike. Took the caps off the bearings and the grease inside is pure white, would that be emulsified or can you get white grease?

The contents of both tubes of bike specific grease I have is white.

Best regards

fret

Lithium grease is white. Common for treaders and head bearings on mc's.

Found a wee problem with the cold abd discs this morning. They DO take a while to warm up and cool quickly.......................................when it gets to -3C Spare wheels are all ready should it snow.

Getting more used to it after 7 weeks of owning(6 weeks riding) Not as comfortable or flighty as the Cannondale, but that was a full on race bike. Soon be as one with it I daresay. I should book the 6 week free service :oops: when I get time.
All I have to sort is the rubbing disc when stomping up hills where either the frame or forks flex. Can't sort the noise of the front brakes, so I'll live with that.

I'll give it 9/10 overall so far

fret

Fitted the off road wheels for the snow. Disc problem sorted.........................temporarily as it's the discs themselves on the OEM wheels that make the noise..

gotwood25

Hello all, new to the board although been reading for quite some time and thought it was about time I signed up.

Been commuting a 20 mile round trip for around 3 years now and upgraded to a CX Team last summer after I out grew my GT Aggressor. This coming year looking to do some short distance slightly competitive rides (signing up for Virgin Cyclone, Bike for Bobby and Great North Bike Ride) as I look to take it a bit more seriously.

Was hoping for a bit of advice on road tyres, I have been running the standard Ritchey Escavaders over the winter but looking for a decent road tyre for when the weather improves. Any recommendations?

Also, totally unrelated. I had an off a few weeks before Christmas with my shoulder and handle bar taking most of the impact. Unfortunately the plastic lug on the SRAM shifter that holds the brake lever snapped rendering it totally useless and need replacing (at a cost of £180!!). Although the unit itself is fine, if anyone needs any internals/spares from it let me know.

tincaman

Continental Sport Contact 28mm are my new favorite tyre, great all round grip, wet or dry and roll really well. I then change over to the Conti Top Contact Winter II when it gets really cold.

meanredspider

gotwood25 wrote:

it totally useless and need replacing (at a cost of £180!!). Although the unit itself is fine, if anyone needs any internals/spares from it let me know.

Bummer. Would probably have been a good time to swap to Shimano.

As for tyres, Vittoria Rubino Pro - 25c - can't say enough good things about them: Light, quick (150TPI), great puncture resistance and can be found for as little as £18.

gotwood25

Cheers for the updates chaps. Will check them both out.

With regard to the shifters, do you rate the Shimano over the SRAM models? I actually really like the Apex shifter so didn't look into changing. Also it was only the single shifter that broke so probably the cost wouldn't have justified swapping both.

meanredspider

gotwood25 wrote:

Cheers for the updates chaps. Will check them both out.

With regard to the shifters, do you rate the Shimano over the SRAM models? I actually really like the Apex shifter so didn't look into changing. Also it was only the single shifter that broke so probably the cost wouldn't have justified swapping both.

I made the change when I had mine and results in much nicer shifting - especially at the front. Groupsets from somewhere like Merlin are very reasonable (from time-to-time) and the overall cost is minimal if you sell off the left-overs.

tincaman

Yes, I also swapped to Shimano 5700 105, shifters £120 second hand, as new, rear mech £22 as new, sold the Apex shifters for £90 and the Apex rear mech for £20

fret

I was very sceptical about the SRAM shifters. But in real world daily use I find them VERY positive in their action and easier to operate than any of the Shimano items I have had on my road bikes, old 105, Ultegra and even the current Ultegra 6700!! Especially at present with a pair of thick gloves on.
I admit this mainly refers to the REAR mech as there isn't much, if any, difference between the Rival and Ultegra I have on each bike and I haven't ridden the bike with summer gloves, so my reviews may be a bit jaded. Perhaps I shall change my mind in the Spring and Summer. :oops: I'm still debating going either all out for RED or Ultegra DI2 as well. Although had I not bought a new Bass this year I was going to spend the money on Ultegra DI2

I still like either Gatorskins or Bontrager racelites for all year round as I commute on the bike, one puncture last year after 9 months/3-4000 miles of use is as good an endorsement as I can give. Continental GP 4 season (?) and GP4000 are also highly recommended by my LBS who also run a race team.
I use 28's at present for a bit nmore grip and comfort but have used 25's in the past and the old CX9 and previous commuters nearly always had 23's.
Lack of punctures far outweighs the weight advantages
Let's face it, the bike isn't a lightweight roadbike.

gotwood25

I must say I really do like the double rap shifters and had no issue with the SRAM apex ones until after the new one fitted and the cable bedding in. For a novice like me I found then relatively eat to adjust and think I gave got them running smoothly again which is great as there is nothing worse than going to the LBS and asking them to sort trivial things like that out.

