Chain device for 2X9 setups

step83 · June 2013

Had a real mare today, found a brilliant section of roots which were more like a staircase lovely challenging decent but totally ruined by my chain coming off at every opportunity.
Both me and my friend thought it must be the front mech being too far in so with the aid of a tree we adjusted it out. went off ten minutes later same again going over rough terrain. Picked up some lovely snake bites from trying to pedal with no chain.

Now im not sure if i need a chain device or just to lower the front mech hence me asking. Ive gone from a 3X9 setup to a 2X9 with bashring. I have a Bioncon C guide and the front mech is still in the same place it was for the 3X9 setup. Should i drop the mech down or get a 2X9 guide (if so which) or should I do both? Note the frame has no ISCG mounts but thankfully its not a pressfit BB so any guides would need to be BB compatible unless i can find a plate.

Tom Barton · June 2013

Tight front mech adjustment only gets you so far. Two options:

1. A new style clutch rear mech will improve chain retention and reduce any annoying chain slap noise you may get but its not gonna work all the time.

2. Yep - a lower chain device will definitely help keep that chain on the vast majority of the time.

A quick google provides:

Expensive ones:
http://www.tweekscycles.com/Product.do?method=view&n=3511&g=248388&p=74262&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Chain%20Guides&gclid=CJL4tvGQjLgCFVMftAoda3wAtQ

Cheap ones:
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=336

The Rookie · June 2013

Where was the chain coming off?

Which ring front and sprocket rear?

Have you shortened the chain from it's 3x9 length to take advantage of the extra control it would bring?

You can't get a 9speed damped (clutch) mech.

crispy1980 · June 2013

I have done the same thing and I use a black spire dtinger device. Works a treat, never had the chain drop soncr

step83 · June 2013

The Beginner wrote:

Where was the chain coming off?

Boinging down a section of roots and also on a couple of bumpyish fire trails

Which ring front and sprocket rear?

Granny on the front rear once in the top rest mid cassette

Have you shortened the chain from it's 3x9 length to take advantage of the extra control it would bring?

Two links removed, not taken more due to the chain guide under the chainstay

You can't get a 9speed damped (clutch) mech.

cooldad · June 2013

I have found that if everything is adjusted correctly things don't just come off. Probably helps to use tools to adjust things and not trees.

step83 · June 2013

cooldad wrote:

I have found that if everything is adjusted correctly things don't just come off. Probably helps to use tools to adjust things and not trees.

The tree was our impromtu bike stand i did use me tools

Ill have a proper go through the Parks guide for chain length an setup its probably me being a plank not setting things up correctly. On that note, mech clearance should it be same as it would for a 3X9 setup? or should i treat my middle ring which is now the biggest as a guide for height?

The Rookie · June 2013

step83 wrote:

The Beginner wrote:

Where was the chain coming off?

Boinging down a section of roots and also on a couple of bumpyish fire trails

Nach, inside or outside of the chainrings?

42-32 is 5 teeth on a 180 wrap so you should be removing 4 links (2 pairs) at least, maybe 3 pairs, unless the guide wasn't there on 3x10, size it properly as per SRAM/Shimano/Parktools (all end up at the same length!)

You want as much chain wrapped as possible, so always use the big chainring when there is a possibility of losing it, this will mean you use a larger sprocket at the rear than if you are using the granny.

felix.london · June 2013

cooldad wrote:

I have found that if everything is adjusted correctly things don't just come off. Probably helps to use tools to adjust things and not trees.

This ^^

On rough stuff make sure you're using the middle ring and one of the biggest sprockets on the rear. If everything is setup properly you shouldn't be losing the chain.

Tom Barton wrote:

1. A new style clutch rear mech

These are only 10sp

thelonegroover · July 2013

step83 wrote:

cooldad wrote:

I have found that if everything is adjusted correctly things don't just come off. Probably helps to use tools to adjust things and not trees.

The tree was our impromtu bike stand i did use me tools

Ill have a proper go through the Parks guide for chain length an setup its probably me being a plank not setting things up correctly. On that note, mech clearance should it be same as it would for a 3X9 setup? or should i treat my middle ring which is now the biggest as a guide for height?

Yes, use your largest ring as the guide. So, if you've removed the old largest ring, you will need to lower the mech to the new largest ring. Assume you have set the H and L screws?

The Rookie · July 2013

thelonegroover wrote:

step83 wrote:

cooldad wrote:

I have found that if everything is adjusted correctly things don't just come off. Probably helps to use tools to adjust things and not trees.

The tree was our impromtu bike stand i did use me tools

Ill have a proper go through the Parks guide for chain length an setup its probably me being a plank not setting things up correctly. On that note, mech clearance should it be same as it would for a 3X9 setup? or should i treat my middle ring which is now the biggest as a guide for height?

Yes, use your largest ring as the guide. So, if you've removed the old largest ring, you will need to lower the mech to the new largest ring. Assume you have set the H and L screws?

