Fixed/Single Speed Commuting

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  • jonginge
    jonginge Posts: 5,945
    lost_in_thought wrote:
    I will certainly be replacing the saddle with the one I had on the Gollum bike (RIP) because that made such a difference to my quality of life, and I might get a shiny new half-links-only chain for greater chain tension... and a tensioner... aaaaaaand all sorts of other things that I don't really need!! :D:D:D

    Careful. That's how it starts: "I'll just buy a spoke key" and the next thing you know you have enough equipment to fill a ProTour (RIP) team bus.
    FCN 2-4 "Shut up legs", Jens Voigt
    Planet-x Scott
    Rides
  • 2wheelzgood
    2wheelzgood Posts: 373
    Bit confused, why would you need to a tensioner and half link chain on a biek with track ends?
    I have a gusset hlaf linker and a tensioner on my Dawes but that's 'cos it's a conversion with vertical dropouts.

    get an aerobar. that's what you really need!
    FCN4: Langster Pro
    FCN8 Dawes Audax
    FCN13: Pompetamine dad and daughter bike

    FCN5 Modded Dawes Hybrid R.I.P.
    FCN6 Fixed beater bike (on loan to brother in law)
  • lost_in_thought
    lost_in_thought Posts: 10,563
    2wheelzgood wrote:
    Bit confused, why would you need to a tensioner and half link chain on a biek with track ends?
    I have a gusset hlaf linker and a tensioner on my Dawes but that's 'cos it's a conversion with vertical dropouts.

    get an aerobar. that's what you really need!

    Half-link chain can stand a higher tension for snappier acceleration and better response as well as being smoother, and the tensioner goes on the horizontal dropouts to maintain said tension... All very important, you know! :)

    Not over-keen on aerobars... sell them to me if you disagree!
    FCN 7/1
    Viner Maxima, Tifosi CK7, Giant Bowery, Old commuter.
  • 2wheelzgood
    2wheelzgood Posts: 373
    edited August 2008
    AH a chain tug type thing(which I have on my fixie), not a tensioner like on my Dawes.
    I didn't know half links were stronger. I was told my 1/8" chain (which happens to be half link) is stronger but cos of the size.

    I've heard track bikes have standard link 1/8" so I bet they are strong. On the other hand fixedgear101 and sheldon brown I think claim that 3/32 standard chains are plenty good enough if you get a good one.

    this is all based on sane gearing and normal use though :wink:

    edit: chain tensioner I ha din mind:
    n511995619_652283_2805.jpg
    FCN4: Langster Pro
    FCN8 Dawes Audax
    FCN13: Pompetamine dad and daughter bike

    FCN5 Modded Dawes Hybrid R.I.P.
    FCN6 Fixed beater bike (on loan to brother in law)
  • Littigator
    Littigator Posts: 1,262
    sane gearing is something you could never accuse LiT of!
    Roadie FCN: 3

    Fixed FCN: 6
  • lost_in_thought
    lost_in_thought Posts: 10,563
    Littigator wrote:
    sane gearing is something you could never accuse LiT of!

    Guilty!

    Also.....

    Half-link chains look pwitty...

    I'm becoming a ...


    650x570-tartaki_fresko_frouto.jpg
    FCN 7/1
    Viner Maxima, Tifosi CK7, Giant Bowery, Old commuter.
  • 2wheelzgood
    2wheelzgood Posts: 373
    they do don't they
    n511995619_1079594_6393.jpg
    :oops: :lol:
    FCN4: Langster Pro
    FCN8 Dawes Audax
    FCN13: Pompetamine dad and daughter bike

    FCN5 Modded Dawes Hybrid R.I.P.
    FCN6 Fixed beater bike (on loan to brother in law)
  • biondino
    biondino Posts: 5,990
    Aren't they significantly heavier? (says the geared roadie)
    My Focus / My Bob Jackson
    Blog (incl. bikes)
  • lost_in_thought
    lost_in_thought Posts: 10,563
    I understand that the ones with hollow pins are about the same... but yeah the solid pin ones are heavier...

    However, until I decrease my own weight I don't think I need to worry too much about a few extra ounces on the bike!
    FCN 7/1
    Viner Maxima, Tifosi CK7, Giant Bowery, Old commuter.
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    LIT, you're never going to lose wieght pushing those massive gears building up muscles all the time...




    so buy a hollowpin halflink!!!!
    Neeermad
    Carbon 456
    456 lefty
    Pompino
    White Inbred
  • pst88
    pst88 Posts: 621
    lost_in_thought wrote:
    .. the tensioner goes on the horizontal dropouts to maintain said tension... All very important, you know!
    The Giant Bowery already comes with chain tugs so don't rush out and buy some.
    Bianchi Via Nirone Veloce/Centaur 2010
  • lost_in_thought
    lost_in_thought Posts: 10,563
    I noticed - and on both sides! Fancy! :D
    FCN 7/1
    Viner Maxima, Tifosi CK7, Giant Bowery, Old commuter.
  • lost_in_thought
    lost_in_thought Posts: 10,563
    So...

