Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

asprilla

Attempted to build a rear wheel tonight.

Like an egg shape Dorito is good, right?

veronese68

Asprilla wrote:

Attempted to build a rear wheel tonight.

Like an egg shape Dorito is good, right?

Well it's obviously better than anything I've managed. So, well done.

SimonAH

Built this lil' beastie;



Had the frame knocking around (off true rear triangle, straightened gently with heat and a two-by-four. Bought a donor BSO fitted with Shimano bits from the tip for £3:60 and a seatpost shim from Halfords for another £3:50 (begrudged).

The rest, BB, pedals, bars, wheels, tyres, pads etc from the parts bin.

Comes in at a hair under 9Kg and rides beautifully.

Given as a present to a colleague (nominal bottle of scotch charge) and another guy on the road, another car used a bit less. I feel pretty good about this.

Edit: that rear brake cable looks taut in the photo! Optical illusion I promise!

veronese68

Well done Simon, the joy of resurrecting a frankenbike. I've nearly finished the (not so) little ones new bike.

Apologies for the messy picture, dinner was calling.
He's done a lot of work himself. I just need to put cables and a chain on it before I give it a test ride. He's named it Count Bikeula as he already has his Frankenbike.

bails87

Asprilla wrote:

Attempted to build a rear wheel tonight.

Like an egg shape Dorito is good, right?

I found it surprisingly easy :oops:

I followed Roger Mussons Wheelpro ebook, including building the stand, and it seems to have worked. It was at least 6 months ago and I haven't had to touch them since.

In other fettling news, I swapped my Boardman stem and ITM bars for Deda Zero/Newton ones. supposedly in the same colour but the stem is a bit bronzy whereas the bars are actually a pretty good match to the grey of the frame. New bar tape too, obviously.

I removed the cross brake levers so had to replace the brake cables.

All working perfectly this morning. The loss of the flex around the cross levers seems to have sharpened up the brakes too.

asprilla

I'm using Roger's book but I must be doing something wrong. Going to dismantle them both at the weekend and start again. It's all good practice.

UndercoverElephant

Asprilla wrote:

I'm using Roger's book but I must be doing something wrong. Going to dismantle them both at the weekend and start again. It's all good practice.

Indeed. The Musson book is excellent, really clear and well written. Just make sure that you make small changes all the way round the wheel and feather in any truing. What are you using for the build? You haven't skipped beginner level and gone straight to the super-lightweight advanced, have you?

asprilla

Hubs are Shimano 105 with 32 hole Kinlin AdHd rims they are going to be for a hack bike or spares for the commuter.

I think I'm just reaching the whole process.

rubertoe

Crudracers went back on last night (thanks Redvee). Magnet for the computer came of about halfway through my commute (knocking was doing my head in)

So will be remounting the sensor and the pick up mount later and adjusting the gears which are a bit jumpy

SimonAH

rubertoe wrote:

Crudracers went back on last night (thanks Redvee). Magnet for the computer came of about halfway through my commute (knocking was doing my head in)

So will be remounting the sensor and the pick up mount later and adjusting the gears which are a bit jumpy

Fettling tip for spoke magnets - once they are in place and the little wheel tightened up apply a small blob of superglue top and bottom where the clamp goes round the spoke.

Problem gone.

keyser__soze

Fun evening of maintenance....

The missus's wheels seem to have slightly different spacings hence the rear derailleur requires re-indexing every time she changes between her RS80s and her Zipps. Add to this new cables stretching and her RD didn't work at all today, skipping all over the place. Stripped the cassettes off, played with swapping cassettes over (one's Shim, t'other SRAM) and removing the 10spd Shimano spacer from the Shim cassette, loosened and re-tightened derailleur, re-indexed. Tested out on the turbo and seems better with the same setting working across both wheels. Probably ended up with neither wheelset working properly when she takes it out on the road tho...

Honking noise again on my good bike, which was loose BB cups last time. Removed crank to check. BB cups seemed pretty tight but removed them, put more threadlock on and tightened them up again. Hopefully this should sort it.

veronese68

Finished building my son's road bike. Fitted chain and cables and then just fiddled about with everything. Rode it round the block and it's really rather nice. He's over the moon.
Hang on, this needs to go in the old frankenbike thread.

bails87

bails87 wrote:

I swapped my Boardman stem and ITM bars for Deda Zero/Newton ones. supposedly in the same colour but the stem is a bit bronzy whereas the bars are actually a pretty good match to the grey of the frame. New bar tape too, obviously.

