Thread To Tell Everyone What Fettling You've Just Done

itboffin

Took the steel commuter racer apart after it's earlier EPIC FAIL only to not be able to refit the BB, that mo-fo will not go back in, the C**T left cup wont budge. :evil:

asprilla

SimonAH wrote:

That's like putting saddlebags on an Arabian stallion, for shame.

I know. I added £20 to the price for Pannier Tax.

rubertoe

Adjusted the fore/aft of my saddle last night - stopped mid commute this morning to re-adjust as i failed to tighten it correctly last night.

This may be an on going thing for the next few weeks as i am still not happy with the position.

el_presidente

Dismantled my Look and transferred the parts to the new Planet X Ti. Finished at midnight Sunday night. 118 trouble free miles on the PX on Monday = result

itboffin

ye olde steel is back from the LBS after having the BB shell re-chased, BB cups are knackered though. Never mind it'll look so much better when the SRAM rival groupset goes on :roll:

Re did the lizard skin bar tape and no doubt farked the bar positioning.

Threw away some old campag cassettes even though a part of me was saying you dont even know if those rings are worn out. There's a gap in the market there for someone to create a measurement tool.

Packed up my tools for the AGR next weekend, man I have more "junk" than an entire pro team combined.

Almost forgot yesterday i changed the freehub body on my handbuilt open pro wheel, really easy to do - who needs spares Shimano/Campag specific wheels.

Twostage

rubertoe wrote:

Adjusted the fore/aft of my saddle last night - stopped mid commute this morning to re-adjust as i failed to tighten it correctly last night.

This may be an on going thing for the next few weeks as i am still not happy with the position.

Loosen the clamps, close your eyes, shift the seat back and forth a bit, open your eyes and do up the clamps.
The first time I got my seat 'right' was after the seat bolt snapped (had to do about three miles standing up). I just stuck it back on when I got a new bolt with the intention of adjusting it the next day on my commute. About 4 miles in I remembered I was supposed to be seeing how it felt and realised it was already correct.

Twostage

Made my commuter a triple again. What a job. Had to:-
Take the triple chainset 52/42/30 to bits (fine).
Take the double 50/39 to bits - stripped the Allen heads, buy new chainring bolts, drill out the old ones.
Swap the 50/39 for the 52/42 - chainring bolts wouldn't do up. Went to lbs to borrow their chainring bolt spanner and found the nuts were too long so they gave me a set (nice of them).
Put the triple on the bike and the inner part of the triple DR cage was catching the middle ring. Tried with the double DR but it could only do inner and middle or middle and outer but not all three.
Put the triple DR on again and wedged it with a washer to tilt the DR to the right so the cage didn't catch.
Job done, elapsed time 1 week.

Ben6899

I built this.

Initialised

New rear wheel after denting one under an Audi.

rubertoe

re-fitted the mudguards, still fiddling with the seat, think i have the for and aft about right. I now need to adjust the height i think.

veronese68

Bought a used mountain bike with hydraulic discs late last year. The rear brake didn't work at all and needed bleeding. Shimano do a special sort of funnel thing to do the job as the cylinder only has a little bleed hole. I couldn't get the proper funnel locally so made do by reverse bleeding by forcing fluid up from the caliper using a syringe, then did everything up again. Worked a treat.
I've since got the proper tool/funnel thingy. Bled the front as per the instructions as it was a lot spongier than the rear. Load of rubbish. Reverse bled it like I did with the rear and it works a treat. Admittedly the funnel stops LHM dribbling on the floor though.

Twostage

Initialised wrote:

New rear wheel after denting one under an Audi.

Was it just the bike under the Audi ?

Initialised

Yeah, clipped it after I chased him down for bad driving, under took me coming off Scotswood bridge. Was going to give a mouthful but the lights changed and he took off while I was too close. Will grin and bear it next time, was stupid and I've paid for it. Not a total fail, just nicked enough to make braking uneven. Will do as a winter spare.

Nicked the tube last time I fitted tyres, patch came loose on the new wheel, could only get a presta tube at Teams Halfords so I had to knock up an adapter out of a syringe so it didn't bulge out through the schrader sized hole. Half way to not being a schrader bound nodder now!