    I cycled home on friday afternoon having very (un)intelligently decided not to bring my clippety sandals, and so had to use the standard issue toe-clip pedals, but I am of the opinion (misguided or not) that toe clips are jeffing dangerous, so I used the other side.

    And I tell you what, having got used to SPDs, riding without them is rather scary! Don't know whether it was the fact that it's a fixie or not, but nonetheless, scary! Kept thinking I had pedal strike, whereas in fact it was the dangling straps... :shock:

    So then this morning I arose early at 8 and put the spd pedals on the giant, and off I went.

    And I tell you what, 4 inches does make a hell of a lot of difference. (snicker snicker)

    Unfortunately, I didn't have my computer on the bike, for lo, they stole all the damn brackets on my handlebars, but I may have been going faster. Certainly accelerating faster, but once it spins up it all gets a bit bouncy - I'm jus tnot used to being able to move me feet that fast, I think. Any tips?

    And I'l getting used to riding on the hoods, but I'm struggling to pull the brakes hard enough for more urgent stopping, again, any tips?

    Thanks! :D
    FCN 7/1
    Viner Maxima, Tifosi CK7, Giant Bowery, Old commuter.
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    For the bouncing, try pedalling smoother, scraping motion for the dead-spot.

    for braking issues, interrupter levers. I've just fitted a set to my pompino even though you aren't supposed to use them with v-s. They are really spongey because the lever ratio is wrong, but still work well enough to trackstand with a freewheel. I'd imagine they'd work really well with calipers, and you don't need to remove the bar-tape to fit them!
    Neeermad
    Carbon 456
    456 lefty
    Pompino
    White Inbred
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    For the bouncing, try pedalling smoother, scraping motion for the dead-spot.

    for braking issues, interrupter levers. I've just fitted a set to my pompino even though you aren't supposed to use them with v-s. They are really spongey because the lever ratio is wrong, but still work well enough to trackstand with a freewheel. I'd imagine they'd work really well with calipers, and you don't need to remove the bar-tape to fit them!

    I'm also enlarging my ring from 69 GI to 75.6 GI, it should be a laugh!
    Neeermad
    Carbon 456
    456 lefty
    Pompino
    White Inbred
  • Littigator
    Littigator Posts: 1,262
    The brakes on my Bowery are just about the worst thing on the bike. I'm going to put some decent pads on asap and have tightened up distance between the blocks and the rims as they were about a mile out each side. This should help with the amount of travel you have on them and make them more responsive.

    On the bouncy pedlin side it's all a matter of practice. There was an article in the Technique section a while back that covered smoother pedlin, you could try searching for that.

    And as for cycling without clippy pedals, yeah it's a nightmare once you've got used to them, you feel totally unconnected to the bike and like you could just fall off at any moment

    :shock:
    Roadie FCN: 3

    Fixed FCN: 6
  • roger_merriman
    roger_merriman Posts: 6,165
    even if your not used to them road pedals are fairly slippery, one of the the first things i did when i got old red was get some clipless even though i had always been flats before as the road pedals don't have the bite of a good MTB flat, which would look a tat odd on a old racer...
  • lost_in_thought
    lost_in_thought Posts: 10,563
    I really is bloomin scary! I'm glad I'm not alone in thinking that :)

    And yes, Roger, you're right, I had forgotten I'd replaced the pedals on my flat-pedal-machine of yore with spike MTB ones.

    As for the brakes, Litts, that's very interesting. I'm trying to get by without an interrupter for a while, to make myself ride on the hoods as apparently that's where I should be riding, but I don't know, maybe my hands aren't strong enough to pull them really hard or something, they're set up pretty close to the wheels....

    Maybe I should switch out the pads if it doesn't improve? Different levers? It's a bit perturbing! I like being able to stop!
    FCN 7/1
    Viner Maxima, Tifosi CK7, Giant Bowery, Old commuter.
  • Coriander
    Coriander Posts: 1,326
    lost_in_thought wrote:
    As for the brakes, Litts, that's very interesting. I'm trying to get by without an interrupter for a while, to make myself ride on the hoods as apparently that's where I should be riding, but I don't know, maybe my hands aren't strong enough to pull them really hard or something, they're set up pretty close to the wheels....!

    Hi, L-i-T,

    When I got my new bike last year I ended up with a Tricross precisely because of that problem with the brakes on the drops. And apparently it's because men's hands are bigger than women's, so they can reach the brake levers there more easily. That distance is one of the things they change on women specific bikes. It's probably simply that your hands are too small and you may never be able to get enough traction to pull hard on them in an emergency.

    I love having the option on my Tricross of the interrupters as well as the drop levers and would never be without them. I can see myself putting some on when I upgrade to a road bile.
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    My new ring (a rather lovely TA Specialities one) has arrived - gonna mount it this evening, hello bigger inches...
  • lost_in_thought
    lost_in_thought Posts: 10,563
    jashburnham wrote:
    My new ring (a rather lovely TA Specialities one) has arrived - gonna mount it this evening, hello bigger inches...

    Woop! Excellent! How many extra inches do you get from mounting your bigger ring??

