The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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apreading wrote:Anyone see the new twin XML at on-one?
Looks pretty good - I like the way it grips the handlears either side of the stem with a proper mount * 2. Almost tempted but decided to hold off for now.
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/LICREXMLT6LED/cree_1600_lumens_xm_l_t6_led_bike_light_kit
Yes I saw it and it looks awesome, the same light from DX costs just over £240 so to get it from PX/On-One in the UK for £130 and no chance of a customs bill is fantastic.
Even when you compare it to 2 of the £30 Magicshine copies side by side with a couple of "proper" mounts @ £15.00 each it still looks fair value for a compact and simple piece of kit because you will get a great warranty from PX/On-One.0 -
Bobbygloss wrote:My 501b's don't do this. I have the standard DX XML-T6 torches that have been linked on here, with 2 trustfire protected 2500mAh grey batteries, and 6x 2650mAh laptop batteries to choose from.
After 30 mins on low, I put them on full power and only get around 10-15 mins before they drop to a low setting with a brief flicker off. But they will still run happily on medium for 30 mins to get home. It is the same for 3 torches and all the cells.
Any ideas why?
My 502b's are the same - in a 2 hour road ride (suburban + unlit country lanes, early morning) with mixed low/medium/high usage (depending on area), I get about 30-40 minutes usage out of high mode - high mode then suddenly drops to a light level very similar to low mode and then stays at that level for the rest of the ride (I normally put mine back to real medium or low mode at that point though).0 -
Northwind wrote:You sure you want a torch for this job? A quality bike-specific light will usually have better visibility, especially from the side. I use a couple of torches on my commuter to see with, but I've added a couple of standard bike lights to be seen
Thanks North - I've decided to go for a 2nd mini-torch - they're ultralight-weight (< 30g) (don't want to sound like too much of a whimp :oops: ) and they're very bright in terms of ''be seen with'' lights (but not so bright as to glare drivers) - got my current one angled nicely ''to the left'' at about '35 deg'.0 -
It sounds like your lights are switching to a lower mode because of thermal overload (too hot) if they were switching down because of low battery power I doubt they would last long. One reason I have stuck with my XP-G R5 is because it doesn't get too hot.
You could test this theory by letting it go to the lower mode and run for 10 minutes, then try to switch back to high and if it works then heat is your problem. If the torch doesn't feel too hot on the outside then it is probably due to poor heat transfer from the led to the casing. Try packing kitchen foil around the reflector to make contact between this and the outer casing, the heat will be able to escape better if it is on the outside of the torch.
Other than this then as DIY said knowing the voltage and current draw will help to find out what the problems are.0 -
MagicShine are about to release this:
http://www.magicshine.com/product_view.asp?id=103
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magicshine-MJ ... 09369582690 -
What are the cells used in acer laptops like? any good?
My mates acer has just broken and wondering whether it would be worth having the batteries from it...0 -
Hi All
Bit different to the cheap lights debate I've just got one of these and it's like riding in daylight.
with as a battery pack
I'm going to blow the bank on a new build ( within reason ) NOW DONE!!
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss14 ... 010362.jpg0 -
That looks good any details or a link?
Ok found it and with 7 XP-G's it will be bright but too rich for me.0 -
leaflite wrote:What are the cells used in acer laptops like? any good?
My mates acer has just broken and wondering whether it would be worth having the batteries from it...
What is the voltage, Ah or Wh rating on the pack? This will enable to you to accurately calculate the type of cells. As a rule of thumb though anything under 4 years old will have 2.4Ah+ cells in, so yes its worth a few quid.0 -
diy wrote:leaflite wrote:What are the cells used in acer laptops like? any good?
My mates acer has just broken and wondering whether it would be worth having the batteries from it...
What is the voltage, Ah or Wh rating on the pack? This will enable to you to accurately calculate the type of cells. As a rule of thumb though anything under 4 years old will have 2.4Ah+ cells in, so yes its worth a few quid.
Quick search on google suggests that it should contain a 14.8v 4400ah pack.0 -
There are probably 8 cells in that pack which are probably 2200 mAh cells. 4 serial to give 14.8v (4 x 3.7v) and 2 parallel to give 4400 mAh.
Sounds like a good find!0 -
Yep 2.2Ah is not bad, they will juice up to 2.4Ah once taken to 4.2v if they are in good condition. Acer are obviously more of a budget brand, so one can expect economies.0
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Thought I'd offer some feedback on this after receiving my order through on Monday.
After running a single Fenix L2D Q5 torch on my helmet for several years, I thought I'd treat myself to an upgrade, as the batteries (Uniross Hybrio AA's) were getting tired & I was relying on a single light too.
After reading through this thread, I decided against going for another torch simply because of the battery life. We tend to do a night ride that lasts up to 3 hours, so a torch that would only last an hour between battery swaps was not a route I wanted to go down again.
