FAQ: increasing your base endurance/etc
dan.cavecp
Posts: 2,259
Regarding Training.
I'm starting off this post as I think we all have some really useful information to give to this forum.
If you have any papers/documents/training plans which fall into and distinctive topics please email me and I'll ad it to THIS post.
Also intended for Newbies who are after some definitive advice.
My first topic is :
1. Doing base mileage training/LSD/Aerobic Conditioning.
[url=mailto:[email protected]?Subject=LSDDOC]Click Here to send me an email[/url] for a copy of it.
100 Miles on a roadbike for Cancer Research.
If anyone has any other questions which happen to fall into this area, please post here to ask.
I'm starting off this post as I think we all have some really useful information to give to this forum.
If you have any papers/documents/training plans which fall into and distinctive topics please email me and I'll ad it to THIS post.
Also intended for Newbies who are after some definitive advice.
My first topic is :
1. Doing base mileage training/LSD/Aerobic Conditioning.
[url=mailto:[email protected]?Subject=LSDDOC]Click Here to send me an email[/url] for a copy of it.
100 Miles on a roadbike for Cancer Research.
If anyone has any other questions which happen to fall into this area, please post here to ask.
you just don\'t want to know what I had for tea last night..
0
Posts
steve, email me with your ideas! (and anyone else to boot!)
100 Miles on a roadbike for Cancer Research.
Visit the NEW Website!!
http://www.rideforcancer.co.uk/news.html
http://www.cyclingplus.co.uk/forum/topi ... hichpage=2
So far we've learnt who can and who can't (ride no-handed), and which bikes are easy or difficult (to go no-handed on). If you can't but want to, it will take time to master.
CONDITIONS:
1) Only practice on a traffic free smooth road.
2) Don't start at too slow a speed as the bike will be harder to control.
3) Avoid learning on windy days!
HERE WE GO:
1) Riding at a comfortable speed, change up a gear (ie cadence will be slower).
2) If you have drop handlebars, put your hands on the top (knuckles up).
3) Gently release your grip and lift your hands so that you're steering the bike with just a finger or two.
4) Practice keeping the bike going in a straight line by steering with your bottom.
5) One you're confident you can do 3 and 4 ok, let go with your fingers but keep your hands ready to grab the handlebars (like learning to ride, ice skate, etc., there will be a few wobbly moments!)
Peeling bananas is an advanced technique, as are junctions and roundabouts. We'll cover those another time.
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Oh, and i don't want to look like a complete censored when i hit the floor! [:D]
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I can trackstand but don't do it often, that'll be coz i'm not as good as it as i think i am though!!! [:D]
Oh, and i don't want to look like a complete censored when i hit the floor! [:D]
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Does that mean you do it with <u><b>both</b></u> cleats engaged? [:0]
Take care,
Steve.
Steve.
For training advice, nutrition, handling, and some medical tips, this site is an excellent resource
Scott
marty left 3
There are several tips that I have discovered which should help you with your climbing technique. When you hit the bottom of a hill that is going to last longer than 30 seconds;
1) Relax the upper body, don't grip the handlebars, just wrap your hands around them. Move your hands to the middle bars and bend the elbows slightly, if you need to you can move the hands out to open up the chest.
2) Don't get worked up by the hill, just relax, chill, mentally picture yourself on the decent afterwards. If you are concerned by the amount of tarmac at your eye level then don't look forwards, look just in front of your front wheel (but not in a group).
3) Use all of your lungs, make sure that you concentrate on exhaling and you will breath in naturally.
4) Shift into a gear which allows a cadence about 5-10 rpm lower than usual.
5) Pedal proper circles, your cadence should be sufficiently high that you can do it quite easily. If you pedal mash, you will keep on decelerating and then have to accelerate with each down stroke, which will waste lots of energy. A smooth pedalling action should see you gliding (only slightly less gracefully) up a hill.
6) Never stand up*(see note)
7) Once you hit the top don't slow down the tempo until you are at cruising speed past the top, otherwise you will slow down to a crawl and have to accelerate again.
