Crud Roadracer Mk2 Mud Guards.

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Comments

  • dav1d1
    dav1d1 Posts: 653
    Which mud guard do people have on at the back I have the second shortest one, the one with crud on because the longer version just didn't fit even with watching YouTube videos was bent and didn't fit right
  • rickeverett
    rickeverett Posts: 988
    Dav1d1 wrote:
    Which mud guard do people have on at the back I have the second shortest one, the one with crud on because the longer version just didn't fit even with watching YouTube videos was bent and didn't fit right


    yeah I have (or had, see below) the short tail. The long one didn't fit right and caused the back to wobble more into the tyres.


    I have removed guards of my bike now - totally sick of the damage they have caused. Although I used guards and protective pads they have removed paint and metal from under my front calliper, caused scuffing around the frame with the ties and have contributed to excessive brake and rim ware.

    The latter was because mud (on very muddy lanes) gathered and creamed out of the guards onto the callipers. The collection of mud then acts like sand paper on the pads and rims. Since removing the guards the rims have been dry and cleaner. Not only that have have no annoying rubbing that would randomly crop up on rides and clatter.
  • bill_gates
    bill_gates Posts: 469
    I don't remember it being so bad last year but I've only had a few rides this winter season with my Crud Roadracer Mk2's on my Orbea Orca.

    Although my backside is dry and I'm not covered in grime on my body or legs. The fact that I have an aero seat-tube and can't use the larger section of the Cruds Mk2's my chain stays, front mech, feet and shoes are getting all the road grime directed down to them from the back wheel.

    I'm now weighing up whether I would do either of the following:

    • Put up with it and wear my shoe covers more often then hose down the bike when I come home
    • Keep the front Crud on and maybe use an Ass Saver on the rear
    • Just don't bother with any guards apart from maybe an Ass Saver

    Any thoughts?

    "I like riding in my car, it's not quite a Jaguar."
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    How long should I expect these to last?

    Only, I bought a pair at the beginning of Oct, fitted them and have been really happy with them...until this weekend when the front guard snapped at the cable tie fixing point and I discovered a big crack/split in the rear guard.

    No crashes and been careful with them, surely they should last longer than 3 months and a thousand miles?!
  • northpole
    northpole Posts: 1,499
    Bill Gates wrote:
    I don't remember it being so bad last year but I've only had a few rides this winter season with my Crud Roadracer Mk2's on my Orbea Orca.

    Although my backside is dry and I'm not covered in grime on my body or legs. The fact that I have an aero seat-tube and can't use the larger section of the Cruds Mk2's my chain stays, front mech, feet and shoes are getting all the road grime directed down to them from the back wheel.

    I'm now weighing up whether I would do either of the following:

    • Put up with it and wear my shoe covers more often then hose down the bike when I come home
    • Keep the front Crud on and maybe use an Ass Saver on the rear
    • Just don't bother with any guards apart from maybe an Ass Saver

    Any thoughts?

    I'd chuck the Cruds and replace them with one of the SKS guards - either Race Blades or, if you feel you need more protection, there is an xl version. I found the SKS to have much better fixings which I've not had to adjust; the opposite with the Cruds.

    Peter
  • northpole
    northpole Posts: 1,499
    Dinyull wrote:
    How long should I expect these to last?

    Only, I bought a pair at the beginning of Oct, fitted them and have been really happy with them...until this weekend when the front guard snapped at the cable tie fixing point and I discovered a big crack/split in the rear guard.

    No crashes and been careful with them, surely they should last longer than 3 months and a thousand miles?!

    Whilst I'm no fan of Cruds, they can last well - very dependent upon how well you fix them on in the first place. They also tend to need regular checking to make sure the connection screws haven't loosened - I have lost bits that way in the past. If you are happy enough with them, my understanding is that the company provide very good customer support so it may be worth you calling them and see what they have to offer in terms of free replacement parts.

    Peter
  • dinyull
    dinyull Posts: 2,979
    Cheers for that, I hadn't even considered checking their website. Just been on and ordered a replacement blade, which for £6.50 I can't grumble at.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Bill Gates wrote:
    I don't remember it being so bad last year but I've only had a few rides this winter season with my Crud Roadracer Mk2's on my Orbea Orca.