    Snicker snicker... as ever... does this joke get old?
    And apparently it's because men's hands are bigger than women's, so they can reach the brake levers there more easily. That distance is one of the things they change on women specific bikes. It's probably simply that your hands are too small and you may never be able to get enough traction to pull hard on them in an emergency.

    Very interesting! I do have giant shovel hands due to unfortunate genetics, but I just seem to be trying to pull on the top of the lever and due to ye olde law of moments have to pull harder. Do you know if they make girly brake levers then?

    The issue with interrupters is as LBS man said - do you really need the brakes on the drops?
    FCN 7/1
    Viner Maxima, Tifosi CK7, Giant Bowery, Old commuter.
  • Littigator
    Littigator Posts: 1,262
    jokes about rings, expansion and inches...like fart jokes... never fails to raise a smile!

    Cheers Jash

    LiT - re the brakes defo go for decent pads, the ones provided are about as grippy as ....errr errr something not very grippy at all!

    As for distance between blocks and rim, about 1mm if you can adjust it to that.
    Roadie FCN: 3

    Fixed FCN: 6
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    LiT - try Kool Stop pads: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/Kool_Stop_Dura_Ace~Ultegra~105_Pair_Of_Cartridge_Inserts/5300005952/
  • Coriander
    Coriander Posts: 1,326
    lost_in_thought wrote:
    Very interesting! I do have giant shovel hands due to unfortunate genetics, but I just seem to be trying to pull on the top of the lever and due to ye olde law of moments have to pull harder. Do you know if they make girly brake levers then?

    The issue with interrupters is as LBS man said - do you really need the brakes on the drops?

    I don't know - you'd need ones with a bit of an inward curl. Oooh, ooh, have just remembered - last time my bike was serviced the chap ordered some thingies which went in the hood and lifted the brake up a bit, which of course then moved the drop of the lever in a bit and meant I could reach it.

    You might have gathered that I'm not very technical, but I'm sure some of the fantastic boys on here will be able to interpret what I've said and give you the real name of the bits. Or a good bike shop would, I'd guess, And they cost about 2 quid for a pair.
  • lost_in_thought
    lost_in_thought Posts: 10,563
    Right then, I've ordered the kool pads, thanks, and I will pay a visit to LBS man, and tell him about the hood-insert-brake-lever-lifty-things... which is also about as technical as I get... and we wonder why they laugh at us girls... :lol:
    FCN 7/1
    Viner Maxima, Tifosi CK7, Giant Bowery, Old commuter.
  • Littigator
    Littigator Posts: 1,262
    Coriander wrote:
    Oooh, ooh, have just remembered - last time my bike was serviced the chap ordered some thingies

    Awww bless! :wink:
    Roadie FCN: 3

    Fixed FCN: 6
  • Greg T
    Greg T Posts: 3,266
    Now here's a thing.....

    I've been in the shed stripping down my old Dawes road bike.

    I'm considering converting it to SS / F - however - it has vertical drop outs.

    I've seen other conversions that are fixed on vertical drop outs that don't use tensioners.

    Have I just got to hope that the ring sizes (gnurk etc) and the cogs fit "just right" with a chain length?

    Eccentric hubs are tres tres expensive and I'd have to have a wheel built - Suddenly I'm looking at 250 quid for a cheap conversion.....

    Should I just forget it?
    Fixed gear for wet weather / hairy roadie for posing in the sun.

    What would Thora Hurd do?
  • Littigator
    Littigator Posts: 1,262
    lost_in_thought wrote:
    Right then, I've ordered the kool pads, thanks, and I will pay a visit to LBS man, and tell him about the hood-insert-brake-lever-lifty-things... which is also about as technical as I get... and we wonder why they laugh at us girls... :lol:

    LiT, if you wait until we have the next drinks I'll have a fiddle with your brakes (no sniggering at the back it was not an offer regarding rings or inches), see how they are after that with a lots less travel etc and then decide whether to change your levers.

    I've switched my pads, moved them closer to the rims and tightened up the cables and have a much better set up now than before.

    (cue me locking up the brakes on the way home and losing large amounts of skin.)
    Roadie FCN: 3

    Fixed FCN: 6
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    You can get lucky...

    your less serendipitous options include an ENO hub or that funky exccentric BB mount thingy they have on charlie the bikemonger
    Neeermad
    Carbon 456
    456 lefty
    Pompino
    White Inbred
  • Littigator
    Littigator Posts: 1,262
    Greg T wrote:
    Now here's a thing.....

    I've been in the shed stripping down my old Dawes road bike.

    I'm considering converting it to SS / F - however - it has vertical drop outs.

    I've seen other conversions that are fixed on vertical drop outs that don't use tensioners.

    Have I just got to hope that the ring sizes (gnurk etc) and the cogs fit "just right" with a chain length?

    Eccentric hubs are tres tres expensive and I'd have to have a wheel built - Suddenly I'm looking at 250 quid for a cheap conversion.....

    Should I just forget it?

    Greg

    Have you posted on the londonfgsggfsffgsfsfsgggfsfsf forum, we're a bit non-techie around here let's be honest but those chaps seem to be proper grease under the nails bikers!

    J
    Roadie FCN: 3

    Fixed FCN: 6

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