The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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Probably not, I usually end up breaking things when I do that-Archie- wrote:BTW, do you intend to disassemble the light to inspect the quality of manufacturing?
Case gets hot quickly so I presume the heat transfer is good at least.Ouija wrote:It's also worth noting that Magicshine themselves don't recommend that you use a 8v (four cell, 2s/2p) battery pack on any light with more than one T6 in it. It draws a lot more amps from the batteries. The greater the amp drain from the batteries, the shorter it's life span. There is a PDF somewhere, warning you against using their Y-Splitter cable to run two lights off one battery (it's for running a front light and rear, low ampage, flasher only). With a T6 with 8v output you need 4 cells, for two T6's you need a 6 cell pack and for three T6's a 8 cell pack if you want the batteries to last more than a few months.
:shock: Uh oh... The pack it comes with is four cell (2s/2p). I've not come across anything other than a 6 cell which is presumably 2s/3p at Lightmalls I think it was. Have you come across any 8 cell packs anywhere? I'd be happy to make one except for the waterproofing aspect of it... Guess I could always use the y splitter backwards, have two lots of 4 cell packs feeding the one light, bit clunky though...0 -
Ouija, on the MS site, the Y-cable doesn't have any recommendations against using it for particular light combinations:
http://www.magicshine.hk/ShowProduct.aspx?id=63
In my opinion, there's absolutely no problems to connect two headlights to one 2s2p battery, except for the shortened runtime in max mode. The standard load current for most 18650 cells is around 1C (i.e., approximately 2.5 to 3 A), which is way less than current flowing in the twin-light configuration.
On the other hand, I personally prefer separate batteries because of reliability: when your battery suddenly become flat, it's better to have spare one already connected and second light working...0 -
There are third-party high capacity batteries for MagicShine, including "bottled" ones:Sheppy wrote:Have you come across any 8 cell packs anywhere? I'd be happy to make one except for the waterproofing aspect of it...
http://www.openlightsystems.com/Batteri ... agicShine/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261100538791
But IMHO they're overpriced, so if you can do it yourself - go ahead!
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I might make my own, it might be a bit Hansel and Gretel though with a trail of batteries left behind as I go round the course
I think I will just run the 4 pack anyway, if they die then I'll think of a plan B. The ones you link to are very expensive...
Thinking about it though I'm sure someone runs a FandyFire(?) with 3 T6s somewhere on this forum, presumably off a 4 pack... Would look up who it is but being lazy atm :oops:0 -
diy wrote:very little the design of the crown is about it.
top one is a 502 bottom is 501
Thanks - so the power / performance is the same? I was looking at these - seems like not a bad deal ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110860135192? ... 1800wt_9550 -
JCJC wrote:diy wrote:very little the design of the crown is about it.
top one is a 502 bottom is 501
Thanks - so the power / performance is the same? I was looking at these - seems like not a bad deal ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110860135192? ... 1800wt_955
Not all 501/502 are the same - really you want to know the ampage of the driver to be sure.
the torches are £7 for a U2 bin at 3A current.0 -
Just picked up a Holy Moses from Four4th today with green tint. Just used it tonight and it's ace! 3 settings and a flash mode. Nice service too! Well worth the £££££.0
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What do you recon to these?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110860135192? ... 1800wt_955
[/quote] Not all 501/502 are the same - really you want to know the ampage of the driver to be sure.
the torches are £7 for a U2 bin at 3A current.[/quote]0 -
Amperage and a type of LED. Actually, 501/202 are not the exact flashlights: they are just a case (holder) for the battery and P60 modules, which are quite different and may contain various LEDs or halogen bulbs:diy wrote:Not all 501/502 are the same - really you want to know the ampage of the driver to be sure.
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-Archie- wrote:
Amperage and a type of LED. Actually, 501/202 are not the exact flashlights: they are just a case (holder) for the battery and P60 modules, which are quite different and may contain various LEDs or halogen bulbs:diy wrote:Not all 501/502 are the same - really you want to know the ampage of the driver to be sure.