    Although my backside is dry and I'm not covered in grime on my body or legs. The fact that I have an aero seat-tube and can't use the larger section of the Cruds Mk2's my chain stays, front mech, feet and shoes are getting all the road grime directed down to them from the back wheel.

    I'm now weighing up whether I would do either of the following:

    • Put up with it and wear my shoe covers more often then hose down the bike when I come home
    • Keep the front Crud on and maybe use an Ass Saver on the rear
    • Just don't bother with any guards apart from maybe an Ass Saver

    Any thoughts?

    What stops the crud from fitting? You can hack them about to your hearts content so I'd get a knife out and view any fitting problems as a challenge!

    You could convert them back into Mk1s by simply using a front nose piece on the rear. You'd still get far more protection than an Ass Saver - you just end up with a less clean front mech.
    rickeverett wrote:
    I have removed guards of my bike now - totally sick of the damage they have caused. Although I used guards and protective pads they have removed paint and metal from under my front calliper, caused scuffing around the frame with the ties and have contributed to excessive brake and rim ware. The latter was because mud (on very muddy lanes) gathered and creamed out of the guards onto the callipers. The collection of mud then acts like sand paper on the pads and rims. Since removing the guards the rims have been dry and cleaner. Not only that have have no annoying rubbing that would randomly crop up on rides and clatter.

    They do remove metal from under the front caliper unless you put something sticky on to protect it - but you can't see that damage so perhaps it doesn't matter; there might not be enough space for something sticky there anyway. One solution is not to bother with the nose piece at all but that does result in dirtier calipers. The tie damage is self inflicted. That's what helicopter tape is for. You can't really expect any O-ring fitted item not to shift and result in marked paint without something to protect it.
    Certain conditions of road dirt can cause a build up on the inside of the mudguards. I can't believe that it causes more rim wear than no mudguards (you'll get stacks of rim and pad wear on days like that whatever your mudguard arrangement) but it is irritating - because clearances are so tight, the dirt can clog everything up. Only seems to happen about once a year but could be more frequent or not at all depending on where you live.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • bill_gates
    bill_gates Posts: 469
    Rolf F wrote:
    You could convert them back into Mk1s by simply using a front nose piece on the rear. You'd still get far more protection than an Ass Saver - you just end up with a less clean front mech.

    That is the way I have them currently with the short nose piece. It's this that is directing all the grime onto my mech, lower leg and shoes.

    "I like riding in my car, it's not quite a Jaguar."
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Ahh right. What about without the nose piece at all?

    I'd still be forcing a fit with the big nose piece - there has to be a way!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • bill_gates
    bill_gates Posts: 469
    f3tmic.png

    My seat tube is shaped hence why the larger nose piece is out, there is very little clearance there at all. I might try without a piece at all, that could be a good suggestion.

    "I like riding in my car, it's not quite a Jaguar."
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    I thought it would look like this. What I was thinking you could slot the nose piece where the clearance is tightest. It might want a narrow strip of eg bar tape material along the back edge of the seat tube to protect it and stop any rattle noise but I reckon there is a solution somewhere! Is there any more clearance by the BB?

    (How long before you get told off for even trying to put mudguards on that!! :lol: )
    Faster than a tent.......
  • alex222
    alex222 Posts: 598
    Rolf F wrote:
    (How long before you get told off for even trying to put mudguards on that!! :lol: )
    Was thinking the exact same thing
  • mugensi
    mugensi Posts: 559
    I fitted mine in August and have been more than pleased with them. Its such a pleasure to be able to cycle on wet roads and have my ass/feet and clothes remain dry. I do get rubbing sometimes but its more when muck gathers and cakes on the underside of the guard and the tyres rub off it, its a small trade off for remaining dry. I havent had any problems with them and i check the screws regularly to ensure theyre tight. If i were to get this winter out of them and they were to suddenly disentegrate I'd have no hesitation buying another set for next winter.

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