Boardman CX Owners Thread

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  • tincaman
    tincaman Posts: 508
    jamin100 wrote:
    Can anyone offer me some advise please?

    I currently have a boardman hybrid comp 2010 which I brought 2nd had but know its had at least 3 owners before me.
    It's in ok condition but not perfect.

    My employer has just signed up for the cycle 2 work scheme and Im considering selling the hybid and getting the boardman cx.

    I use my bike for commuting on a 20 mile round trip. I've never had a bike with drop bars but don't see a problem with me getting used to it

    Do you think this is an advisable upgrade or just a waste of money?

    Tis a great upgrade, I have a very hilly 30mile RT commute and this bike is great, geared for the steepest of hills, has all the fixings for rack and mudguards, brilliant brakes after setting up and bedding in.
    The biggest problem is where you buy it from and who sets it up. If you are competent buy it boxed and do it yourself.
    You can use the code NUSFEB12 to get 10% off as well.
  • jamin100
    jamin100 Posts: 72
    Thanks for that. I've found a way I can get another 10% off too which would bring the cost of the bike down to around £730. I can't find anything in that price range that can compete with it.
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    I've just weighed my wheels.

    1195g on the back and 999g on the front. That includes a magnet for my computer and spoke reflectors, so the completely bare weight will be a little lower, but only by a few grams. So a smidge under 2.2kg.

    TBF, it's not really that terrible for an OEM wheelset, but an upgrade would drop a huge chunk of weight. That set I've linked to would lose 400g, for £220. The rims are 21mm internal width, vs 18mm on the Ritchey rims, but it'll be fine with the 25mm and 35mm tyres I use.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • loaderm
    loaderm Posts: 18
    Hi all,

    I picked up my CX from Exeter Halfords last week and on first ride have found drive crank touching chainstay when under hard peddling pressure (when pushing hard on non drive side). Have taken bike to Yeovil branch and the mechanic Dan said Exeter didn't prepare bike at all - great! He took crank out and thinks there is a spacer missing on the drive side - should be two he thinks and only one fitted. This makes sense as more gap on non drive side than drive side. Waiting for new crank to come in to try that. Crank is FSA Gossamer.

    Has anybody else had this issue?

    Whilst their, he sorted front brake rubbing issue but couldn't sort back and has odered a new disk as original bent!!

    Any clues on crank issue welcome.

    \thanks

    Mark
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    I'd imagine it's what the mechanic has described. Can't see what could be added there tbh....
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • loaderm
    loaderm Posts: 18
    If anybody has a 2011 (disc equipped) model CX in large I would be grateful if you could measure the distance between the drive crank pedal end and the right chainstay, and the non drive side crank pedal end and the left chainstay so that I can tell if its just my bike?
    If mine is different then I can more easily reject it for a new one!
  • Cestrian
    Cestrian Posts: 1
    loaderm wrote:
    If anybody has a 2011 (disc equipped) model CX in large I would be grateful if you could measure the distance between the drive crank pedal end and the right chainstay, and the non drive side crank pedal end and the left chainstay so that I can tell if its just my bike?
    If mine is different then I can more easily reject it for a new one!

    Hi
    Found this thread and signed up to bike radar as I've recently bought one of these bikes myself. It's the large size so have measured the closest points between outside of chainstay and inside of crank - driveside is 6mm and non-drive side is 8mm. No idea if this is correct or not but gives you some idea, I've had no problems with cranks.

    Loving the bike so far. Being a heavy rider (>18 stone) I've upgraded the front brakes to BB7 for extra stopping power and shortened the stem by a couple of cm until I get a bit more flexible after years of riding a hybrid. The only other thing I'm considering is some mudguards, but as I'm keeping this for best ideally I want some I can attach for wet days only. Haven't found anything suitable yet though.
  • loaderm
    loaderm Posts: 18
    Thanks for that I'll check when it comes back from Halfords - apparently they found it wasn't spaced correctly by Exeter branch and also was slightly bent - so a new crank being fitted. They are also replacing the disks as these were bent beyond acceptable levels. Hopefully it will be A1 when it comes back. Its disappointing that some branches haven't got a clue what they are doing and you have to take them to other branches to get things done properly!
  • Redmog
    Redmog Posts: 50
    Yes, my LBS saw mine, told me what a nice bike it was, admired my new mudguards and said they had built a couple up for customers in the shop. They might get to do the first service on mine too :wink:
    My Pinarello Gallileo and Boardman CX.
  • StefNor
    StefNor Posts: 2
    Hi, first sorry for my not-so-great English!

