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fabienno1 · May 2007

Wicked I'm thinking about getting a e400...this Are these any good? They look pretty good to the un-trained eye.

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I'm not showing off, I'm practising.

Anonymous · May 2007

Should be good, been a 'new user' so to speak your not bound by been tied into a brand system aswell.
Mike I'm sorted on what kit I'm picking up in the states and Im gonna keep my D50 till next year, sell it with the 18-55mm my card and case, then use that cash toward a Nice body, something off ebay I think, I've seen D2X's go for œ700 recently [:o]

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Mike Deere · May 2007

Really that cheap? I guess everyone is starting to make preperations for the announcement of the D3 series later this year... I'm stil eagerly awaiting as I really wanna get one. It's going to mean buying a couple of new lenses though too, hope I can afford it at the time.

Oh yeah, just bought another Olympus OM10 with a couple of lenses, which should be arriving tomorrow. Got a proper bargain as it includes the camera body with manual adaptor, 50mm f/1.8, 28mm f/2.8 and a 70-200 f/4 along with a dedicated Sunpak 30DX flash and a couple of extra bits like bag and new straps. Only œ34!

I'll finally have something to do with all the rolls of film that are sat in my fridge.

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Anonymous · May 2007

Yeah it was just a few going that cheap, the rest I've seen go after were around œ1200-œ1400.
But D2Hs are going at the œ500 mark or so, would the fact its 4.1MP really be an issue? I've spoken to various people I know who are into photography and I'm getting a mixed idea of it, some are saying I'll be fine upto printing off on A4, which is all I have printed on. But others are saying that it is to lower resolution.

I've got a Film SLR now, my Grandads Pentax Super Asahi from the 70's, with a few lenses. I'm yet to use it as I've yet to get my hands on some film.

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ultimatebassist31 · May 2007

I got the S6500FD from Curry's of all places on bank holiday monday for œ149. Im chuffed with it. Alot of different modes. Havn't yet taken proper pictures but will in the next month or so with my time off. Just a few question on how to get motion blur. What shutter speed is best? and auto or manual focus?

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Mike Deere · May 2007

I've seen the D2Hs cameras go pretty cheap, I guess everyone fears the resolution issue.

There's something very interesting you should remember though, it's got the same sized sensor as a D2X yet only a third as many pixels. Thus, on the sensor each pixel can be recoreded far more accurately and which a much better signal-to-noise ratio too. Sharpness is helped too, thus you can actually blow the pictures up with no real problems. A4 from a D2H is fine, and even larger than that in the case of newspaper printing.

Even better news than that though, the old D1 series was specced as having a 2.7 MegaPixel sensor. Which may sound irrelevant and pointless, but Nikon revealed several years later that the D1 sensor was in fact 10.8 MegaPixels and that it had been specced as 1/4 of that due to the signal-to-noise ratio that they were obtaining at that resolution.

So lower resolutions on the same sized sensor give less noise.

So?

After that little revelation about the D1, several people set to work on creating new unofficial firmwares for it unlocking the full 10.8 Mp use and incorporating the newer algorithms for noise control. Bonza, that's the same res as a D200 for a fraction of the price.

So now, I'm wondering if the same will happen / is happening with the D2H? There's a lot of firmware hacks out there on the big wide internet and I've not looked into the D2H yet. I do know that it's possible to unlock a D70 to acheive ISO3200 and a resolution of 10.8Mp too, but it saves the images as TIFFs for some reason.

I don't know what the noise is like, though.

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Anonymous · May 2007

Hmm, Mike you've just convinced me the D2h is fine

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Georgeb · May 2007

I am going to get a new camera and I have also been lookng at the fujifilm S5600 and S6500. i know the s6500 is better, but how much better is it? Is it worth the extra money?

Mike Deere · May 2007

Glyn, I might keep an eye out for one myself...

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Anonymous · May 2007

Yeah, Last few I watched on eBay went for around œ500.
I won't be getting one till next year anyway. They do seem quite the bargin compared to the D2X.

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Anonymous · May 2007

Mike I've been given a Miranda 500 CD flash by someone at work, would I be safe to use this on my D50, I read about someone using one on a D70 but I'm still not sure.

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Mike Deere · May 2007

I've used flashes with sync voltages right up to a massive 280 volts on my D70 and it's been fine, even though you're not meant to. I can't speak for the D50 but I should imagine it's the same.

The other option is to use it off camera either using a voltage regulator or via wireless so that it's completely isolated.

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Anonymous · May 2007

Hmm, I was linked to a page of flashes and the sync voltages but mines not on it.
How can I measure the sync voltage, I have a multimeter etc with me so hopefully have the equipment needed.

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Mike Deere · June 2007

Hmm, that link should have been to a product? Seems to work for me.

I've not tried testing with a multimeter, but to be honest a flash like that would be well over 200 volts. Digital cameras are suppposed to use voltages less than 6V, so no matter what it's over the threshold. I guess it's just a case of if you want to risk mounting it directly to the hotshoe or not.

Like I say, I have tried with some huge voltages and it's fine but I can't guarentee it with every camera.

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Anonymous · June 2007

I meant off another forum I was linked to a table.
I tried it on my D50 last night, it worked, the camera still works aswell.
I presume if it was to fry the Sync circuits it would have done it instantly?

