Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

essex-commuter

redvee wrote:

but a pair of jussies sorted it out.

What are jussies?

redvee

essex-commuter wrote:

redvee wrote:

but a pair of jussies sorted it out.

What are jussies?

One of these

As in adjustable wrench

Aidy

Switched levers, bars, bartape and forks.

Fun times.

asprilla

Doh, wrong thread.

tailwindhome

Gave bike a wash
Squirt of WD40 on the squeaky brake calipers
Fitted new Koolstop pads to front brake

But the piece de resistance was the sorting out of the rattling bottle cage which was making the bike sound like a "bag of bottles". Removed cage, found the threaded frame insert* to be slightly loose, bit of super glue around it, Bob's your Uncle.





* this bit is bound to have a name. I'm betting WG Whartburton would know it!

redvee

Fitted the Lidl spoke reflectors to the Tricross and caught the effect on video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGjLZSFmJt8

suzyb

redvee wrote:

Fitted the Lidl spoke reflectors to the Tricross and caught the effect on video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGjLZSFmJt8

hmmm I can just imagine how that could freak out the motorists around here who aren't used to bicycles being on the road at night.

I want some.

greg66_tri_v2.0

Unless "fettling" is now spelled "f-u-c-k-I-n-g u-p", I have nothing to add to this thread at this time. :oops:

EKE_38BPM

Flipped & chopped the handle-bars and attached the pedals to the cranks on my fixie project (which I've just renamed the Banana Beater).

rjsterry

I'll be on the Dahon for a few days due to the busted rear wheel on the Giant, so swapped my battered old SPDs onto the Dahon (new M520s still en route from Planet X). Bought a proper pedal spanner, and with that and a bit more MTFU than my first attempt got both pairs of pedals off. Took the Dahon for a quick test ride round the village, and the SPDs make a massive difference to pedaling confidence - can really spin up now, so might try and catch a few roadies out on the Embankment on Tuesday :twisted:

Canny Jock

TailWindHome wrote:

Gave bike a wash
Squirt of WD40 on the squeaky brake calipers
Fitted new Koolstop pads to front brake

But the piece de resistance was the sorting out of the rattling bottle cage which was making the bike sound like a "bag of bottles". Removed cage, found the threaded frame insert* to be slightly loose, bit of super glue around it, Bob's your Uncle.





* this bit is bound to have a name. I'm betting WG Whartburton would know it!

Rivnut?

NGale

fitting and then re-fitting of pannier rack for me, for Jake fixing a new wheel to his commuter, a bottom bracket on his training road bike and general serivice of his Madone and Focus MTB

Canny Jock

Wrapped handlebars, only the second time I've done it - and yet again did both sides the same way instead of opposing :oops: Really annoyed as it's the posh bike and I spent ages making sure I got it right :evil:

PBo

EKE_38BPM wrote:

Flipped & chopped the handle-bars and attached the pedals to the cranks on my fixie project (which I've just renamed the Banana Beater).

are you sure that's a good name, that could in no way be misconstrued by your colleagues? :shock:

My own f-u-c-k-i-n-g u-p consists of a total FAIL to get the front QR skewer off, .....(nice shout Greg66 - maybe we need to start a parallel thread???)

PBo

bicyclepirate wrote:

I actually couldn't belive this, some one had managed to ride this hunk of rust to Nottingham Station. Not to worry though i'll be taking my chain oil with me all week and if i see it again i'll start to sort it out.

Actually, once the chain gets this rusty, the small fine particles of Fe2O3 slew off and act as a highly efficient dry lube.

The bike becomes self lubricating, until basically, so much wears away, your groupset dissolves in a downpour....

Zachariah

After my first clipless moment, where I slammed down on the left side, I felt there was something off but couldn't tell what it was. The brakes seemed all right, cranks and the rest of the drivetrain OK. Wheels still true.

I was left with nagging doubts, especially when the bike appeared to be off balance on fast descents. I worried some internal frame thing was out of whack. More checks. Everything looked normal.

Then part way through a club run, I looked at the handlebars where they meet the stem. There was something strange about the maker's marks on either side.

The handlebars had been knocked a centimetre to the right! How this had happened when the stem bolts seemed pretty tight and there was no visible damage to the bars, I don't know. Just goes to show what a carefully-balanced machine a bike is.

An easy fix, too.

redvee

Downgraded the firmware on my Edge 705 from 3.2 to 3.2. Since upgrading to 3.2 I've had the autopause kick in at 17mph most rides and last week there have been issues with uploading the ride daya to Garmin Connect, so far the upload has been OK with none of last weeks hassles.
There is a known issue with the 3.2 firmware and has been dropped by Garmin.