Bad idea....you need to keep the form of the mech aligned with where it shifts, so unless you lower it all the way down (assuming you can) then your better off just running the mech so it aligns with the granny and middle as it did before.

step83 · July 2013

Ive enough room to drop the mech down so it can sit just above the middle ring if needed. I can see the benefit as it cant throw the chain off the outer ring as easily.

Ill faff with the chain length tonight as that obviously wont affect the front mech and ill get a bundle of photos as well if itll help.

The Rookie · July 2013

So inside or outside?

A bash or outer guide ring will stop it coming off the outside!

step83 · July 2013

Bash is on the outer problem im having is it dropping off the granny onto the frame

cooldad · July 2013

So adjust the mech properly, and don't ride in granny going down bumpy stuff. Save it for steep uphills.

felix.london · July 2013

cooldad wrote:

So adjust the mech properly, and don't ride in granny going down bumpy stuff. Save it for steep uphills.

again - listen to him ^^

..and him ↓

felix.london wrote:

On rough stuff make sure you're using the middle ring and one of the biggest sprockets on the rear. If everything is setup properly you shouldn't be losing the chain

step83 wrote:

Ill faff with the chain length tonight

And easier just to measure it properly once

step83 · July 2013

cooldad wrote:

So adjust the mech properly, and don't ride in granny going down bumpy stuff. Save it for steep uphills.

Mech is adjusted correctly it shifts up and down both fine, unless you mean the height of the mech. Photo i found below. Im assuming it needs to come down but im not touching it till i know

felix.london · July 2013

woah dude..that doesn't look right at all!

Here's my 2x10 setup;

2013+-+1

When the mech is in the outer position it should only clear the bash guard by a couple of mm

The Rookie · July 2013

Well strictly if the original 42T was there is should only clear THAT by a couple of MM.

No chain guide needed, just building what you have properly!

step83 · July 2013

Right, so it needs lowering? I asked somewhere else (not here) and was told to leave the mech as.

The Rookie · July 2013

It's clearly far to high, it's not lowering it as such, it's putting it where it should be in the first place!

If you asked about lowering it without showing that pic, then I'm not surprised at the answer.

cooldad · July 2013

I'm not sure that dangly thing does anything neither.

step83 · July 2013

The Beginner wrote:

It's clearly far to high, it's not lowering it as such, it's putting it where it should be in the first place!

If you asked about lowering it without showing that pic, then I'm not surprised at the answer.

Yeah can understand why, ive shortened the chain took 4 links out in total, ill drop the mech tomorrow

cooldad wrote:

I'm not sure that dangly thing does anything neither.

All ive noticed so far is a bit less chain slap, which is nice just wish it did more in terms of guiding the chain

cooldad · July 2013

Yeah, maybe, but everything was so out of whack how could you tell?
The mechs guide the chain, a bit of neoprene or innertube on the chainstay quietens things down.

step83 · July 2013

Well ive dropped the mech as far as i can without fouling the chainstay. I dont think its low enough thought if im honest

The Rookie · July 2013

Would ideally be 2mm clear of the 42T chainwheel that would normally be there......that looks a little high but 'OK', can go maybe 5mm lower?

Now try the same section making sure you're on the larger ring!

step83 · July 2013

The Beginner wrote:

Would ideally be 2mm clear of the 42T chainwheel that would normally be there......that looks a little high but 'OK', can go maybe 5mm lower?

Now try the same section making sure you're on the larger ring!

Ill tease it a little lower tomorrow and hopefully hit the trails once ive taken a couple of links out of the chain

felix.london · July 2013

step83 wrote:

Ill faff with the chain length tonight

step83 wrote:

ive shortened the chain took 4 links out in total

step83 wrote:

once ive taken a couple of links out of the chain

Not sure about all this. You just need to measure the chain to the correct length...once

thelonegroover · July 2013

step83 wrote:

Well ive dropped the mech as far as i can without fouling the chainstay. I dont think its low enough thought if im honest

It's clearly lower than before. This may make things better, only a ride will tell. To get the correct chain length, bypass the rear mech and thread the new chain around the big chain ring and the biggest rear sprocket only. Bring the chain ends taut and together, and add two whole chain links (1inch). Remove any excess length of chain using a chain tool. This should give you the correct chain length for your gearing.

step83 · July 2013

felix.london wrote:

step83 wrote:

Ill faff with the chain length tonight

step83 wrote:

ive shortened the chain took 4 links out in total

step83 wrote:

once ive taken a couple of links out of the chain

Not sure about all this. You just need to measure the chain to the correct length...once

Yeah my bad on that id forgotten id actually done it already soon realised when i couldnt find the spare chain pins. I went for a little ride on it earlier as I got out of work early chain runs smoothly up and down all the gears. Im not going to get chance to try the rooty section now till Saturday at the earliest so i found a shallow stair case to use instead, didnt drop the chain in either the granny or mid ring. Acid test will come at the weekend really.

felix.london · July 2013

sounds like a good start. Good luck

Chain device for 2X9 setups

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