Fixed/Single Speed Commuting

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Comments

  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    ddraver wrote:
    Confession - Every time I think I ve "got" skidding it turns out that I'm just unscrewing the cog...

    I had that it was driving me nuts until i found out that there are different sized lock rings, not by much mind but enough to unscrew under load

    this is not me admitting too nor condoning FG riding :roll:
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,717
    So chain tension question...

    Should there be any movement in the pedals when the bike is stationary (i.e. should the chain be tight in both directions or should there be a moment of no tension between forward and back in the pedals?)

    I ask as mine sounds like a flipping tractor at the moment...
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • dhope
    dhope Posts: 6,699
    ddraver wrote:
    So chain tension question...

    Should there be any movement in the pedals when the bike is stationary (i.e. should the chain be tight in both directions or should there be a moment of no tension between forward and back in the pedals?)

    I ask as mine sounds like a flipping tractor at the moment...

    No need to be absolutely tight, just not too slack. Enough to lift the chain by a centimetre or so with your finger at the middle.
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo
  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    ddraver wrote:
    So chain tension question...

    Should there be any movement in the pedals when the bike is stationary (i.e. should the chain be tight in both directions or should there be a moment of no tension between forward and back in the pedals?)

    I ask as mine sounds like a flipping tractor at the moment...

    I don't have any noticeable movement in the pedals on mine. As dhope said, about 1 cm of flex in the chain when you grab it is what you want. I do mine so that its tight but I can't feel any binding or hear excessive noise when pedalling on the workstand. If its very noisy then a tiny adjustment on the chain tug should be enough to quiet it down but keep the chain taught. For me any movement in the pedals tells me its time to retention it.
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,717
    hmmm, I think that I need to have a better look at this "tight in places, less tight in other places" thing...

    On the plus side, switched from 48x19 to 48x17 and havent died yet....
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    Ok bumping this thread as I need some more tech help and didn't want to make a new thread.


    Is there a nack to installing chainrings? I have a horrible tight spot on mine and no matter how many times I re-install the ring it is sill there. I have got it to a point where I can run the chain tight but its still not perfect, i think the ring is off-centre rather than oddly shaped ad the tight spot moved a bit with each re-install.
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,717
    The stock answer to this on lfgss appears to be "buy a better chain ring". As in cheap ones will be less round than better quality ones. I have no idea how true this is though...?
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    I did another Google search on this and Sheldon seems to have an answer (first one before the post came up with nothing, turns out "align chainring" was the wrong thing to look for). I will try it in the next couple of days and report back.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html in the centering chainwheels section.
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP
  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    Well it seems to have worked nicely. Turns out one of my bolts worked loose to allow the chainring to shift a bit. Now I can tension the chain properly again and get back on the road.
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Thread resurrection:

    I'm thinking of converting my Alfine-geared Pompetamine to a single-speed option, and changing the brakes to TRP HyRds. I'm fed up of the Alfine/Versa combination and the weight.

    Does anyone have recommendations for a wheelset? Looking for single-speed and disc compatible, so no brake track required.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • dhope
    dhope Posts: 6,699
    davis wrote:
    Does anyone have recommendations for a wheelset? Looking for single-speed and disc compatible, so no brake track required.
    PM Ugo
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    dhope wrote:
    davis wrote:
    Does anyone have recommendations for a wheelset? Looking for single-speed and disc compatible, so no brake track required.
    PM Ugo

    Yep he's built a lovely pair (fnarr!) for me before, but I'm unlikely to be in SW London any time soon... Any mail order options?
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Or is this the push required to get me to build my own...
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    Winter is coming.... time to build up the 'new' winter fixed!

    Currently riding on Cinelli Lola bars paired with a TT lever but looking at cheaper options for this build. Can't decide if the low rider will be, well a bit low(?!).

    deda-crononero-bar-zoom.jpg
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    holy20thread20resurrection.jpg
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • dyrlac
    dyrlac Posts: 751
    Winter is coming.... time to build up the 'new' winter fixed!

    Currently riding on Cinelli Lola bars paired with a TT lever but looking at cheaper options for this build. Can't decide if the low rider will be, well a bit low(?!).

    deda-crononero-bar-zoom.jpg

    Low rider for the win: primarily for aero advantage--hugely important for dropping geared wheel suckers into a headwind (also looks cooler). Keep an eye on the internal bar diameter for TT lever compatability (see cautionary tale in my sig link to my winter-dressed setup). The tops (if you can call them that) are a bit awkward on low riders though: a consideration if you regularly tackle 15%+ grades on cobbles in the wet.
  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    Winter is coming.... time to build up the 'new' winter fixed!

    Currently riding on Cinelli Lola bars paired with a TT lever but looking at cheaper options for this build. Can't decide if the low rider will be, well a bit low(?!).

    deda-crononero-bar-zoom.jpg

    I have the Tri on my fixed and they are great. My stem is slammed on a short headtube so in a super low position already, which is why i didn't go low rider. This and a cane creek TT leaver are a good combo IMO.
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,717
    Hate to be the sensible one but measure the position of your summer bike so you can recreate it on the new one to see if you need the extra drop or not

    Or feck it all off, it's a fixie and a fashion statement. Get the low rider! ;)
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    feck it!

