Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin

Do i switch my R5 back to complete Camapg groupset by replacing the Rotor 3D crankset I have on there now ?????

torn between looks and weightweenieness

whatleytom

Go for looks, I'm on an R5 now. Just added these new wheels, roll nicely.

keef66

itboffin wrote:

Do i switch my R5 back to complete Camapg groupset by replacing the Rotor 3D crankset I have on there now ?????

torn between looks and weightweenieness

Looks every time.

keef66

Faffing with the winter bike. Took off the rear guard to make it easier to use the hanger alignment tool. Tweaked it a tiny bit, and used the opportunity to clean the wheel / frame / chain / cassette / rear mech. Spot of lube and all back together. So pleased with the silent running I took it out in preference to the summer bike at the next opportunity.

Scrutinising the rims on the 10 year old RS10s on the summer bike. I'm willing them to die so I can justify some nice new wider tubeless handbuilts, but now they rarely go out in the wet and as I hardly ever brake they seem destined to go on for ever. All the wear indicators are still visible and my dental calipers tell me the brake tracks are all >1.4mm thick

Think I might treat it to new bartape and cables as consolation. Against all advice, some of it mine, I'm going for white this time.

UndercoverElephant

Swapped the cartridge bearings in the rear wheel of the Pinnacle with some nice new ones. A five minute job, turned into an epic after I managed to lose the spacer which stops the cassette from being over tightened. Finally, two days later, found it pressed into the lawn near where I was working.

Super smooth now, though.

redvee

New disc pads on Monty the commute bike which I've only ridden for around 200 miles but the callipers were on the bike I broke so have had plenty of use and were TRP factory fitted, now have Nukeproof semi-metallic pads all round.

azzurri78

Finally got round to fitting the two Hunt wheelsets for my Datum. Fettling once the kids are in bed I fitted hutchinson sector tubeless tyres to the 4season wheelset on Friday evening. Seemed to go ok and only a bit of air loss on one of them overnight. Fitted Gravelking SK to the hunt gravel wheelset but didn’t set them up tubeless. All good.

Part 2 last night and swapped over the rotors from old wheelsets. Hunts are centrelock so using 6bolt adaptors and knew about fork clearance issues so using slim lockrings at the front. But the lockrings on both wheelsets still rub on the fork and don’t spin freely.

Bit of a puzzler as I’m not sure where I went wrong. Can only think it might be the adaptor fitted to change from qr to 15mm thruaxle but a bit stumped tbh. Esp as one of the wheelsets had the axle adaptor fitted at source by Hunt.

My head says it will not make any difference because the rotor has to be in the same place but is it likely using centrelock rotors will be better on clearance? Don’t want to buy new ones but it might come down to that or taking the wheels to a bike shop!

itboffin

redvee wrote:

New disc pads on Monty the commute bike which I've only ridden for around 200 miles but the callipers were on the bike I broke so have had plenty of use and were TRP factory fitted, now have Nukeproof semi-metallic pads all round.

which ones did you get to replace the TRP?

Tashman

Picked up a BTWin Rockrider 340 for Tashboy for the bargain price of £20. Needs 1 tyre but fettled the rear mech so it's all good. Just need to work on the front mech and baggy brakes.

redvee

Realised too late that I should have staggered the swap so that I had one 'working' brake while the beds bedded in but fond out after the first 1/4 mile my fears were for nothing and the brakes stopped me as expected.

itboffin wrote:

which ones did you get to replace the TRP?

redvee wrote:

Nukeproof semi-metallic pads all round.

N0bodyOfTheGoat

G-One Speeds swapped out for 29x2.3" BSC Type 1 front and 26x4" Jumbo Jim rear.

Spent far longer picking out small stones and gravel from that silly honeycomb central tread of the rebadged Speedster, than rest of fettle... Although no doubt there will be a fresh batch of shards in there after tomorrow!

Quite possibly the closest I've come to seriously thinking about trying ghetto tubeless, after fairy visits on consecutive commutes home, one front one rear, both on G-,One Speeds.

itboffin

redvee wrote:

Realised too late that I should have staggered the swap so that I had one 'working' brake while the beds bedded in but fond out after the first 1/4 mile my fears were for nothing and the brakes stopped me as expected.

itboffin wrote:

which ones did you get to replace the TRP?

redvee wrote:

Nukeproof semi-metallic pads all round.

duh I saw that, what part number they make a shed ton of different ones

redvee

itboffin wrote:

duh I saw that, what part number they make a shed ton of different ones

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nuke ... prod129816

itboffin

redvee wrote:

itboffin wrote:

duh I saw that, what part number they make a shed ton of different ones

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nuke ... prod129816

noted ta, mind you TRP spyre are meant to be good, i'm new to mech discs so still very nervous descending as my Campag chorus with TRP have way less stopping power than campag chorus caliper which have too much stopping power.

wolfsbane2k

Replaced bottom bracket and pedals on the roadie in a rush following a very slow ride back home with a loose pedal and constant creaking.

