The big LIGHTS thread 2011-2014
Comments
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Johnmcl7 wrote:I was reading back a few pages looking for torch recommendations and I saw some links to XP-L LEDs, do I understand it correctly that the XP-L's offer similar performance to the XML2's? I'm thinking of order a couple of these:
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023732
I don't want to use Lightmalls as they mucked up the last order and refused to sort it out in any way, there doesn't seem to be much in the way of other reliable retailers?
John
Yes not too exciting, within a few % of performance. They are only worth getting if they are cheaper or in a multi led head where you might have a small gain in run-times over XML20 -
they (XP-L) are much smaller (2/3rds the size) than the XM-L2 and tests are showing its more of a thrower, so could be spottier as the lumen/mm2 is much higher. I say could be as it also features a dome, so this might change it completely. Its more than a few % brighter - but I think its replacing the XP-G2 not the XM-L2.
However the performance claims are more than a few %. (see 3.8A fan cooled test below:
Kaidomain are reliable and often sell units with good drivers. DX is another reliable source, but the last batch I had from DX had a mix of good and bad drivers (2.5A down to 1.8A) and different mode sequences. I've never had problems with LM selling torches and the last lot I had were among the best quality.0 -
Lightmall shipped the wrong torch and refused to do anything about it, the one they sent was pretty much useless (single mode XML-U3 instead of a 5 mode XML2-T6, burned through my batteries so fast it was worthless) but they claimed it was still a torch and the best they'd do is two dollars off another order. I don't mind companies making mistakes but when it take a while to ship and they won't correct it, I don't have much faith using them again.
I've ordered a few from Kaidomain, one XP-L to see what it's like and three with XML2's as they're handy to have.
John0 -
Stopped to take some snaps of various lights on my commute home at 4.00am earlier this week. Was hoping for some dry shots but it always seems to be raining or just rained whenever i get out of work and dark surfaces do tend to just suck up light (usually the dimmer, peripheral light goes first, leaving you just the spot). But i imagine most people will be using these lights in winter conditions anyway. But the general rule of requiring twice as much light in the wet than in the dry applies.
I aimed all the lights horizontally to see how much throw they had. What looks like the lights hot spots on the grass isn't, it's just the lower part of the beam catching the grass and overloading the cameras sensor (the hot spots are actually aimed at a fence 300 feet away on the other side of a junction).
Trustfire A8 (XM-L T6, 4.2v, SMO)
Ultrafire 502 (XM-L2, 4.2v, SMO at 2.8 amps)
MagicShine Clone (XM-L T6, 8.4v, SMO)
Sanguan/HI-MAX (XM-L T6, 8.4v, OP)
GlowRing light (XM-L2, 8.4v, SMO)
Inton x2 (XM-L T6, 8.4v, OP)
Trustfire x2 (XM-L2, 8.4v, SMO) with one light covered (so only putting out the same sort of beam as the single head units)
Trustfire x2 (XM-L2, 8.4v, SMO) Both beams
Needless to say the 2000 lumen twin head units tend to be more floody (the Inton less so due to it's larger, more focused reflectors), with more of the edge of the beams touching the grass and illuminating everything, but don't necessarily throw the light any further. Certainly no more than the 1000 lumen single head units which tend to have larger reflectors and spill less light sideways/downwards.
Under normal conditions i wouldn't have the lights parallel to the ground anyway, but point the beam downwards slightly so that the hot spots are visible 10 to 20 feet away (again, what looks like spots in the photos are just the edge of the conical beams clipping the ground, i actually had the Trustfire X2 aimed slightly upwards at the sky as it overloaded the camera too much).0 -
davidmt83 wrote:That's really useful Ouija!
Essentially we're saying I should stop complaining as the Trustfire x2 / Torchy Oriole 2x T6 is the best. Comparing it against the single emitter you suggested (Sanguan) shows it's still the best option. Thanks.
No complaints with my Torchy Oriole so far!0 -
davidmt83 wrote:That's really useful Ouija!
Essentially we're saying I should stop complaining as the Trustfire x2 / Torchy Oriole 2x T6 is the best. Comparing it against the single emitter you suggested (Sanguan) shows it's still the best option. Thanks.
Yeah. All the pictures came out a little dark as the junction and fence were quite visible to me but don't appear to be there in the pics. I should of increased exposure time on the camera, me thinks (not a photographer) or increased gamma in a paint program. But it doesn't really matter as the settings were the same for all shots so it gives an honest comparison between the lights. May do them again with the hot spots aimed at the ground for a comparison of how they light up near/mid distance stuff.