    It's always windy, my commute is reducing 4 miles and it can't be as low as this setup!

    Can always take up yoga to fix my back..
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    Gettin' low

    IMG_3766-PS_zpsyh8kstds.jpg

    Overall very happy on the first ride out.

    Brake lever is a bit of stretch with these bars (Cane Creek 200TT), they don't naturally sit under your hand; recommendations for TT levers that are more snug?

    Verdict is still out on the £10 saddle.
  • dhope
    dhope Posts: 6,699
    Gettin' low

    IMG_3766-PS_zpsyh8kstds.jpg

    Overall very happy on the first ride out.

    Brake lever is a bit of stretch with these bars (Cane Creek 200TT), they don't naturally sit under your hand; recommendations for TT levers that are more snug?

    Verdict is still out on the £10 saddle.

    I do like that.
    Going the other way on mine. 28's and PDW fenders for winter.
    Though a Condor Tempo is never going to look as aggressive as a Trek T1 :D

    Maybe bullhorns... I have the Condor TT levers
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo
  • dyrlac
    dyrlac Posts: 751
    Gettin' low

    IMG_3766-PS_zpsyh8kstds.jpg

    Overall very happy on the first ride out.

    Brake lever is a bit of stretch with these bars (Cane Creek 200TT), they don't naturally sit under your hand; recommendations for TT levers that are more snug?

    Verdict is still out on the £10 saddle.

    Oh hells yes. That looks like it has pure murder in its heart ... in a good way (ignoring the saddle :wink:).

    Cane Creek 200TTs are sold under lots of different brands, so difficult to find real alternatives (mine are Tektro 4.1s which I'm pretty sure are the same thing or near enough). Think these: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/3t-aero-alloy-brake-levers/ have a narrower profile, but are way overpriced.
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,717
    the obvious - if drastic - answer is to trim the tips off the ends of the bars. Do you use them much?
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    dhope, to be honest, a tempo[disc] is the dream but this ghetto setup was much cheaper!
    the obvious - if drastic - answer is to trim the tips off the ends of the bars. Do you use them much?

    The obvious hadn't occurred to me and it doesn't seem that drastic when I have all the tools for stem cutting.
    It has only done 30 odd miles but it's clear something has to be done. Taking 1-2cm off the brake side makes sense.

    Cheaper than buying the 3T levers when I only need 1!
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,717
    It would look pretty weird but you could - Perhaps try untaping the bar tip first to give you an idea of ho much you might miss it. The issue I can see is that you don't end up with a long enough "flat bit" for your hand not to slip off the edge...

    I have tiny hands so it wouldnt be such an issue but you may differ. It also removes a hand position
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    It would look pretty weird but you could - Perhaps try untaping the bar tip first to give you an idea of ho much you might miss it. The issue I can see is that you don't end up with a long enough "flat bit" for your hand not to slip off the edge...

    I have tiny hands so it wouldnt be such an issue but you may differ. It also removes a hand position

    Yes, in hindsight that was a bit of an exaggeration, a few mm just to take the angle off and let the lever sit flusher. MAX 0.5cm

    Brake aside, the new build is excellent, the tight frame means my feet stay dry, even on a long wet ride and the lower 48x17 (23c) gearing is a hoot on the hills and away from the lights. The lower bars are making a noticeable difference in speed/aero too.
  • Afternoon

    I see the Boardman TK Pro is reduced, anyone any experience of these / commuting in these??
    Boardman Team Comp
    Boardman CX Team
    Boardman Full Suss Pro
    Brick Lane fixie
    Genesis Day One
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    A guy in my club uses one on his commute, seemed happy enough (although it was fairly new when I saw him on it).

    One thing to be aware of is the brakes are on the horizontal of the bar, rather than standard road style drop leavers - he'd paid to have his swapped.

    Looking at your sig it seems you're a Boardman fan so I'm sure you'd be happy!
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,717
    Looking at your sig it seems you're a Boardman fan so I'm sure you'd be happy!

    :shock: :shock: :shock:

    I'd just get something else just for the sake of it... :P
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • dhope
    dhope Posts: 6,699
    Looking at your sig it seems you're a Boardman fan so I'm sure you'd be happy!

    :shock: :shock: :shock:

    I'd just get something else just for the sake of it... :P

    I'd agree. But you can get it pretty cheap atm...

    £500 atm, but £40 off over £400 though, so £460.
    Then 10% British Cycling, £414
    Then vouchers 10% trick £372.60

    SRAM Omnium chainset is pretty decent. No clue how good the Boardman branded wheels are but I expect they're perfectly adequate.

    I'm just a bit concerned that DanielB will go and buy one because we've said it's a good deal :wink:
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo