The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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Having trouble with this mount on my road bars (oversize? - 31.8mm I think)
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/flashlight-mount-792
The screw is just not quite long enough and the plastic nut keeps slipping. Any ideas I'm stumped0 -
I've just ordered one of those (not arrived yet) for my road bike and I read somewhere to use a cable tie threaded through instead of the bolt for bigger bars - suppose that means you can't remove it without sacrificing the cable tie but hey cable ties are cheap so that's what I planned to do if I needed to.
Plan B - order one of these
http://dx.com/p/universal-adjustable-bi ... 71?item=35
SKU: 318710 -
I don't particularly rate the 'lockblocks' for your bars - they are OK, but they are not easy to adjust on the fly, and I find that they will slip over rough ground. They are great on your lid, thoug. The best bar mount I have found is this one.Vitus Sentier VR+ (2018) GT Grade AL 105 (2016)
Giant Anthem X4 (2010) GT Avalanche 1.0 (2010)
Kingley Vale and QECP Trail Collective - QECP Trail Building0 -
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One 80 wrote:
question for other chaps. when using unprotected how do you know not to let the battery go too low when in use. is it guess work or will the light dim. ??
I'd like to know about this one too. I've harvested some cells from old laptop batts as DIY recommends, most of which seemed to charge up fine to ~4.1V, and my 7 quid 501B XM-L U2 torches (again, as per DIY's footer) are on their way. So is it just a matter of remembering how long you use each light and at what power setting? Or will they dim enough to let me know before I brick my cells?0 -
I've just ordered a couple of Majicshine MJ-872
Anyone else had experience with these? Battery life, throw ( i'm hoping there is better throw with not so much spot )
I also selected the EMS shipping Does anyone else know how log they take to come through?Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.
Ghost AMR 7500 2012
De Rosa R8380 -
KokaKona wrote:One 80 wrote:
question for other chaps. when using unprotected how do you know not to let the battery go too low when in use. is it guess work or will the light dim. ??
I'd like to know about this one too. I've harvested some cells from old laptop batts as DIY recommends, most of which seemed to charge up fine to ~4.1V, and my 7 quid 501B XM-L U2 torches (again, as per DIY's footer) are on their way. So is it just a matter of remembering how long you use each light and at what power setting? Or will they dim enough to let me know before I brick my cells?
Firstly it will take a couple of cycles to get your laptop cells up to 4.2v and hold that current since they will have spent most of their time a 3.7v.
Secondly if you wait for the led to dim or shut down, it will be too late for the cell as most of the drivers don't cut out until the volts drop below 3.2 (i.e. far too low). If you have a DC amp meter you can accurately measure the usage. If not then you are relying on voltage meeter to guess. Just keep an mental eye on how long you run in each mode and check the voltage after a ride. Try not to take them below 3.6v
There is some guidance in my video : http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_annotate?v=RjtwE41PX1g
at about 4.300 -
It's not 100% accurate but for a rough guide I've connected one of the units below to my battery pack with a push switch. I can check the battery state at any point by simply pressing the switch and getting an idea of voltage.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... ink:top:en
1010 -
diy wrote:KokaKona wrote:One 80 wrote:
question for other chaps. when using unprotected how do you know not to let the battery go too low when in use. is it guess work or will the light dim. ??
I'd like to know about this one too. I've harvested some cells from old laptop batts as DIY recommends, most of which seemed to charge up fine to ~4.1V, and my 7 quid 501B XM-L U2 torches (again, as per DIY's footer) are on their way. So is it just a matter of remembering how long you use each light and at what power setting? Or will they dim enough to let me know before I brick my cells?
Firstly it will take a couple of cycles to get your laptop cells up to 4.2v and hold that current since they will have spent most of their time a 3.7v.
Secondly if you wait for the led to dim or shut down, it will be too late for the cell as most of the drivers don't cut out until the volts drop below 3.2 (i.e. far too low). If you have a DC amp meter you can accurately measure the usage. If not then you are relying on voltage meeter to guess. Just keep an mental eye on how long you run in each mode and check the voltage after a ride. Try not to take them below 3.6v
There is some guidance in my video : http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_annotate?v=RjtwE41PX1g
at about 4.30
way too much hasle for me that. i dont own a meter. im assuming my protected batteries are safe from this happening.
protected all the way for me if so.Boardman comp 20120 -
We too - just split a 6 cell Dell battery pack open but think I will stick these to one side and keep using my protected cells that I have purchased properly.
Still waiting for the 3xXML, 4 cell torch from Lightmalls, but the 4 cell charger I ordered turned up - dead out of the box... Logged a ticked with them a week ago but no response yet.0 -
Protected cells have their own problems so its swings and roundabouts - I just get in the habit of changing cells regularly and don't really give a shoot if I fry the odd cell when out since i have 100s. The upside is that generally you get better quality cells with higher amp hours.
The dark pink ones in Dells are around 2.7Ah at 3A, which is perfect.0 -
Thanks for the advice on using unprotected cells. I can put up with a bit more 'faffing' versus having to actually part with money to get protected cells. I don't have any kind of multimeter at home but a digital one at work, so I'll keep an eye on my run-times vs voltage readings until I get the hang of it. I have enough spare ones to waste a few on the learning curve anyhow.0
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has anyone ordered from lightmalls this wk and had emails saying they cant ship batteries because of uk customs?? i selected fast delivery that would allow postage of batteries but now the emails say no. had no problems a few wks back.Boardman comp 20120
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Proutster wrote:Very impressed so far,
Have you disassembled the light to check the internal parts? I'm very interested in the efficiency of heat dissipation, material of reflector (is it aluminium, or plastic?), and grade of waterproofing.
