Planet X Kaffenback

EKE_38BPM

rubertoe wrote:

haywire wrote:

So you've committed the same bike-photography sins as me. Looks good - what wheels are they?

If i am not mistaken, they are the same wheels run by most other commuters, H Plus Sons Archtype rims on novatech hubs Hand built by Ugo.

Can you see the hubs from that picture?

I dropped a bomb in the Boardman CX thread and hardly got a bite. I guess they have realised that they all bought the wrong bike and are too depressed to try to put up a good argument. Poor things.

rubertoe

EKE_38BPM wrote:

rubertoe wrote:

haywire wrote:

So you've committed the same bike-photography sins as me. Looks good - what wheels are they?

If i am not mistaken, they are the same wheels run by most other commuters, H Plus Sons Archtype rims on novatech hubs Hand built by Ugo.

Can you see the hubs from that picture?

I dropped a bomb in the Boardman CX thread and hardly got a bite. I guess they have realised that they all bought the wrong bike and are too depressed to try to put up a good argument. Poor things.

I was guessing at the hubs....
I bet I am right though

What I described is what I will go for, either that or open pro's.

I know about the Boardmans, we may have to go back in to cause more havok see if we can get a bite.

veronese68

You all bought the wrong bike. Green is the way to go.

indyp

Wheels are as rt mentioned Archetype rims, Novatec 711/712 hubs with DT Comp spokes. This was my first complete bike build which including the wheels, although Ugo very kindly answered any questions I had along the way...he's a very nice chap.

It's such a joy to ride and not the tank I've heard suggested - I easily carry it up and down a flight of stairs each day

rubertoe

I carry mine up a flight of stairs (and down) every day.

Told you i'd be right about the wheels.

mrfpb

For those of you who bought online without test riding, how did you decide on handlebar width, crank and stem length. Just asking as I hope to be getting a new bike in the new year and will likely be moving from flat bars to drops.

rubertoe

mrfpb wrote:

For those of you who bought online without test riding, how did you decide on handlebar width, crank and stem length. Just asking as I hope to be getting a new bike in the new year and will likely be moving from flat bars to drops.

I took measurements from the bike that I already had.

Most bikes come with accepted standard sizes depending on the frame size. bars and stems can easily be replaced.

night_porter

mrfpb wrote:

For those of you who bought online without test riding, how did you decide on handlebar width, crank and stem length. Just asking as I hope to be getting a new bike in the new year and will likely be moving from flat bars to drops.

If it is your first bike with drops then I would suggest you go to a few bike shops and see what feels comfortable for you then you could either measure the bars or ask the retailer what size they are. Of course you may like a bike enough to buy it from your lbs and get the advice from them.

NP

godders1

I got one of these at the end of last week, really doesn't ride like an 11kg bike and I'm impressed with the new Tiagra group. BB7s are ace but I had them on my old bike so knew that already.

mrfpb wrote:

For those of you who bought online without test riding, how did you decide on handlebar width, crank and stem length. Just asking as I hope to be getting a new bike in the new year and will likely be moving from flat bars to drops.

I've been measured previously so as above I now just set a new bike up as per a current bike.

I might get shouted at for this but if you're average height (5'10" +/- 2") you should be fine with a 172.5 crankset and 42cm bars. If you’re bigger/smaller than average just go up/down a size accordingly. Stem has much more of an effect on overall set-up so hard to guess that one. The good news is stems can be had for not too much money so I’d just take a flyer when you order (the one they spec for your size frame has the best chance of being right anyway) and if you feel you’re a bit stretched/upright just buy a shorter/longer stem and flog the old one here or on ebay.

DrLex

Godders1 wrote:

I got one of these at the end of last week, really doesn't ride like an 11kg bike and I'm impressed with the new Tiagra group. BB7s are ace but I had them on my old bike so knew that already.

[...]

Did you used to ride a Pompetamine? If so, what's the comparison? I'm assuming it's a little quicker up to speed & more race-y.

godders1

Yes I did have a pompetamine. Because of the Alfine hub the Pomp was even more of a beast (getting on for 14kg) and the jumps between gears (8 speed) were a bit wide meaning I was often in between gears. Fine for pootling but an exhausting bike to ride if you wanted to go at any sort of pace.

So yes the Kaff is a lot more sprightly for those reasons although I don't think there's a world of difference in terms of geometry.

(I have a Kinesis racelight build too so I'm not just comparing the Kaff with a 14kg monster!)

godders1

With apologies for incorrect crank arm angle.

night_porter

Godders1 wrote:

With apologies for incorrect crank arm angle.