    I wonder if can get some help for choosing the right size for this bike (Boardman CX PRO or Team)
    Im 174 cm with an inseam of 79-80 cm and im choosing between the S and M.
    I can see that the Top Tube measurement is unusually long, so maybe S is better even thou it has an quite short seat-tube CT size.

    Thanks in advance!
  • loaderm
    loaderm Posts: 18
    Went to see if bike now finished! No :cry: ! After taking advice from the frame supplier the mechanic has now decided the frame is not right - so a new frame is now on the way :x . At least when all this ends I'll know there is nothing left to be wrong!!!!! apart from probably the bearings after a few miles! The spacing should be 7mm apparently and they have now found another bike with the same problem. It better be worth it when its right.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    loaderm wrote:
    Went to see if bike now finished! No :cry: ! After taking advice from the frame supplier the mechanic has now decided the frame is not right - so a new frame is now on the way :x . At least when all this ends I'll know there is nothing left to be wrong!!!!! apart from probably the bearings after a few miles! The spacing should be 7mm apparently and they have now found another bike with the same problem. It better be worth it when its right.

    Should they not just be replacing the whole bike? Would that not be altogether quicker?
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • loaderm
    loaderm Posts: 18
    I did suggest that but aparently the replacement frames come on a slightly different route and are 100% inspected and geometry measured, which will mean it's defo correct. As I've now got brand new cranks, brake discs, brake pads, etc, I thought lets go with it as it will now be hand built by a technician that seems to care!
    It remains to be seen if it is correct after all this.
  • Darren74
    Darren74 Posts: 25
    Anybody know what diameter seat tube the CX has? I want to change the front mech but can't seem to find any info on tube diameter.
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    31.6 mm seatPOST. So a 34.9mm seat tube?
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • mak26
    mak26 Posts: 23
    After getting my first roadie recently I'm seriously considering selling my Sirrus I currently use for commuting to get a Boardman CX for commuting / winter miles.

    Just after a little advice here from current owners on sizeing (nothing in stock locally for me to try!). My roadie has a 54cm top tube and seat post with a 100mm stem, height is fine and after initially thinking I'd go for a shorter stem as it felt a bit of a stretch I have settled into the position fine. By my calculations the Medium CX will have a cockpit that's 2.5cm longer and a seat tube 1cm shorter so I will have more seat post showing and a slightly longer stretch. The small CX would have an identical length top tube but a seat tube 2.5cm shorter.

    So smaller frame and 2.5cm seat tube showing or larger frame and get a 80 or 90mm stem? I'm thinking small?!

    I'm 5"8 with 30" inside leg...
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    I'd go small, get TT the same, 2.5cm of seapost is nothing really.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • apolloxl
    apolloxl Posts: 2
    Hi there,

    1st post here, so thanks in advance for helping me out,

    I'm interested in buying an Apex groupset if anyone is replacing it for Shimano 105 or something else.

    Thanks

    A
  • tincaman
    tincaman Posts: 508
    mak26 wrote:
    After getting my first roadie recently I'm seriously considering selling my Sirrus I currently use for commuting to get a Boardman CX for commuting / winter miles.

    Just after a little advice here from current owners on sizeing (nothing in stock locally for me to try!). My roadie has a 54cm top tube and seat post with a 100mm stem, height is fine and after initially thinking I'd go for a shorter stem as it felt a bit of a stretch I have settled into the position fine. By my calculations the Medium CX will have a cockpit that's 2.5cm longer and a seat tube 1cm shorter so I will have more seat post showing and a slightly longer stretch. The small CX would have an identical length top tube but a seat tube 2.5cm shorter.