Decided to go for a 2 light set-up & after a recommendation from a friend I went for this SSC P7 900-Lumen Headlamp with a textured reflector for the bars
& this T6 for a helmet mounted spot
The only downside to this 2 light set-up (delivered price of £59.58) was its lack of waterproofness, so as soon as it was delivered, I set about taking the headlamps apart & applying some Fernox silicon around where the wires come out of the reflector & again where the wire comes of of the body. Then I applied a liberal coating on the 2 unsealed ends of the battery pack & left it to dry. I also coated the O rings on the lens & the tailcaps with a smear of Vaseline.
Last nights ride was a particularly wet one, so a great test for them. The lights themselves performed brilliantly & are plenty bright enough for a solo ride in dark woods with no moon. The flood from the P7 is bob on for fast riding & the spot has enough throw to enable you to see the trail ahead well in advance. I was out for nearly 3 hours switching between low & high where necessary & the tailcap stayed green (although I'm unsure if this model changes to amber then red) so battery life gets the thumbs up from me.
Fitting was simple too, although I added a strip of old inner tube to the underside of the clamps to decrease the chance of slipping. Charger is a simple affair that shows a red LED when charging & goes green when charged. You will need a travel adapter though. Overall, for £60.00 I couldn't praise this set-up highly enough.
It's also worth noting that for a few quid more, the same lights can be purchased from the UK warehouse for a much faster delivery & no risk of customs slapping their bit on.
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/t6-waterproof-xml-t6-3-mode-1200-lumen-white-led-bike-light-with-battery-pack-set-904482510
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ssc-p7-3-mode-900-lumen-led-headlamp-bike-light-set-4-18650-9044509470 -
Good review. do the different LED tints bother you much? I personally can't get along with a p7 and T6 combo. I like my lights to be pretty matched in terms of tint, but then I may be just being geeky.0
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Personally, I can't detect a difference in tint between the two. Side by side in a dark shed, the T6 appears to be whiter than the P7, but I'd put that down to the P7 being a flood rather than a concentrated spot. Out on the trails, they both look very similar to me as the whiteness of the T6 is reduced as it's so far up the track.0
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Ok, had a first play with my new $10 deal extreme meter last night. Treat the readings with caution.diy wrote:Bobbygloss wrote:After 30 mins on low, I put them on full power and only get around 10-15 mins before they drop to a low setting with a brief flicker off. But they will still run happily on medium for 30 mins to get home. It is the same for 3 torches and all the cells.
Any ideas why?
what voltage at the start, after 30 mins etc. also if you can measure the amps too that would help.
Cells that have been charged and stored for a few weeks 4.05-4.1V.
Cells which have been run for 1-2 hours (low power with occasional medium) 3.65-3.75V. (1 trustfire, 1 laptop cell)
Current readings in a 501b:
discharged cells: low 0.04, med 0.35, high 1.1
charged cells: low 0.05, med 0.45, high 1.2
Definitely never reached the 1.4 amps minimum that I expected after reading on here. Could be a dodgy meter though.
I didn't manage to get any of them to drop out of high mode. I'll try and be a bit more scientific for the next test.0 -
So, i've been looking through this as I am going to be commuting a bit more on my bike soon and some will be down an un-lit country lane. I can't decide what will be the best type of light for me. I like the look of the powerful 900 lumen type but not sure if it'll be too much for what I need. I liked the look of the deal extreme light in the links above but the poster said they weren't water proof which seems a bit silly to me.
All these lights look the same too. I've also seen very similar lights on the 'bay for about £20 - £30. Then there is mtbbatteries that sell the same looking light too. Am I right in thinking that all of them will be much of a muchness?0 -
Bobbygloss wrote:Ok, had a first play with my new $10 deal extreme meter last night. Treat the readings with caution.
sound about right (a little low)Cells that have been charged and stored for a few weeks 4.05-4.1V.
That doesn't make sense. Low mode is .08A on pretty much all of my lights (more than 10 to compare) your lights should go 30 hours in low mode.Cells which have been run for 1-2 hours (low power with occasional medium) 3.65-3.75V. (1 trustfire, 1 laptop cell)
Would suggest you meter is under reading by about 20%. try a voltage test on a new AA or AAA. Should be 1.5v to 1.55vCurrent readings in a 501b:
discharged cells: low 0.04, med 0.35, high 1.1
charged cells: low 0.05, med 0.45, high 1.2I didn't manage to get any of them to drop out of high mode. I'll try and be a bit more scientific for the next test.
Current thinking is a loose connection0 -
wilkij1975 wrote:Am I right in thinking that all of them will be much of a muchness?
Not really there does seem to be a wide range of options. Lightmalls and manafont are probably the best places for quick delivery and consistent quality. A couple of torches on med/low will be more than adequate for your needs.0 -
If anyone has a magicshine with a p7 this vid shows how to replace with a t6.
http://www.youtube.com/user/jjziets?fea ... lPppCE2z_k
The downside is the optics are fairly poor.0 -
Got the trustfire 3t6 today. It seems like an excellent torch so far, but the body is slightly thicker than my other torches, meaning that it will not fit in any of my mounts, or a pipeclip. Has anyone with a similar torch found a mount that fits?
thanks0 -
you can get 25mm/1 inch clips as well as 22mm.0
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I recently got one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150668165202?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3748wt_1163
I was quite impressed when it arrived - a sealed battery pack and all working well. However I can't say that the two side lights really make any difference and seem to dim the main light every so slightly when turned on. They do help the spread a bit but as they are angled in, not as much as they could have done. The switch has an LED which changes colour according to the battery state and mine goes from blue to green within 20 minutes which, given the large battery pack, seems quite quick.
