Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

milemuncher1

Milemuncher1 wrote:

Replaced the Avid Elixir brake pads on the MX Comp. I decided to go for O.E.M. numbers. The best part of 30 quid for the pair :shock:. There’s another good reason to not go for a disc braked road bike, IMO.

That’s right.

Veronese68 wrote:

What is it they say about a fool and his money?

I don’t know, you tell me. I had to get them there and then, or I wouldn’t have made it home, good job I had my BC discount, or they would have cost more. It was fun trying to fit them to an upside down bike, in the dark, using a bike light to see what I was doing, which kind of makes your “inept” comment look sadder than it actually was.

Veronese68 wrote:

. You don't like discs on road bikes because you are too inept to fix a puncture at the roadside on a disc braked road bike, we get that. :roll:

I’ve forgotten more about this stuff than you’ll ever know, the sooner you get your head around that fact, the less bitter and twisted you’ll seem.

hopkinb

Milemuncher1 wrote:

Milemuncher1 wrote:

Replaced the Avid Elixir brake pads on the MX Comp. I decided to go for O.E.M. numbers. The best part of 30 quid for the pair :shock:. There’s another good reason to not go for a disc braked road bike, IMO.

That’s right.

Veronese68 wrote:

What is it they say about a fool and his money?

I don’t know, you tell me. I had to get them there and then, or I wouldn’t have made it home, good job I had my BC discount, or they would have cost more. It was fun trying to fit them to an upside down bike, in the dark, using a bike light to see what I was doing, which kind of makes your “inept” comment look sadder than it actually was.

Veronese68 wrote:

. You don't like discs on road bikes because you are too inept to fix a puncture at the roadside on a disc braked road bike, we get that. :roll:

I’ve forgotten more about this stuff than you’ll ever know, the sooner you get your head around that fact, the less bitter and twisted you’ll seem.

Wtf are you doing going out on pads that you need to replace "there and then" whilst out on a ride? You forgot to check pad wear before heading out? Sounds like you are forgetting things a bit too quickly.

veronese68

Milemuncher1 wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

What is it they say about a fool and his money?

I don’t know, you tell me. I had to get them there and then, or I wouldn’t have made it home, good job I had my BC discount, or they would have cost more. It was fun trying to fit them to an upside down bike, in the dark, using a bike light to see what I was doing, which kind of makes your “inept” comment look sadder than it actually was.

Inept is entirely appropriate. If I'm doing a long mucky ride on my MTB I have spare pads with me, never needed them as I keep on top of maintenance like that. If you were using BC discount was this Halfords? £14.99 for genuine Avid pads from them, less 10% BC discount of course.

lettingthedaysgoby

Talking of disc brakes...

Noticed my front disc was making a funny noise under braking towards the end of yesterdays ride, I suddenly wasn't stopping too well and the rotor appeared to be covered in black gunk.

Managed to get home, took the pads out, essentially no braking surface left other than a layer of gritty black slime :shock:

Ooooops. New pads now fitted

Thankfully I seem to have got away without damaging the rotor - it's still true and I checked with a set of callipers and it's still the same thickness as the rear.

veronese68

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

...took the pads out, essentially no braking surface left other than a layer of gritty black slime :shock:

I would say that is the only down side of hydraulic discs, you don't notice wear as they self adjust and it's easy to let that happen. Hopefully you will only do it the once and will remember to check. Mine have never completely worn out and I do try to make a point of checking more often now.

lettingthedaysgoby

Veronese68 wrote:

I would say that is the only down side of hydraulic discs, you don't notice wear as they self adjust and it's easy to let that happen. Hopefully you will only do it the once and will remember to check. Mine have never completely worn out and I do try to make a point of checking more often now.

