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The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014

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  • I still need a decent quality battery pack (4 x 18650), but don't really want to pay £30 for one from Torchy. Can anyone recommend anything in the £15/£20 price range, ie Trustfire?

    Also, for info (and I may well just get this and sourcey own batteries), the solar storm bc1 battery box seems to be out of stock everywhere, but I came across this:

    http://www.dx.com/p/pannovo-b-c18-water ... ack-355547

    Any thoughts?
  • tincamantincaman Posts: 505
    I still need a decent quality battery pack (4 x 18650), but don't really want to pay £30 for one from Torchy. Can anyone recommend anything in the £15/£20 price range, ie Trustfire?

    Also, for info (and I may well just get this and sourcey own batteries), the solar storm bc1 battery box seems to be out of stock everywhere, but I came across this:

    http://www.dx.com/p/pannovo-b-c18-water ... ack-355547

    Any thoughts?

    This must be the new version Pannovo has been talking about elsewhere. Confused by the USB connector though, I thought standard USB is 5v, the output of this one is 8.4v
  • john2002john2002 Posts: 158
    tincaman wrote:
    I still need a decent quality battery pack (4 x 18650), but don't really want to pay £30 for one from Torchy. Can anyone recommend anything in the £15/£20 price range, ie Trustfire?

    Also, for info (and I may well just get this and sourcey own batteries), the solar storm bc1 battery box seems to be out of stock everywhere, but I came across this:

    http://www.dx.com/p/pannovo-b-c18-water ... ack-355547

    Any thoughts?

    This must be the new version Pannovo has been talking about elsewhere. Confused by the USB connector though, I thought standard USB is 5v, the output of this one is 8.4v

    Looks like it's 5v output from the USB. And 8.4v input and output from the other connector ie to charge it and to run a 8.4v light
    GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc 2011, Fixie, frankenbike
  • I saw a (road) cyclist last night with a rear light that gave out a really large pulse of light (almost like a cloud) - any idea would this have been?

    Rear lights - the best I've found are:

    https://www.niteflux.com/buy/red-zone-8/ - brilliantly bright but $150! (Australian product)

    or

    http://shop.seesense.cc/collections/all ... rear-light - the Elite option should be very bright, I've got one on the way to me - but again very expensive (£80)!

    and I recently saw this on Kickstarter

    https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/73 ... hts-made-i - looks awesome but yet again $130 delivered.

    The best cheaper light I've come across is the Moon Shield 60 - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/moon-shield-60- ... ear-light/ (could be cheaper elsewhere, somewhere had them for about £18 for a while) - very good, but not in the same league as the Niteflux above)

    I've also got some £10 200 lumen 501b red led torches, and stick a fenix white diffuser on it - 360 degree visibilty - http://www.fenixtorch.co.uk/Shop/Access ... r-Tip.html - these work great on the front too with a white led 501b, not too bright too look at but very very visible all round.

    Does anyone know of better?
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    I still need a decent quality battery pack (4 x 18650), but don't really want to pay £30 for one from Torchy. Can anyone recommend anything in the £15/£20 price range, ie Trustfire?

    Also, for info (and I may well just get this and sourcey own batteries), the solar storm bc1 battery box seems to be out of stock everywhere, but I came across this:

    http://www.dx.com/p/pannovo-b-c18-water ... ack-355547

    Any thoughts?

    I have the previous version without the USB adapter. Nice, if a little heavy. You do have to use protected cells with it (mine didn't like shorter batteries) and wedge some tissue between the batteries to stop the whole thing rattling/buzzing.

    Not to sure about this USB version. Having that USB cable dangling unused from the battery would offend my sense of aesthetics (not to mention getting water and dirt in the end).
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    davidmt83 wrote:
    Ouija wrote:
    The more emitters, the more floody the lights tend to get. A single emitter, in a single reflector, running at almost full ampage tends to give more throw than multiple emitters in multiple small reflectors running at medium ampage per emitter

    Can you recommend a bar mounted single emitter?