    So smaller frame and 2.5cm seat tube showing or larger frame and get a 80 or 90mm stem? I'm thinking small?!

    I'm 5"8 with 30" inside leg...

    I am 5-7 with 29inch inside leg, Medium frame is comfy for me, there is about 10cm seat tube showing
    IMAG0356.jpg
  • mak26
    mak26 Posts: 23
    Thanks for the replies so far, i guess the answer is either will probably be fine :?

    There is a Medium in stock now about 50 miles away, might go and check it for size.

    On another note I read that as a British Cycling member i can get vouchers through them for 10% off but how? I have downloaded a 10% voucher, is it a case of walking into store and buying the vouchers at 10% off them buying a bike as i cannot see any other way on the BC website....
  • essex-commuter
    essex-commuter Posts: 2,188
    Phone Halfords and quote your BC reference number. They sell you vouchers for the discounted price but send vouchers for the full amount. Take the vouchers into the store and purchase the bike.
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    Cheers Guys!

    I am thinking of getting a Boardman CX as my next bike for all year commuting - so i guess i'll be reading the previous 22 pages! :shock:
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • mak26
    mak26 Posts: 23
    essex-commuter wrote:
    Phone Halfords and quote your BC reference number. They sell you vouchers for the discounted price but send vouchers for the full amount. Take the vouchers into the store and purchase the bike.

    Excellent, thank you. So a phone call for 10% off vouchers and then a voucher for a further 10% off when I walk in to collect and pay. NICE :mrgreen:

    rubertoe - just what i'm going to use it for, all year commuter plus winter training. Looks like the ideal machine for it.
  • arthur_scrimshaw
    arthur_scrimshaw Posts: 2,596
    Hit the button on a CX this pm, had a very good experience from my Halfords (Chichester) the bike manager knew his stuff and even experimented with fitting a 28c tyre to a CX rim he had in the back to see if it would fit. It really looked like that was the thinnest tyre it would take but I'm sure I've read people fitting 25c ?
    Anyhow I'm probably going to plump for 28C gatorskins and SKS chromoplastics, I'm thinking the 35mm guard would look best with the tyre size (I run 28c with these on my Sirrus) and if I was going to put the cross tyres back on I'd remove them anyway.

    What's the consensus on guard width's on here?
  • pkdo75
    pkdo75 Posts: 6
    Having owned CX bikes before I really like the look of the Boardman especially as it is advertised as mudguard and rack friendly. Problem I have is that I've checked out the bikew in local Halfords and can't work out how to mount a front mudguard. Obviously the forks are drill near the dropout but there's no front brake mounting hole to suspend the mudguard from, any help would be gratefully recieved as I want to buy this week if possible.
    Paul
  • arthur_scrimshaw
    arthur_scrimshaw Posts: 2,596
    see page 2 of this thread, 5 post. unless things have changed??
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    pkdo75 wrote:
    Having owned CX bikes before I really like the look of the Boardman especially as it is advertised as mudguard and rack friendly. Problem I have is that I've checked out the bikew in local Halfords and can't work out how to mount a front mudguard. Obviously the forks are drill near the dropout but there's no front brake mounting hole to suspend the mudguard from, any help would be gratefully recieved as I want to buy this week if possible.

    There should be holes on the front forks near the drop-outs and a threaded hole at the top of the fork. If you check through earlier pages on this thread you'll see pics of bikes with guards fitted. It takes a bit of manipulation of the guard stay to move it around the caliper
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    The hole for the front guard is in the back of the fork, it doesn't go all the way through, but it's there.

    Also, yes, I'm running 25mm tyres, on Stans crest 29er rims, which are 1mm wider than the standard rims. The tyres were fine on the original wheels too.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • pkdo75
    pkdo75 Posts: 6
    Cheers guys, I've just been back to my Halfords in Wakefield and checked the front forks. I can see where the hole should be but they appear to have blanked it off and painted/varnished over it so you can't mount a front guard?? Am I missing something??
    Paul
  • jamin100
    jamin100 Posts: 72
    The hole is there its just painted over.
    You just need to poke a screwdriver through it

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