Boardman CX Owners Thread

cjcp

meanredspider wrote:

cjcp wrote:

I didn't go for the disc option because I don't commute on my CX bike.

I'm kinda confused by this statement - what is it that you do on your CX for which discs wouldn't be an advantage (and having a CX would)? I can imagine that discs on a TT bike don't add much value, for instance.

I do quite a bit of riding on the trail around the local park, but it's just weekend hacking. I don't race anywhere near as much as I'd like to, so I can't justify the cost of buying discs just for the weekend stuff.

I did however justify the cost of a lighter frame and forks to myself, for those occasions when I do race. As far as racing's concerned, though, I've heard that tubs would represent a better upgrade than discs at the moment.

tgotb

cjcp wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

cjcp wrote:

I didn't go for the disc option because I don't commute on my CX bike.

I'm kinda confused by this statement - what is it that you do on your CX for which discs wouldn't be an advantage (and having a CX would)? I can imagine that discs on a TT bike don't add much value, for instance.

I do quite a bit of riding on the trail around the local park, but it's just weekend hacking. I don't race anywhere near as much as I'd like to, so I can't justify the cost of buying discs just for the weekend stuff.

I did however justify the cost of a lighter frame and forks to myself, for those occasions when I do race. As far as racing's concerned, though, I've heard that tubs would represent a better upgrade than discs at the moment.

The other factor is that cantis are still quite a bit lighter than discs (especially when you factor in the heavier forks required for discs). Although the stopping power of cantis is pretty ordinary, you wouldn't be using your brakes that much in a race anyway, and the weight is with you all the time...

muzzan

Hi Folks,

Further to my question a week or 2 ago about freehub replacement, they did replace the freehub under warranty (it had completely gone by then). Thing is, on the receipt the part is down as "Subway 2 FHB 19.99". I expected the part to be a fair bit more expensive, am I being paranoid or is this some cheap part they have used instead of the original part? Does anybody know what freehub should be used with the original wheels/cassette?

Thanks again

cjcp

TGOTB wrote:

cjcp wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

cjcp wrote:

I didn't go for the disc option because I don't commute on my CX bike.

I'm kinda confused by this statement - what is it that you do on your CX for which discs wouldn't be an advantage (and having a CX would)? I can imagine that discs on a TT bike don't add much value, for instance.

I do quite a bit of riding on the trail around the local park, but it's just weekend hacking. I don't race anywhere near as much as I'd like to, so I can't justify the cost of buying discs just for the weekend stuff.

I did however justify the cost of a lighter frame and forks to myself, for those occasions when I do race. As far as racing's concerned, though, I've heard that tubs would represent a better upgrade than discs at the moment.

The other factor is that cantis are still quite a bit lighter than discs (especially when you factor in the heavier forks required for discs). Although the stopping power of cantis is pretty ordinary, you wouldn't be using your brakes that much in a race anyway, and the weight is with you all the time...

Had a brief exchange with one of the guys in the club about this. Weight of the discs was another factor.

meanredspider

TGOTB wrote:

cjcp wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

cjcp wrote:

I didn't go for the disc option because I don't commute on my CX bike.

I'm kinda confused by this statement - what is it that you do on your CX for which discs wouldn't be an advantage (and having a CX would)? I can imagine that discs on a TT bike don't add much value, for instance.

I do quite a bit of riding on the trail around the local park, but it's just weekend hacking. I don't race anywhere near as much as I'd like to, so I can't justify the cost of buying discs just for the weekend stuff.

I did however justify the cost of a lighter frame and forks to myself, for those occasions when I do race. As far as racing's concerned, though, I've heard that tubs would represent a better upgrade than discs at the moment.

The other factor is that cantis are still quite a bit lighter than discs (especially when you factor in the heavier forks required for discs). Although the stopping power of cantis is pretty ordinary, you wouldn't be using your brakes that much in a race anyway, and the weight is with you all the time...

I don't do any CX racing but I see all the top guys bikes that are on here with discs and all the CX bikes reviewed seem to have comments about whether or not they are disc braked (with discs clearly indicated as an advantaged). How much lighter ARE cantis than discs. My own measurements on disc versus side actuated road brakes suggested it was a few 10's of grams and that tyre and innertube choice would make a more significant difference from a weight perspective.

Clearly, pootling about the park you're not worried either way.

fret

It's only the Europeans who seem to be sticking with traditional cantis. The few hundred grammes weight disadvantage from discs is negated by the stopping advantages.
Besides, current race bikes are down to 7.5kg or thereabouts, the same as canti equipped bikes.

veronese68

meanredspider wrote:

Clearly, pootling about the park you're not worried either way.

You haven't seen the speed CJ plotless at!

Edit: POOTLES!!! Poxy iPhone.

tgotb

meanredspider wrote:

TGOTB wrote:

cjcp wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

cjcp wrote:

I didn't go for the disc option because I don't commute on my CX bike.

I'm kinda confused by this statement - what is it that you do on your CX for which discs wouldn't be an advantage (and having a CX would)? I can imagine that discs on a TT bike don't add much value, for instance.

