Thread to tell everyone what bike gear you've just bought !

asprilla

bendertherobot wrote:

Asprilla wrote:

bendertherobot wrote:

Yeah, or, look at it this way. Thing is, it's a Garmin Swim, Forerunner 235 and 520 all rolled into one. So, it's not that bad.

How many HRMs do you get in the box? I got my Fenix 3 for about £180 from Sportpursuit when the sent out a 25% off voucher. HRMs for Running and Swimming have cost a substantial amount on top.

I've given up wearing my other watch (which is probably a bad hing because it's what I got from my wife instead of a wedding ring).

None, all the 5 models have integrated optical sensors now. Which was another reason to change. I prefer not wearing one and, as long as it's accurate ish, then all good.

I did have the HRM run version but, I think if i was super serious, I'd get the HRM Tri.

That version is £549 bundled up so I'd wait to see if that drops in price.

I've not done badly here. Bought my Fenix 3 for £300 last November. Sold it for £280 to the cost to change isn't all that bad.

HRMTri is only recommended for open water swimming. The chlorine in the pool rots it. The HRMSwim doesn't rot in the pool and is much tighter so it doesn't slip down when turning. It's not recommended for triathlons as it's very tight. I think the HRMTri has all the additional sensor info that the HRMRun has.

At the moment I have the Run and Swim.

itboffin

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

itboffin wrote:

there's plenty of followers of set waaaay back cleats, some well behind the middle of the foot.

Blimey, is that to eliminate discomfort or something? even when using flats I have the axle under the ball of my foot.

nope i think old Keith B said it more efficient and once you get used to it blah blah blah, fecking odd too me

Exploding myths is tough work. People don't want to believe that their ideas about how things work or how things should be are wrong. Keith Bontrager tackles one of our primary beliefs about bike fit: that aligning the rider's knee over the pedal spindle is critical for proper positioning. He shows that there is no physiological basis for it. His dismissal of that rule, and his alternative method of bike fit, is based on quite a bit of anatomical study and a lot of practical experience in fitting riders to his custom-built framesets. Some of the ideas in this article may be initially hard to grasp, but if you bear with it, you will derive an understanding of an approach to bike fit that considers the needs of the rider in all riding positions, not just the seated one.

FoldingJoe

bendertherobot wrote:

FoldingJoe wrote:

Is that the Fenix 5, bendertherobot?

Which one did you go for? Hope the GPS tracks are better on the 5 than my 3.

Tis indeed. 'Just' the slate grey normal 5 non sapphire. £439 at Wiggle with my plat discount.

What trouble are you having? My 3 always seemed fine?

I always seemed to get tracks that were way off course when under tree cover, or in built up areas - my Ambit 3 was way better in that respect.

fenix

Fenix 5 looks lovely - but my 3 has been good. Not noticed any issues with tracking ?

bluemoon17

A couple of new water bottles, some Fizik bar tape, and a dhb mesh base layer. Interested to see how the base layer compares to my Craft one's- have been using them for a couple of years now, but thought I'd give the dhb a go since they haven't been below £20 in a while. I paid less than £15 for the dhb- well worth a risk.

UndercoverElephant

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyre, sealant and tubeless tyre valve thingies.

I've had tubeless compatible wheels for over a year now and haven't given into the itch. Sometimes it's just too hard to bear.

itboffin

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyre, sealant and tubeless tyre valve thingies.

I've had tubeless compatible wheels for over a year now and haven't given into the itch. Sometimes it's just too hard to bear.

damn you youre not helping me at all

meanredspider

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyre, sealant and tubeless tyre valve thingies.

I've had tubeless compatible wheels for over a year now and haven't given into the itch. Sometimes it's just too hard to bear.

Top tips (apologies if you don't need these). Lots of soapy water, no sealant, and get the tyres to bed on the hooks first. Then fill sealant through valve stem (syringe for this is very useful if you don't have one)

itboffin

meanredspider wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyre, sealant and tubeless tyre valve thingies.

I've had tubeless compatible wheels for over a year now and haven't given into the itch. Sometimes it's just too hard to bear.