I had to change the brake lever positions. One was a couple of millimetres lower than the other (surprisingly noticable when riding), and the bars had to be rotated 'back'/'up' by quite a bit, but I've got the position right now. I think.

I also redid the bar tape, and now I'm concerned that I've made it too short..... :oops:

rubertoe

Lubed the very dry chain; fettled with the rear deraileur and fashioned a new damper for my crud racers as one of them has disapeared and it was rubbing on the rim/tyre.

Running so much quieter this morning.

edhornby

I'm having a nightmare with loose nuts on the rear hub of my fixed gear, I readjust and they work loose after one ride... anyone done a proper service on a novatec (one of the sealed jobbies) fixed hub? is it worth giving it to the LBS to put fresh bearings in or can you dismantle clean rebuild at home ?

cheers

bails87

You probably just push the old bearings out and push some new ones in, if they're anything like the (apparently rebadged Novatec) hubs on my MTB.

redvee

Treated the front wheel to new bearings and grease and got rid of the 3mm play in the cones which explains why the tyre was rubbing on the guard for a few days.

asprilla

Fresh grip tape and a general fettle ready for tomorrow's Legs of Steel.

Unfortunately two hours of coughing between 23.00 and 01.00 means I couldn't test ride this morning and I doubt I'll be riding at the weekend.

jonomc4

just changed my sirrus elite into drop handle bars from a t-bar to make it a better winter bike - only issue was not knowing I had to change the v brakes to mini v's - once that was done all is hunky doory!

pangolin

Really dodgy creaking from front end on the way home, steering too stiff too, so took the forks off and cleaned and greased everything before reassembling.

Seemed to sort the creaks. But for a while now I have been unable to get the headset tightened correctly. It goes from too loose (forks rock back and forth) to too tight (actual resistance to steering) with nothing in between.

Took it to LBS a while ago and they serviced a bunch of other stuff but told me headset was actually fine.

Any suggestions? I thought maybe it was missing a bit! Don't know much about headsets though.

Mark Elvin

Trying to sort the creak on the LH crank arm out......

itboffin

Just cleaned both commuters dry & wet, swapped over the front mech for a band on and adjusted shifting.

However whilst swapping out mech I found loads of never going to be used parts which once the photos finish uploading will be going on the classified section.

Sharkyssurfers

wash and blow dried the bike at the weekend, also fitted the crud racers only took me an hour!, but it looks good now, just noticed there is a lot of play in the headset i.e. if I put the front brake on the bars and forks can still move backwards and forwards by quite a bit, hopefully it will last until I can afford new bearings etc..

mudcow007

replaced the stupid rubber straps on my sks race blades with jubilee clips on my rear wheel guard.

now no more squeeks an creaks

god knows how i will do the same for the front (carbon) forks

davis

Sharkyssurfers wrote:

wash and blow dried the bike at the weekend, also fitted the crud racers only took me an hour!, but it looks good now, just noticed there is a lot of play in the headset i.e. if I put the front brake on the bars and forks can still move backwards and forwards by quite a bit, hopefully it will last until I can afford new bearings etc..

You have tried simply tightening the headset, right?

Sharkyssurfers

oh yes its tight all right

flimflam_machine

Built up a new back wheel to replace the old one that I bent by over-inflating an inner tube and blowing the tyre off the side of the rim. First run in on the new wheel today, seems to work pretty nicely!

jonginge

Finally got around to spending the 15minutes it took to replace the headset on my planet-x. Also replaced some cleats.

Must also replace the front tyre and inflate the tyres a bit. These jobs never stop, eh?

veronese68

I seem to spend as much time fixing other peoples bikes as I do my own. I can't help myself, I went for a ride with some friends and wound up fixing their bikes before we went out. Is there some sort of help group I can sign up to?
On our bikes I changed the tyres on the EPO's station hack after blowing one off the rim and did the final fettling of the boy's new bike.
Fitting new wheels to mine today. Yippee.

Sharkyssurfers

davis wrote:

Sharkyssurfers wrote:

wash and blow dried the bike at the weekend, also fitted the crud racers only took me an hour!, but it looks good now, just noticed there is a lot of play in the headset i.e. if I put the front brake on the bars and forks can still move backwards and forwards by quite a bit, hopefully it will last until I can afford new bearings etc..

You have tried simply tightening the headset, right?

err you know when I said tighter that tight thing, errrrrmmm, just had a fettle, it helps if you don't tighten the stem first :oops: retighten headset and then stem and guess what no play