I do quite a bit of riding on the trail around the local park, but it's just weekend hacking. I don't race anywhere near as much as I'd like to, so I can't justify the cost of buying discs just for the weekend stuff.

I did however justify the cost of a lighter frame and forks to myself, for those occasions when I do race. As far as racing's concerned, though, I've heard that tubs would represent a better upgrade than discs at the moment.

The other factor is that cantis are still quite a bit lighter than discs (especially when you factor in the heavier forks required for discs). Although the stopping power of cantis is pretty ordinary, you wouldn't be using your brakes that much in a race anyway, and the weight is with you all the time...

I don't do any CX racing but I see all the top guys bikes that are on here with discs and all the CX bikes reviewed seem to have comments about whether or not they are disc braked (with discs clearly indicated as an advantaged). How much lighter ARE cantis than discs. My own measurements on disc versus side actuated road brakes suggested it was a few 10's of grams and that tyre and innertube choice would make a more significant difference from a weight perspective.

Clearly, pootling about the park you're not worried either way.

From memory, I think it's something like 400g extra for discs (plus whatever additional weight in the fork). Not huge, but when you're shouldering your bike up a steep bank every little helps. There's an expectation that this'll come down (at a price) with the new SRAM hydraulic brakes, but from what I can see in the London area the vast majority of the top guys are still using cantis at the moment.

Other factors:
Whatever anyone says, BB7s are a pain to set up. There again, so are Frog Legs.
Discs win hands-down when it comes to clogging.
Discs provide better, more predictable braking; I don't think this is actually that important on a typical cross course, but could be a bigger factor for something like 3 Peaks.
Could possibly get a bit of the weight back by using disc-specific rims, but there aren't that many disc-specific cross rims around yet, and we're probably looking at a few 10s of grams saving.

I ended up going for discs on my crosser, and would do the same again, but for a race bike it's not a clear-cut decision...

meanredspider

Just had a quick trawl round. Seems like it's a wash on the forks - any extra weight for disc brakes seems to be offset by the pivots on cantis plus any additional stiffness you need to build into the fork for the canti loadings.

As for the brakes themselves, "shorty" cantis (the only weights I came across) are about 150g lighter than BB7s (300g in total) - though, as you rightly point out, disc specific rims (especially when they are carbon) can be lighter to offset this difference.

Why do you struggle with BB7s? Setting them up and adjusting them is so simple with the right procedure. It's 5 mins max with 1 Allen key and a T25 screwdriver.

tgotb

meanredspider wrote:

Why do you struggle with BB7s? Setting them up and adjusting them is so simple with the right procedure. It's 5 mins max with 1 Allen key and a T25 screwdriver.

The issue I normally have with the BB7s is the n-dimensional adjustment that allows them to be fitted to wonky brackets. The basic technique is to clamp the brake lever tight and then do up the securing bolts; in theory this lines the calipers up perfectly with the rotors, but in practice this would require the rotors to be mega-stiff, whch they're not. Even if you do the two bolts up super-carefully in small increments, the torque inevitably rotates the entire caliper clockwise so that the pads aren't parallel to the rotor. You then have to back the pads off a bit further to compensate.

The yet-to-be-released SRAM Red calipers apparently lack this feature, which sounds like an improvement (assuming the lugs on your frame are straight).

I also have huge difficulties getting the pads in and out, but I suspect this is operator error rather than a design issue...

meanredspider

When you say "clamp the brake lever tight" do you mean that? The technique I use is to release the brake lever and wind each pad in on their adjusters to achieve the 2/3rds 1/3rd alignment. Then, as you say, tweak in both securing bolts. Back off each pad a few clicks to achieve free rotation (if it takes more, repeat the clamping step but rarely happens), then reattach the cable, taking up the backlash in the lever as you do it.

To adjust in service, I wind in the inner pad (using the T25 screwdriver) until I hear a slight whisper of contact on rotation. Repeat on the outer pad with the wheel spinning. Voila! I think I done 3000 miles this year on the Volagi and the brakes have been amazing.

ETA - the securing clips on the BB7s are very stiff though I've found finesse rather than brute force is the best approach

cjcp

meanredspider wrote:

I don't do any CX racing but I see all the top guys bikes that are on here with discs

Sadly, I'm not in that category

If I did a lot more racing, I'd invest in them, but it's not worth it just for park rides and the odd race.

jimmypippa

Moment of inertia might be an issue with racing. You need force to spin the mass as well as accelerate it linearly. In a race it might make a difference, although a few grams off the rim are worth more than a few off the centre.