Yeah, definitely a lesson learned...

bikegangster

Swapped my rotors on my Giant Defy 2016. From the rotor that came with stock to LifeLine's. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/life ... prod155638 Less holes and more braking surface available. Haven't notice the differences yet. Maybe need to bed in first or the difference really is too small to spot.

luv2ride

Conversion of my singlespeed Arkose to 1x11 finally started:
Single speed spacers, sprocket and lock ring off, Sunrace mx-3 11-40 cassette on (looks bigger than the 160mm disc rotor on the other side :shock: )

Rear SS mech hanger "blank" replaced with mech hanger, Sram Apex 1x clutch mech on.

Samox single chain ring & crankset off, Shimano external BB out, Sram gxp BB in, Apex 1 crankset on.

Single hydro brake guides off, new hydro/cable guides on (bought replacements when bought the bike "just in case" )

"Test" fitted S-500 bar end shifter. Frustratingly had enough inner cable, but not outers or ferrules to complete. New cable, housing and ferrules ordered!

mrfpb

Went riding with cleats for the first time in 3 years. Toes were numb after 15 miles and I realised the balls of my feet were behind the spindles, so I adjusted cleats to further back (my shoes only have two positions).
Also put commute tyres on my daughters hardtail mtb in a bid to encourage her to take her bike to Uni when she starts this September. (She won't be able to drive and I want her to retain her road sense and skills)

Hopefully both bits of fettling will be road tested this afternoon.

kingdav

Taken the front caliper apart on my commuting bike, a 2010 Tiagra 4500 that was seized up a bit so you could brake but the spring tension wasn't enough to get the pads fully away from the rim leading to mudguard rub type noises. Very satisfying to clean all the parts, see how it worked grease the bolts and pivots and get it running sweetly again.

Mildly disappointed I can't now shop for some new calipers. Had my eye on these £12.50 sram ones at planetx, any idea where they sit in the hierarchy? They don't look much different to the double priced rival model they also have. This bike has apex levers, force FD and rival RD so any would do I suppose. If they have the swiss stop pads, they're worth buying for the pads.
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/BCSRAPNLO ... ke-caliper

luv2ride

Arkose Single speed conversion to 1 x 11 now complete.

Pretty chuffed as it all went together pretty well. Had a minor moment thinking the 114 link KMC chain wasn't quite long enough but hadn't threaded the chain under the RD jockey cage tab :oops: Was just the right length in the end, as was the gear cable. Rear shifting is great, though suspect I'll have some adjustments to make after the cables stretch and the ferules bed in. Bar end shifter seems fairly intuitive in use. Happy 8)

Shake down ride this pm after the rain clears up...sorry for the crapness of photos:

redvee

For the last week or so I've had one of those annoying clicks when I pedal so took my hands off the bars as I rode and it stopped so last week I undone the handlebar clamp and greased the bolts and clamp and reassembled and still the noise was there. Today's attempt at curing it was to do the same with the saddle.

wolfsbane2k

Been meaning every morning for the last 2 weeks to check the tyre pressure and give it a top up.
Finally remembered this morning - down from 100psi to 75 on the front and 110 to 70 on the back.

Flew this morning!

redvee

redvee wrote:

For the last week or so I've had one of those annoying clicks when I pedal so took my hands off the bars as I rode and it stopped so last week I undone the handlebar clamp and greased the bolts and clamp and reassembled and still the noise was there. Today's attempt at curing it was to do the same with the saddle.

It worked , a silent ride now apart from the Hope rear hub.

wolfsbane2k

A 'simple' flat tyre repair that lead to a full clean of the back wheel, which lead to a 'hmm, brake wear isn't right', which lead to a remove, clean and refit brake calipers, deglaze pads, and removing and remounting the pannier rack as the holding brackets were just preventing full movement of the brake caliper resulting in uneven wear...
While hiding from a thunderstorm under the garage door. I really must clean out the garage again...

roger_merriman

Wolfsbane2k wrote:

Been meaning every morning for the last 2 weeks to check the tyre pressure and give it a top up.
Finally remembered this morning - down from 100psi to 75 on the front and 110 to 70 on the back.

Flew this morning!

