Boardman CX Owners Thread

essex-commuter

Anyone know what hubs are on the standard wheels, are they Ritchey?

More to the point, what about the bearings? I've just noticed some play in my front wheel, the 'axle' doesn't spin particularly freely (I would have it looser/smoother if I was adjusting it) but there is significant play.

I'm going to take it apart when I get home but just wondering if anyone knew what bearings? Sealed / loose?

fret

Good point ref the hubs as I am thinking of getting some of Stan's hoops to rebuild some lighter ones.

Just been out on a 35 mile ride, saw 2 other CX's around the South Downs, but all on road tyres. I certainly wasn't the slowest around as I passed many younger riders on pure road bikes on a lot of climbs, PLUS I am on road gearing (12-25) on the rear.
2 1/4 hours is quite good for an old fart I think.

thewilliams

Hi all, just picked up my New BCX from Halfords and Im just not confident that they set any part of the bike up properly. This has questioning one or two things and I'd appreciate some advice to set my mind at rest.

My first issue is the gearing that really wasn't adjusted correctly at all. After tinkering and getting them within the SRAM tolerances in their manual I still have two issues.

1. Should it be possible in theory to ride on the largest gear (rear) and the largest gear (front)? If I do this the angle is so great the chain slips off the bottom jockey wheel and makes a right racket. Is this normal with this setup? If it is I'll live with it.

2. The front mech seems impossible to get perfect. It seems I can either get it to run smooth on the large OR small gears but not both as the chain will rub on the arm. It seems too narrow.

3. Finally the wire routing underneath the bike has 3 cables. Rear brake and the gears. My issue is the front mech cable actually crosses over the brake cable at the BB end. This doesn't seem right to me?

There some other little things like the brakes rub but I can live with that for now.

Cheers guys, any advise would be appreciated.

meanredspider

Ok - I think most of your issues are to do with point 1

No - you can't run the chain crossed up like that. 6 maybe 7 of the smaller gears with the bigger ring and 6-7 larger cogs with the small ring. Try any more than this and you will get rubbing on the from mech.
And yes, the cables do cross over at some point.

Hope that helps

fret

That's not true with SRAM, but Shimano will rub. SRAM has a wider front mech designed to work specifically as above. You can trim it, but correctly adjusted it shouldn't need doing.
You CAN run the smallest two or largest two cogs, BUT it's not to be recommended as the chain will wear prematurely and may rub or be noisy. There are 20 ratios to choose from, so at least one or two will possibly cross over.

Just on a personal method I go down to the 4th ratio on the big ring and then drop to the smaller front ring, maybe cogging up 1 or 2 ratios on the rear. Going back up I generally change to the big ring when on the 3rd ratio on the cassette. (If that makes sense)
However, this is on road gearing (12-25) so it may be different on the OEM 11-32.
And as we will all be different then it won't be the same for all. :idea:

meanredspider

Possibly why the front microshift is so nasty on the SRAM set-up then. I swapped mine to 105 at the first opportunity. Chalk and cheese.

@thewilliams - might be worth checking that your front mech is lined up right (parallel to the front rings) - mine rotated around the downtube.

cookdn

meanredspider wrote:

Possibly why the front microshift is so nasty on the SRAM set-up then. I swapped mine to 105 at the first opportunity. Chalk and cheese.

@thewilliams - might be worth checking that your front mech is lined up right (parallel to the front rings) - mine rotated around the downtube.

Interesting, I have a second-hand SRAM Rival front-mech in my parts box which I haven't got round to fitting. Maybe I'll make the effort and see what difference it makes over the supplied Microshift.

Best regards

Burndust

well it would appear that halfords now have these back in....now just to find another 10 percent discount sonewhere on topthe bc discount lol

arthur_scrimshaw

essex-commuter wrote:

Anyone know what hubs are on the standard wheels, are they Ritchey?

More to the point, what about the bearings? I've just noticed some play in my front wheel, the 'axle' doesn't spin particularly freely (I would have it looser/smoother if I was adjusting it) but there is significant play.

I'm going to take it apart when I get home but just wondering if anyone knew what bearings? Sealed / loose?

Mine are cup and cone, had to buy a set of 17mm cone spanners though as my existing set only go up to 16mm. Had to lock up the disk side and adjust on the other side as the disk gets in the way.

arthur_scrimshaw

cookdn wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Possibly why the front microshift is so nasty on the SRAM set-up then. I swapped mine to 105 at the first opportunity. Chalk and cheese.

@thewilliams - might be worth checking that your front mech is lined up right (parallel to the front rings) - mine rotated around the downtube.

Interesting, I have a second-hand SRAM Rival front-mech in my parts box which I haven't got round to fitting. Maybe I'll make the effort and see what difference it makes over the supplied Microshift.

