45 year old, fat, newbie commuter needs advise please

davis

fatboybiker wrote:

davis wrote:

Make sure you're eating real food, though.

Should I be dieting to get the best results? I sort of eat normally and my weight hasn't really fluctuated by more than 3 lb in the last 2yrs. I realise dieting will help with weight loss but I (Maybe stupidly) thought that I would loose weight because of the excercise. :? I certainly feel like I'm putting the effort in.
Do I need to start looking at nutrition stuff now then ?

I wouldn't recommend dieting -- or at least not yet. I think if you eat the same stuff, and exercise more, you'll lose weight. It's basically down to the amount of calories consumed vs the amount you burn. If you're tired now, you're going to turn yourself inside out trying to do more with less fuel.

[poncy preachy bit]
What I meant by "eating real food" is "make sure you're not eating junk". So, pretty much home-cooked stuff from real ingredients. However, I'm a bit of a Victorian when it comes to food, and reckon you have no business eating food your Grandfather wouldn't recognise, and have always studiously ignored things like "healthy low-fat"-type foods. I just eat Food.
[/poncy preachy bit]

dilemna

This thread is useless without pics !

fatboybiker

dilemna wrote:

This thread is useless without pics !

Of what?

carrock

fatboybiker wrote:

Hi,

as the title says I'm about to begin commuting for the first time. With a petorl bill rising to nearly 50quid a week to be the traffic. So 3 weeks ago I thought enough is enough.

I'm looking for advise so as to avoid killing myself, as excercise has been alien to me since the age of 20. Up until then I did cycle everywhere and probably racked up 50 miles a week (could have been more but never needed to know) on my old iron horse BSA Javelin (bright yellow I think). That seems a world away now and the roads seem far more congested than I ever remember.

anyway.....

I'm nearly 45 yoa and weigh bang on 17 stone and i'm 5' 11.... so probably classed as obese

my journey too and from work has changed for financial reasons among others and for the last 3 weeks has involved a 10 minute walk from home to the train station, a ten minute journey on the train to the town centre and then a 2.2 mile walk which I can now do in 35 minutes (was 45mins at the beginning though not too sure if thats good or bad). and then following a full days work(i'm a teacher in a prison) I do the whole thing in reverse.

The journey by road is 8 miles so that would be 16 mile round trip commute.(i'm not sure how this compares to others on here, probably very short).

I've been doing walk, train, walk so far. Now I've serviced my bike do I do bike , train, bike and cut down the walking times..... or do I jump straight in and do the whole commute by bike? ? ?

Is 16 miles a day, 5 days a week enough for any weight loss? or am I kidding myself that this might be a welcome bonus? :roll:

also (i'll shut up in a minute) a work colleague suggested changing the tyres on my bike (26 x 2.00 semi mountain bike type, i mean they aren't the real nobbly ones) to slimmer smoother road tyres but I don't have a clue what make or size would be suitable for my rims, so any help would be great.

And any advice on good reasonably priced water proofs would be helpfull too. Are there any trousers/joggers that are water proof and can be worn without anything underneath ( not in a pervy way) ideally with a flourescent coloured waterproof jacket that won't break the bank.

I got myself a skid lid at a bargain price, a Bell Ventura for £20.69 from Halfords online instead of £45 quid instore. Although I did use their reserve and collect service and had to go to the store to get it.(figure that one out)

The bike I bought 12 months ago(I was going to do this back then but the car...... ) is a Specialized Hardrock, not the best by any means but for someone like me on a limited budget it will get me started.

sorry for such a long first post and it being all me,me,me. but all help will be greatly appreciated.

thanks

I' same age height and weight also obese, with diabetes and asthma. and i shattered my leg in 2007 and had to have it plated and bonegrafted. In 2008 I did the c2c in 3 days carrying my own luggage.

So your commute sounds a doddle. Get on with it. And good luck!

jeremyrundle

Before you buy a bike don't rush out and think I must buy "A BIKE", consider having one built, where you chose the components, my bikes are built by my local shop, because only I know how and where I want to ride so being able to decide that wheelset, that frame, those bars/riser/stem, those brakes etc, makes all the difference.

I am not saying it is right for all but how many times do you think you will say to yourself, when you have that new bike, "I will change that", "let's try changing this" and before you know it you have spent another £200+ and the "old" parts sit in the shed rusting.

Think about it.