The Inton and Trustfires approach to trying to light up distant objects is simple brute force (throw a large enough quantity of light in every direction and a certain percentage of it is going to travel far enough forwards), whereas the single emitters tended to have more focused beams that concentrated their lesser (1000 lumen) light into a tighter conical beam (less of which touched the grass). Because of this i could see the fence on the other side of the road quite well with the single emitters but the grass in between was poorly lit at mid distance and almost nothing to the sides. This is where the Trustfire x3 or two single heads mounted either side of the stem would come in handy as you can aim one off in the distance and one closer to the wheel for a more complete solution. It's no surprise then that i have two of each of the single emitter lights shown for just this reason.
In fact, i may do some pictures with two of each light aimed at different distances as a comparison. Not only do you get 2000 lumen output this way, so the Trustfire doesn't walk away with the show, but you also get to do something the trustfire can't and that's illuminate two different places at once (near/far). And if you aim both at the same spot, you get the 2000 lumen output of the Trustfire/Oriole but with a lot more throw as you have two much tighter beams with less flood.
I did have two Trustfire/Oriole's mounted on my mountain bike for a while last year to do much the same thing but 4000 lumens was overkill (about 3600 in reality)...... and i think i permanently blinded some wildlife......... and walkers. :oops:0 -
What is nice with those test shots is the camera is on manual, so the exposure ISO and F setting (albeit probably simulated) are consistent between shots. The only real variable between the different lights is the current.0
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Today is payday....
Since doing the light test i thought i'd treat myself to something new to play with...
.. a cheapie at £13 but it has choice of two sets of modes (Set1= Low, Mid, High and a SOS if button pressed for 3 seconds) or 10 brightness modes if the button is pressed for 8 seconds. Also has an interesting lense. At £13 for just the head unit it's disposable if it turns out to be crap. Only ordered it as an extra while ordering this....
A Trustfire with three adjustable units controlled by one remote switch and probably a decent battery pack. Actually ordered this a couple of months back from DealExtreme but it never turned up (the last few orders from DX have failed to turn up so i'm just not ordering from them again). Never had a problem with Lightmalls so hopefully this one will turn up.
I'm hoping it's going to be just like their x2 head only with the advantage of directional beams. Only thing i'm not keen on is the purple back plates and the fact there is no way to dim the output of any of the units (it's one, two or three units on full brightness only). Figure i'll point the the unit that stays on in the lowest mode at the front wheel of the bike and have the other two pointing up the road/trail and dip down to the single when coming across traffic.0 -
diy wrote:What is nice with those test shots is the camera is on manual, so the exposure ISO and F setting (albeit probably simulated) are consistent between shots. The only real variable between the different lights is the current.
Yeah. I switched off all the automatic scene detection, flash and other "auto" features of the camera and just left it on the same frame and exposure settings which is probably why they came out a little darker than they appeared to the naked eye. Probably going to knock the exposure setting up one unit the next time before i take the pics (but then it would be hard to do a fair comparison with the pics i've already done so maybe not.... decisions, decisions.....).0 -
Just thought I'd post this, mainly as it struck me that it has a surprisingly nicely engineered bracket:
Source: http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/LICREBL100/cree-860-lumens-xm-l-led-bl100-bike-light-kit
Manual / tecnical info: http://www.ferei.com/uploadfile/Download/201408181416210450.jpg
Plus, having all those power levels (10-20-30-40-50-60-70-80-100%) seems neat, and although the bumph says XM-L the emitter in the picture looks to me like an XM-L2 (white substrate, not green).
Last but not least, the price on the original manufacturer's website of 499 CNY translates to ~£52, so £40 from a reputable UK bike shop seems a pretty good price. Only a 2*18650 pack though...0 -
After comparing two 2000 lumen twin head units against 1000 lumen (or less) single head units (see above) i thought it might be interesting to compare the two again using two of the same single head units, since i own two of each. So the lumen output should be roughly the same (upto 2000), only with different beam patterns. This time i pointed the center of the beams at the side of a football clubhouse. Again, what looks like hotspots on the grass in some of the brighter pics is just the edge of the beam clipping the ground close to the camera and overloading it. The center of the beams were aimed square at the side of the building.....
x2 Ultrafire 502 torches running at 2.8 amps. 1xSMO + 1xOP
Not the brightest (probably only 1200/1400 lumen) but more than bright enough to see on dark country lanes.
x2 Magicshine clones with SMO reflectors.....