    For single emitters i'd go for something that's 8.4v and with a decent sized reflector to really focus and throw the light some distance. A torch like the C8 would also work but with torches the single battery struggles to power the emitter at 3 amps, and that's if the emitter even tries to draw that much.

    One of my favourites is this Sanguan/HI-MAX unit with OP reflector.

    _dsc4781.jpg

    Noticeably brighter than the Magicshine copies i've owned (four) in a similar size and emitter. The batteries only good for about 1.5hrs on high though (it's only real achilles heel).

    I did some comparison shots a while back of this head unit against a smaller more modern XM-L2 unit...

    new_style_model_-_1000-lumen_mini_black_color_case_cree_xm-lu2_4modes_function_front_bicycle_light_4_.jpg

    Despite having a smooth reflector and a more powerful XM-L2 emitter the newer light tended to spread light over everything more thinly.....

    DSCF0588_zps39f8343c.jpg

    Whereas the Sanguan/HI-MAX had more punch down the center of the beam for more throw....

    DSCF0589_zps6d66a333.jpg

    If it's dry, i'll pop back out tomorrow night and update the pics (try the Trustfire X2 and some torches and see how each performs over longer distances).
  • Ouija wrote:
    If it's dry, i'll pop back out tomorrow night and update the pics (try the Trustfire X2 and some torches and see how each performs over longer distances).
    That'd be really appreciated. It'd save me returning anything if the gains are minimal or aren't realistic at this price point. I suppose on narrow country lanes going at a fare speed I thought distance would be more beneficial over spread of light - saying that a fox from a hedge will probably take me out now!
    Cannondale Synapse 105 Disc
  • johnmcl7johnmcl7 Posts: 158
    I was reading back a few pages looking for torch recommendations and I saw some links to XP-L LEDs, do I understand it correctly that the XP-L's offer similar performance to the XML2's? I'm thinking of order a couple of these:

    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023732

    I don't want to use Lightmalls as they mucked up the last order and refused to sort it out in any way, there doesn't seem to be much in the way of other reliable retailers?

    John
  • tincamantincaman Posts: 505
    Johnmcl7 wrote:
    I was reading back a few pages looking for torch recommendations and I saw some links to XP-L LEDs, do I understand it correctly that the XP-L's offer similar performance to the XML2's? I'm thinking of order a couple of these:

    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023732

    I don't want to use Lightmalls as they mucked up the last order and refused to sort it out in any way, there doesn't seem to be much in the way of other reliable retailers?

    John

    Yes not too exciting, within a few % of performance. They are only worth getting if they are cheaper or in a multi led head where you might have a small gain in run-times over XML2
  • diydiy Posts: 6,473
    they (XP-L) are much smaller (2/3rds the size) than the XM-L2 and tests are showing its more of a thrower, so could be spottier as the lumen/mm2 is much higher. I say could be as it also features a dome, so this might change it completely. Its more than a few % brighter - but I think its replacing the XP-G2 not the XM-L2.

    However the performance claims are more than a few %. (see 3.8A fan cooled test below:
    xml2vsxpl3a_zps0fd7667f.jpg


    Kaidomain are reliable and often sell units with good drivers. DX is another reliable source, but the last batch I had from DX had a mix of good and bad drivers (2.5A down to 1.8A) and different mode sequences. I've never had problems with LM selling torches and the last lot I had were among the best quality.
  • johnmcl7johnmcl7 Posts: 158
    Lightmall shipped the wrong torch and refused to do anything about it, the one they sent was pretty much useless (single mode XML-U3 instead of a 5 mode XML2-T6, burned through my batteries so fast it was worthless) but they claimed it was still a torch and the best they'd do is two dollars off another order. I don't mind companies making mistakes but when it take a while to ship and they won't correct it, I don't have much faith using them again.

    I've ordered a few from Kaidomain, one XP-L to see what it's like and three with XML2's as they're handy to have.

