That and they do exactly them same thing! I pull the lever, I stop. Good enough for me.
In your six rides, you presumably found no mud, mud and rim brakes means you pull lever, travel about 30feet while the pads get through the mud to the rim, then stop while the pads use the mud as a grinding paste to chew your rims up.
As has been said ad nausea, modern discs should need no maintenance. I suspect you have managed to make a hash of them (like your wheels) rather than them having an issue.
Been through plenty of mud on discs and rims. I'm still able to stop, it's really isn't a problem. It's not like I'm doing 160mph round the Nurburgring. If all else fails I still have the trusty foot-in-the-back-tyre 8)
I think some of you would have me believe the rim brakes were made out of marshmallows!
censored , I've been known to ride without brakes back in the day which resulted in no soles. Any sort will do.
Anyone care to cast their beedy expert eye on the two Claud Butler's on the previous page? (in the context of a cheapo bike of course!) and see what one is best?
In all seriousness Rubez, your best option would be the carbon forks from On One or Carbon cycles. Lots of people like rigid bikes.
In terms of the wheels, take them to a shop to get them repaired and trued (what on earth did you do to them?!)
For the brakes, just trust us on this one. Get them bled and set up properly at the shop. Then learn how to change pads etc yourself.
There's nothing wrong with liking the simpler things in life - loads of people like rigid and even single speed (freaks), even if your logic is very odd. Do the above and you will have a FAR better machine than buying something for £150.
fark, I've been known to ride without brakes back in the day which resulted in no soles. Any sort will do.
Anyone care to cast their beedy expert eye on the two Claud Butler's on the previous page? (in the context of a cheapo bike of course!) and see what one is best?
Thanks.
Of the two, I'd get the cheaper one based on the idea of parting with less money to get what you regard as the ideal sort of bike. But the previous post that suggests you fix what you've got is probably a better course of action
Fixing it up is a hassle, and I am not prepared to work with disc brakes, they are the biggest pile of censored I have ever seen, sorry. Also, frankly I am not prepared to go through the hassle of transporting a bike to a "LBS", then paying them cash to do I job I just able to do very simply myself with bog standard tools.
I think there is a 'LBS' committee that ensures new bikes are over-engineered, to take the ability to fix them easily out of the hands of normal people :shock:
I accept that my old bike would be better, but I'd counter that with I don't really care
I think there is a 'LBS' committee that ensures new bikes are over-engineered, to take the ability to fix them easily out of the hands of normal people :shock:
And yet, most 'normal' people on this forum seem quite capable of fixing most issues with their over engineered bikes.
All you hear over this forum is 'LBS this', and 'LBS that' - most of you are biking enthusiasts - not 'normal' people - and yet you still can't even fix your bikes without hauling it off to a dedicated shop!
Fixing it up is a hassle, and I am not prepared to work with disc brakes, they are the biggest pile of shoot I have ever seen, sorry. Also, frankly I am not prepared to go through the hassle of transporting a bike to a "LBS", then paying them cash to do I job I just able to do very simply myself with bog standard tools.
I think there is a 'LBS' committee that ensures new bikes are over-engineered, to take the ability to fix them easily out of the hands of normal people :shock:
I accept that my old bike would be better, but I'd counter that with I don't really care
Now, who wants a frame?
You vs millions of happy disc brake users hey? And you're not prepared to pay a bike shop 20 quid to true your wheels and bleed your brakes, yet you are prepared to p1ss money up the wall selling yours and buying a far worse bike?
Why come on here for advice when you have no intention of listening to it?
You are imposing stuff I explicitly said I don't want. When someone asks for advice within parameters, you don't go outwith those parameters simply 'because you know best'.
I don't want disc brakes, that was a primary stipulation - yet you proceed to recommend disc brakes?! Are you deaf or stupid?! :shock:
And the wheels are bent out of shape severely, even if they could be fixed, I don't trust them. They were shown a couple of bumps and they've wilted like a flower... useless!
I think you are saying you have discs but don't want them anymore - fair enough. But will your frame take rim brakes? Most modern MTBs don't - no brake bosses for them. If this is the case then you'll need to sell your bike and buy new (as stated early I'd be looking at Vitus bikes from CRC). The Rigid bit is easy to sort out though.
