Boardman CX Owners Thread

essex-commuter

pkdo75 wrote:

Cheers guys, I've just been back to my Halfords in Wakefield and checked the front forks. I can see where the hole should be but they appear to have blanked it off and painted/varnished over it so you can't mount a front guard?? Am I missing something??

I should think so, yes.

arthur_scrimshaw

Spoke too soon, our CTW scheme doesn't work with Halfords. If I can't resolve it may be looking at a Genesis Vapour but it's a lot more money.....

the_fuggler

This seems like a good place to ask about CX tyres. Any recommendations for decent tyres for a mixture of surfaces?

NetRat

While still waiting for my Boardman CX Pro from wiggle (3 months already passed..), I am looking for new wheelset, as I read, that stock wheels are very heavy. As I intend to do more commuting/touring, than CX racing, I am looking for fast wheels, as well as graphically matching the bike
One of best looking wheels seem to be Mavic C29ssmax http://www.mavic.com/en/product/wheels/mountain-bike/wheels/C29ssmax, but apparently the problem is that Mavic does not recommend tires narrower than 1.5 inch (40-622) on these rims, while I am looking into the region of 32-35 size.
Maybe I have overlooked a better matching wheelset alternative? Thanks for suggestions

bails87

I've got a wheelset based around stans crest 29er rims (superstar hubs. Dt revolution spokes), over 600g lighter than the stock ones (2. 2kg-1590g). They work fine with 25mm gp 4 seasons.

NetRat

Well, yes, you can build fast wheels with ZTR rims, but they are a bit too boring, too rational, if I may say so :roll:

bails87

NetRat wrote:

Well, yes, you can build fast wheels with ZTR rims, but they are a bit too boring, too rational, if I may say so :roll:

:?

Put some glitter on them then....

meanredspider

www.volagi.com - order some of their road-specific disc-braked-specific wheels. They're bringing out a carbon wheel any day now.

bails87

I reckon it won't be long until the 'big boys' in the wheel world start making road specific disc wheels, now that there's starting to be a move towards road based disc brakes.

Edit: Still, $600 for a set of wheels that weigh more than mine do....

NetRat

good point, bails87. sometimes it is better to wait anyhow, any reflections on mavic 29ssmax? Or American Classic 29 tubeless? I have AC tubeless 26" on my XC bike, like their stiffness, but not sure if they are not too wide (21mm internal width) for non-mtb tires on Boardman CX.

bails87

The Mavics are expensive, heavy and hard to get spares for.

The ACs look like a better bet (the same width rims as Crests, which I'm using fine with narrow tyres) normal spokes, still pricey though, especially as you could probably get a similar build to mine for £300, which will weigh a smidge less and should be just as tough.

headrush

Hi, I've just purchased my CX Team and would appreciate a little advice. I opted to collect the bike boxed on the proviso that by building it myself I will be better equipped when things go wrong/need replacing.

So I built it up last night and I'm planning on adjusting the BB5's properly and taking apart and greasing the crank (as I've read the problems others have had...) before the bike sets wheels outside the house.

My questions are: does anyone have opinions on installing the in-line barrel adjusters for the brakes that are provided - I've seen on another thread that others have found them more of a pain than is worth it: viewtopic.php?p=16484260. Also what are the rubber inserts/S-shaped thing/silver barrels that come in a separate bag for?

And is a torque wrench specifically recommended? My last bike being a second-hand Dawes, I've always done things manually - hand-tight without over-tightening. However, if I'm taking the crank apart I feel this may not be good enough!

Many thanks

bails87

I'm suprised you need to do that much. I would have thought Halfords just straighten the handlebars!

I wouldn't worry about a torque wrench for the BB, 'flipping tight' should do.

S shaped things may just clip the cables together at the front of the bike. There's already adjusters on both the levers and calipers, so the inline ones aren't crucial on the brakes. For the gears they probably are useful as they allow you to tweak the tension on the move, rather than at the mech..

I don't know what the other bits are tbh.

headrush

Great cheers for that, I should be all set for a spin soon then. Looks like it'll be in the rain for some time....!

arthur_scrimshaw

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Spoke too soon, our CTW scheme doesn't work with Halfords. If I can't resolve it may be looking at a Genesis Vapour but it's a lot more money.....

Well I think I'm sorted, Halfords currently doing an extra £70 off (until Wednesday) and with a further 10% off for BC membership this brings the price down to £746 - picking it up tomorrow, can't wait!

NetRat

wow, another month to wait for wiggle to have the bike in stock... Order was made in beginning of February. Is it really worth it? in need of friendly support

arthur_scrimshaw

Mudguards for the CX

I've had sks chromoplastics on previous bikes and they're good but a bit ugly. Essex commuter - are those chromos on your bike? they don't look bad, but I was looking at these from Curana, a Belgian firm making slightly arty kit for bikes.



these look nicer to me but perhaps less effective than the SKS. Also look easier to fit with only one stay.

road cc review http://road.cc/content/review/29385-cur ... -mudguards

- got a bit pasted because they're on the short side and also expensive, however Wiggle are pumping the 35mm version out for £25.
Should I take the risk of something new or plump for old faithful?

lardboy

I run Chromoplastics on mine and they look great in black. I got them fitted by my LBS with the original CX tyres, so I can keep them on if I decide to go off road. They still work perfectly with 28mm Gatorskins.

The stays do require a substantial bend, but mine are rock solid.

essex-commuter

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Mudguards for the CX

Essex commuter - are those chromos on your bike? they don't look bad, but I was looking at these from Curana, a Belgian firm making slightly arty kit for bikes.