Also, how narrow is the beam? Is it suitable for the rides on night forest's trails and the like? Could you please compare it to the your old P7 light from DX in terms of light cone consistency & angle?
Thank you!0 -
Any idea what might be a good mount for OS handlebars?0
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cocomo wrote:Any idea what might be a good mount for OS handlebars?
How about this............
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalo ... CCcQ8wIwAQ
I picked up one of these on Ebay, think I paid about £5.
Once it's fitted it certainly doesn't move !!
Assuming your're not wanting to fit a "flash light" LOL0 -
Quick new question. I have been looking at the Ultrafire lights - what is the difference between the 501B and the 502B ?
Thanks!0 -
very little the design of the crown is about it.
top one is a 502 bottom is 501
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stellamandude wrote:cocomo wrote:Any idea what might be a good mount for OS handlebars?
How about this............
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalo ... CCcQ8wIwAQ
I picked up one of these on Ebay, think I paid about £5.
Once it's fitted it certainly doesn't move !!
Assuming your're not wanting to fit a "flash light" LOL
Aye for a couple of torches so I'm not sure how I would go about using that either.0 -
I placed an order last week and paid for fed ex as advised on the site but haven't heard anything off them as yet.0
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One word..... Customs. Sometimes they shoot right through, other times they have the package and leave it weeks before they release it.0
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Fantastic thread - thanks to all. Seen a lot of posts about postage so ...
I placed an order with DX (the THE SIMPLE ALL YOU NEED TO GET GOING SET UP:
from SS sticky) on 8th Sep got an email a couple of days later apologising that it hadn't been processed cause one item was out of stock - it has now been marked shipped as of a couple of days ago.
I placed another order with DX on the 9th - it was marked shipped on the 10th and it arrived today.
Pretty good so far (assuming the 8th order is here as quick!).0 -
my c8 turned up from lightmalls today but without the batteries. was hoping there was a mess up and the email was wrong but it looks like they cant now ship batteries. dont understand this. i also have a nother order placed so il prob get no batteries with this too.
arggggBoardman comp 20120 -
I ordered the 3600-Lumen 3T6 LED light from Lightmalls on 28th August, it turned up yesterday with everything including the battery pack in there. Perhaps it's just the individual batteries they can't ship?
In case anyone is thinking of getting one of those, lights, although I haven't tried it on the bike yet, I compared it to an original Magicshine and a newer budget T6 light and it's pretty amazing! Well recommended. On the low setting it's the same as an original Magicshine (which I guess it to be expected). Difference between medium (2 LEDs light) and max (all 3 LEDs light) isn't that impressive though.0 -
Sheppy wrote:I compared it to an original Magicshine and a newer budget T6 light and it's pretty amazing! Well recommended. On the low setting it's the same as an original Magicshine (which I guess it to be expected). Difference between medium (2 LEDs light) and max (all 3 LEDs light) isn't that impressive though.
Also, does it switch itself on upon connection of battery (like original MagicShine did), or you'll need to press the button?
How wide is the beam, if compared to MagicShine?0 -
-Archie- wrote:Thanks! May I ask you about mode arrangement? Is it "High-Medium-Low-Flash", or some other order?
Also, does it switch itself on upon connection of battery (like original MagicShine did), or you'll need to press the button?
How wide is the beam, if compared to MagicShine?
Mode from off is:
Low - 1 LED
Med - 2 LEDs
High - 3 LEDs
Strobe - probably all 3 LEDs but I didn't pay much attention as it's way to bright and flashing like that does my head in!
There is no memory, you have to go through that cycle every time you connect it.
It doesn't switch itself on like the original MagicShine did on connection. Also the green LED on the back doesn't light up unless it's switched on unlike the original MagicShine
I'd say the beam angle is very similar to the MagicShine which personally I've always thought was about right for night riding.
It kicks out an awful lot of heat though as you'd expect really, I guess the runtime will be down to just over an hour on full. The connectors are identical to the MagicShine ones though and fit nice and snug so you could take your original battery pack as a backup (assuming you have the original)...0 -
You can get cheap 18650s on ebay for a couple of quid as a stop gap.0
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Sheppy, thank you very much!
Well, the MJ-808 beam is a bit narrow for my needs (I've installed the wide-angle lens into one om my lights), but it's good to know this 3*XML is at least not narrow one.
I have a plenty of MS-compatible batteries (both original & self-made ones), so the power is not a problem - but I suspect overheating issue will be real danger here.
BTW, do you intend to disassemble the light to inspect the quality of manufacturing?0 -
It's also worth noting that Magicshine themselves don't recommend that you use a 8v (four cell, 2s/2p) battery pack on any light with more than one T6 in it. It draws a lot more amps from the batteries. The greater the amp drain from the batteries, the shorter it's life span. There is a PDF somewhere, warning you against using their Y-Splitter cable to run two lights off one battery (it's for running a front light and rear, low ampage, flasher only). With a T6 with 8v output you need 4 cells, for two T6's you need a 6 cell pack and for three T6's a 8 cell pack if you want the batteries to last more than a few months.0