Very spotty with almost nothing going out to the sides due to the big SMO reflectors focsing the beam. But, conversely, excellent throw. The only one to "white out" the side of the wall and overload the camera. Probably not much use off road where you need more flood from two bar mounted lights.
x2 Glowring lights. SMO reflectors.....
Quite floody considering they are SMO reflectors. But the small cup size of the reflectors allows light to just spill out without much focusing. They also look insanely cool with the two glowrings on and the two green rear power rings lit up (people keep asking me what they are). Good little commuter lights that can light up a country lane but difficult to change modes on the fly if your trying to dip them for oncoming traffic.
x2 Sanguan/HI-MAX with OP reflectors
Almost as much throw as the Magicshine clones but the OP reflectors help scatter a little more light sideways/downwards and a little less down the central spot. I've always found these an excellent mix between overly floody and overly spotty lights. A good all rounder.
Inton X2 with OP reflectors.
Despite having two large reflectors, this errs more on the side of flood than spot, thanks to the OP reflectors. A little like the Sanguans but with a larger central spot with a yellowish caste (reminds me of my old yellow Halogen lights if you could of ramped them up to 2000 lumens). The spot has diffused so much by the time it hits the wall that it's considerably dimmer than the edge of the beam clipping into the ground closer to the camera.
Trustfire/Oriole x2 with SMO reflectors
More flood than spot with a harsh blue/white light (compared to the similarly powered Inton). Look carefully and you can see rings in the beam on the grass, but you really don't notice them when riding around.
Hope the pics are useful....0 -
Many thanks for the comparison!Ouija wrote:Hope the pics are useful....
But I have the impression that the lights were aimed at different angles: pictures of Magicshine clones & Sanguan/HI-MAX show the hotspot on the wall, while Inton & Trustfire/Oriole have hotspot on the grass...0 -
-Archie- wrote:
Many thanks for the comparison!Ouija wrote:Hope the pics are useful....
But I have the impression that the lights were aimed at different angles: pictures of Magicshine clones & Sanguan/HI-MAX show the hotspot on the wall, while Inton & Trustfire/Oriole have hotspot on the grass...Ouija wrote:Again, what looks like hotspots on the grass in some of the brighter pics is just the edge of the beam clipping the ground close to the camera and overloading it.
Look carefully and you'll see ALL the lights appear to put a hotspot at the same position on the grass, it's simply that with the two brightest lights the bit on the grass is bright enough to overload the camera into a "white out" in that area while the diffuse hotspot much further off on the wall barely registers (because those two lights are all flood and spill more light sideways and downwards than forwards). The Magicshine and Sanguan are the complete opposite with very focused beams that throw more forwards and little sideways or down (hence the reason their hot spot on the wall is brighter than the little bit of hot spot you can just see on the grass before the clubhouse).
That was the whole point of the pics. To demonstrate the different beam patterns and how they look in real world circumstances. All 10 lights were mounted sideways on the top of a vertical pole taped to a goal post and could only rotate left and right, not up and down and were pre-aimed at the side wall of the clubhouse. Unfortunately, i had to take the pictures freestanding as i don't have any way of mounting my camera in a steady position. I just rested my arm on the handlebars of my bike to steady my aim which is why each picture is from a little different position (i had to keep putting the camera away as i hooked up each set of lights in turn to the battery pack).0 -
Ok, thanks for explanation.Ouija wrote:Look carefully and you'll see ALL the lights appear to put a hotspot at the same position on the grass, it's simply that with the two brightest lights the bit on the grass is bright enough to overload the camera
Sure. I just get wrong impression initially. Valuable pics!That was the whole point of the pics. To demonstrate the different beam patterns and how they look in real world circumstances.0 -
You'll have to start overlaying the histograms soon
Getting very hard to spot the difference. Nice to see £5 torches are still hard to beat (though I accept run time at 2.8A is not going to be much over the hour).0 -
Ouija wrote:Today is payday....
Since doing the light test i thought i'd treat myself to something new to play with...
.. a cheapie at £13 but it has choice of two sets of modes (Set1= Low, Mid, High and a SOS if button pressed for 3 seconds) or 10 brightness modes if the button is pressed for 8 seconds. Also has an interesting lense. At £13 for just the head unit it's disposable if it turns out to be crap. Only ordered it as an extra while ordering this....