And got distracted while putting the crank arm back on, so ended up with the crankset at 12 and 8, couldn't work out why it didn't feel right for a few meters....
Everyone has done that, right?

keef66

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

ended up with the crankset at 12 and 8, couldn't work out why it didn't feel right for a few meters....
Everyone has done that, right?

I'd occasionally try attaching both cranks pointing in the same direction in the days of square taper BBs, but since the advent of Shimano HT2 you can only install the LH crank in the correct position.

What chainset allows you to do it at 12 & 8?

pangolin

Shimano ones let you do it at pretty much any angle you want

wolfsbane2k

keef66 wrote:

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

ended up with the crankset at 12 and 8, couldn't work out why it didn't feel right for a few meters....
Everyone has done that, right?

I'd occasionally try attaching both cranks pointing in the same direction in the days of square taper BBs, but since the advent of Shimano HT2 you can only install the LH crank in the correct position.

What chainset allows you to do it at 12 & 8?

A ProWheel HT2 chainset , that's not keyed like the Shimano one's are.

bigmat

Rebuilt my right-hand shifter and recabled. Rear mech shifting pretty well now, will need a bit of fine tuning with (also newly fitted) barrel adjuster but hoping I can get it shifting better than ever before.

itboffin

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

Replaced bottom bracket and pedals on the roadie in a rush following a very slow ride back home with a loose pedal and constant creaking.

And got distracted while putting the crank arm back on, so ended up with the crankset at 12 and 8, couldn't work out why it didn't feel right for a few meters....
Everyone has done that, right?

No way, just you

roger_merriman

replaced the front tyre on the gravel bike, and cleaned and fitted some frame protectors around the fork where the bigger GravelKings had rubbed away the paint with the rubber stick/flashings. down to 32mm in GravelKings for the front which has a bit more room.

plus fitted two bottle cages as recent very good weather down in wales had shown that if its hot I will get though one bottle with ease.

wolfsbane2k

itboffin wrote:

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

Replaced bottom bracket and pedals on the roadie in a rush following a very slow ride back home with a loose pedal and constant creaking.

And got distracted while putting the crank arm back on, so ended up with the crankset at 12 and 8, couldn't work out why it didn't feel right for a few meters....
Everyone has done that, right?

No way, just you

:oops:

elbowloh

Hang on, that's not even supposed to be possible right?

veronese68

elbowloh wrote:

Hang on, that's not even supposed to be possible right?

Some are more 'talented' at fettling than others.
Whilst I've never managed that I'm sure I've done something equally daft in the past.

keef66

Where in god's world do I find a supplier of Shimano outer cable in white for both gears and brakes ? Standard stuff, nothing fancy involving teflon or polymers. I just want to give the summer bike a bit of a spruce up.

I was initially looking for the Jagwire complete bike kit with it's plethora of ferrules and end caps, but they appear to have been discontinued. Buying separate brake and gear kits makes it quite expensive for what is mainly a cosmetic exercise, so then I thought I'd just buy new outers.

elbowloh

Veronese68 wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

Hang on, that's not even supposed to be possible right?

Some are more 'talented' at fettling than others.
Whilst I've never managed that I'm sure I've done something equally daft in the past.

I thought the grooves on the cranks only let you put them on in one position?

keef66

elbowloh wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

Hang on, that's not even supposed to be possible right?

Some are more 'talented' at fettling than others.
Whilst I've never managed that I'm sure I've done something equally daft in the past.

I thought the grooves on the cranks only let you put them on in one position?

You can install the LH crank loosely in the wrong position, but to tighten it fully and for the pin on the safety tab to drop into it's hole in the spindle the splines need to be properly lined up.

UndercoverElephant

elbowloh wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

Hang on, that's not even supposed to be possible right?

Some are more 'talented' at fettling than others.
Whilst I've never managed that I'm sure I've done something equally daft in the past.

I thought the grooves on the cranks only let you put them on in one position?

Depends on the cranks. Shimano make it hard, some others less so.

veronese68

elbowloh wrote:

I thought the grooves on the cranks only let you put them on in one position?

Depends on what bottom bracket and cranks you have.
Pesky customers bothering me, by the time I'd finished my answer two others have replied. I think Octalink can go on in any position, with square taper it's pretty obvious if you get it wrong.

wolfsbane2k

Veronese68 wrote:

elbowloh wrote:

I thought the grooves on the cranks only let you put them on in one position?

Depends on what bottom bracket and cranks you have.
Pesky customers bothering me, by the time I'd finished my answer two others have replied. I think Octalink can go on in any position, with square taper it's pretty obvious if you get it wrong.

This. An original Shimano ht2 chainset, which I've got on MTB, has a very large blocking keyway to prevent this from happening.
The prowheel one that came on the roadie does not, doesn't have the drop down safety tab either.