Fully rigid MTB
Comments
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Ok, sounds do-able.
Can always file it down some more if I am still hitting the SFN.
Parktools/sheldonbrown... I read over the parktools section for forks. I was wanting a more human, understandable answer, since I am coming from a point of knowing nothing about the technical details.
I will follow the guide when I am actually operating, and got the bike in bits, then I'm sure it will make more sense. For now it is more like mumbo jumbo0 -
Don't forget to post pictures0
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97th choice wrote:Don't forget to post pictures
Lol!All the gear, no idea and loving the smell of jealousy in the morning.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=129946070 -
97th choice wrote:Don't forget to post pictures
In this thread I'd like to have seen some "before" pictures - I've a sneaking suspicion the destruction isn't that bad.
Funnily enough and getting all the way back to the OP's original post, I saw a very smart and shiny fully rigid MTB last night - it was a Trek, and the rigid fork wasn't holding it back on the trail.Specialized Roubaix Elite 2015
XM-057 rigid 29er0 -
The wheels I have now take the centre lock rotors, so I'm thinking these will be fine.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-rt54-centre-lock-disc-rotor/rp-prod117205
Can I use the same nut I used to remove the cassette, to put the rotors on the wheel?0 -
And by nut you mean tool.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
cooldad wrote:And by nut you mean tool.
Clever...All the gear, no idea and loving the smell of jealousy in the morning.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=129946070 -
This is my favorite thread ever! rubez I really think your threads should be moved to the crudcatcher, they're that good. Keep up the good work.0
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rubez wrote:The wheels I have now take the centre lock rotors, so I'm thinking these will be fine.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-rt54-centre-lock-disc-rotor/rp-prod117205
Can I use the same nut I used to remove the cassette, to put the rotors on the wheel?
If they are the original Alex rims wheels on your cube analog they aren't centre lock, they are 6 bolt for the brake rotors, I had one and it's a good solid bike, even if it's a little low tech, can't see how you've done that much damage to one.
Think pictures of the damage are needed0 -
Antm81 wrote:rubez wrote:The wheels I have now take the centre lock rotors, so I'm thinking these will be fine.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-rt54-centre-lock-disc-rotor/rp-prod117205
Can I use the same nut I used to remove the cassette, to put the rotors on the wheel?
If they are the original Alex rims wheels on your cube analog they aren't centre lock, they are 6 bolt for the brake rotors, I had one and it's a good solid bike, even if it's a little low tech, can't see how you've done that much damage to one.
Think pictures of the damage are neededI don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Right so, I need a fully rigid V-brake bike again.
Done the Cube up and it sold off... apart from anything else, I want a smaller frame. The thing is unwieldy, even if I went down the road of replacing the forks.
I am looking for full rigid, V-brakes and a 17" frame... pretty rare these days I think.
I just want to check I can't do any better than this (for the money) - I have preordered it elsewhere for £200, only problem is it isn't out on a 17" until the middle of May at the earliest. I'd be surprised if I could any anything better for £200 - but I am disappointed about the delay.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_1031938_langId_-1_categoryId_165499
What you think, stick with the pre-order?0 -
Rubez, you're back. Just what everybody needs on a dull Monday afternoon. That bike seems great for your intended use of breaking it, moan about it, change everything about it, then spend a load of cash on it and then finally selling it on. Good choice!!Commencal Ramones Cromo 13 - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=129269380
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brucie45 wrote:Rubez, you're back. Just what everybody needs on a dull Monday afternoon. That bike seems great for your intended use of breaking it, moan about it, change everything about it, then spend a load of cash on it and then finally selling it on. Good choice!!
Don't forget how much more control he'll have as his wheels ricochet off rocks and boulders.All the gear, no idea and loving the smell of jealousy in the morning.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=129946070 -
This thread if fkin amazing. The amount of "misguidedness" is unbelievable
Rubez, if you want a full rigid bike with V brakes, then bag yourself a Carrera Subway if you want to get one quickly
Sod that Halfords Raleigh.
This is what i would do:
Do your research, find out what you actually want, what frames would be good for you, what are the best components for what you want and your price range and stuff like that...
Then get yourself a good 2nd hand frame off eBay, Find an ideal rigid fork for it from carbon cycles or similar. (you dont need to get suspension corrected forks, but its best to do that to keep the geometry of your frame as it should be) I know you like your "control" (lol) so having a slightly shorter fork will sharpen the front end up.
Now that you have a frame and fork sorted out, go about collecting the rest of your bits and bobs. Maybe have a look at a brand new groupset that comes without disc brakes (or you can get them with and sell the disc brakes off for a bit of cash). By groupset i mean something like this. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/grou ... t=pricelow
If you are going for budget wheels which i noticed you talking about earlier, eBay might be a good idea. You can find shops that sell cheap wheels brand new (im using a set at the moment and are totally fine for XC). And obviously you can get a cheap 2nd hand set.