A Trustfire with three adjustable units controlled by one remote switch and probably a decent battery pack. Actually ordered this a couple of months back from DealExtreme but it never turned up (the last few orders from DX have failed to turn up so i'm just not ordering from them again). Never had a problem with Lightmalls so hopefully this one will turn up.
I'm hoping it's going to be just like their x2 head only with the advantage of directional beams. Only thing i'm not keen on is the purple back plates and the fact there is no way to dim the output of any of the units (it's one, two or three units on full brightness only). Figure i'll point the the unit that stays on in the lowest mode at the front wheel of the bike and have the other two pointing up the road/trail and dip down to the single when coming across traffic.
Where did you get this triple set unit from here in UK ??
Any link ??
Thanks,
Chris0 -
-Archie- wrote:
Ok, thanks for explanation.Ouija wrote:Look carefully and you'll see ALL the lights appear to put a hotspot at the same position on the grass, it's simply that with the two brightest lights the bit on the grass is bright enough to overload the camera
Sure. I just get wrong impression initially. Valuable pics!That was the whole point of the pics. To demonstrate the different beam patterns and how they look in real world circumstances.
I think the thing people must understand about the floody Inton and Trustfire/Oriole is that the spot diameter is so large it's only really visible when taking photos close up to something. At the distances involved in the pics i've posted the top of the spot has expanded until it's gone completely over the roof of the clubhouse, the bottom of the spot is cutting a V shaped wedge along the grass (which is wet, reflective and closer to the camera, so appears brighter and round due to perspective) and the edges of the spot have reached most of the way to either side of the building, almost completely engulfing it. In other words, no longer a visible spot any more (and the definition of "flood" is a light with no spot).
The Magicshine clone on the other hand, despite the distance, has only expanded out to be about 4/5 feet wide at that distance, so only illuminating a small section of the wall (so the edges are still quite visible within the confines of the building).
Which gives me an idea for another test i might pop out and do in the next few hours.
Mount the Trustfire and two MS clones on either side of my bike bars.
Aim the center of their hotspots at the door handle of the clubhouse door.
Ducktape the camera to the top of the Trustfire (which is flat topped) so the angle is the same in each shot and set it to take a picture automatically every 10 seconds.
Then switch each light on in turn, wait till the camera takes a picture of it and then take 5 steps back.... repeat.
This way i should end up with every odd numbered JPG the camera takes being of the MS clones getting further away from the wall and every even numbered JPG being the Trustfire moving away. I could then take the frames and join them together into two GIF animations (probably a bit jerky but will be an effective comparison to see how far back you get before the Trustfires hot spot isn't even visible any more).
Right, wheres that ducktape gone......0 -
So here goes.....
Magicshine clones with SMO reflectors on the left, Trustfire/Oriole x2 on the right.
Things to note. There is very little difference between spots when only 6 feet from the door (both centered at doorknob height).
However, 50 feet away the Trustfires more floody aproach means the spots starting to disappear...
At around 90/100 feet the lower half of the spot clipping the grass closer to the camera is brighter than the center of the spot hitting the side of the building, creating the illusion of the false spot i've mentioned in the last few posts...
At 150 feet out even the x2 Magicshine clones more focused beam is starting to dissipate, with the lower edge creating a brighter spot on the grass than on the building and the Trustfire is so spotless at this point that the false spot immediately in front of the camera appears as the only real bright thing in the frame.
At 230/300 feet away all spots have dissappeared save for the edges clipping the grass....
Two very different types of light. One almost pure flood, the other pure spot.
Though it does beg the question.. "Who the hell needs to see that far".
Seriously, the sort of distances involved here are considerably further than most car headlights aim at on full beam (and they go a lot faster than the average bicycle). Most cyclists angle the lights down to point just 20 or 30 feet in front of them (even less, in some cases). And at those sort of distances the spot on the Trustfire is still quite strong and the Magicshine clones are just tiny pin bright dots. Which makes the SMO Magicshine clones terrible for close/medium work IMO. If you go for two of those lights, it's important to mitigate them by getting versions with OP reflectors instead, so they are more like the Sanguan/Hi-MAX beam patterns (see previous page).0 -
Thanks again for your efforts: well done!Ouija wrote:So here goes.....
