Olympics All Format Spoiler Thread

kingstongraham

andyp said:

hypster said:

Presumably if Denmark had been allowed to cheat again and use their illegal kit they would have beaten Italy?

How come when Team GB push the rules to their limits (and beyond) it's fine, but if anyone else does the same, it's cheating?

Do you really think a bit of medical tape was the reason Denmark were three seconds faster than the British quartet?

Only needed 0.2 seconds to beat Italy.

If it was legal and might have got them 0.1%, they should have gone for it. Or at least saved its one permitted use until the gold medal ride.

gsk82

How the hell do I watch the full final online?

Edit: finally found it on iPlayer

blazing_saddles

Pross said:

daniel_b said:

poweredbyidris said:

UCI have tweeted that it's DEN vs. ITA in the final

Would appear it is not yet decided - maybe another appeal.

Regrettably, if you google for the latest on the result, both the daily hatemail, and the express (Where truth goes to die) have articles on the knee plaster bits, and the danes swearing at tanfield - nice bit of xenophobic content for them, bet they had multiple journalists on standby to try and find it as soon as it happened.

Irony is that if the likes of the Mail had left BC to do their job instead of undertaking internal witch hunts for the past 5 years the team may not have been struggling to compete.

Ain't that the truth, not that they would ever admit to any blame or responsibility.
This more caring regime, elevating athlete's feelings over focusing on results seems to have ultimately made the athlete's not winning their usual golds...................less happy.

I haven't had much time, so but for the incident and the team pursuit final, I haven't bothered to watch.
Makes me both sad and angry in equal measure.

jimmyjams

No_Ta_Doctor said:

jimmyjams said:

No_Ta_Doctor said:

They were only given space for 2 climbing medals, which is why they invented combined. The climbers aren't happy about it at all, because they regard speed climbing as something completely separate. Nobody makes the cross from lead/boulder to speed or vice versa. It's pretty much like asking 100m sprinters to do high jump.

The overall combination idea was started nearly a decade ago at Climbing World Championships, so wasn't 'invented' just for these Olympics.
But yes, many climbers have felt the combination was wrong because of including speed climbing; the comparison I've heard was asking a 100 m sprinter to do a 1500 m race, and vice-versa.
However at Paris in 2024, speed climbing will be separated from bouldering and lead-climbing, so will be a separate competition with its own medals.

The speed climbers will be pleased with that, because at the Climbing World Championships over the last decade, I don't think any of them have ever been on the overall combination podium. In the men's competition, it has mostly been someone who is a top lead-climber and a good boulderer who won, and in the women's competition the reverse.
Duffy, who at the moment is I think third, is therefore maybe looking a good bet (although I'd say 6 of the 8 finalists stand a chance). And of the women, Janja Garnbret should be favourite.

This video shows Garnbret going up the chimney at Trbovlje Power Station in Slovenia (from where she comes), yes another top athlete from Slovenia!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=bpDymGNQy_I

Cheers. Any climbers thinking of popping over to Copenhagen for the TdF next year might want to have a peek at this 82m wall



https://www.dbkk.dk/amagernordvaeg/vaeggen

Think its a club membership with qualification to actually climb it though

Very impressive - all those climbing wall grips add a nice colourful touch to the building!

I can' t read Danish but the link seems to say the routes are between F5a and F7b+, however looking at the facade on the photo I imagine that means they vary between those grades along their lengths, not that there is a route all the way at F5a (otherwise I would be able to get up it!)

Those grades are according to the French grading system. What the women at the Olympics were doing today would be 8a/8b by the French system, 10- by the UIAA system*. So they would have scampered up that building (lightly said - not all sport climbers have the stamina for long climbs).