OK, are you able to advise if those on the ebay link above are indeed 1000lm each? Thanks0 -
I've had a scan thru this thread but haven't found what I'm looking for and gave up after page 20!!
Has anyone used this light, and would you recommend it?
http://www.ebay.co.uk:80/itm/280965343708?
I don't want to spend too much, was looking at the Magic Shine copies mad noticed this one. Any help appreciated,
Chris0 -
Geordie-Chris wrote:I've had a scan thru this thread but haven't found what I'm looking for and gave up after page 20!!
Has anyone used this light, and would you recommend it?
http://www.ebay.co.uk:80/itm/280965343708?
I don't want to spend too much, was looking at the Magic Shine copies mad noticed this one. Any help appreciated,
Chris
it was this one : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110860135192? ... 1800wt_9420 -
Of course, no. The LED as such is capable to emit 1000 lm, but even in well-made lights is rarely used at its maximum power.JCJC wrote:OK, are you able to advise if those on the ebay link above are indeed 1000lm each?
As for 501/502 torches, I'd advise not to buy them in modern LED configurations at all: the amount of heat generated by P7 or XM-L diode absolutely can not be dissipated by poor thermal conductivity between drop-in and the case. Look for the C2 or C8 flashlights instead...0 -
-Archie- wrote:As for 501/502 torches, I'd advise not to buy them in modern LED configurations at all: the amount of heat generated by P7 or XM-L diode absolutely can not be dissipated by poor thermal conductivity between drop-in and the case. Look for the C2 or C8 flashlights instead...
Plenty of people here are using 501/502 torches with modern LED configurations and find they work fine. Yes the heat dissipation is not ideal but is sufficient as long as you don't run them on full power for extended periods of time.
JCJC - look for a torch that has a multi-mode driver (high-med-low settings) so you can reduce the output a little bit so you don't cook the LED.0 -
Fine, but not for long.jairaj wrote:Plenty of people here are using 501/502 torches with modern LED configurations and find they work fine. They are most cheaper lights available - and this is the reason for people not aware of technical details to buy them. But cheap junk is still junk, and IMHO should be avoided. After all, the real torches are not so expensive... 0 -
JCJC I take it you didn't mean to quote my question?JCJC wrote:Geordie-Chris wrote:I've had a scan thru this thread but haven't found what I'm looking for and gave up after page 20!!
Has anyone used this light, and would you recommend it?
http://www.ebay.co.uk:80/itm/280965343708?
I don't want to spend too much, was looking at the Magic Shine copies mad noticed this one. Any help appreciated,
Chris
it was this one : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110860135192? ... 1800wt_9420 -
Geordie-Chris wrote:I've had a scan thru this thread but haven't found what I'm looking for and gave up after page 20!!
Has anyone used this light, and would you recommend it?
http://www.ebay.co.uk:80/itm/280965343708?
I don't want to spend too much, was looking at the Magic Shine copies mad noticed this one. Any help appreciated,
Chris
Wouldn't buy that for a couple of reasons
1) It's essentially THREE T6's running off a four cell battery pack which will stress the batteries considerably (not only drain them very quickly but also shorten the life span of the battery as the faster you try to drain/charge a battery the more damage you do to it). Should have at least a 6 or 8 cell pack for that many T6's (unless they're all running at a much dimmer 4v instead of 8v.. in which case you only need a four cell parallel connected pack)
2) Heat. Three T6's in one small housing are gonna overheat.