'Happiness serves hardly any other purpose than to make unhappiness possible' Marcel Proust.
All you hear over this forum is 'LBS this', and 'LBS that' - most of you are biking enthusiasts - not 'normal' people - and yet you still can't even fix your bikes without hauling it off to a dedicated shop!
Actually you'll see people referred to Sheldon Brown or Parktools more.
What have you done to your discs that ruined them and we'll tell you how to fix them, or just use the wheel in the back tyre as you say you will when your rim brakes fail you due to muddy lubricant!
I do almost all my own work, the only thing I use the LBS for is cleaning up the BB thread and facing as the tool costs about £400 and I'd need them to do the job 40 times before I got to break even!
I would need a new front and back wheel, new pads and front rigid fork. Probably cost more than a cheap rigid MTB.
Couldn't get the oil pressure high enough for decent stopping power... is there a better method than that lame censored squeezy bottle?!
Also when you take the wheel off the bike, the pads jam together and you can't get the wheel back on! (not even pressed the brake) WTF is that all about!
My hydraulic brakes were probably low budget ones, do they get any better? (stroke ryder or something they were)
Do new brakes come pressurised, or do you need to put the oil in them?
In fact, censored it. Never mind the work involved, the price is way beyond a brand new bike - just shows how much you get ripped off on parts. Not worth repairing, thanks anyway.
Could just as easily get some forks for £40, some new wheels for £50 and replace the hydraulics with mechanicals for another £40 (considerably less if you go second hand). Works out cheaper and gives you a better bike than any of the ones you linked to.
Don't need much in the way of tools other than a Junior hacksaw, allen keys and some cable cutters.
look, its a decent bike. Not amazing, but decent. You'll prob get a 2-3 hundred quid off ebay for the whole thing, depending age, exact model and condition. Then use the money to buy a worse bike.
sigh...
btw - will prob be cheaper and easier to sell as whole and buy as whole, rather than just try to swap the frame.
When I said who wants a frame, I didn't mean for free
How much do you think I could get for it off ebay or something?
The rest of the parts will be junked.
So, you're going to go to the trouble of taking everything off the frame, bin the parts, sell the frame for less than you might get with all the parts on it, then use the money to buy a worse bike than you already had? Smart.
Another option is to part ex at a bike shop - a few old school LBS still do this & I noticed leisure lakes have some used bikes (I guess from part ex'ing).
I still think just e-bay the bike as is is probably your best bet though in financial terms - you'll be surprised what people will pay.
'Happiness serves hardly any other purpose than to make unhappiness possible' Marcel Proust.
Both wheels are censored , brakes are worthless. I would keep the seat.
Handle bars, crank and gears are good I guess.
Could be the basis for a project or something.
"then use the money to buy a worse bike than you already had?" That's a fallacy. I would need to spend money no matter what I chose to do.
The bike I have is not in working order. I'd have to spend to get it back running again - or I could just get a new bike that meets my requirements better, and cut out all the hassle of rebuilding the old bike.
I don't care about a heavier frame, in fact I prefer it.
We're all still waiting hear what you did to kill a decent bike beyond salvage in just 6 rides. What kind of crazy rides did you do? Or do you weight 36 stone?
11 stone, didn't do anything out the ordinary as far as I'm concerned.
Do hydraulic disc brakes come prefilled with oil? - and some kind of spacer to stop the pads from jamming together in transit? Or do you need to fill them up yourself?
Posts
Don't be silly? Why wouldn't you want a heavy bike? Think of all that extra control....
I just need a simple, robust bike. What's wrong with that?
All these sneering purists... sheesh.
Been through plenty of mud on discs and rims. I'm still able to stop, it's really isn't a problem. It's not like I'm doing 160mph round the Nurburgring. If all else fails I still have the trusty foot-in-the-back-tyre 8)
I think some of you would have me believe the rim brakes were made out of marshmallows!
Nothing. It's your nutty and ill-informed reasoning that's in question.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12994607
Anyone care to cast their beedy expert eye on the two Claud Butler's on the previous page? (in the context of a cheapo bike of course!) and see what one is best?