Moral of the story, don't chase cars. They will win.

gbsahne001

changed rusty handlebar for a new one, I think the only item left that's original on this bike is the seat post, forks and quill. The quill also needs to be changed now, as the black of the handlebar and the chrome of the quill don't match.

roger_merriman

Managed to change the pads on my mtb with out it being a git, normally a piston has seized or some other fun.

To be fair they are quite old and are based on a even older design hence me plotting their demise at some point.

Initialised

gbsahne wrote:

changed rusty handlebar for a new one, I think the only item left that's original on this bike is the seat post, forks and quill. The quill also needs to be changed now, as the black of the handlebar and the chrome of the quill don't match.

The best way! I'm down to frame, forks, stem and and bar.

Initialised

sry: dreaded double post bug rears it's ugly head again!

gbsahne001

Initialised wrote:

gbsahne wrote:

changed rusty handlebar for a new one, I think the only item left that's original on this bike is the seat post, forks and quill. The quill also needs to be changed now, as the black of the handlebar and the chrome of the quill don't match.

The best way! I'm down to frame, forks, stem and and bar.

frame got written off a while back, but replaced with an identical frame via ebay, although I'm now wondering if it was the correct course of action.

I think at that point I should have just written the bike off, got a decent new frameset and transplanted what components I could. Flatbar Kinesis crosslight, with V brakes or front disk... oh well. Determined not to spend any more money on it, other than normal wear and tear.

Cafewanda

Swopped handlebars on the track bike to an Omega compact. Managed to get one brake lever off the old handlebars but can I get the other one off? Can I, firk. :x

Whose idea was this again? You can keep your suggestions to yourself in future.

bushu

Quick change to slime tubes on the charge ss, but being new to presta's didnt think of ordering valve extensions with said tubes - have managed to bodge it for now.. can you please reccommend a particular product as its going to be trial an error, otherwise ill have to don the lycra to be allowed into my lbs

desweller

Softened my mech hanger with the gas torch, then added a bit of twist into it to straighten the derailleur; so far so good!

Wrath Rob

Finally managed to remove the old Time RXS pedals from the commuter. Had to resort to taking the crank arm off and then wrapping a socket set with the right allen key head in carpet before hammering the socket until it came undone. And yes, I was undoing it the correct way! Replacement SPD-SLs now on and all is good.

il_principe

A good clean. From this:



to this:



Let's just say that I had some navigational issues on Saturday. It all went a bit CX, and there I was without so much as a cape.

Initialised

Bugger, this thread's just reminded me I need to re-index my gears.

[edit]Done[/edit]

cyclingprop

Today I took the Madone off the wall, admired it, and then put it back on the wall.

Two weeks to go.

Initialised

bushu wrote:

Quick change to slime tubes on the charge ss, but being new to presta's didnt think of ordering valve extensions with said tubes - have managed to bodge it for now.. can you please reccommend a particular product as its going to be trial an error, otherwise ill have to don the lycra to be allowed into my lbs

I used the end of a small syringe like this as a Schraeder to Presta hole adapter:



We have loads of tubes like this lying around.

SimonAH

Took the body off the cab and went to work on the drive train.

Job one - off came the pringle shaped crank and bb and on went a nice external bearing Shimano Hollowtech twin. This has now upped the big ring from 42 to 50 teeth which means it will be impossible to muscle the thing up anything steeper than the side of a carpark puddle so job two (tonight) will be finding a way to mount a front mech..... Happy days!

redvee

SimonAH wrote:

so job two (tonight) will be finding a way to mount a front mech..... Happy days!

Is the seat tube long enough before it reaches the low top tube?

I put the R500s on my Allez as I've broke another spoke on the stock wheels which will cost £10 to get repaired Only place I've found to buy them is CRC, £3, and they don't sell the right length so I have to buy a longer spoke and get the LBS to cut the thread down and fit.

veronese68

Cleaned my bike, relubed and replaced brake blocks. Apologies for any more rain around SW London.

asprilla

Swapped the Spin Cycles Ti seat pin on the Burls for a Thomson Elite with 15mm layback. Realised I need edit after I moved back in the saddle the other day and the extra leverage cased the saddle to ping up at the front (also need to lose weight).

Was pulling out the Ti seat post and it just kept coming. Not measured it yet but it almost reached the bottle cage bolts. What the hell possessed me to buy something that long?