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Mike Deere · June 2007

If it was going to fry them then yes it would be instantly, but also be warned about firing the flash at high power repeatedly, that can also cause some damage apparently... Although I've noticed none to mine over the course of two years now!

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Anonymous · June 2007

Hmm, well it seemed fine after 100 or so shots last night, Looks like I've got lucky and got a flash I can use on the free.

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fabienno1 · June 2007

Mike/ Glyn I've been looking at some cameras on ebay and some say they are selling the camera body only? It sounds a bit wierd to me but am I right in thinking that means they are selling just the camera and no extra flashes, lenses etc?

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Thorpey_on_a_bike · June 2007

Body only means literally, the body only. I take it is a SLR (be it digital or not)? It won't include a lens, usually why people say it is body only. The body may have an onboard flash, but unless the seller has mentioned it in the description, there probably wont be anymore than literally the body.

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Anonymous · June 2007

The body would be just this.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c ... _front.jpg
It should come with all the appropiate CD's for converting RAW, battery and charger, strap, etc.
They are sold as such so someone who has already bought into that brands system buys just what they need, nothing extra, It might seem weird but once you have bought into a brand you'll stick with it, so when I upgrade my body I'll sell just the body, and keep the other kit.

If you want someting 'good to go' look for a kit. Kits usually have the body and one or two lenses (e.g. Nikon D50 with 18-55mm lens), but you'll still need a memory card and more than likely a case.

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fabienno1 · June 2007

Thank you muchly[:D][:D]

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johnrowan · June 2007

fuji 6mp i have

cost my dad œ620 out of argos lol.....o and btw hi am new to here

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... forum1.jpg

nicklouse · June 2007

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by johnrowan

fuji 6mp i have

cost my dad œ620 out of argos lol.....o and btw hi am new to here

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... forum1.jpg

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and if that picture is an example then it was a wasted 620.

nick
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johnrowan · June 2007

hehe no thats taken with my webcam

no batts bad point about it is that it takes duracell m + batterys and still you dont get much life with them

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 230452.jpg

Mike Deere · June 2007

I can't think of a single Fuji camera that costs œ620, apart from the discounted S3 SLR body which hasn't been made in years. And that's without a lens.

Judging by your remark about battery life I can safely say that it's not an SLR though, they tend to be a bit easier on the batteries. I used to have a Fuji S602, and the best bet I can say is to buy the AC adapter for it and some decent rechargeable batteries.

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Sir HC · June 2007

Get youself some Uniross 2700ma and a Uniross charger: Here

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BTR · June 2007

Quite embarrassed, as soon as I posted my topic I saw the sticky above. Apologies.

Looking at buying a digital SLR, something like a Canon EOS 400D.

1. Looking at lenses, would I be correct in thinking that the lower the number, for example, 18, would be used for landscapes, and the bigger the number, such as 300, would be used for 'telescopic' pictures, like a birds face from 100m away?
2. For taking pictures of extreme sports, would a shutter speed of 1/250 of a second be sufficient?
3. I'm assuming the shutter speeds vary depending on lenses?
4. Would the regular lens, 18-55 that comes with the camera, be sufficient for extreme sports shots?

Thanks for your time

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Mike Deere · June 2007

1. It varies on what you want in terms of perspective and composition.

2. 1/250th of a second is the slowest shutter speed that I'd use to get a "sharp" shot, although you'd have to be tracking/panning with the rider for it to be truly sharp. If you're using flash you can get away with slower shutter speeds if you have good technique, otherwise I'd recommend a faster shutter speed to get a truly sharp shot of a rider.

3. Yes they do. See the little "f" number after the focal range on the lens? That corresponds to how much light the lens lets in, which subsequently affects shutter speed. The 18-55 lens you mention has a maximum aperture of f/5.6 at 55mm, which for extreme sports is not that great unless you're shooting in bright sunlight or with some decent flash coverage. Look for something with either a wider aperture (which is a smaller f/number like f/2.8) or for a lens with Vibration Reduction, although these are expesive.

4. A fair few people use that lens, mostly as it comes with everyones first DSLR, although it certainly isn't the best tool for the job. Nikon make some great kit lenses like the 18-70 and 18-135 which sport larger apertures at the same focal lengths, and even Vibration Redcution at low costs in some cases. Noticeably sharper glass too.

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The Flying Pie · July 2007

If I'm not using flash or panning then I'd tend to use 1/400 as the minimum shutter speed, unless they're going really slowly. Tiny head movements can really mess things up, even at 1/250. And Mike forgot to mention that whilst VR/IS is a really useful feature, it doesn't help with sports as it doesn't make the shutter speed any faster. Fast lenses (i.e. with a small f number) are best for that, but they're pricey.

Talking of photos I'm off to the Alps at the weekend so will try and post some snaps when I get back for a bit of critique. Mind you, seeing as this is about photo stuff I'll try and embed a pic to brighten things up...

Edit - How come images show up on the preview but only the url shows when I'm viewing this from my work today?

Mike Deere · July 2007

VR/IS is perfect for Sports photos, it's the whole reason it was developed in fact. The results whilst panning are a vast improvement over non-VR lenses as it reduces camera shake in all perpendicular directions to the motion of the subject.

It's trickled down from pricey tele lenses to shorter more consumer orientated products over the last year though.

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