I also ride a rigid bike at the moment. You might want to have a look at my Chucker thread in my signature link to see how mine is. I did mine on a tight-ish budget.
Hope this helps...0 -
Angus Young wrote:brucie45 wrote:Rubez, you're back. Just what everybody needs on a dull Monday afternoon. That bike seems great for your intended use of breaking it, moan about it, change everything about it, then spend a load of cash on it and then finally selling it on. Good choice!!
Don't forget how much more control he'll have as his wheels ricochet of rocks and boulders.
16kg of awesomeness that bike, he'll just smash through the rocks.0 -
97th choice wrote:16kg of awesomeness that bike, he'll just smash through the rocks.
Wow. Must be made of anvils.All the gear, no idea and loving the smell of jealousy in the morning.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=129946070 -
GT-Arrowhead wrote:This thread if fkin amazing. The amount of "misguidedness" is unbelievable
Rubez, if you want a full rigid bike with V brakes, then bag yourself a Carrera Subway if you want to get one quickly
Sod that Halfords Raleigh.
This is what i would do:
Do your research, find out what you actually want, what frames would be good for you, what are the best components for what you want and your price range and stuff like that...
Then get yourself a good 2nd hand frame off eBay, Find an ideal rigid fork for it from carbon cycles or similar. (you dont need to get suspension corrected forks, but its best to do that to keep the geometry of your frame as it should be) I know you like your "control" (lol) so having a slightly shorter fork will sharpen the front end up.
Now that you have a frame and fork sorted out, go about collecting the rest of your bits and bobs. Maybe have a look at a brand new groupset that comes without disc brakes (or you can get them with and sell the disc brakes off for a bit of cash). By groupset i mean something like this. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/grou ... t=pricelow
If you are going for budget wheels which i noticed you talking about earlier, eBay might be a good idea. You can find shops that sell cheap wheels brand new (im using a set at the moment and are totally fine for XC). And obviously you can get a cheap 2nd hand set.
I also ride a rigid bike at the moment. You might want to have a look at my Chucker thread in my signature link to see how mine is. I did mine on a tight-ish budget.
Hope this helps...
I think you maybe waisting your time there GT, what you say is perfectly good advice, but its wasted on RubezCommencal Ramones Cromo 13 - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=129269380 -
I know it seems unbelievable, but I just want to drop £200 on a rigid bike that goes and be done with it. I'm not going to construct one. I may change the wheels to Mavic's, that's it.
You probably all drive crappy "A-B" type motors, I don't laugh at them - gets the job done - same with this bike.0 -
buy a single speed vitus then.0
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Go get a used Carrera Subway, circa £100-120 for V-braked models, very tough, rigid and pretty bombproof including the perfectly functional Formula wheels. Uses the same frame as the mountain bikes and also basically the same wheels.
Come back when you want to make it more comfortable and stop better when it's muddy.
Our family have no crappy A-B motors, none of the 6 is 'normal'!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Not gonna get a second hand one with wear and tear already built-in.
Why would anyone want to make their MTB comfortable?! That's kinda against the whole point.0 -
Right. Because the point of mountain biking is to be uncomfortable. You should take up climbing - we wear our shoes two sizes too small. Should be right up your street.All the gear, no idea and loving the smell of jealousy in the morning.
Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=129946070 -
That's not the point in it, but it certainly isn't a comfortable activity, is it?
You afraid of getting muddy too?0 -
rubez wrote:Not gonna get a second hand one with wear and tear already built-in.
Why would anyone want to make their MTB comfortable?! That's kinda against the whole point.
Ey? The point of mountain biking is that its supposed to be enjoyable and a way of staying/keeping fit. Not to be uncomfortable.
Mountain biking shouldnt be uncomfortable unless you have the setup of your bike wrong for you, or having the wrong bike for the job. Like going through a rock garden on that Halfords Raleigh with the tyres at 50 PSI.0 -
rubez wrote:I know it seems unbelievable, but I just want to drop £200 on a rigid bike that goes and be done with it. I'm not going to construct one. I may change the wheels to Mavic's, that's it.
You probably all drive crappy "A-B" type motors, I don't laugh at them - gets the job done - same with this bike.
Why may you change the wheels to mavics?Commencal Ramones Cromo 13 - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=129269380 -
he doesn't intend to, it's just to get comments back.
He lives under a bridge and is in fear of big male goats with deep voices.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
This all makes no sense.
That's the answer you were hoping for right, rubez?0 -
Better looking, stronger.
Deez ones, in black:
http://www.merlincycles.com/pair-handbuilt-wheels-26-non-disc-48983.html0 -
Ok, I'll give you your model answer
So your upgrading your wheels for aesthetics, after saying you're buying a cheap bike for a-b purposes.
Said wheels cost £100, half the price of your whole bike...
Poor effort rubez.0