One of mine here....

http://sirpatrickmooresales.co.uk/Ourpage.aspx

I have since upgraded to Shimano SLX parts but what came off this build went on my other bike so £0 extra lost as the parts on that bike needed to be replaced.

Oh and MOST important, try hard sole shoes for cycling, I only use proper walking shoes, as in outdoor moorland hill walking, if I used office work shoes or trainers I would be K********, look at

http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/produ ... cts_id=114

DON'T under estimate the need for good footwear.

EKE_38BPM

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Here's a little secret - road bikes are pretty robust.

How very true. Check this out.

fatboybiker

EKE_38BPM wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Here's a little secret - road bikes are pretty robust.

How very true. Check this out.

:shock: Thats gotta be some very special big bucks bike and the rider cant be an ounce over 12 stone..... and fit as fook.

I can only dream.

EKE_38BPM

The point of that video is to show you that a carbon framed road bike (generally regarded as the most fragile material for the most fragile type of bike) isn't as fragile as people presume.
If a carbon bike can take that kind of abuse (bunny hops, back flips etc), then an aluminium framed or steel framed bike can easily handle the ride to work, no matter how bad the roads are.

To give you an idea of longevity in the real world, the alumium frame on my road bike lasted about 10 years/40,000 miles. I am a bit of a light weight, but I think weight is a minor issue.

And once again, good work.

walkingbootweather

Not sure I can agree with JR

jeremyrundle wrote:

consider having one built, where you chose the components.

"Off-the-shelf" bikes are often cheaper than the sum of the components and have generally been matched by someone who knows what they are doing. Sure you can design and build to your own specification (I've done so myself), but the total cost is usually higher and even then I got a few things wrong that needed changing, and believe me I spent many hours considering and consulting before deciding on final specification. Althought it was rewarding giving birth to a bike in this way (even if it did make my eyes water), I couldn't recommend this approach to a casual cyclist or relative novice. When you get to the point that you 'need' a road bike, visit 3 or 4 good bike shops. Explain what you want, allow the experts to make recommendations and try them out for yourself.

Touring frames are designed to carry a fair bit of weight and will generaly come with stronger wheelsets than pure race machines.

jeremyrundle wrote:

Oh and MOST important, try hard sole shoes for cycling, I only use proper walking shoes, as in outdoor moorland hill walking.

Yes good shoes are a boon but (and I'm sticking my neck out a bit here), you might think about cycling shoes for cycling :shock: . You would need to get a appropriate pedals and cleats too, but much better that any other footwear for any real distances on a bike. SPD shoes with recessed cleats are fine for walking in too. Lidl are even selling some for £15 from Monday.

EKE_38BPM

walkingbootweather wrote:

Not sure I can agree with JR

jeremyrundle wrote:

consider having one built, where you chose the components.

"Off-the-shelf" bikes are often cheaper than the sum of the components and have generally been matched by someone who knows what they are doing. Sure you can design and build to your own specification (I've done so myself), but the total cost is usually higher and even then I got a few things wrong that needed changing, and believe me I spent many hours considering and consulting before deciding on final specification. Althought it was rewarding giving birth to a bike in this way (even if it did make my eyes water), I couldn't recommend this approach to a casual cyclist or relative novice. When you get to the point that you 'need' a road bike, visit 3 or 4 good bike shops. Explain what you want, allow the experts to make recommendations and try them out for yourself.

jeremyrundle wrote:

Oh and MOST important, try hard sole shoes for cycling, I only use proper walking shoes, as in outdoor moorland hill walking.

Yes good shoes are a boon but (and I'm sticking my neck out a bit here), you might think about cycling shoes for cycling :shock: . You would need to get a appropriate pedals and cleats too, but much better that any other footwear for any real distances on a bike. SPD shoes with recessed cleats are fine for walking in too. Lidl are even selling some for £15 from Monday.

+1
Walking boots for walking, cycling shoes for cycling. The clue is in the name!
As a kid I used to play basket ball in tennis shoes. Error. I got injured because of them and couldn't play for almost a year.

Use the right tool for the job.

davis

walkingbootweather wrote:

Not sure I can agree with JR

jeremyrundle wrote:

consider having one built, where you chose the components.

"Off-the-shelf" bikes are often cheaper than the sum of the components and have generally been matched by someone who knows what they are doing. Sure you can design and build to your own specification (I've done so myself), but the total cost is usually higher and even then I got a few things wrong that needed changing, and believe me I spent many hours considering and consulting before deciding on final specification.