    John
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    edited November 2015
    Stopped to take some snaps of various lights on my commute home at 4.00am earlier this week. Was hoping for some dry shots but it always seems to be raining or just rained whenever i get out of work and dark surfaces do tend to just suck up light (usually the dimmer, peripheral light goes first, leaving you just the spot). But i imagine most people will be using these lights in winter conditions anyway. But the general rule of requiring twice as much light in the wet than in the dry applies.

    I aimed all the lights horizontally to see how much throw they had. What looks like the lights hot spots on the grass isn't, it's just the lower part of the beam catching the grass and overloading the cameras sensor (the hot spots are actually aimed at a fence 300 feet away on the other side of a junction).

    Trustfire A8 (XM-L T6, 4.2v, SMO)
    TrustfireA8_thumb_zps0a7ca017.jpg


    Ultrafire 502 (XM-L2, 4.2v, SMO at 2.8 amps)
    Torch502_thumb_zpsbdf4adc9.jpg


    MagicShine Clone (XM-L T6, 8.4v, SMO)
    MagicClone_thumb_zps97c47e89.jpg


    Sanguan/HI-MAX (XM-L T6, 8.4v, OP)
    Sanguan_thumb_zpsf1eb4a73.jpg


    GlowRing light (XM-L2, 8.4v, SMO)
    GlowRing_thumb_zps997e1283.jpg


    Inton x2 (XM-L T6, 8.4v, OP)
    Inton2_thumb_zpsd036104e.jpg


    Trustfire x2 (XM-L2, 8.4v, SMO) with one light covered (so only putting out the same sort of beam as the single head units)
    Trustfirex21_thumb_zpsa746c8ea.jpg


    Trustfire x2 (XM-L2, 8.4v, SMO) Both beams
    Trustfirex22_thumb_zpsb24d1c08.jpg

    Needless to say the 2000 lumen twin head units tend to be more floody (the Inton less so due to it's larger, more focused reflectors), with more of the edge of the beams touching the grass and illuminating everything, but don't necessarily throw the light any further. Certainly no more than the 1000 lumen single head units which tend to have larger reflectors and spill less light sideways/downwards.

    Under normal conditions i wouldn't have the lights parallel to the ground anyway, but point the beam downwards slightly so that the hot spots are visible 10 to 20 feet away (again, what looks like spots in the photos are just the edge of the conical beams clipping the ground, i actually had the Trustfire X2 aimed slightly upwards at the sky as it overloaded the camera too much).
  • That's really useful Ouija!

    Essentially we're saying I should stop complaining as the Trustfire x2 / Torchy Oriole 2x T6 is the best. Comparing it against the single emitter you suggested (Sanguan) shows it's still the best option. Thanks.
    Cannondale Synapse 105 Disc
  • davidmt83 wrote:
    That's really useful Ouija!

    Essentially we're saying I should stop complaining as the Trustfire x2 / Torchy Oriole 2x T6 is the best. Comparing it against the single emitter you suggested (Sanguan) shows it's still the best option. Thanks.

    No complaints with my Torchy Oriole so far!
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    davidmt83 wrote:
    That's really useful Ouija!

    Essentially we're saying I should stop complaining as the Trustfire x2 / Torchy Oriole 2x T6 is the best. Comparing it against the single emitter you suggested (Sanguan) shows it's still the best option. Thanks.

    Yeah. All the pictures came out a little dark as the junction and fence were quite visible to me but don't appear to be there in the pics. I should of increased exposure time on the camera, me thinks (not a photographer) or increased gamma in a paint program. But it doesn't really matter as the settings were the same for all shots so it gives an honest comparison between the lights. May do them again with the hot spots aimed at the ground for a comparison of how they light up near/mid distance stuff.