Keep thinking it’s been a while for the commute bike, though Marathon pluses in larger sizes seem to hold there pressure for weeks if not months with out dropping, unlike the MTB and the Roadie that will drop off.

redvee

Technically not fettling but whilst watching PR on Sunday I sewed up the gloves that needed it, as it turned out only three of my gloves/mittens needed the attention of a needle and thread.
Tonight I brought the cold weather back by moving the long sleeve jersies and 3/4 bibs to the less accessable drawer so it's now short sleeves and arm warmers when needed till November with knee warmers.

luv2ride

Replaced the WTB Crosswolves on my Kinesis CX Disc wheels with some tubeless WTB Exposure 32mm tyres. Both went up first time using my Airwave tubeless tank track pump thingy. Quite impressed after 1st run out on them today, pretty cushioned ride. Running them 50 psi front, 55 psi rear.

milemuncher1

Today I was mostly trying to remove the old 28mm Tannus tyres, and replace them with the new 25mm Tannus tyres. Well it started well, a well positioned screwdriver through the fixing pin holes, then the supplied fitting tool underneath the tyre and roll it to pop the pins out. Job jobbed. Then I tried to fit the new 25mm numbers. It involves an undignified looking standing position over the wheel, and some arm strength. So far so good. Then I went to snap the pins into place. It wasn’t happening as easily as the old ones, so I tried a bit harder, it was still not happening. So just to be on the safe side I measured the bit of the tyre, that sits in the well of the wheel. The new ones are 1mm wider than the old ones. They really aren’t going in without a fight. I may put the old ones back on, and drop the bike down to the place I know with the machine that makes it much easier. I’ll give it another go tonight first though.

prawny

I've been trying to trace an annoying Rumble, which I assumed was my BB but after replacing it, it turns out it was only half of the problem. I think it's the freehub, I've soaked it in WD40 and GT85 this week, and it's been better, but I think I'm going to have to strip it over the weekend. Yay, my favourite job.

Might just buy a new wheel, Aksiums aren't the easiest to service poking around online.

milemuncher1

prawny wrote:

I've been trying to trace an annoying Rumble, which I assumed was my BB but after replacing it, it turns out it was only half of the problem. I think it's the freehub, I've soaked it in WD40 and GT85 this week, and it's been better, but I think I'm going to have to strip it over the weekend. Yay, my favourite job.

Might just buy a new wheel, Aksiums aren't the easiest to service poking around online.

That’s the infamous ‘Mavic growl’ you’re on a hiding to nothing trying to service them.

redvee

redvee wrote:

redvee wrote:

For the last week or so I've had one of those annoying clicks when I pedal so took my hands off the bars as I rode and it stopped so last week I undone the handlebar clamp and greased the bolts and clamp and reassembled and still the noise was there. Today's attempt at curing it was to do the same with the saddle.

It worked , a silent ride now apart from the Hope rear hub.

I spoke to soon, it came back on Thursday and when I leant on the saddle it creaked so after 7 years I might be retiring my original Charge Spoon saddle.

luv2ride

While waiting for the rain to clear, and in anticipation of decent weather next week, fitted 25mm Vittoria Corsa-G tyres to the carbon wheels for the CR1 (the tan walls look great IMHO 8) ), then mounted the Open Pave 25mm's previously on the carbon wheels onto my Zonda's, but this time I'm trying them with latex tubes to see if I can tell what the fuss is about....

Son came back from a ride on my old Tifosi last week and i discovered thismorning he'd managed to muller the frontmech somehow (not that he said anything when he brought it back, but I know it was running perfectly before). Think I'll save that fettle for later :roll:

rick_chasey

Fitted a new chain to the single speed.

Under-estimated how worn the sprocket was. Made an absolute racket whilst I was riding around.

Got that tool thing which helps you take the sprocket/hub off, and replaced it with loadsa grease. Is basically a silent freewheel which is actually a bit of a pain.

