The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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If the bracket on the bottom of the light unscrews you might be able to use half of one of these http://www.manafont.com/product_info.ph ... ter-p-3345
Does it not come with a head strap like this? http://www.lightmalls.com/head-strap-fo ... 0003-m00260 -
Nobby Nic wrote:I`ve just received my lightmalls order exactly 10days after ordering, so not bad.
Can anyone recommend a better mount for bars or helmet ?
Pretty sure one of these will work
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=23533
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this has probably been done to death, but how long do DX take to deliver to UK? I ordered on the 3rd Oct a torch and accessories but have not arrived yet, is it usually 2-3 weeks?
I really need the torch before the clocks go back like...
Cheers,Current bike: 2014 Kinesis Racelight T2 - built by my good self!0 -
Delivery times were around 2-3 weeks but they have been a bit inconsistent at the moment. So hard to say at the moment.0
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Neal_ wrote:If the bracket on the bottom of the light unscrews you might be able to use half of one of these http://www.manafont.com/product_info.ph ... ter-p-3345
Does it not come with a head strap like this? http://www.lightmalls.com/head-strap-fo ... 0003-m0026
Thanks I think I might have one of those kicking around somewhere, it does have a removeable screw at the base. I will try it and see.stellamandude wrote:
Failing the above thankyou, that looks a good mount. 0 -
sparky.2002 wrote:It may look spotty when you blast it at the kitchen wall...but take it out on the trail and it is not spotty at all.
Compared to my 872 it's about half as wide... And with this much power that's daft IMO, it could give a far wider beam and still be more than bright enough. Might fanny around with the reflectors and see if I can adjust that a little.Uncompromising extremist0 -
Smear vaseline on the front of the lens....0
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Think you need to take care with using these different mounts to ensure the bolt into the light isn't too long.0
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Well, it seems to be that now is my turn to write some kind of brief review for the triple-XML light from LM...
http://www.lightmalls.com/3600-lumen-3t6-led-high-power-bicycle-light-for-3-cree-xm-l-t6-4-mode-led-bike-light-kit
Long story short, it is good light - but as usually with cheap Chinese unbranded stuffs, it requires a bit of work to become trustworthy device. The level of engineering and the quality of parts are quite good, but it assembled terribly.
One interesting fact is, that LEDs aren't soldered to the single baseplate (as in many multy-LED lights), but are individually mounted on more or less standard 14-mm round bases, with one edge grinded out. The pill have 3 recessed places for each LED base, with very fine polished (almost mirror-like) surfaces. Mounting pressure is provided not by separate screws, but by reflector of quite complicated shape: each hole is surrounded by protruding circular skirting on the inner side, with cable channels milled between them in the rest of surface. The LED bases are covered with stiff adhesive sheets of teflon-like plastic with square holes for LED dome. That way, back side of reflector provide equal pressure to the LED bases in circular areas around each LED, leaving enough free space for the wires and soldering points. Reflector itself is fixed to the pill by single M3 screw in the center.
Upon inspection, I've found that there's no thermal paste in the light: all the LEDs were glued to the pill by thick layer of silicone-like substance (obviously, it started hardening long before final assembly), which wasn't even covered the contact surfaces fully!
The wires were not aligned to the respective channels in the reflector, and prevented it from applying the correct force to the LEDs. In addition, the reflector's screw wasn't tightened at all.
Inside of pill, I've found several metal particles from drilling, milling and soldering: fortunately, they not managed to cause electrical shortage during first switching of light on. Thermal contact between the pill and outer case was merely absent: no any traces of thermal paste, and relatively narrow matching surfaces.
I've completely disassembled the light, desoldered the LEDs, cleaned all the residues of silicone, and applied good Arctic Silver thermal paste to them. After soldering and aligning the parts, the reflector was mounted back and fully tightened, with Locktite applied to the thread. For thermal conductivity, I've applied layer of viscous thermal paste (Russian-made KPT-8) between pill and the case.