* I've never understood why there isn't a universal system – France, the USA and GB all have different grading systems from the UIAA = International Climbing Association. But why?

ddraver

I kinda assumed everyone had gone to the US system post Free Solo

webboo

jimmyjams said:

No_Ta_Doctor said:

jimmyjams said:

No_Ta_Doctor said:

They were only given space for 2 climbing medals, which is why they invented combined. The climbers aren't happy about it at all, because they regard speed climbing as something completely separate. Nobody makes the cross from lead/boulder to speed or vice versa. It's pretty much like asking 100m sprinters to do high jump.

The overall combination idea was started nearly a decade ago at Climbing World Championships, so wasn't 'invented' just for these Olympics.
But yes, many climbers have felt the combination was wrong because of including speed climbing; the comparison I've heard was asking a 100 m sprinter to do a 1500 m race, and vice-versa.
However at Paris in 2024, speed climbing will be separated from bouldering and lead-climbing, so will be a separate competition with its own medals.

The speed climbers will be pleased with that, because at the Climbing World Championships over the last decade, I don't think any of them have ever been on the overall combination podium. In the men's competition, it has mostly been someone who is a top lead-climber and a good boulderer who won, and in the women's competition the reverse.
Duffy, who at the moment is I think third, is therefore maybe looking a good bet (although I'd say 6 of the 8 finalists stand a chance). And of the women, Janja Garnbret should be favourite.

This video shows Garnbret going up the chimney at Trbovlje Power Station in Slovenia (from where she comes), yes another top athlete from Slovenia!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=bpDymGNQy_I

Cheers. Any climbers thinking of popping over to Copenhagen for the TdF next year might want to have a peek at this 82m wall



https://www.dbkk.dk/amagernordvaeg/vaeggen

Think its a club membership with qualification to actually climb it though

Very impressive - all those climbing wall grips add a nice colourful touch to the building!

I can' t read Danish but the link seems to say the routes are between F5a and F7b+, however looking at the facade on the photo I imagine that means they vary between those grades along their lengths, not that there is a route all the way at F5a (otherwise I would be able to get up it!)

Those grades are according to the French grading system. What the women at the Olympics were doing today would be 8a/8b by the French system, 10- by the UIAA system*. So they would have scampered up that building (lightly said - not all sport climbers have the stamina for long climbs).

* I've never understood why there isn't a universal system – France, the USA and GB all have different grading systems from the UIAA = International Climbing Association. But why?

Why couldn’t there be a 5+ all you need are plenty of big holds. Also there looks be several ledges on it as well as slabby bits.
The only people who use the UIAA grading system are the Germans, the rest of Europe including the UK use French grades for sport climbing. Also we use Fontainebleau (French) grades for bouldering in the UK as well.

jimmyjams

Lanterne_Rogue said:

Women's climbing has been fun so far. Garnbret of Slovenia made the bouldering look ridiculously easy by flashing everything. Was probably a good thing loads of other people had been given the chance to mess it up first, otherwise it wouldn't have been obvious just how ridiculous her performance was as she was doing it.

Usually the boulders/lead-climbing routes are set up with the idea that only one will fully succeed and reach the top, so had Garnbret gone first, I don't think that would have particularly inhibited the others, maybe instead incited them to try and equal her (although I think info between competitors is very restricted - to avoid tips, so would also include no info about performances by earlier competitors)
Bouldering is Garnbret's best discipline but, although she's good at lead-climbing too, your favourite name Seo (and 1 or 2 others) could beat her in the finals if she is not careful or she is too blase.