Best regards

I also swapped the microshift fd for a 105, much smoother and less pressure needed to shift. Will change the whole lot over to 105 when Merlin prices are right.

fret

Swap the front mech at the soonest opportunity. The OEM Microshit is awful. I now have Rival (or is it Force?)and it's far superior.

Still debating swapping the Ultegra from the C/F road bike to the CX, but the doubletap system seems to be a better system when used off-road. It's more precise and you know you have shifted, unlike Shimano at times when it gets a bit fiddly. I NEVER thought I would say I prefer the SRAM, but it's slick and precise, if a little clunky compared to Shimano, designed to be used with the BB5/BB7 brakes obvously as they are both made by SRAM and for the weight weenies it wins hands down by 300g if you choose Force.

cookdn

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

I also swapped the microshift fd for a 105, much smoother and less pressure needed to shift. Will change the whole lot over to 105 when Merlin prices are right.

Ribble are doing full Shimano 5700 105 groupsets for £375 (Merlin currently £420).

arthur_scrimshaw

cookdn wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

I also swapped the microshift fd for a 105, much smoother and less pressure needed to shift. Will change the whole lot over to 105 when Merlin prices are right.

Ribble are doing full Shimano 5700 105 groupsets for £375 (Merlin currently £420).

Cheers for the link, I only need the RD and shifters, maybe a new cassette? Not sure if the the 105 RD will cope with a 32? Or if the Shifters will be ok with disc brakes?

cookdn

MRS is your man on compatibility but I'm sure a number of people on here have swapped the SRAM Apex shifters for Shimano 105. The new Tiagra groupset has the option of a long cage RD for the 12-30T cassette.

essex-commuter

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

essex-commuter wrote:

Anyone know what hubs are on the standard wheels, are they Ritchey?

More to the point, what about the bearings? I've just noticed some play in my front wheel, the 'axle' doesn't spin particularly freely (I would have it looser/smoother if I was adjusting it) but there is significant play.

I'm going to take it apart when I get home but just wondering if anyone knew what bearings? Sealed / loose?

Mine are cup and cone, had to buy a set of 17mm cone spanners though as my existing set only go up to 16mm. Had to lock up the disk side and adjust on the other side as the disk gets in the way.

Yep, loose bearings, 12 either side. Cleaned, regreased, adjusted. Sweet.

Burndust

just about to pull the pin and purchase...from what i've gathered a medium should hopefully be fine, i'm 5ft 9

meanredspider

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Cheers for the link, I only need the RD and shifters, maybe a new cassette? Not sure if the the 105 RD will cope with a 32? Or if the Shifters will be ok with disc brakes?

I swapped over to 105 and it improved everything. The brakes are actually better because the levers are stiffer on 105 than Apex. I also much prefer the shifter hoods on 105 - so much more comfortable. Plus, because 105 doesn't have those SRAM paddles on the rear-most shift lever, even if you get a bit of extra travel between adjustments, the shifter won't catch on the bars.

I can't remember off hand what the biggest cassette Shimano now do - I think it may be 32.

tincaman

meanredspider wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Cheers for the link, I only need the RD and shifters, maybe a new cassette? Not sure if the the 105 RD will cope with a 32? Or if the Shifters will be ok with disc brakes?

I swapped over to 105 and it improved everything. The brakes are actually better because the levers are stiffer on 105 than Apex. I also much prefer the shifter hoods on 105 - so much more comfortable. Plus, because 105 doesn't have those SRAM paddles on the rear-most shift lever, even if you get a bit of extra travel between adjustments, the shifter won't catch on the bars.

I can't remember off hand what the biggest cassette Shimano now do - I think it may be 32.

Leave the SRAM 11-32 cassette on there as they are interchangeable with Shimano and get a long 105 rear mech, it copes fine

fret

Burndust wrote:

just about to pull the pin and purchase...from what i've gathered a medium should hopefully be fine, i'm 5ft 9

5'9" as well, I have a Medium. JFDI

cookdn

fret wrote:

Burndust wrote:

just about to pull the pin and purchase...from what i've gathered a medium should hopefully be fine, i'm 5ft 9

5'9" as well, I have a Medium. JFDI

Snap height-wise but I must have short legs (29" inside leg measurement). Ended up with the small as I could hardly stand over the medium and have swapped the 100mm head-stem for a 120mm.

fret

Some good points ref the gearing and mechs, MeanRed. Never thought about how the "paddles" can get trapped, but they do go very close to the 'bars and need regular adjustment, so I see exactly what you mean. One of my customers is offering to "treat" me to a Di2 when he does his next big fire alarm order as a "Multispeed changeover switch". If so then the mechanical version will definitely find its way to the CX

I had an Ultegra long cage on the CX9 fitted to a close ratio 11-23 road cassette and it worked fine, even with the 46-36 front rings. After that it was then put onto my Ribble road bike with proper man sized front rings. The shifts may be slightly slower, but that's it really.

fret

swapped the 100mm head-stem for a 120mm.