Also, I've replaced weak original power cable with good MagicShine one, and installed rubber boot into cable hole in the outer case (initially, there was a wide gap, compromising the watertightness of light). Internal wires between LEDs and driver are good ones, with silicone insulation, although a bit too long IMHO.
Driver (marked TR-0192) is of unusual design. There's essentially two independent drivers: for one lower LED and for two upper ones connected in series: either of them or both can be switched on, resulting 3-mode arrangement.
The manufacturer marking on some components was unfortunately sanded out at the factory. Initial current consumption of the light was as follow: Low mode takes 0.58 A from battery, medium – 1.70, and high – 1.85.
As I've managed to provide normal heat dissipation path in the light, I've decided to increase its output: after little bit of reverse-engineering, I've located the current-sense resistors (they're R5/0.1 Ohm and R10/0.15 Ohm, respectively) and reduced the values by about 20 %. This allowed me to unleash some of power, increasing current consumption to the 0.82 A, 2.45 A and 2.27A, and light output to 3950, 11120, and 11070, respectively - making the light to be a 20-watt one.
There's interesting issue with difference between mid and high modes: as you see from the table, actual current is less in high mode than in middle: most likely, this caused by some kind of protection limiting the overall current for the light, or by parasitic current flow across the driver's PCB on "unexpectedly-high" modes. I've neither the time nor desire to investigate this further, so let it be. As for the eye perception, the change between mid and max is more interesting: the brightness of beam essentially does not change (as lower current is compensated by more LEDs in action), but flood is increased, and cone of light is more consistent.
Indication of battery discharge doesn’t work. There’s separate green & red LEDs on the driver, but the latter is never lit: the button illuminated by green LED all the way down to the complete discharge of battery and its disconnection by protective circuit.
At home, the light quickly become hot on the mid/max modes (too hot to touch by bare hand). On open air, during my typical 3-hour night ride, it's just warm: thermal dissipation seems to be good enough. The beam gives quite good impression: low mode (that is, single LED) is comparable to the MagicShine light and totally sufficient for road, while mid and high provide a plenty of light for the forest trails and so on.
Some more details: I've lubricated all the threads with silicone grease, fixed the mount's screw with Locktite, and added a layer of rubber to the mount surface contacting the handlebar.
The last thing: the battery. It was clear in advance (giving the price of whole set) that it's not the best one - and tests confirmed that. Measured capacity is miserable 2508 mAh, so the only use for it is, perhaps, to be a spare battery for MagicShine rear light, or something like that. Obviously, the light will be used with one of my high-capacity MagicShine batteries.
Finally, I'd like to express gratitude to all the people on this forum who previously shared their opinions and reviews of this light: thanks guys, and have a good ride! 0 -
WOW now thats a review!
I'm worried about you, either your taking a break from making bombs or you dont have a wife?
I think i might get one of those batteries though, as clearly it is the weak point in the light kit.0 -
Brilliant review archie - it kindof seems daft for this light to run at the factory spec you claim. But I guess the Chinese have worked out that most people focus on LED type and run time than actual Current of the light.
Would be good to see before/after beem shots. I was reading all the thermal improvements you did and then wondering why you'd bother at 5w each, until you talked about your upgrades.
can you just clarify your double vs. tripple ugprade Current and Power figures, they don't seem right? I'd expect it to be about 23 W on tripple?0 -
Don't worry: I have a wife and two kids - but sometimes, they're sleeping!VWsurfbum wrote:I'm worried about you, either your taking a break from making bombs or you dont have a wife? I prefer to make something useful and pretty, but nobody seems to believe me. Once upon a time, my son asked me "Dad, is it explosive?!?" And guess what? He pointed at my new battery being assembled: several 18650 cells tied together with adhesive tape for initial soldering! No doubt: it looked exactly like dynamite pack from "Tom & Jerry" cartoon, with power cable resembling bridgewire... :oops:
Absolutely.I think i might get one of those batteries though, as clearly it is the weak point in the light kit.0 -
I was surprised as well - but that's my meters were displaying. Measurements were taken by two meters simultaneously connected to the power wire: voltmeter show actual voltage of battery under load, and ampere meter - actual current flowing to the light at the same time. The last column in the tables is calculated by simple multiplying of both values.diy wrote:can you just clarify your double vs. tripple ugprade Current and Power figures, they don't seem right? I'd expect it to be about 23 W on tripple?0 -
-Archie- wrote:
Don't worry: I have a wife and two kids - but sometimes, they're sleeping!VWsurfbum wrote:I'm worried about you, either your taking a break from making bombs or you dont have a wife? I prefer to make something useful and pretty, but nobody seems to believe me. Once upon a time, my son asked me "Dad, is it explosive?!?" And guess what? He pointed at my new battery being assembled: several 18650 cells tied together with adhesive tape for initial soldering! No doubt: it looked exactly like dynamite pack from "Tom & Jerry" cartoon, with power cable resembling bridgewire... :oops:
Absolutely.I think i might get one of those batteries though, as clearly it is the weak point in the light kit.