    The Inton and Trustfires approach to trying to light up distant objects is simple brute force (throw a large enough quantity of light in every direction and a certain percentage of it is going to travel far enough forwards), whereas the single emitters tended to have more focused beams that concentrated their lesser (1000 lumen) light into a tighter conical beam (less of which touched the grass). Because of this i could see the fence on the other side of the road quite well with the single emitters but the grass in between was poorly lit at mid distance and almost nothing to the sides. This is where the Trustfire x3 or two single heads mounted either side of the stem would come in handy as you can aim one off in the distance and one closer to the wheel for a more complete solution. It's no surprise then that i have two of each of the single emitter lights shown for just this reason.

    In fact, i may do some pictures with two of each light aimed at different distances as a comparison. Not only do you get 2000 lumen output this way, so the Trustfire doesn't walk away with the show, but you also get to do something the trustfire can't and that's illuminate two different places at once (near/far). And if you aim both at the same spot, you get the 2000 lumen output of the Trustfire/Oriole but with a lot more throw as you have two much tighter beams with less flood.

    I did have two Trustfire/Oriole's mounted on my mountain bike for a while last year to do much the same thing but 4000 lumens was overkill (about 3600 in reality)...... and i think i permanently blinded some wildlife......... and walkers. :oops:
  • diydiy Posts: 6,473
    What is nice with those test shots is the camera is on manual, so the exposure ISO and F setting (albeit probably simulated) are consistent between shots. The only real variable between the different lights is the current.
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    edited November 2015
    Today is payday....

    Since doing the light test i thought i'd treat myself to something new to play with...

    2xcree_xm-l2_2500-lumen_with_2_group_modes_led_bicycle_light_lamp_zps15a257d9.jpg

    .. a cheapie at £13 but it has choice of two sets of modes (Set1= Low, Mid, High and a SOS if button pressed for 3 seconds) or 10 brightness modes if the button is pressed for 8 seconds. Also has an interesting lense. At £13 for just the head unit it's disposable if it turns out to be censored . Only ordered it as an extra while ordering this....

    img_0390_1_zps4f01db1c.jpg

    A Trustfire with three adjustable units controlled by one remote switch and probably a decent battery pack. Actually ordered this a couple of months back from DealExtreme but it never turned up (the last few orders from DX have failed to turn up so i'm just not ordering from them again). Never had a problem with Lightmalls so hopefully this one will turn up.

    I'm hoping it's going to be just like their x2 head only with the advantage of directional beams. Only thing i'm not keen on is the purple back plates and the fact there is no way to dim the output of any of the units (it's one, two or three units on full brightness only). Figure i'll point the the unit that stays on in the lowest mode at the front wheel of the bike and have the other two pointing up the road/trail and dip down to the single when coming across traffic.
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    diy wrote:
    What is nice with those test shots is the camera is on manual, so the exposure ISO and F setting (albeit probably simulated) are consistent between shots. The only real variable between the different lights is the current.

    Yeah. I switched off all the automatic scene detection, flash and other "auto" features of the camera and just left it on the same frame and exposure settings which is probably why they came out a little darker than they appeared to the naked eye. Probably going to knock the exposure setting up one unit the next time before i take the pics (but then it would be hard to do a fair comparison with the pics i've already done so maybe not.... decisions, decisions.....).
  • Just thought I'd post this, mainly as it struck me that it has a surprisingly nicely engineered bracket:
    LICREBL100_P1.jpg
    Source: http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/LICREBL100/cree-860-lumens-xm-l-led-bl100-bike-light-kit
    Manual / tecnical info: http://www.ferei.com/uploadfile/Download/201408181416210450.jpg