8) On the decent after a long climb, make sure that you keep on turning the legs round, you don't need resistance, but it does help clear the legs of lactic acid.
*The only notable exceptions to this rule are i) stretching, ii) breaking away and iii) stopping falling off.
i) In this country, you shouldn't need to stand to stretch on climbs at all, this is only really intended for climbs that are 2 or more miles long. Alpine ascents are a good example of when to do this.
ii) You can accelerate when you stand up, but bear the following in mind; As soon as you stand up, your HR (heart rate) will increase by about 5 bpm (beats per minute). You will also start using your upper body. Therefore some of the energy that you would have used to turn the pedals goes into levering on the handlebars. When you sit back down you will also need to recover which will drop your speed considerably. Short gaps can be bridged on the drops, but larger gaps require use of the hoods.
iii) This is reserved for really steep climbs or moderate climbs with luggage. With a triple you should be able to manage anything (I will excuse people who go up Church Hill in Wales - 33%, not a typo and yes it can be done!), with a double, gradients of above 15% are worthy causes. I have been up a 20%er sitting down though, so it can be done.
If you do decide to stand though, make sure that you shift up a gear or two so that your cadence is about 20 rpm lower than normal cadence.
Further to point 6. strengthening arms and core can improve your ability to climb out the saddle, and hold the bike steadier to apply power to the pedals most efficiently. Some cyclists do upper body weights (like bench pressing) and core exercises (like pilates - One of the great things about Pilates is improved flexibility and core strength without increasing muscle mass) to allow them to do this better, although this has to be balanced with the weight of extra muscle mass gained to the upper body.
If you are doing a particularly long hill, you can shift position to accentuate different muscle groups. Moving forwards in the saddle and pointing the toes down uses the calf muscles more, moving back in the saddle and cycling with the heel pointing slightly down (or a level foot) will use the quads more. Mentally you can also pick a point to reach that is achievable, get there and pick another point. Don't focus on the whole hill, just bits at a time. Makes it a lot easier psychologically.
The way to improve climbing ability is either
- lose weight
- increase power
- increase ability to ride at threshold (perceived effort, "hard")
Losing weight can best be achieved from the body first, and then the bike next.
Increasing power can be achieved on the bike with strength exercises (big gear work) or gym work (e.g. leg presses, squats, leg curls)
Increasing your ability to ride at threshold can be achieved by climbing of course, or simply riding time trials. In such a controlled setting, TTs over 10 or 25 miles, you can become more aware of your limits before "blowing". This awareness of your aerobic limits can then be applied to your climbing. This is also good for people living in areas without long hills.
With thanks to everyone that helped from the C+ forum (especially Silky Pedals who wrote a large chunk!)
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Paul
I`ve watched you guys do this at traffic lights its truly amazing. Wish I could do it, have the odd problem with one foot on the deck. Having said that watched a rider on the London to Brighton attempt a track stand had a wobble fell off and took a stream of riders with him, wasnt very popluar when they all got untangled. I rode off with a smile on my face and through what a plunker.
where theres a hill some may have to walk
I'd add that the more you climb the easier it gets. Find a hill that's tough and ride it whenever you can. There's nothing quite like the feeling of getting to the top of a hill that you once considered tough and saying to yourself, "I think I'll go back down and do that again."
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Chisa, s'ok mate, he gets like that sometimes [:D]
Can we keep this stick post on TOPIC please!!!
don't wanna sound like a ***** but once i have got to the top of a hill there is NO WAY i would even consider going back down and doing it again.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I've just come back from a cycling hoiday in the French Alps. The usual photographer was on L'Alpe d'Huez and we got talking to him. He said that Jan Ullrich came up the alp once before the TdF. On one day alone, Lance went up and down it 5 times. I think that explains a lot.
Good advice on climbing.
I'd add that the more you climb the easier it gets. Find a hill that's tough and ride it whenever you can. There's nothing quite like the feeling of getting to the top of a hill that you once considered tough and saying to yourself, "I think I'll go back down and do that again."