This. I don't recommend getting a bike custom built/specified either. It's just not worth the money to you yet. I've built one, but mostly for the experience, certainly not the value (effective cost was something like 3 times what it needed to be). Ultimately, I stand by my original recommendation: stay with your current bike for a while, use the time to save money, and get fitter.
When the time comes, buy a road bike. The universal advice is to:

o) try to increase your budget - use a cyclescheme if you can
o) try as many bikes as you can
o) buy from an LBS which you like and think you can trust

By all means check back here with your options, but remember, if your commute is on the road, we're likely to recommend a road bike... We've all been here before..

fatboybiker

Again..... thanks for all the advice peeps.

For the time being....certainly until I hit my 6 months commuting marker, I'll be sticking with my Spesh Hardrock and concentrate on getting my fitness up and fingers crossed my weight down.

I have one big concern now and that is if I get this new position. The commute looks horrendous (compared to my near flat trip to and from work). I know, fitness wise, things ain't gonna happen over night but I'm still getting a dull ache in my thigh muscle. not as bad as last week but I wasn't expecting that today. (still expecting too much too soon?)

This possible new journey into work has no alternative public transport options that fit in with work times so its either car or bike and using the car completely defeats the object . The journey has several up and down sections and although it is not yet certain that I will be moving with work, it is likely, and although it will be 6-8 weeks before the move the prospect of this commute worries me somewhat.

deptfordmarmoset

fatboybiker wrote:

Again..... thanks for all the advice peeps.

For the time being....certainly until I hit my 6 months commuting marker, I'll be sticking with my Spesh Hardrock and concentrate on getting my fitness up and fingers crossed my weight down.

I have one big concern now and that is if I get this new position. The commute looks horrendous (compared to my near flat trip to and from work). I know, fitness wise, things ain't gonna happen over night but I'm still getting a dull ache in my thigh muscle. not as bad as last week but I wasn't expecting that today. (still expecting too much too soon?)

This possible new journey into work has no alternative public transport options that fit in with work times so its either car or bike and using the car completely defeats the object . The journey has several up and down sections and although it is not yet certain that I will be moving with work, it is likely, and although it will be 6-8 weeks before the move the prospect of this commute worries me somewhat.

I don't know what part of the world you're commuting to and from but if there's a midway point where you can leave the car and get on the bike on the way in you'll still be saving petrol and getting exercise.

Nik Cube

6-8 weeks is enough time to build some fitness and then the new commute won't seem so hard. Good things come to those who keep trying

fatboybiker

another week almost completed.......but......



not happy.....

got pain in my left thigh right at the top when I start riding, could almost be the hip area its that high.

my thighs ache in general with that, just-worked-out-feeling but I don't mind that.

Its a dull ache and lasts for about half my journey. either going to work or coming home.

its uncomfortable and makes the first 15 minutes horrible. It sort of feels weak.

and I can't go long before coasting for half a minute.

could this still be due to too much to soon?

jonginge

Stick with it. You're just using muscles in a different way than they're used to. Bit of rest over the weekend, good food and each week should get slightly easier. We've all been there.

The hip pain could be just a bit of a strain but could also be due to bike fit. Do you stretch after your rides? Some people benefit from that. I should stretch more than I do...

EKE_38BPM

We tried to warn you.

Have you been stretching? Is your position correct? Got padding where you need it?
Maybe you need to have your bike 'whispered' to sort your positioning.

Take a few days off from the commute next week.

pastryboy

Buy a foam roller, roll over the affected area and suck up the pain. It should get better after that as it can help get rid of any tightness/kinks lurking in the muscles. You could also try a jacknobber (actual name) if you've got specific areas that hurt.

slowondefy2

Always take notice of pain, it's there for a reason (especially if it's actually making you freewheel). Pain is not weakness leaving the body, it's just pain.

davis

It might be too much too soon, but it could be bike fit too. Is your saddle straight, level etc?Have a look at saddle height, too.

You might, if you're feeling particularly uncomfortable, want to try applying ice to the painful region. Bizarrely heat seems to work too, although I'm not sure why heat and cold both seem to work (I'm not really sure I care, either).