I was having a look at the continental gp 4's and think I will give them a whirl although with this weather don't know when I am going to get a chance to run them.

fret

I've fitted the OEM's to a pair of cheap wheels for this weather. They seem to work OK and I let them down to around 40psi for the few days we had that funny white stuff. You can certainly tell they are heavier and the wheels roll more slowly, but sound like a mini Landrover

wsceats

Got my CX Team through CTW and very happy with it. As suggested 28 gatorskins and SKS guards make it a fantastic commuter and all-rounder.

I’ve not done 200 miles on it yet but the headset’s come loose. Tried to tighten it yesterday (loosened stem bolts first!) and need to torque the bolt far too hard to do so - almost as if there weren’t sufficient spacers – and the headset came loose again on my ride into work this morning. Could this be the compression plug lifting? I’ve had a look through this forum but can find a fix for this. Any suggestions? Or is it a ‘take back to Halfords and let them try to fix / rectify’ issue?

tincaman

The headset has pulled up through the steerer and no amount of extra force will tighten it up. You are just tightening the cap onto the compression plug. I happened to me and I had to get a new compression plug. Take it back to Halfords for them to sort out.

wsceats

@ tincaman – many thanks indeed. Forgive my ignorance, but can I not adjust the compression plug (loosen it, re-seat it, tighten to stop moving again) and then try to re-tighten the top-cap to take up headset slack? Or have I just asked a very stupid question? :oops: Anything I can do to avoid have to return to Halfrauds I will! Thanks!

Ouija

wsceats wrote:

@ tincaman – many thanks indeed. Forgive my ignorance, but can I not adjust the compression plug (loosen it, re-seat it, tighten to stop moving again) and then try to re-tighten the top-cap to take up headset slack? Or have I just asked a very stupid question? :oops: Anything I can do to avoid have to return to Halfrauds I will! Thanks!

Nope. Perfectly doable. Most compression plugs have a larger hex key hole immediately surrounding the hole that the top cap screw goes into. Simply use a big hex key to loosen the plug, press it further down the top tube, tighten it up again then put the top can on and tighten. Simple.

Make sure you get the plug really tight or when you screw the top cap in it'll just pull it up the steerer tube until it's touching the top cap. A lot of people make the mistake of thinking that tightening the top cap expands the plug some how, but it doesn't (until it's already been pulled up the steerer and touching the top cap). If you don't expand the plug very firmly before your start putting a top cap near it, it just wont work.

cookdn

Ouija wrote:

Nope. Perfectly doable. Most compression plugs have a larger hex key hole immediately surrounding the hole that the top cap screw goes into. Simply use a big hex key to loosen the plug, press it further down the top tube, tighten it up again then put the top can on and tighten. Simple.

Make sure you get the plug really tight or when you screw the top cap in it'll just pull it up the steerer tube until it's touching the top cap. A lot of people make the mistake of thinking that tightening the top cap expands the plug some how, but it doesn't (until it's already been pulled up the steerer and touching the top cap). If you don't expand the plug very firmly before your start putting a top cap near it, it just wont work.

I've been having this problem and did what you describe a couple of weeks ago. So-far, so-good and I haven't had to retighten the headset since (I also removed two spacers that the LBS put in to increase the distance between the top of the headtube and the top cap when they looked at this in the summer :?).

Potentially stupid question; is the steerer tube carbon or alloy on the standard Team CX forks? I was a bit unsure how much torque I should apply (by-hand rather than torque wrench) to the compression plug so that it had a firm grip on the inside of the steerer. Consequently I was a bit cautious.

Best regards

fret

The steerer is carbon, hence the pug in the above posts.

Glad to get the road wheels/tyres back on today, much better for commuting on tarmac than the cross tyres.
Just a pain to adjust the brakes each time I change wheels.

wsceats

Ouija / cookdn - Many thanks for responses. I’ve just had a play around with it over lunch and that seems to work. In exchange for your most welcome advice, the compression plug torque guidance is 8nM max (or so it says on my FSA one, which guessing if you also have CX Teams will be the same...) so once i get home I’ll get the torque wrench out and even try to do it properly! Cheers!

fret

Don't try the method of "Just one more 1/4 turn" :oops: :roll:


Good news on the front brake. It has stopped making a noise. No idea why.

Burndust

really considering this bike as my next purchase....a bit concerned with the issues over parts wearing out to soon and the BB not being greased etc....are these legacy problems that have been resolved, are they stil experiencing these problems, from what i can tell the bike gets a big thumbs up in general...and my local halfords are actually pretty good at setting up their bikes....luckily