Levi_501

The commuter bike has covered circa 2,000 miles since it has be built, therefore have been doing a few 'in depth' jobs including;

Stripped, cleaned, re-greesed and refitted the head set.
Full clean of the drive chain
Readjustment of the cables
Face the pads
De-glaze and take out the high spots on the disks.
Check everything for tightness

Also moved the mud guards closer to the wheels and fitted a second front light.

Thinking to strip the pedals down and re-greesing them, but cannot find a Shimano spanner in a local shop yet. Can only find them on line.

jonginge

So I went to fettle my newly installed gears. I put the bike on the stand and tapped and double-tapped up and down the cluster. Perfect. No fettling required :shock: :shock: :shock:

We'll see what happens out on the road





I did need to adjust the front mech limits and cable tension, though. The world has not gone totally kerazy.

itboffin

I have a problem a big problem!

So I just got the bike back after having the steerer cut only to find a several mm gap on the headset top cap to the head tube, I wandered back into the LBS to ask WTF

Dude looks at me and says mmmm yeh that's normal :shock: :evil:

Now i'm no bike mech but really a campagnolo record headset that doesn't sit flush, thats not right, right?

rjsterry

One of these?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Campagnolo_Record_Threadless_1_1~8_Inch_Headset/5360007772/?referid=frogoog&source=googleps

Are you saying that you can see a bit of the 'neck' of the top bearing between where it flares out and the top rim of the head tube? I.e. the top bearing hasn't been pushed far enough into the top tube.

Or is it an integrated bearing? Or a head tube designed for an integrated bearing?

Right, it's a frame designed for an integrated headset. Err I don't think that is normal. Sounds like they need to push the headset in a bit more, unless it has a longer 'neck' than the top tube allows for. I think you need to return to the LBS, 'cause that don't sound right.

EDIT: I would add that I'm still in 1" threaded-land, so the above could be rubbish.

Ah. It is rubbish.

gtvlusso

itboffin wrote:

I have a problem a big problem!

So I just got the bike back after having the steerer cut only to find a several mm gap on the headset top cap to the head tube, I wandered back into the LBS to ask WTF

Dude looks at me and says mmmm yeh that's normal :shock: :evil:

Now i'm no bike mech but really a campagnolo record headset that doesn't sit flush, thats not right, right?

Right - hammer and bit of wood should solve!

biondino

I believe it's normal, ITB.

biondino

I mean think of it this way. Unless you cut the steerer with the spacers on, thereby using the top spacer as a guide, you're either going to have a gap between the cap and the top spacer (which obviously isn't how it works) or a spacer that sits partiall around and partially above the steerer.

The top cap doesn't hold the whole caboodle together, you know! Indeed it's not supposed to be tight - as I discovered when I over-tightened mine and sheared the bolt.

jonginge

itboffin wrote:

I have a problem a big problem!

So I just got the bike back after having the steerer cut only to find a several mm gap on the headset top cap to the head tube, I wandered back into the LBS to ask WTF

Dude looks at me and says mmmm yeh that's normal :shock: :evil:

Now i'm no bike mech but really a campagnolo record headset that doesn't sit flush, thats not right, right?

You mean above the stem and the topcap screwing into the bung? If it's a carbon steerer you need a couple of mm spacer above the stem to make sure you don't crush the steerer with the top edge of stem. Just had the same with my cervelo

jonginge

biondino wrote:

I mean think of it this way. Unless you cut the steerer with the spacers on, thereby using the top spacer as a guide, you're either going to have a gap between the cap and the top spacer (which obviously isn't how it works) or a spacer that sits partiall around and partially above the steerer.

The top cap doesn't hold the whole caboodle together, you know! Indeed it's not supposed to be tight - as I discovered when I over-tightened mine and sheared the bolt.

Yeah, just tight enough to remove play in the headset. Only adjust when the stem bolts are fully slackened off

itboffin

See the gap



This is now smaller after I applied some MTFU to the bung but there's still a gap.

And before anyone points out the MASSHOOF number of spacer i know i know i'm just being careful, don't want to cut the steerer to short before i get things set up just right.

rjsterry

Maybe I was on the right track. It does look like it isn't quite seated properly, but as I say, I know diddly about threadless headsets.

stuman69er

just re-trued my wheels and adjusted brakes.

cleaned and greased drive train.

now there is only one problem left.

I have a squeaky crank on the left hand side. i don't have a crank tool. any ideas how to get rid of it?

biondino

Angle grinder? Or is that not what you meant?