One good thing is that being ebay, I've complained and they've offered 60% back with no return required. Such is the power of the feedback system I guess.0 -
An additional 501B XML T6 torch arrived a couple of days ago from DX which took 34 days from order to delivery, not too much longer than the 19 days it took for the previous order in September. The driver is configured differently to my other 501B so it cycles "low, mid, high, strobe, SOS" rather than "high, mid, low, strobe, SOS" which is a bit annoying as I'd like both torches to be the same, I do prefer the cycle of the new torch but there's no guarantee I'd get the same again if I ordered another one. I don't have a multi meter so can't check the current draw but both torches seem exactly the same brightness on high with fully charged cells.
These two torches will do me for now although I'm sure I'll get more in the future when the next newfangled LED comes to market
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wilkij1975 wrote:So, i've been looking through this as I am going to be commuting a bit more on my bike soon and some will be down an un-lit country lane. I can't decide what will be the best type of light for me. I like the look of the powerful 900 lumen type but not sure if it'll be too much for what I need. I liked the look of the deal extreme light in the links above but the poster said they weren't water proof which seems a bit silly to me.
I'd definitely recommend the P7 that I linked to for country lane riding, as it has a great flood & although bright, won't annoy oncoming traffic as it's not all focused in one big spot. Not being waterproof is a big reason why they're so cheap, as it's little time consuming bits like this that bump the price up.
If you're a half competent DIYer & can wire a plug with ease, or change the washers on a tap, then smearing a bit of silicon over the end of a battery pack will be of little worry to you.
If however, you are a DIY numpty, then I'd go for the Magicshine 808e, which is the same light effectively, but comes with a waterproofed battery & rubber gromet in the headlamp body. It is £22.00 (or £55.00 if bought from the UK) more expensive though, whereas a tube of silicon is £3.00
P.S. There's no such thing as too much when it comes to being seen or seeing where you're going on a bike, more-so when on the road.0 -
I'd also recommend a flood for road riding.
But the P7 will definitely be dazzling to motorists on an otherwise dark road, use it on low when there's other traffic about and avoid the strobe (I rode towards someone with something very bright and strobing the other week and it was horrible. Disorienting and blinding).
I use an MJ-872, and it's definitely a step up in quality from the £30 T6 bike light. I use that on the lowest power level for 80% of the time, going up to level 2 for faster bits of the unlit country lanes I ride on. If there's other traffic about it's always on low, and if I forget to angle it down I still get cars flashing at me.
I tend do do half of my commutes by car and half by bike, and when driving I've noticed a few other cyclists with similar, very bright, lights. On the one hand it's good that they're lit up (unlike the muppet I routinely see on unlit 60mph roads with no lights....FFS!) but they don't seem to realise how blinding the lights can be if they're not angled considerately, especially when there are other cars, bikes and pedestrians about.0 -
Neal_ wrote:An additional 501B XML T6 torch arrived a couple of days ago from DX which took 34 days from order to delivery, not too much longer than the 19 days it took for the previous order in September. The driver is configured differently to my other 501B so it cycles "low, mid, high, strobe, SOS" rather than "high, mid, low, strobe, SOS" which is a bit annoying as I'd like both torches to be the same, I do prefer the cycle of the new torch but there's no guarantee I'd get the same again if I ordered another one. I don't have a multi meter so can't check the current draw but both torches seem exactly the same brightness on high with fully charged cells.
These two torches will do me for now although I'm sure I'll get more in the future when the next newfangled LED comes to market
are you absolutely certain there is no light difference. my 501 that goes in reveres order is a 2.4A. the others 1.5-1.8A0 -
Gwaredd wrote:P.S. There's no such thing as too much when it comes to being seen or seeing where you're going on a bike, more-so when on the road.
Can't agree with that. There have been loads of studies that show bright lights reduce a persons ability to judge speed and distance. There was a fashion among motorcyclist to use main beam when filtering. It was due to harmonisation rules which meant twin light bikes could only have one light on. Bikers thought more light = more likely to be seen.
You are more likely to be seen if you have lights attached to moving parts. For example a flasher on the lid coupled with a pair of light on low (still around 80-100 lumen each).
Also 80% of SMIDSY are really Sorry Mate I wasn't not looking or I was not expecting to see you or my brain is programmed not to expect to see you or I saw you but thought I could make it or I thought you'd stop.0 -
diy wrote:are you absolutely certain there is no light difference. my 501 that goes in reveres order is a 2.4A. the others 1.5-1.8A
I knew yours did that and was a 2.4A which is why I compared them, at varying distances they appear identical to me although the optics could have an effect and the LED on the new one is very slightly off centre. Any recommendations for a cheap but good enough multimeter?0