What I found not so good, however, was that the same starting order was used for all three disciplines. In sports I've done, I rarely think being first-off is good, but they had the same starting order for each climbing discipline. There may have been reasons like similar recuperation time, but I think a reshuffle each time would have been better (with then a longer gap between disciplines, should someone who was one of the last in one discipline then be called to be one of the first in the next).

webboo

Normally the crowd play a big part in the lead climbing as the cheering lets the climber know how well they are doing against the others.

ddraver

Some Anglo-Oranje bitchyness....

https://www.independent.co.uk/sport/olympics/team-gb-netherlands-hockey-tokyo-2020-b1896727.html

Dutchies rather won that battle tho

RichN95.

ddraver said:

Some Anglo-Oranje bitchyness....

https://www.independent.co.uk/sport/olympics/team-gb-netherlands-hockey-tokyo-2020-b1896727.html

Dutchies rather won that battle tho

All the charm, tact and politeness that the Dutch pride themselves on.

tailwindhome

Bradley Walsh did one of those 'travelling with my son' shows. They did one of those climbing wall in Holland (I think)

Actually quite touching watching him overcome fear to make it to the top.

Not if there was a million pound waiting at the top could I do it.

No_Ta_Doctor

jimmyjams said:

No_Ta_Doctor said:

jimmyjams said:

No_Ta_Doctor said:

They were only given space for 2 climbing medals, which is why they invented combined. The climbers aren't happy about it at all, because they regard speed climbing as something completely separate. Nobody makes the cross from lead/boulder to speed or vice versa. It's pretty much like asking 100m sprinters to do high jump.

The overall combination idea was started nearly a decade ago at Climbing World Championships, so wasn't 'invented' just for these Olympics.
But yes, many climbers have felt the combination was wrong because of including speed climbing; the comparison I've heard was asking a 100 m sprinter to do a 1500 m race, and vice-versa.
However at Paris in 2024, speed climbing will be separated from bouldering and lead-climbing, so will be a separate competition with its own medals.

The speed climbers will be pleased with that, because at the Climbing World Championships over the last decade, I don't think any of them have ever been on the overall combination podium. In the men's competition, it has mostly been someone who is a top lead-climber and a good boulderer who won, and in the women's competition the reverse.
Duffy, who at the moment is I think third, is therefore maybe looking a good bet (although I'd say 6 of the 8 finalists stand a chance). And of the women, Janja Garnbret should be favourite.

This video shows Garnbret going up the chimney at Trbovlje Power Station in Slovenia (from where she comes), yes another top athlete from Slovenia!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=bpDymGNQy_I

Cheers. Any climbers thinking of popping over to Copenhagen for the TdF next year might want to have a peek at this 82m wall



https://www.dbkk.dk/amagernordvaeg/vaeggen

Think its a club membership with qualification to actually climb it though

Very impressive - all those climbing wall grips add a nice colourful touch to the building!

I can' t read Danish but the link seems to say the routes are between F5a and F7b+, however looking at the facade on the photo I imagine that means they vary between those grades along their lengths, not that there is a route all the way at F5a (otherwise I would be able to get up it!)

Those grades are according to the French grading system. What the women at the Olympics were doing today would be 8a/8b by the French system, 10- by the UIAA system*. So they would have scampered up that building (lightly said - not all sport climbers have the stamina for long climbs).

* I've never understood why there isn't a universal system – France, the USA and GB all have different grading systems from the UIAA = International Climbing Association. But why?

It says there are currently 10 routes, from F5a to F7b+, so I'd assume the grade would follow the crux grade of each route - in Danish it certainly reads like that.

RichN95.

This is very good. The end of the men's pursuit with various Eurosport commentators for different countries.

Allergy warning: This clip may contain traces of Kirby

https://twitter.com/Eurosport_IT/status/1422958211745947652

RichN95.

If this was a multi sport forum I would start a thread "Is Sky Brown finished?" - beaten by the new generation - a 12 year old.

Lanterne_Rogue

With regards to climbing grades, the UK system is different because it's not designed for sport climbing with bolted protection (where the difficulty is all that counts) but for climbing with removable protection that is sometimes hard to contrive. It's basically a mixture of how hard something is along with how easy it is to look after yourself.

After a while it dawned on everyone that adding a technical grade for the hardest bit made it much easier to understand what the climb was like, so a Very Severe (VS) 4a is both less technical and less protected than a VS 5b. The absolute high point of this grading system was a rusty old ladder to access the bottom of a climb in Anglesey which earnt itself the ludicrous (and tongue in cheek) grading of HVS 1a.

ddraver

Den: ......