I think the stem on the standard may be too long for me at 110mm. I've got some shorter reach 'bars on order to see if that will help as I find myself sliding towards the front of the saddle all the time, yet it's the same position as all my other bikes with similar geometry. I think a proper bike fit is in order.

Gixxer2812

Just thought I'd update... today I bought my Boardman CX Team from Halfords, am delighted with it. Haven't had it out yet, still find my way into the world of cycling, but itching to get going.

I have to say my next-but-one-nearest Halfords were very helpful. They ordered a slightly damaged ex-display model from another store for me and a colleague to look at, and we both liked it so we ordered one each in a Large frame. They came the next day. The woman said their Head Office had just taken delivery of 12.

I pick the bike up tomorrow, can't wait.

gotwood25

I have spent a small fortune using different bike shops to get my gears and brakes running perfectly thanks to the good people at Edinburgh cycles. I heeded the advice on here and decided to replace my tyres for some nice shiny Continental 4 Seasons, just got them on and they look the business. Spin the wheels however and the gear alignment is all over the shop.

Now without wanting to look completely stupid (in my first post I did mention that I knew absolutely nothing about bikes) what am I doing wrong? Or will replacing the tyre need a certain amount of tweaking to re-align? I don't want to touch them as, as I say they were perfect. Nor do I really want to go back to the bike shop and say I have broken my bike after less than a week by doing something only real men should be allowed to do.

Help please!!

andyrr

Abolutely no reason for a tyre change to foul up the gear changing so I'd try to
a) Get the rear wheel out again then put back in place ensuring that it's located correctly in the frame in case it was nto in quite properly before
and it that doesn't sort it try
b) the mech adjustment (more likely the cable tension than the indexing screw) got moved during the wheel swaps. Worth a try to tighten/loosen the tension say 1/2 turn 1 way or 1/2 the other, noting your starting point, to see if that does the trick. Rear mech adjustment can be a little tricky or finicky but it isn't mega complicated. There are guides - eg on youtube - Park do some, and are good to take a look at to get an idea of what to do to get your gears setup.

gotwood25

Yeah tried all that and still no joy, my two year old son was spinning the quick release bar on the wheel while it was off but don't think that would affect anything but apart from that nothing has changed.

Think I am going to have to bite the bullet and take it back to the shop. Leave it to a proper man to fix. Cheers for your reply.

bails87

Make sure the qr is tight enough. With the bike the right way up release the qr, push the saddle down so that the wheel is fully seated in the dropouts and do the qr back up. It should be tight enough to leave an imprint in your palm but not too tight to need a crow bar to undo it.

cookdn

andyrr wrote:

b) the mech adjustment (more likely the cable tension than the indexing screw) got moved during the wheel swaps. Worth a try to tighten/loosen the tension say 1/2 turn 1 way or 1/2 the other, noting your starting point, to see if that does the trick. Rear mech adjustment can be a little tricky or finicky but it isn't mega complicated. There are guides - eg on youtube - Park do some, and are good to take a look at to get an idea of what to do to get your gears setup.

On a new bike(/cable) I've found that this will quickly need adjustment.

I was given a top-tip by one of the mechanics at Wheelbase when I took my nearly new CX into them with similar problems :? and it hasn't let me down since. Basically you turn the barrel-adjuster on the rear mech in the direction in which you want the mech to move to stop the chain skipping sprockets on the cassette. If you need the mech to move inwards (towards the cassette) twist anti-clockwise and outwards twist clockwise. Just twist it a one or two clicks at a time and then re-test.

Make sense?

gotwood25

bails87 wrote:

Make sure the qr is tight enough. With the bike the right way up release the qr, push the saddle down so that the wheel is fully seated in the dropouts and do the qr back up. It should be tight enough to leave an imprint in your palm but not too tight to need a crow bar to undo it.

Amazingly this seems to have done the trick, I guess when tightening the QR while the bike was resting on the saddle/handle bars it was possibly pushing the wheel slightly out of the dropouts so throwing the alignment. Seems obvious now.

The cable tension also needed a few turns but it seems to be back to normal.

Thanks again for your help chaps.

Burndust

cheers for all the advice guys....just purchased one....pick up on fri, will ensure that the BB has been looked at, and give the bike a good looking over before i leave the shop....my local halfords are pretty ok actually