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I took an HRM on a 4 week tour this summer to keep things nice and easy. It said I was using half the calories to climb at the end of the tour that I had needed at the start. Climbing makes you better at climbing.
First of all please see my post http://www.cyclingplus.co.uk/forum/topi ... C_ID=45446 for an explanation of why I use a granny ring. I am limited by my respiratory condition, but have improved quite a lot over the course of the last few months.
What I have found about climbing is
a) If I go onto the granny ring early, but into a fairly high (i.e small) rear gear, then it gives me the confidence to get up the hill, knowing I won't have to make a horrible clunky front change halfway up if my legs/lungs give out. I usually complete the climb in a gear broadly similar to the lowest on the middle ring, but knowing there are two or three more available is mentally comforting.
b) I much prefer sitting down and keeping a high cadence than standing up. My husband sets off out of the saddle in a high gear, and I tend to catch him up by the top or soon after, as he is too worn out to pedal away from the top and I'm not. So although I'm slower on the climb itself, I'm faster near the top and coming off it. And I stay aerobic, which is important, because I can't recover from anaerobic exercise as fast as others. My average speeds certainly seem to be better when I keep it aerobic and use the granny ring.
c) Lots of people tell me I shouldn't use the granny ring. But then I'd be trying to climb in a higher gear than the lowest on a double because my middle ring is 42, not 39.
The question is, am I doing it right? Or should I do as some people have advised me - use a higher gear, get up out of the saddle and make myself hurt? I'm not seeking to be competitive or anything, just get the most out of my cycling in terms of fitness, and perhaps increase my average speed so I can ride better with groups.
Cheers
<font size="1"><font color="blue"> <font color="red"><b>I need a great granny ring...</b></font id="red"></font id="size1"></font id="blue">
From what you say, you appear to be climbing fairly efficiently; nothing wrong with the granny gear if that's what you need to make the climbs achievable.
It's getting up there and enjoying the ride that matters, not beating yourself to a standstill; If you want to become quicker up the hills, or have more puff left at the top, then regular climbing is the way to do it (Gonzo gives some good tips earlier in the thread - the breathing out bit I have found particularly useful; it encourages you to use maximum lung capacity instead of breathing shallow & rapidly, therefore there is more oxygen intake with each breath). It also goes someway to ease the 'burn' if you are really working your socks off.
The other basic thing is to feel comfy with your position on the bike - if you are not comfortable, you'll waste effort fidgeting and probably losing your rhythm in the process
Oh, by the way, regular climbs doesn't have to mean hideously steep ones either, some of the long steady climbs require as much overall effort as the sharp rises. When it comes to long <i>and</i> steep climbs, if the road is quiet, I know some people who like to "weave" - an uphill version of traversing a ski slope if you know what I mean, but it won't make you popular in a group!
Good luck and keep at it.
Mac
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by amateur</i>
<font size="1">This Romeo is bleedin'
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASI ... 51-4710822
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Be warned - although the training part of this book is OK, the other 90% is patronising junk - unless you really need to know how to mend a puncture, that Lance likes chicken for breakfast, how to put your helmet on, or that roads get slippery when they are wet. Poorly written, lousy picutres, not engaging - how's that for a top review!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Gonzo</i>
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASI ... 51-4710822
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Be warned - although the training part of this book is OK, the other 90% is patronising junk - unless you really need to know how to mend a puncture, that Lance likes chicken for breakfast, how to put your helmet on, or that roads get slippery when they are wet. Poorly written, lousy picutres, not engaging - how's that for a top review!
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A very poor, inaccurate and excessively negative review, I'd have said. You won't make money at it.
Some bits of the book deal with things we already know. There is too much repetition. It says on the front 7 weeks to your perfect ride, talks up the 7 week program, delivers one, but then goes on to 4 and 9 week programs. Consistency would be nice. The point is, however, that the recommendations work. And work within the limitations posed by holding down a job.
You could get to the same place by detailed study of Ed Burke's Serious Cycling, and Chris Carmichael undoubtedly owes a debt to Dr Burke, but this book is far easier to digest, despite its short-comings.