I think, I can answer that question. Several years ago, I've specifically bought such MagicShine clone with smooth reflector to be used on my road bike. At that time, I've had two original MJ-808 on my MTB bike, and wanted something with narrower beam. After long-time experience, I'd say it was right decision: on my evening rides and all-night trips, such light is really useful: it's possible to see the road far enough to maintain 'daytime' speed, while some spill is sufficient to clearly see the edges...Though it does beg the question.. "Who the hell needs to see that far".0 -
Ouija wrote:Today is payday....
Since doing the light test i thought i'd treat myself to something new to play with...
.. a cheapie at £13 but it has choice of two sets of modes (Set1= Low, Mid, High and a SOS if button pressed for 3 seconds) or 10 brightness modes if the button is pressed for 8 seconds. Also has an interesting lense. At £13 for just the head unit it's disposable if it turns out to be crap. Only ordered it as an extra while ordering this....
Guess what showed up today?
Probably wont be able to get out and test them until the weekend but first impressions are.....
The £13 cheapie has a spotless beam due to the unusual optics . I like the fact it has three modes that simply go low, medium, high with no flash mode or off mode in the sequence (that requires you to press the button for a couple of seconds). Makes it a little more suitable for pottering down country lanes as you can quickly dip the light for an oncoming car without accidentally switching it off or putting it in a flash mode (for pottering around towns/cities you really need something with a remote switch as you tend to need to dip lights a lot more often).
It's also incredibly small. Smaller than the Trusfire/Oriole x2, with a thick foam on the bottom of the bar bracket that stops it scratching up the bars.
The new Trustfire x3 came in a nice box with foam inserts for all the parts. This as been the case with most of my Trustfire Torches but not with the Trustfire x2's, which came in nothing but bubble wrap and a jiffy bag. Brightness wise, i'd put it at around 2000 lumen (their obviously not running each head at the max of 3 amps, probably closer to 2/2.5) and has a very similar beam pattern to two of the glowring lights i pictured on the previous page. Not surprising as they have the same reflector and head dimensions of those Glowring lights with the only difference being the ability to point the combined beams in different directions.
I tend to replace rubberband bar mounts with proper bar mounts, such as the ones made by Hope, and that's certainly going to be the case with the new Trustfire. Why? Because the traditional rubberband mount sits the light so close to the bar that you can't get it near to the stem (the outside light module wont reach over the top of my stems faceplate screws) forcing you to sit it halfway out to the grips. Hey, ho, that's the way it goes. Still don't know why they opted for style of bar mount when they don't on the x2 model.0 -
Ok. Quick update. Been using these for the last week and will get round to taking some beam shots as soon as my handlebar camera mount turns up (supposedly last week, but i imagine the christmas post as slowed down all deliveries).
First up, the Trustfire x3.
As mentioned above, you can't sit this close to the stem as it sits too low to the bar with the original rubber band mount, forcing you to sit it near the grips. Tried a Hope one but that suffers from the same issue. So dug out two Halfords ones and they work a treat....
Side of the stem mount...
Over the stem mount...
Only thing to note is the lights wire has two gromets close to the entry point of the light that the original mount clamps onto to stop the wires being tugged off the circuit board. You need to put a thick piece of rubber in the tiny slot at the back of the Halfords/BikeHut mount to apply pressure to the wire as it comes out of the light and serve much the same purpose.
Brightness wise it's no better than the Trustfire x2 when you have all three emitters pointing forwards and run times suggest it draws much the same ampage overall (with similar 2.5hr runtimes off the four cell pack).
This means that if you decide to point the center emitter down near your front wheel, as i did so i could dip to it for oncoming traffic, then the remaining two forward pointing units aren't going to throw as much light down the road when you switch back to them as the Trustfire x2 or Solarstorm lights do. On the other hand, i do tend to drop my head so that the brim of my hat obscures the headlights of oncoming cars and the remaining light of that one emitter is plenty bright, so you can always see where your going. With the Trustfire/Oriole x2, for instance, the dipped mode leaves both lights on and points them in the same place on the road, just at a much lower output so you often can't see where your going until the car is past.
However, having to go through the OFF and FLASH modes every time you dip the light is seriously irritating (as with the x2 version). Luckily, i ride on quiet country lanes where you don't see much traffic but i wouldn't recommend either light for town/city use.
x2 Cree XM-L2 (lightmalls)
I really, really like this light. Although i bought it as an afterthought while getting the Trustfire x3 i'm really glad i splashed out on this impulse purchase. Why?