    Plus, having all those power levels (10-20-30-40-50-60-70-80-100%) seems neat, and although the bumph says XM-L the emitter in the picture looks to me like an XM-L2 (white substrate, not green).
    Last but not least, the price on the original manufacturer's website of 499 CNY translates to ~£52, so £40 from a reputable UK bike shop seems a pretty good price. Only a 2*18650 pack though...
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    edited November 2015
    After comparing two 2000 lumen twin head units against 1000 lumen (or less) single head units (see above) i thought it might be interesting to compare the two again using two of the same single head units, since i own two of each. So the lumen output should be roughly the same (upto 2000), only with different beam patterns. This time i pointed the center of the beams at the side of a football clubhouse. Again, what looks like hotspots on the grass in some of the brighter pics is just the edge of the beam clipping the ground close to the camera and overloading it. The center of the beams were aimed square at the side of the building.....

    x2 Ultrafire 502 torches running at 2.8 amps. 1xSMO + 1xOP

    Club_Torches_zps9ae73a2c.jpg
    Not the brightest (probably only 1200/1400 lumen) but more than bright enough to see on dark country lanes.


    x2 Magicshine clones with SMO reflectors.....

    Club_magic_zps14a442a3.jpg
    Very spotty with almost nothing going out to the sides due to the big SMO reflectors focsing the beam. But, conversely, excellent throw. The only one to "white out" the side of the wall and overload the camera. Probably not much use off road where you need more flood from two bar mounted lights.


    x2 Glowring lights. SMO reflectors.....

    Club_Glow_zps550680ae.jpg
    Quite floody considering they are SMO reflectors. But the small cup size of the reflectors allows light to just spill out without much focusing. They also look insanely cool with the two glowrings on and the two green rear power rings lit up (people keep asking me what they are). Good little commuter lights that can light up a country lane but difficult to change modes on the fly if your trying to dip them for oncoming traffic.


    x2 Sanguan/HI-MAX with OP reflectors

    Club_Sanguan_zps14b11fe9.jpg
    Almost as much throw as the Magicshine clones but the OP reflectors help scatter a little more light sideways/downwards and a little less down the central spot. I've always found these an excellent mix between overly floody and overly spotty lights. A good all rounder.


    Inton X2 with OP reflectors.

    Club_Inton_zps1b7bd6d9.jpg
    Despite having two large reflectors, this errs more on the side of flood than spot, thanks to the OP reflectors. A little like the Sanguans but with a larger central spot with a yellowish caste (reminds me of my old yellow Halogen lights if you could of ramped them up to 2000 lumens). The spot has diffused so much by the time it hits the wall that it's considerably dimmer than the edge of the beam clipping into the ground closer to the camera.


    Trustfire/Oriole x2 with SMO reflectors

    Club_TrustfireX2_zps56728342.jpg
    More flood than spot with a harsh blue/white light (compared to the similarly powered Inton). Look carefully and you can see rings in the beam on the grass, but you really don't notice them when riding around.

    Hope the pics are useful....
  • -Archie--Archie- Posts: 152
    Ouija wrote:
    Hope the pics are useful....
    Many thanks for the comparison!

    But I have the impression that the lights were aimed at different angles: pictures of Magicshine clones & Sanguan/HI-MAX show the hotspot on the wall, while Inton & Trustfire/Oriole have hotspot on the grass...
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    -Archie- wrote:
    Ouija wrote:
    Hope the pics are useful....
    Many thanks for the comparison!

    But I have the impression that the lights were aimed at different angles: pictures of Magicshine clones & Sanguan/HI-MAX show the hotspot on the wall, while Inton & Trustfire/Oriole have hotspot on the grass...
    Ouija wrote:
    Again, what looks like hotspots on the grass in some of the brighter pics is just the edge of the beam clipping the ground close to the camera and overloading it.

    Look carefully and you'll see ALL the lights appear to put a hotspot at the same position on the grass, it's simply that with the two brightest lights the bit on the grass is bright enough to overload the camera into a "white out" in that area while the diffuse hotspot much further off on the wall barely registers (because those two lights are all flood and spill more light sideways and downwards than forwards). The Magicshine and Sanguan are the complete opposite with very focused beams that throw more forwards and little sideways or down (hence the reason their hot spot on the wall is brighter than the little bit of hot spot you can just see on the grass before the clubhouse).