Mind you, for me it isn't an issue as I'm not going to race, just want something comfortable to get fairly quickly to tracks in the Peak District on and as a foul weather commuter.

fret

And what joy it was to cycle to work once again after the Christmas break.

fret

For some reason my average speed has increased by 1mph after the 10 day lay-off, despite being fatter.
I can only put it down to the more efficient close ratio Ultegra 12-25 cassette I now have fitted. Certainly the closer ratios mean far smaller steps than the OEM SRAM, which is now on my off-road wheelset.
I may even swap it over for the 11-25 from the roadbike as that has a proper man-sized set of chainrings on it.

meanredspider

Often the case after you've rested for 7-10 days (much more is counterproductive)

mudcovered

fret wrote:

Guess what? Yup, another puncture. This time 100% caused by the rim tape moving as the hole was about 20mm from the valve....................where a spoke is. You can see the edges of the rim-tape pushing into the spoke holes. I shall be fitting my spare rim tape today (in the warm) and taking the offending article, plus the tube, back to Helfrauds to get a replacement under the Sale of Goods Act as not fit for purpose. I run 100 psi on road tyres designed for 140psi, so it must be the poor rim tape.

It could actually be the tyre having a slightly dodgy bead and not seating properly on the rim. I had this issue with a tyre on my Kona Jake. When the rim heated up due to heavy braking (canti rim brakes) the tyre would shift on the rim shifting the inner tube and rim tape. Was really annoying as it tended to cause the valve stem to tear away from the rest of the tube meaning a tube replacement was the ony way to fix the puncture. Haven't had this happen again since I replaced the offending tyre.

Mike

meanredspider

mudcovered wrote:

fret wrote:

Guess what? Yup, another puncture. This time 100% caused by the rim tape moving as the hole was about 20mm from the valve....................where a spoke is. You can see the edges of the rim-tape pushing into the spoke holes. I shall be fitting my spare rim tape today (in the warm) and taking the offending article, plus the tube, back to Helfrauds to get a replacement under the Sale of Goods Act as not fit for purpose. I run 100 psi on road tyres designed for 140psi, so it must be the poor rim tape.

It could actually be the tyre having a slightly dodgy bead and not seating properly on the rim. I had this issue with a tyre on my Kona Jake. When the rim heated up due to heavy braking (canti rim brakes) the tyre would shift on the rim shifting the inner tube and rim tape. Was really annoying as it tended to cause the valve stem to tear away from the rest of the tube meaning a tube replacement was the ony way to fix the puncture. Haven't had this happen again since I replaced the offending tyre.

Mike

I'd be 99% certain it's the rim tape - had exactly the same issue with mine. It shifts sideways exposing the spoke holes. The best my local shambles wanted to do was knock 50p off the price of some new rim tape. I don't think I've ever been back.

fret

I've never had another puncture since, just the 2 in the first week of owning the bike.
I think the fault lies more with the wheels as even the better quality rim tape I have fitted seems to move when the tyres are inflated.
No more punctures, thank God, but I'm not 100% certain it won't happen again. :roll:

meanredspider

Use the cloth stuff - Velox. I had no issues at all after I used that

fret

I shall try that. Or even cloth gaffer tape
Insulation tape can always be used to secure it anyway.

essex-commuter

Velox is the bolox. I use it on all my wheels.

Tim_Banker

My chain got stuck in the rear mech on my ride home from work on Sunday morning. Consequently my rear mech wrapped itself around the cassette.

Which SRAM rear mech do I need to replace it with? According to the Boardman bikes website it came with an Apex mech but when I've checked on Evans and Chain Reaction the Apex is only suitable for a cassette up to 32T?? Is there another Apex mech out there somewhere that is made just for Boardmans?

bails87

The standard cassette is 32t....

cookdn

Tim_Banker wrote:

My chain got stuck in the rear mech on my ride home from work on Sunday morning. Consequently my rear mech wrapped itself around the cassette.

Which SRAM rear mech do I need to replace it with? According to the Boardman bikes website it came with an Apex mech but when I've checked on Evans and Chain Reaction the Apex is only suitable for a cassette up to 32T?? Is there another Apex mech out there somewhere that is made just for Boardmans?

You want the medium cage option (CRC, Wiggle & Ribble). Ribble are the cheapest @ £37.56.

Best regards

tincaman

Looking as this wheelset as recommended earlier.http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=496

Are these for clinchers? Would a 28mm tyre fit?

Which options do I choose, is this correct?

Adaptor included - QR adaptor
Adaptor inlcuded -Rear - QR adaptor
Options - Crest (because lighter)

And what is the difference between EVO switch hubs and EVO switch Stealth hubs?

Cheers

arthur_scrimshaw

tincaman wrote:

Looking as this wheelset as recommended earlier.http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=496

Are these for clinchers? Would a 28mm tyre fit?

Which options do I choose, is this correct?

Adaptor included - QR adaptor
Adaptor inlcuded -Rear - QR adaptor
Options - Crest (because lighter)

And what is the difference between EVO switch hubs and EVO switch Stealth hubs?

Cheers

I've got these on my mtb in 26er format, don't think the stealth hub is offered on the 29er wheelset anyway so academic. Mine were standard switch evo and the freehub is quite noisy, maybe the stealth is silent?

yes they're clinchers, my rim width is 22mm, think this would be fine. Also the rims can run tubeless, I've done this and works great.

tincaman

Just found out, Steath is just more discrete graphics on the hub

tincaman

Hmmm, white Crest rims only available in 29er, wonder what that would look like

Tim_Banker

bails87 wrote:

The standard cassette is 32t....

D'oh was looking at the spec for the small chain ring :oops:

thanks