ITA: Yay Italy!!!!

Everyone else: Ganna! Ganna! Ganna! Ganna! Incredible Ganna! Amazing Filippo! etc

😂🤣😂

m.r.m.

It's insane how much stronger Ganna was to everyone else. Incredible ride. Would love to see him give Paris-Roubaix & Flanders a proper go over the next few years.

tailwindhome

tailwindhome said:

Bradley Walsh did one of those 'travelling with my son' shows. They did one of those climbing wall in Holland (I think)

Actually quite touching watching him overcome fear to make it to the top.

Not if there was a million pound waiting at the top could I do it.

Clip here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrxGf_7i-uc

Tallest climbing wall in the world apparently

mrb123

tailwindhome said:

tailwindhome said:

Bradley Walsh did one of those 'travelling with my son' shows. They did one of those climbing wall in Holland (I think)

Actually quite touching watching him overcome fear to make it to the top.

Not if there was a million pound waiting at the top could I do it.

Clip here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrxGf_7i-uc

Tallest climbing wall in the world apparently

https://youtu.be/_LUGxIIoQes

tailwindhome

Dutch one maybe tallest 'freestanding' wall.. Dunno... But I know I couldn't get up it.

kingstongraham

British bikes do attract crashes, it seems.

Dorset_Boy

kingstongraham said:

British bikes do attract crashes, it seems.

Dutchie touched wheel in front and crashed into Katie Marchant in the Kieren.

Jason Kenny lost his first match sprint but won in the repechage.

webboo

Lanterne_Rogue said:

With regards to climbing grades, the UK system is different because it's not designed for sport climbing with bolted protection (where the difficulty is all that counts) but for climbing with removable protection that is sometimes hard to contrive. It's basically a mixture of how hard something is along with how easy it is to look after yourself.

After a while it dawned on everyone that adding a technical grade for the hardest bit made it much easier to understand what the climb was like, so a Very Severe (VS) 4a is both less technical and less protected than a VS 5b. The absolute high point of this grading system was a rusty old ladder to access the bottom of a climb in Anglesey which earnt itself the ludicrous (and tongue in cheek) grading of HVS 1a.

As I posted early in this thread in the UK we use the French grading system for sports climbs.
Sport climbs are routes that have fixed bolts in them. The other UK grading system is for traditional climbs where you place your own protection as you climb up the route.
Sports climbs are not acceptable on all cliffs and as general rule of the thumb they tend to be on Limestone.

JimD666

One of the many things I don't get about the rules and regs in cycling. Deviate off your line by a few cm's? Relegated. Cause a crash? Tough luck on whoever you take out.

Dorset_Boy

Jason Kenny out of the srint in QF, losing to reigning WC.

salsiccia1

Is it only best of three in the semis and final?

Edit: ignore that, it's just the way BBC live text is reporting it

N0bodyOfTheGoat

salsiccia1 said:

Is it only best of three in the semis and final?

No, quarters too, 0925ish next one.

salsiccia1

N0bodyOfTheGoat said:

salsiccia1 said:

Is it only best of three in the semis and final?

No, quarters too, 0925ish next one.

Cheers

Ben6899

RichN95. said:

ddraver said:

Some Anglo-Oranje bitchyness....

https://www.independent.co.uk/sport/olympics/team-gb-netherlands-hockey-tokyo-2020-b1896727.html

Dutchies rather won that battle tho

All the charm, tact and politeness that the Dutch pride themselves on.

Yeh, we know the Dutch are a class act. We've seen it repeatedly, over the years, in football, cycling... oh wait.

poweredbyidris

Feel like the Keirin's lost something with the new derny rules. used to love them hurtling around behind the bike, now it seems a bit more pedestrian