Thanks.
In terms of the wheels, take them to a shop to get them repaired and trued (what on earth did you do to them?!)
For the brakes, just trust us on this one. Get them bled and set up properly at the shop. Then learn how to change pads etc yourself.
There's nothing wrong with liking the simpler things in life - loads of people like rigid and even single speed (freaks), even if your logic is very odd. Do the above and you will have a FAR better machine than buying something for £150.
Of the two, I'd get the cheaper one based on the idea of parting with less money to get what you regard as the ideal sort of bike. But the previous post that suggests you fix what you've got is probably a better course of action
XM-057 rigid 29er
I think there is a 'LBS' committee that ensures new bikes are over-engineered, to take the ability to fix them easily out of the hands of normal people :shock:
I accept that my old bike would be better, but I'd counter that with I don't really care
Now, who wants a frame?
And yet, most 'normal' people on this forum seem quite capable of fixing most issues with their over engineered bikes.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12994607
You vs millions of happy disc brake users hey? And you're not prepared to pay a bike shop 20 quid to true your wheels and bleed your brakes, yet you are prepared to p1ss money up the wall selling yours and buying a far worse bike?
Why come on here for advice when you have no intention of listening to it?
We tried but you are obviously a moron. I'm out.
Duster
My Bianchi
You are imposing stuff I explicitly said I don't want. When someone asks for advice within parameters, you don't go outwith those parameters simply 'because you know best'.
I don't want disc brakes, that was a primary stipulation - yet you proceed to recommend disc brakes?! Are you deaf or stupid?! :shock:
And the wheels are bent out of shape severely, even if they could be fixed, I don't trust them. They were shown a couple of bumps and they've wilted like a flower... useless!
What have you done to your discs that ruined them and we'll tell you how to fix them, or just use the wheel in the back tyre as you say you will when your rim brakes fail you due to muddy lubricant!
I do almost all my own work, the only thing I use the LBS for is cleaning up the BB thread and facing as the tool costs about £400 and I'd need them to do the job 40 times before I got to break even!
retired 9.6kg Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail combined thread - come on all you Carrera's!
The Sons Scott Genius RC20 build
I would need a new front and back wheel, new pads and front rigid fork. Probably cost more than a cheap rigid MTB.
Couldn't get the oil pressure high enough for decent stopping power... is there a better method than that lame censored squeezy bottle?!
Also when you take the wheel off the bike, the pads jam together and you can't get the wheel back on! (not even pressed the brake) WTF is that all about!
My hydraulic brakes were probably low budget ones, do they get any better? (stroke ryder or something they were)
Do new brakes come pressurised, or do you need to put the oil in them?
Just gonna junk the peice of guff.
suspect there will be a kind hearted soul on here who would take it off your hands to save you the trouble of going to the tip.
Don't need much in the way of tools other than a Junior hacksaw, allen keys and some cable cutters.
I'll pay the postage to take it off your hands.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12994607
How much do you think I could get for it off ebay or something?
The rest of the parts will be junked.
sigh...
btw - will prob be cheaper and easier to sell as whole and buy as whole, rather than just try to swap the frame.
So, you're going to go to the trouble of taking everything off the frame, bin the parts, sell the frame for less than you might get with all the parts on it, then use the money to buy a worse bike than you already had? Smart.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12994607
I still think just e-bay the bike as is is probably your best bet though in financial terms - you'll be surprised what people will pay.
Handle bars, crank and gears are good I guess.
Could be the basis for a project or something.
"then use the money to buy a worse bike than you already had?" That's a fallacy. I would need to spend money no matter what I chose to do.
The bike I have is not in working order. I'd have to spend to get it back running again - or I could just get a new bike that meets my requirements better, and cut out all the hassle of rebuilding the old bike.
I don't care about a heavier frame, in fact I prefer it.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12994607
Do hydraulic disc brakes come prefilled with oil? - and some kind of spacer to stop the pads from jamming together in transit? Or do you need to fill them up yourself?
some come with a spacer, otherwise just use some cardboard.
Shall we lock this thread as it's clear you've made your mind up.