3) Flood. The shallower the reflector of a light is and the closer it sits the LED to the front glass the more floody the lights going to get. With almost nothing going down the center of the beam. Essentially you get a big doughnut ring of bright light going to your left and right but a pretty dim central area that doesn't throw the light down the road (almost no spot).0 -
And this would be exactly the reason to buy this light for me, to be used in the night forest!Ouija wrote:Essentially you get a big doughnut ring of bright light going to your left and right but a pretty dim central area that doesn't throw the light down the road (almost no spot). But please note previous review of the owner, who said that the shape of light is pretty much similar to the famous MJ-808 light... 0 -
Any links to C2 or C8 flashlights?Cannondale F500
Peugeot Fixed Gear
Specialized Hardrock
Baordman Team Carbon
Haro Freestyler Sport 1984
Coming Soon...Canyon Nerve AM 7.00 -
-Archie- wrote:
And this would be exactly the reason to buy this light for me, to be used in the night forest!Ouija wrote:Essentially you get a big doughnut ring of bright light going to your left and right but a pretty dim central area that doesn't throw the light down the road (almost no spot). But please note previous review of the owner, who said that the shape of light is pretty much similar to the famous MJ-808 light...
I'd have to disagree with you here. First and foremost I want light in front of me so I can see what I'm about to ride into. Secondly if there is enough light for my peripheral vision then great.0 -
Ouija wrote:Geordie-Chris wrote:I've had a scan thru this thread but haven't found what I'm looking for and gave up after page 20!!
Has anyone used this light, and would you recommend it?
http://www.ebay.co.uk:80/itm/280965343708?
I don't want to spend too much, was looking at the Magic Shine copies mad noticed this one. Any help appreciated,
Chris
Wouldn't buy that for a couple of reasons
1) It's essentially THREE T6's running off a four cell battery pack which will stress the batteries considerably (not only drain them very quickly but also shorten the life span of the battery as the faster you try to drain/charge a battery the more damage you do to it). Should have at least a 6 or 8 cell pack for that many T6's (unless they're all running at a much dimmer 4v instead of 8v.. in which case you only need a four cell parallel connected pack)
2) Heat. Three T6's in one small housing are gonna overheat.
3) Flood. The shallower the reflector of a light is and the closer it sits the LED to the front glass the more floody the lights going to get. With almost nothing going down the center of the beam. Essentially you get a big doughnut ring of bright light going to your left and right but a pretty dim central area that doesn't throw the light down the road (almost no spot).
What sort of battery stress? Do you have any figures in mind?0 -
Everyone's needs are different. Currently I have three "1000 Chinese lumens" XM-L ligts for my forest trails: wide-beam and narrow beam on my handlebar, and medium-beam on my helmet. It is in fact acceptable setup, but I want even more flood light on some singletracks.jairaj wrote:I'd have to disagree with you here. First and foremost I want light in front of me so I can see what I'm about to ride into. Secondly if there is enough light for my peripheral vision then great.
If one is looking for single universal light for every situation, I'd refrain from comments, though...0 -
My mate sent me this link..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160657830011? ... 150wt_1031
He's thinking of getting these.. I said it's so cheap they will probably be bull crap...
But do any of you guys in the know.... well... know what this would be like??Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.
Ghost AMR 7500 2012
De Rosa R8380 -
They are fine - more like 1400 lumens, but are well made and water proofed.0
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-Archie- how do the C2 and C8 lights differ from the 501/502 lights? Is it just a larger body so more of a heat sink effect? or is the construction different so that it provides a better interface between the drop-in and the body?
I have 502 body and find some of the drop ins don't make a good interface with the body to transfer the heat. but with a bit of bodging you can get to work quite well.0 -
Rushmore wrote:I've just ordered a couple of Majicshine MJ-872
Anyone else had experience with these? Battery life, throw ( i'm hoping there is better throw with not so much spot )
I also selected the EMS shipping Does anyone else know how log they take to come through?
muuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhh
Just aske DX about my lights as it still shows as payment confirmed.. I have to wait 2 weeks as they are out of stock.. although their website said In Stock..
Maaaaaaaaaan that freakin sux..... :xAlways remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.
Ghost AMR 7500 2012
De Rosa R8380 -
supersonic wrote:They are fine - more like 1400 lumens, but are well made and water proofed.
Max - the two smaller ones are XPE leds.0
