Paris Olympics SPOILER Thread
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Toby Roberts assured a Silver medal at least. 🤞
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Nobody has topped it yet - did anyone top the semi route, I can't remember?
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Have to admit I was dubious about the climbing but have really enjoyed it. It really does test so many aspects of sport - strength, agility, flexibility, endurance with a bit of nerve, tactical nous and patience built in. Having only tried climbing once (with scouts on a very easy natural cliff) and freezing half way up I have no idea how they do it!
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Gold for GB, thought the Japanese guy had that nailed on.
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Oh man, Anraku was a move or two away from gold and didn't make it, he's been absurdly good this comp.
Roberts takes gold!
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Nope. No one tops the final either
Toby gets the gold
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I'll give her some tactical advice for free. What she wants to do is to run it as fast as she can. HTH.
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This is what the future of climbing looks like. 19 yr old beats 17 yr old. Six of the final eight were 22 or under.
Ondra and Schubert repping the grandpas at 31 and 33.
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Been hooked on it since the Tokyo games. Thank god they split the Speed Climbing off though.
Tomorrow will be the Janja Garnbret show. I do love to watch that woman climb.
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Yep definitely better as separate events. They really are completely different beats even to my untrained eye. Speed climbing seems more about using the holds to move vertically before gravity can take effect. Some of the moves they make in the sport climbing is crazy, the way the Japanese lad effectively did a somersault whilst holding on by his fingertips was incredible.
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Yeah, the climbing is definitely improved by splitting off the speed element. That one's weird anyway - it's apparently a standard course. Might as well be ladder climbing...
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Including speed in Tokyo was mad, like doing a combination of road race, mtb cross and then adding track sprint into it.
It's interesting to see British climbers coming through now, I think sport climbing was looked down upon from the strongly trad British climbing community for long while
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I do understand why it was combined in Tokyo. They were just trying to get a foot in the door. Now it is they've manage to point out to the authorities how dumb it was to be combined and so it's been split.
I think they'd like to split out Boulder and Lead as well (and possibly keep the combined) into seperate events.
For so many sports the Olympics can do so much for their profile. I'd of probably never seen a single minute if it hadn't turned up in Tokyo.
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Keeping the two events seems OK to me (again as someone who has never followed the sport). The bouldering and lead seem similar enough whilst just opening the field maybe. They do seem such short events that they could have individual as well though.
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Not too sure I agree with the BBC describing Toby's win as a "Shock". Sorato was favourite to be sure but it was hardly nailed on
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It still is TBH! The NGB is in a bit of a state, partly due to it having to now deal with Sport England funding for comp climbing. There is a movement to split comp climbing out into a separate NGB. Not sure whether it'll happen though
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Once again we're in the curious position where the random bloke on the internet tells the experienced elite athlete and her even more experienced coach that they are wrong. Love the internet. Without it, we just wouldn't encounter these people who know more than the pros.
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Feels unlikely, but so did victories for Alex Yee and Tom Pidcock. It's not over until it's over!
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If the BBC didn't have a pre-filmed montage of a winner then by definition it must be a "shock".
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Boulder and Lead will be split for Los Angeles I think, no idea if they'll also award a combined medal
They're really quite different and have been growing further apart in recent years. Bouldering has become extremely dynamic, with an emphasis on highly telegenic swings and jumps (parkour on a wall), while lead climbing remains highly technical and requires a huge amount of stamina.
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Sorato was moving really well (and qualified for the final even before he'd hit the lead wall, so well was his bouldering going) and came in as the favourite. Roberts was third at the halfway stage and would have been a bold bet for the gold. Even during the final climb Sorato looked utterly in control until that final moment of doubt - the hold wasn't what he was expecting, he tried to retreat and lost it.
We can argue semantics between shock and suprise, but it's certainly in that ballpark.
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I think you might be about 30 years out of date with the comment about Britain and Sport climbing. We had a couple of the first indoor lead world champions in Jerry Moffat and Simon Nadin.
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Not sure but he’s done Hubble and Batman so he can climb on something other than plastic.
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Good opener by Carlin
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Tight in the gold medal match but Lavreyson just too strong to be passed.
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Chaos time - madison
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But what do you mean, Rick?
Your intial claim was that tactics are irrelevant in multi-lane racing and that everyone should just aim to get from A to B as quickly as possibly, using even pacing.
Numerous counter-examples were provided of where people / crews / teams used tactics other than even pacing.
From this, it was concluded that if you're racing a faster opponent and you want to win, you have to try something, to try and force your opponent into a mistake, otherwise you'll ride and even pace to defeat.
No-one has claimed that using such tactics will always work!
I think Bol's tactics last night were somewhat unwise. There was never any realistic chance of her beating SML. (*) But she's already got a minor medal from the hurdles in Rio and a relay gold from last weekend, so you can see why she gave it a go.
(*) Per World Athletics' rankings, SML has three of the four highest ranked individual performances across all events amongst the ladies. The other one in the top four is Flo-Jo's 100m WR. SML is truly on a different planet.
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