It's small, has sensible modes (low,medium,high) with no OFF or FLASH in the regular sequence of button presses. I also like the non spotty beam pattern which doesn't ruin your night vision. The FLASH (activated by holding the button for 3 seconds when the units off) is a reasonably slow, laconic affair and not the insanely fast disorientating kind.
Other things worth mentioning is that it's completely programmable. What the various websites refer to as it's "10 step alternative mode" is nothing of the sort. This mode, when activated allows you to set the brightness of the original three modes and of the FLASH mode.
So if you want to set the brightness of the "low" mode. Switch the light on into "low", press the button for 5 seconds until the light switches off and back on again and the button goes orange (10 step mode), click through the ten brightness settings until your at the one you want and then press and hold the button again for 5 seconds until the light switches off/on again and the button goes back to green. And that's it, you've set the brightness for that mode and can do the same with the medium and high modes (i have them set to brightness levels 1,5 and 10 respectively).
You can even set the brightness level of the flash in the same way. Press and hold button for 3 seconds while light is off to activate flash and then hold button for 5 seconds until 10 step mode is activated (button goes orange). Select brightness level and then press button for 5 seconds until goes back to green.
This is really useful as the 1st level of brightness on this unit is dim enough that you can stare right at it without hurting your eyes or that of motorists and pedestrians.
Some very clever use of modes. I can see myself leaving this one on one of my bikes over the winter.
And some pics......
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what do you think would be the best choice between the trustfire x2 and the creex2 that you have tested, i have seen the the cree x2 available with a 6cell battery pack.
or possibly this ?
http://www.lightmalls.com/powerful-3l2- ... ttery-pack0 -
Depends what you want it for (on road urban/rural, off road etc)?
The Trustfires come with good battery packs that meet stated runtimes. Lightmalls own six cell pack they included with a single emitter Glowring style light i ordered from them went in the bin the day after it arrived it was that bad. Your better off sourcing your own battery if you go with the Cree x2. You can buy the Trustfire packs for around £19. And avoid the Kaidomain rubberized packs.
I'd say the Trustfire x2 is the better all round package as it comes with everything you need (remote switch, good waterproof battery and bag, decent bar mount, charger etc). But that's not to say the Cree XM-L2 x2 isn't a good light. It just means you have to buy all the above things separate. It's also a little dimmer at around 1400 lumen but has a nicer beam pattern IMO and the programmable modes are useful. It's currently mounted next to the grips on my mountain/commuting bike so i can tap it's button without taking my hands off the grips which makes it a great little commuting light since your not toggling through flash and off modes as you do with the Trustfires.0 -
I see Lightmalls are now stocking XP-L LEDs. I need some more torches (yes I do, I really do).
I note the price : is $4 more - is the XP-L noticeably better than the XM-L2 or am I the Guinea pig first to test?
http://www.lightmalls.com/op-reflector- ... ch-1-18650
http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-wf- ... ch-1-186500 -
diy wrote:I see Lightmalls are now stocking XP-L LEDs. I need some more torches (yes I do, I really do).
I note the price : is $4 more - is the XP-L noticeably better than the XM-L2 or am I the Guinea pig first to test?
http://www.lightmalls.com/op-reflector- ... ch-1-18650
http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-wf- ... ch-1-18650
Nope. Got a XP-L 501 from Kaidomain the other month (2.8amps) when ordering some other stuff. If it's brighter than my XM-L2 502's then i can't honestly tell the difference.0 -
Just ordered a Uniquefire x2 Cree with a spare battery + rear light for £39.99, hopefully the battery's are a little more robust than the Solarstorm lights, your review has given me some confidence thanks Ouija...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271662150438? ... EBIDX%3AITParacyclist
@Bigmitch_racing
2010 Specialized Tricross (commuter)
2014 Whyte T129-S
2016 Specialized Tarmac Ultegra Di2
Big Mitch - YouTube0 -
BigMitch41 wrote:Just ordered a Uniquefire x2 Cree with a spare battery + rear light for £39.99, hopefully the battery's are a little more robust than the Solarstorm lights, your review has given me some confidence thanks Ouija...
Don't think i've reviewed that one yet (contemplated getting one). Though i think someone a couple of pages back got one.0 -
Just ordered a Yinding lighthead only
http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_133573.html
Gearbest has contacted the original supplier of these (this lighthead has been cloned a lot) and ordered a supply to the original spec, but with upgraded XML2 Leds's
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