Never mind the crank arm angle why have you got a "Car Park Full" sign attached to your saddle?

godders1

Political statement innit.

redvee

Quick Q for those running a disc on the front and full guards. Where is the guard mounted on the LH side? Mine is on the top calliper bolt.

night_porter

redvee wrote:

Quick Q for those running a disc on the front and full guards. Where is the guard mounted on the LH side? Mine is on the top calliper bolt.

If it works for you then it is fine.

I attached mine to the normal mudguard eye but put a set into the arm so that it bends out past the brake caliper but each side of the set is straight. This is to keep my OCD in check

godders1

night_porter wrote:

redvee wrote:

Quick Q for those running a disc on the front and full guards. Where is the guard mounted on the LH side? Mine is on the top calliper bolt.

I attached mine to the normal mudguard eye but put a set into the arm so that it bends out past the brake caliper but each side of the set is straight.

Same here.

haywire

Godders1 wrote:

night_porter wrote:

redvee wrote:

Quick Q for those running a disc on the front and full guards. Where is the guard mounted on the LH side? Mine is on the top calliper bolt.

I attached mine to the normal mudguard eye but put a set into the arm so that it bends out past the brake caliper but each side of the set is straight.

Same here.

Used the eyelet, but bent mine underneath the caliper, so the stays make a sort of backwards 'Z' shape (if that makes any sense)

Edit: Oh, the downside of doing this is that the excess brake cable has a tendency to clonk on the stay. Bent it out the way for now.

rubertoe

I am really surprised how well the kaff climbs, it certainly isnt the beast its made out to be (either that or I am just awesome).

Still looking to change the fork though, as i think that is the reason for my tennis elbow.

EKE_38BPM

rubertoe wrote:

I am really surprised how well the kaff climbs, it certainly isnt the beast its made out to be (either that or I am just awesome).

Still looking to change the fork though, as i think that is the reason for my tennis elbow.

No, the Kaffenback is perfect! Nothing needs changing.
If you do think that you need a new fork, how about this?

rubertoe

EKE_38BPM wrote:

rubertoe wrote:

I am really surprised how well the kaff climbs, it certainly isnt the beast its made out to be (either that or I am just awesome).

Still looking to change the fork though, as i think that is the reason for my tennis elbow.

No, the Kaffenback is perfect! Nothing needs changing.
If you do think that you need a new fork, how about this?

Sweet, but MTB only.

Maybe these

But more than likely these

rubertoe

flat barred version if you are so inclined

Sram Rival

indyp

I have a question for fitting the rear guard bracket to the frame. Have you drilled a hole through the guard or made up a bracket to do the job. I've got an L shaped one I'm about to drill and cut for the job. Is there a reason why the thread hole is where it is, thought it would be level not underneath?

EKE_38BPM

rubertoe wrote:

Sram Rival

Ex display. Probably the bike I took out for a test ride.

redvee

indyP wrote:

I have a question for fitting the rear guard bracket to the frame. Have you drilled a hole through the guard or made up a bracket to do the job. I've got an L shaped one I'm about to drill and cut for the job. Is there a reason why the thread hole is where it is, thought it would be level not underneath?

I drilled a hole in my rear guard. Got it positioned correctly and rubbed it on the seat stay where the hole is to mark the guard slightly and drilled a 5mm hole. I went to the trouble of buying stainless bolts for the frame for bottle/rack/guards. The only bolt that isn't stainless is the one securing the rack on the drive side at the hub and had to use a dome head bolt to clear the chain when I infrequently use the 12t sprocket.

haywire

indyP wrote:

I have a question for fitting the rear guard bracket to the frame. Have you drilled a hole through the guard or made up a bracket to do the job. I've got an L shaped one I'm about to drill and cut for the job. Is there a reason why the thread hole is where it is, thought it would be level not underneath?

I drilled a hole. Had to find a similar bolt to the one used for the chain stay fixing.

godders1

indyP wrote:

I have a question for fitting the rear guard bracket to the frame. Have you drilled a hole through the guard or made up a bracket to do the job. I've got an L shaped one I'm about to drill and cut for the job. Is there a reason why the thread hole is where it is, thought it would be level not underneath?

I initally took the lazy option and bent the bracket that comes with the Chromoplastics 90 degrees to align with the hole. This made things just a bit too tight so eventually ended up taking it off and just drilling a hole in the guard.

Probably teaching granny to suck eggs but make sure you use a washer. A "friend of mine" (ahem) had a bike with a screwed in rear guard without a washer and after about a year the screw had gradually ground the hole in the guard bigger and bigger until it reached the same size as the bolt head. :oops:

rubertoe

Cable ties to the bridge innit...

I'll upload some photos later.

indyp

I just couldn't bring myself to drill a hole in my new shiny mudguards so adapted a bracket leftover from an Ikea something or other, and it does the job perfect

redvee

Perhaps it's time je me suis lavé my Kaffenback?, anyhow my mudguard fixing.