Top tips (apologies if you don't need these). Lots of soapy water, no sealant, and get the tyres to bed on the hooks first. Then fill sealant through valve stem (syringe for this is very useful if you don't have one)

see all that faff puts me right back off again, what i need is to ride on a set here in the Windshire boons

meanredspider

itboffin wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyre, sealant and tubeless tyre valve thingies.

I've had tubeless compatible wheels for over a year now and haven't given into the itch. Sometimes it's just too hard to bear.

Top tips (apologies if you don't need these). Lots of soapy water, no sealant, and get the tyres to bed on the hooks first. Then fill sealant through valve stem (syringe for this is very useful if you don't have one)

see all that faff puts me right back off again, what i need is to ride on a set here in the Windshire boons

If it's any help, my Jamis running S-Ones (tubeless) is measurably slower than my Foil running Open Paves. Different tyres and bikes but the gap is bigger than I'd expect.

k1875

Not bought exactly, but queued up outside for the opening of the new cycle republic store in Edinburgh and was rewarded with a free Mask Mojito ! They fixed my broken spoke for free as well.

Good work recently opened bike shop fellas !

spasypaddy

hero 5 session and a rapha pro team base layer in the sale.

itboffin

i recently bought a sks tyre pressure gauge, waste of money POS when it does actually take a reading is wrong by miles

sloppyschleckonds

itboffin wrote:

i recently bought a sks tyre pressure gauge, waste of money POS when it does actually take a reading is wrong by miles

Sounds like you bought an Odometer

itboffin

lol didnt someone recently have a right hissy fit about the definition of one of those?

spasypaddy

an above handlebar mount for my gopro on amazon for £4.

meanredspider

spasypaddy wrote:

an above handlebar mount for my gopro on amazon for £4.

Hope it's better than the GoPro one - mine broke, the camera case broke, the camera shattered and, worst of all, I lost the memory card.

roger_merriman

meanredspider wrote:

itboffin wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyre, sealant and tubeless tyre valve thingies.

I've had tubeless compatible wheels for over a year now and haven't given into the itch. Sometimes it's just too hard to bear.

Top tips (apologies if you don't need these). Lots of soapy water, no sealant, and get the tyres to bed on the hooks first. Then fill sealant through valve stem (syringe for this is very useful if you don't have one)

see all that faff puts me right back off again, what i need is to ride on a set here in the Windshire boons

If it's any help, my Jamis running S-Ones (tubeless) is measurably slower than my Foil running Open Paves. Different tyres and bikes but the gap is bigger than I'd expect.

I suspect tyres them selfs are a small part of the equation, and on the flat at least weight too, my Cheap and cheerful CX weighs a ton, and has full knobbys be that higher end ones, but the drag seems mostly due to it having a relatively upright position, yet get in the drops at least some of the time, and I can equal times on the last bike which was a Fuji track.

I.e. A bike 8lb lighter with in theory faster tires etc, and arguably a fitter faster rider as well!

meanredspider

roger merriman wrote:

I suspect tyres them selfs are a small part of the equation, and on the flat at least weight too, my Cheap and cheerful CX weighs a ton, and has full knobbys be that higher end ones, but the drag seems mostly due to it having a relatively upright position, yet get in the drops at least some of the time, and I can equal times on the last bike which was a Fuji track.

I.e. A bike 8lb lighter with in theory faster tires etc, and arguably a fitter faster rider as well!

Hmm - there may be a little in what you say but not enough to make that difference. My Volagi has a more relaxed geometry than the Foil but my best speeds on either bike are inseparable. I think there is more to tyres than we typically give them credit for. When I first got the Foil, I couldn't match the times of the V until I swapped to the same tyres on the Foil.

roger_merriman

meanredspider wrote:

roger merriman wrote:

I suspect tyres them selfs are a small part of the equation, and on the flat at least weight too, my Cheap and cheerful CX weighs a ton, and has full knobbys be that higher end ones, but the drag seems mostly due to it having a relatively upright position, yet get in the drops at least some of the time, and I can equal times on the last bike which was a Fuji track.

I.e. A bike 8lb lighter with in theory faster tires etc, and arguably a fitter faster rider as well!

Hmm - there may be a little in what you say but not enough to make that difference. My Volagi has a more relaxed geometry than the Foil but my best speeds on either bike are inseparable. I think there is more to tyres than we typically give them credit for. When I first got the Foil, I couldn't match the times of the V until I swapped to the same tyres on the Foil.