Single speed isn't gonna die yet; gonna try riding to the next station down on it a couple days a week.

Turns out these long 5 mile Fen roads are actually pretty hard work on a 48x16, especially when the wind blows. You forget how much the traffic in London sucks you along, and how soon it is till you hit some lights.

roger_merriman

Rick Chasey wrote:

Fitted a new chain to the single speed.

Under-estimated how worn the sprocket was. Made an absolute racket whilst I was riding around.

Got that tool thing which helps you take the sprocket/hub off, and replaced it with loadsa grease. Is basically a silent freewheel which is actually a bit of a pain.

Single speed isn't gonna die yet; gonna try riding to the next station down on it a couple days a week.

Turns out these long 5 mile Fen roads are actually pretty hard work on a 48x16, especially when the wind blows. You forget how much the traffic in London sucks you along, and how soon it is till you hit some lights.

The Embankment is particularly prone to that, even on my heavy lump of a commute/town bike that road flattered the ego!

mrfpb

Veronese68 wrote:

lettingthedaysgoby wrote:

...took the pads out, essentially no braking surface left other than a layer of gritty black slime :shock:

I would say that is the only down side of hydraulic discs, you don't notice wear as they self adjust and it's easy to let that happen. Hopefully you will only do it the once and will remember to check. Mine have never completely worn out and I do try to make a point of checking more often now.

I've been considering "next bike" - just daydreaming at the moment- and every candidate has Hydro discs (as I a m not going back to rim brakes).

What is the fettling kit needed when going from mechanical discs to hydro? And is it a big deal fettling them in comparison to mechanical?

milemuncher1

I found an old rear wheel and freehub in the garage. It was a bit graunchy, but there was no play, so I greased the bearings, and it seems fine, so I found an inner tube and a tyre, and then stuck one of the three 11-30 9 speed cassettes I ordered yesterday, and put it on the 9 speed bike which was on the 28mm Tannus tyres, I had to re fit, because the inner rim width is too narrow for the 25mm Tannus tyres I bought to replace the 28mm Tannus tyres. I’m getting very good at removing and fitting them now.

hopkinb

mrfpb wrote:

And is it a big deal fettling them in comparison to mechanical?

My experience of over 2 years with sram rival hydraulics has been fit pads, adjust calliper so no rubbing, ignore (but check for pad wear every couple of weeks as part of cursory maintenance routine). They just work.

luv2ride

hopkinb wrote:

mrfpb wrote:

And is it a big deal fettling them in comparison to mechanical?

My experience of over 2 years with sram rival hydraulics has been fit pads, adjust calliper so no rubbing, ignore (but check for pad wear every couple of weeks as part of cursory maintenance routine). They just work.

Similar experience here with Shimano R685 hydro brakes. They've literally been fit and forget (though check for wear, as above),and are awesome to use. Infinitely better than the mechanical TRP Spyres I have on another bike, where the rear just doesn't seem to have ever worked properly, despite pad changes, new rotors, meticulous cleaning and almost constant fettling. I wish I had hydro brakes on that bike!

UndercoverElephant

Luv2ride wrote:

hopkinb wrote:

mrfpb wrote:

And is it a big deal fettling them in comparison to mechanical?

My experience of over 2 years with sram rival hydraulics has been fit pads, adjust calliper so no rubbing, ignore (but check for pad wear every couple of weeks as part of cursory maintenance routine). They just work.

Similar experience here with Shimano R685 hydro brakes. They've literally been fit and forget (though check for wear, as above),and are awesome to use. Infinitely better than the mechanical TRP Spyres I have on another bike, where the rear just doesn't seem to have ever worked properly, despite pad changes, new rotors, meticulous cleaning and almost constant fettling. I wish I had hydro brakes on that bike!

My experience was different (Shimano 785s), damn things leaked oil onto the pads from the pistons and were an utter ball-ache; nasty, squealing, non-stoppy things. Replaced them with some Hope calipers and it has been a fit-and-forget thing from then on.