What battery is it ?0 -
the nice magicshine one at the end.-Archie- wrote:
Text quoted by you deals with at least three different kinds of batteries: my self-made ones, MagicShine-branded and compatibles, and one included in the package of mentioned LM light. Which one your question is referred to?andyrr wrote:What battery is it ?
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-Archie- wrote:Text quoted by you deals with at least three different kinds of batteries: my self-made ones, MagicShine-branded and compatibles, and one included in the package of mentioned LM light. Which one your question is referred to?
On the topic of batteries would a 6 cell 3s2p 12.6v pack be ok with this light and the charger it is supplied with (e.g. http://www.lightmalls.com/6-18650-batte ... bike-light) or do you need to stick to 4 cell 2s2p 8.4v (e.g. http://www.lightmalls.com/4-18650-batte ... ycle-light or http://www.lightmalls.com/waterproof-4- ... -magic-bag)
Cheers0 -
Sorry, but it is my self-made battery. MagicShine does not currently offer really big batteries: most powerful of their range is a MJ-6036 6600 mAh battery (3p2s):VWsurfbum wrote:the nice magicshine one at the end.
http://www.magicshine.hk/ShowProduct.aspx?id=56
If higher capacity is needed, third-party vendors are making them. The battery approximately close to mine is available, for example, from MagicShineUK.co.uk:
http://www.magicshineuk.co.uk/products/ ... ike-lights
They're selling fine Open Light Systems batteries, with ordinary water bottle used as outer case:
http://www.openlightsystems.com/Accesso ... eries.html.jpg)
Also, I've seen one South African vendor on eBay, who offer high-capacity "bottled" batteries for MS, but I can't recall the name now...0 -
-Archie- wrote:
I was surprised as well - but that's my meters were displaying. Measurements were taken by two meters simultaneously connected to the power wire: voltmeter show actual voltage of battery under load, and ampere meter - actual current flowing to the light at the same time. The last column in the tables is calculated by simple multiplying of both values.diy wrote:can you just clarify your double vs. tripple ugprade Current and Power figures, they don't seem right? I'd expect it to be about 23 W on tripple?
Were you measuring voltage at the star or the driver input?
Neal_ Charger wound not be any use, and voltage input is going to be buck/driver dependent. Of course you could change the pack to be 2S3P and all would be fine (mostly). Though you'd probably need different charge controls0 -
My T60 arrived today from DX! Complete with Trustfire 18650 batteries, charger and mount... can't wait to get charged and try out! Commute home yesterday was in near dark at the end! I felt the need for more lumens...Current bike: 2014 Kinesis Racelight T2 - built by my good self!0
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diy wrote:Neal_ Charger wound not be any use, and voltage input is going to be buck/driver dependent. Of course you could change the pack to be 2S3P and all would be fine (mostly). Though you'd probably need different charge controls-Archie- wrote:Definitely no! It would be heavy overvoltage with unpredictable result. Stick with 3p2s battery, or 4p2s and so on...
thanks, I'll stick with cheap 2s2p packs as CBA rewiring anything and I'm not paying loads for "proper" packs...might look into 18650 holders to use with loose cells though.0 -