My general working theory is lot more complicated than folks give it credit for. And to compare it needs to be like to like.

Tyres can differ greatly now not like for like but being used for the same use, since changing from the Fuji Track and stuff like Conti 4seasons and the like to the old MTB with Mid end MTB tyres, slower rolling it is but equally massive increase in grip, greasy Tarmac which you'd need to take care is now a opportunity to embarrass scoooters round the bends!

UndercoverElephant

itboffin wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyre, sealant and tubeless tyre valve thingies.

I've had tubeless compatible wheels for over a year now and haven't given into the itch. Sometimes it's just too hard to bear.

Top tips (apologies if you don't need these). Lots of soapy water, no sealant, and get the tyres to bed on the hooks first. Then fill sealant through valve stem (syringe for this is very useful if you don't have one)

see all that faff puts me right back off again, what i need is to ride on a set here in the Windshire boons

Missed the top tips, forgot to check back. No faff at all so far, probably easier than not crimping a tube, all told. Attached the valve, seated the tyre, squirted some sealant in, turned the wheel and pumped it up. Simple, really. No mess, no hassle. Not ridden yet.

meanredspider

UndercoverElephant wrote:

itboffin wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyre, sealant and tubeless tyre valve thingies.

I've had tubeless compatible wheels for over a year now and haven't given into the itch. Sometimes it's just too hard to bear.

Top tips (apologies if you don't need these). Lots of soapy water, no sealant, and get the tyres to bed on the hooks first. Then fill sealant through valve stem (syringe for this is very useful if you don't have one)

see all that faff puts me right back off again, what i need is to ride on a set here in the Windshire boons

Missed the top tips, forgot to check back. No faff at all so far, probably easier than not crimping a tube, all told. Attached the valve, seated the tyre, squirted some sealant in, turned the wheel and pumped it up. Simple, really. No mess, no hassle. Not ridden yet.

Good job

UndercoverElephant

meanredspider wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

itboffin wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tyre, sealant and tubeless tyre valve thingies.

I've had tubeless compatible wheels for over a year now and haven't given into the itch. Sometimes it's just too hard to bear.

Top tips (apologies if you don't need these). Lots of soapy water, no sealant, and get the tyres to bed on the hooks first. Then fill sealant through valve stem (syringe for this is very useful if you don't have one)

see all that faff puts me right back off again, what i need is to ride on a set here in the Windshire boons

Missed the top tips, forgot to check back. No faff at all so far, probably easier than not crimping a tube, all told. Attached the valve, seated the tyre, squirted some sealant in, turned the wheel and pumped it up. Simple, really. No mess, no hassle. Not ridden yet.

Good job

Other than the fact I used twice as much sealant as was necessary mind you, maybe that's the secret.

meanredspider

When you say you "seated the tyre", did you get it seated on the hooks?

ETA - you may just have expert pumping action which means the goo doesn't spill all over the place :shock:

itboffin

where's Greg T when you need him?

UndercoverElephant

itboffin wrote:

where's Greg T when you need him?

Isn't he still locked in 66's basement?

Couldn't get the tyre onto the hooks without sealing, was just in the middle of the rim. Was using Stan's Grail rims if it makes a difference, sealed with yellow tape and Dr. Blue. When I heard air escaping, I turned that bit of the wheel to the bottom, pretty soon it held air nicely.

As for my pumping action, it's spectacular.

UndercoverElephant

Another tubeless tyre and bottle of sealant for the front :oops:

Admittedly I was going from a extra-sticky Vredestien Xtreme Weather so it's perhaps a bigger leap than most would feel, but I was grinning from ear to ear this morning. That, a clean bike, the sun's out and it'll be light out on the way home. Just fantastic.

roubaixmb

A long cage derailleur and a 32-tooth cassette (puny legs)

rick_chasey

.

Decided I wanted my club run bike to be 165mm cranks too.

Figured I might as well take the opportunity to go compact, so I did.

Am gutted, but I've been comprehensively smashed by riders on compacts in the past, so I'm clearly not so fast I can legitimately justify riding a standard.

itboffin

so you think its just the gearing then ;-P