I genuinely think it's worth playing with bike fit/positioning. Even tiny adjustments can make the difference between pain or no pain. I bet everyone here as got tales of "that kind of achey pain that went away after moving $thing 5mm".
You're using a bike frequently. If something's forcing you into the wrong position you'll suffer eventually.

deptfordmarmoset

I genuinely think it's worth playing with bike fit/positioning. Even tiny adjustments can make the difference between pain or no pain. I bet everyone here as got tales of "that kind of achey pain that went away after moving $thing 5mm".

Aye, get yourself a mini tool (or at least a selection of Allen keys) and don't be afraid to use it. If it doesn't help, use the tool again and put it back. Even if it doesn't solve the problem, it'll help - I'm fairly certain your thigh won't hurt while you're making the adjustment....

EKE_38BPM

In my "We tried to warn you" post, I was going to put something along the lines of "try raising your saddle by 5mm".

My advice to you would be to listen to the advice that you've asked for.

clarkey cat

MTFU?

only kidding, what they said.

fatboybiker

another week done. first crash today..... downed in the town centre. Stupid feckin white van bast :twisted:, pulls across me into the bike lane causing me to slam on and swerve into some carefully positioned railings (thanks Hull City council Tw@ts) which pulled my handle bars round and sent me spilling on the road :oops: (no one around to see thank fully) only my pride dented....

so a great end to the week all in all.... :roll:

this left leg is horrible....

set off from work on my return journey and almost immediately this ache kicks in...... and stayed all the way home.... I have the normal achey thigh muscles in both legs but this extra pain in my left is cr@p.


anyway thats it now til monday so hopefully its just because its being used.

bike computer to look for and buy with cadence facility this week end me thinks.
Wireless or wired? wired must surely be more reliable?

on a completely different note..... still zero weight loss,although my other half says I am looking more toned , andalso says that (puts her scientific hat on) that its obvious I wont loose weight because I'm putting on muscle..... :? thats gotta be a crock right?


despite everything I love this biking thing..... who'd have thought it after some 20 odd years....

MonkeyMonster

fatboybiker wrote:

andalso says that (puts her scientific hat on) that its obvious I wont loose weight because I'm putting on muscle..... :? thats gotta be a crock right?

per volume, muscle weighs roughly 4 times as much as fat. So you can stay the same size and gain weight but lose fat... which can be a pita at times.

rjsterry

Surely losing the fat is the only bit that really matters. What number comes up on the scales is just a crude way of measuring the former, so if you're looking better and feeling better then who cares how much you weigh?

dhope

fatboybiker wrote:

another week done. first crash today..... downed in the town centre. Stupid feckin white van bast :twisted:, pulls across me into the bike lane causing me to slam on and swerve into some carefully positioned railings (thanks Hull City council Tw@ts) which pulled my handle bars round and sent me spilling on the road :oops: (no one around to see thank fully) only my pride dented....

so a great end to the week all in all.... :roll:

this left leg is horrible....

set off from work on my return journey and almost immediately this ache kicks in...... and stayed all the way home.... I have the normal achey thigh muscles in both legs but this extra pain in my left is cr@p.


anyway thats it now til monday so hopefully its just because its being used.

bike computer to look for and buy with cadence facility this week end me thinks.
Wireless or wired? wired must surely be more reliable?

on a completely different note..... still zero weight loss,although my other half says I am looking more toned , andalso says that (puts her scientific hat on) that its obvious I wont loose weight because I'm putting on muscle..... :? thats gotta be a crock right?


despite everything I love this biking thing..... who'd have thought it after some 20 odd years....

Maybe stick with the gammy leg for a week or two then if it's still playing up head to a physio and they'll probably give you a particular stretch or exercise to do.

No weight loss but more toned sounds about right - and muscle does weigh more so you could be getting thinner but staying same weight. Likely you'll gain muscle for a while as your legs adapt, then once that levels off a bit you'll lose some fat/weight. But as RJS said, don't worry about the weight particularly - if you're looking and feeling better then the rest will come.

Sorry to hear about the off, glad all's well.

dhope

Ah yeah, and wireless is quite reliable so no worries there

EKE_38BPM

dhope wrote:

Ah yeah, and wireless is quite reliable so no worries there

LED lights can interfere with wireless computers, but wired looks ugly.
Your call.

rhext

Go for a Garmin! Basic functions (speed, distance etc) come from GPS and require no sensors on the bike at all. If you're after more advanced stuff (heart rate, cadence etc) then you can add those using wireless sensors.