Sorry, just seen this. They are SKS Bluemels. I got these because they are black, I've had Chromos before and they always look brown in the sun and it winds me up!

essex-commuter

Well this Sunday my CX is 1 year old, happy Birthday me ol' mate.

4875 miles to date, would have been more but I moved offices mid-year and my commute mileage dropped from 32 per day to 23.

Apart from the initial teething problems (breaking spokes) the bike has been fantastic, can't recommend it enough for the money.

Oh and just one puncture since I've owned it which was last week (Durano Plus front, Marathon Plus rear) in the rear tyre - 4mm slither of stone went straight through.

All I've replaced is the chain (at 3800 miles). I did fit new brake cables but that was because I decided to remove the bar-top levers to give more room for the Garmin and the front lights. Pads are approx 50% worn.

arthur_scrimshaw

essex-commuter wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Mudguards for the CX

Essex commuter - are those chromos on your bike? they don't look bad, but I was looking at these from Curana, a Belgian firm making slightly arty kit for bikes.

Sorry, just seen this. They are SKS Bluemels. I got these because they are black, I've had Chromos before and they always look brown in the sun and it winds me up!

Yes I know what you mean, I had them on my old commuter. I still went for them in the end (35's)and I'll post pics when it stops raining in September. Guided by pics on here I managed a half decent job of bending the front stays to miss the brake calliper. Happy Birthday to your bike, mine's only three weeks old but I absolutely love it, a real different experience to my road bike, higher up, very comfortable and the brakes are a revelation after the v's on my old Sirrus. I park my bikes outside the office for security and lots of (non cyclists) think it's nicer/more expensive than my road bike :?

arthur_scrimshaw

Fitted mudguards





Although the angle of the last picture doesn't show it the stay misses the brake calliper.

Long Distance

hi all - i'm wondering if anyone can help give me some advice

i've had my CX Team 2011 since last April - so far it's been fine. However in the last couple of months it's developed a horrible creaking/clicking sound from around the headset area

i'm fairly certain that it's coming from where the fork meets the frame and it's gradually getting worse and louder! I've tightened the headset up a couple of times, which seems to mitigate the problem somewhat, but the last time i tightened it up, it's made virtually no difference. I could try to tighten it again but I don't think there's much room left to play with.

it's pretty constant, but always worse over rough ground - there seems to be a very minimal amount of play (virtually none) around the headset when I apply the front brake and rock the bike back & forth. I've tried to minimise it the last time I tightened the headset up

can anyone recommend anything to try to remedy the problem? Or would I be better off taking it to my local LBS to get them to sort out? (the gears need tuning too, anyway)

thanks for any help

bails87

Bearings might be shot?

New headset or regrease the current one?

arthur_scrimshaw

oh bugger, had a few problems with the Apex rear shifter on the way home tonight. Started with a reluctance to change up, pressing the lever resulted in no movement of the lever, as if it were seized and no gear change, after a couple of attempts it moved and shifted normally then the lever had no resistance and would swing inwards to about 90 deg without shifting up or down. After a few attempts, normal shifting resumed but then the same problem came back. Luckily when I took it into Halfords tonight the mechanic was able to replicate this, but wasn't able to find out why. It's booked in for next week when they will strip down the shifter and try to sort. Done about 400 miles/3 weeks old, no damage that I can see. Anyone had this problem with Apex? It's not totally failed just keeps messing about then starts working again.

optimisticbiker

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

oh bugger, had a few problems with the Apex rear shifter on the way home tonight. Started with a reluctance to change up, pressing the lever resulted in no movement of the lever, as if it were seized and no gear change, after a couple of attempts it moved and shifted normally then the lever had no resistance and would swing inwards to about 90 deg without shifting up or down. After a few attempts, normal shifting resumed but then the same problem came back. Luckily when I took it into Halfords tonight the mechanic was able to replicate this, but wasn't able to find out why. It's booked in for next week when they will strip down the shifter and try to sort. Done about 400 miles/3 weeks old, no damage that I can see. Anyone had this problem with Apex? It's not totally failed just keeps messing about then starts working again.

A mate had something similar on his Tiagra STI, turned out to be a frayed cable end inside the shifter causing it to jam, took us the best part of an afternoon to strip it down in the office at work, clean it out and reassemble (not helped by not having proper tools!).

Mikey1976

Sorry to gatecrash the CX thread, but im about to buy a second hand 2011 Boardman Hybrid Comp. Upton test ride I noticed a clicking noise when I put the power down on the pedals?

The guy said the bottom bracket just needs "tightening" because there was slight play in the crank when you manually moved the pedals side to side?!?

Does this sound like the bearings need re-placeing.....

bails87

Depends what kind of BB it is. If it's a BB30 then maybe it does just need tightening, mine has done the same. BB30 bearings are cheap in any case.

If it's a square taper type then the crank/bb interface may be ruined so you'd need new BB and cranks.

The (hard) steel BB eats into the (soft) alu crank arms with each wobble, so it'll never fit properly again.

Mikey1976

bails87 wrote:

Depends what kind of BB it is. If it's a BB30 then maybe it does just need tightening, mine has done the same. BB30 bearings are cheap in any case.

If it's a square taper type then the crank/bb interface may be ruined so you'd need new BB and cranks.

The (hard) steel BB eats into the (soft) alu crank arms with each wobble, so it'll never fit properly again.

Not sure to be honest, but on the spec it says "Bottom Bracket: FSA cartridge"

bails87

Looks like a square taper. It's up to you, I wouldn't assume that the chainset will be ok, but if the price allows you to budget for a new chainset and BB (simple job to DIY) then go for it.