    That was the whole point of the pics. To demonstrate the different beam patterns and how they look in real world circumstances. All 10 lights were mounted sideways on the top of a vertical pole taped to a goal post and could only rotate left and right, not up and down and were pre-aimed at the side wall of the clubhouse. Unfortunately, i had to take the pictures freestanding as i don't have any way of mounting my camera in a steady position. I just rested my arm on the handlebars of my bike to steady my aim which is why each picture is from a little different position (i had to keep putting the camera away as i hooked up each set of lights in turn to the battery pack).
  • -Archie--Archie- Posts: 152
    Ouija wrote:
    Look carefully and you'll see ALL the lights appear to put a hotspot at the same position on the grass, it's simply that with the two brightest lights the bit on the grass is bright enough to overload the camera
    Ok, thanks for explanation.
    That was the whole point of the pics. To demonstrate the different beam patterns and how they look in real world circumstances.
    Sure. I just get wrong impression initially. Valuable pics!
  • diydiy Posts: 6,473
    You'll have to start overlaying the histograms soon ;)

    Getting very hard to spot the difference. Nice to see £5 torches are still hard to beat (though I accept run time at 2.8A is not going to be much over the hour).
  • kiniookinioo Posts: 776
    Ouija wrote:
    Today is payday....

    Since doing the light test i thought i'd treat myself to something new to play with...

    2xcree_xm-l2_2500-lumen_with_2_group_modes_led_bicycle_light_lamp.jpg

    .. a cheapie at £13 but it has choice of two sets of modes (Set1= Low, Mid, High and a SOS if button pressed for 3 seconds) or 10 brightness modes if the button is pressed for 8 seconds. Also has an interesting lense. At £13 for just the head unit it's disposable if it turns out to be censored . Only ordered it as an extra while ordering this....

    img_0386_3.jpgimg_0384_4.jpg

    A Trustfire with three adjustable units controlled by one remote switch and probably a decent battery pack. Actually ordered this a couple of months back from DealExtreme but it never turned up (the last few orders from DX have failed to turn up so i'm just not ordering from them again). Never had a problem with Lightmalls so hopefully this one will turn up.

    I'm hoping it's going to be just like their x2 head only with the advantage of directional beams. Only thing i'm not keen on is the purple back plates and the fact there is no way to dim the output of any of the units (it's one, two or three units on full brightness only). Figure i'll point the the unit that stays on in the lowest mode at the front wheel of the bike and have the other two pointing up the road/trail and dip down to the single when coming across traffic.

    Where did you get this triple set unit from here in UK ??
    Any link ??

    Thanks,

    Chris
  • kiwimattkiwimatt Posts: 208
    diy wrote:
    Nice to see £5 torches are still hard to beat

    Yep. Cheered me up to the extent that I put 2 of them back on the commuter and had a battery pack free day :)
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    edited November 2015
    -Archie- wrote:
    Ouija wrote:
    Look carefully and you'll see ALL the lights appear to put a hotspot at the same position on the grass, it's simply that with the two brightest lights the bit on the grass is bright enough to overload the camera
    Ok, thanks for explanation.
    That was the whole point of the pics. To demonstrate the different beam patterns and how they look in real world circumstances.
    Sure. I just get wrong impression initially. Valuable pics!

    I think the thing people must understand about the floody Inton and Trustfire/Oriole is that the spot diameter is so large it's only really visible when taking photos close up to something. At the distances involved in the pics i've posted the top of the spot has expanded until it's gone completely over the roof of the clubhouse, the bottom of the spot is cutting a V shaped wedge along the grass (which is wet, reflective and closer to the camera, so appears brighter and round due to perspective) and the edges of the spot have reached most of the way to either side of the building, almost completely engulfing it. In other words, no longer a visible spot any more (and the definition of "flood" is a light with no spot).

    The Magicshine clone on the other hand, despite the distance, has only expanded out to be about 4/5 feet wide at that distance, so only illuminating a small section of the wall (so the edges are still quite visible within the confines of the building).

    Which gives me an idea for another test i might pop out and do in the next few hours.

    Mount the Trustfire and two MS clones on either side of my bike bars.
    Aim the center of their hotspots at the door handle of the clubhouse door.
    Ducktape the camera to the top of the Trustfire (which is flat topped) so the angle is the same in each shot and set it to take a picture automatically every 10 seconds.
    Then switch each light on in turn, wait till the camera takes a picture of it and then take 5 steps back.... repeat.

    This way i should end up with every odd numbered JPG the camera takes being of the MS clones getting further away from the wall and every even numbered JPG being the Trustfire moving away. I could then take the frames and join them together into two GIF animations (probably a bit jerky but will be an effective comparison to see how far back you get before the Trustfires hot spot isn't even visible any more).

    Right, wheres that ducktape gone......
  • OuijaOuija Posts: 1,386
    edited November 2014
    So here goes.....

    MSTF100_zpsxn0mbned.gif

    Magicshine clones with SMO reflectors on the left, Trustfire/Oriole x2 on the right.

    Things to note. There is very little difference between spots when only 6 feet from the door (both centered at doorknob height).

    MSC0890_v1_zps0fbac87e.jpg
    TRU0891_v1_zps26174dbd.jpg


    However, 50 feet away the Trustfires more floody aproach means the spots starting to disappear...

    MSC0900_v1_zps3b41edd7.jpg
    TRU0901_v1_zps05d60a01.jpg


    At around 90/100 feet the lower half of the spot clipping the grass closer to the camera is brighter than the center of the spot hitting the side of the building, creating the illusion of the false spot i've mentioned in the last few posts...

    MSC0906_v1_zpse70c2034.jpg
    TRU0907_v1_zps75633742.jpg


    At 150 feet out even the x2 Magicshine clones more focused beam is starting to dissipate, with the lower edge creating a brighter spot on the grass than on the building and the Trustfire is so spotless at this point that the false spot immediately in front of the camera appears as the only real bright thing in the frame.

    MSC0914_v1_zps0b0f9e91.jpg
    TRU0915_v1_zpsbc31618e.jpg

    At 230/300 feet away all spots have dissappeared save for the edges clipping the grass....

    MSC0920_v1_zps1ca16e58.jpg
    TRU0921_v1_zpsdc04c8e7.jpg

    Two very different types of light. One almost pure flood, the other pure spot.

    Though it does beg the question.. "Who the hell needs to see that far".

    Seriously, the sort of distances involved here are considerably further than most car headlights aim at on full beam (and they go a lot faster than the average bicycle). Most cyclists angle the lights down to point just 20 or 30 feet in front of them (even less, in some cases). And at those sort of distances the spot on the Trustfire is still quite strong and the Magicshine clones are just tiny pin bright dots. Which makes the SMO Magicshine clones terrible for close/medium work IMO. If you go for two of those lights, it's important to mitigate them by getting versions with OP reflectors instead, so they are more like the Sanguan/Hi-MAX beam patterns (see previous page).
  • -Archie--Archie- Posts: 152
    Ouija wrote:
    So here goes.....
    Thanks again for your efforts: well done!
    Though it does beg the question.. "Who the hell needs to see that far".
    I think, I can answer that question. Several years ago, I've specifically bought such MagicShine clone with smooth reflector to be used on my road bike. At that time, I've had two original MJ-808 on my MTB bike, and wanted something with narrower beam. After long-time experience, I'd say it was right decision: on my evening rides and all-night trips, such light is really useful: it's possible to see the road far enough to maintain 'daytime' speed, while some spill is sufficient to clearly see the edges...
  • Ouija wrote:
    TRU0891_v1_zps26174dbd.jpg
    I really hoped I'd read 'and then a woman came out of the loo and got the shock of her life!' :D
    Cannondale Synapse 105 Disc
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