Di2 on a non di2 canyon frame
Finally had enough of my mechanical gears and decided to take the plunge with electric shifting. I've previously been told that my frame, the mechanical canyon ultimate frame (2014 model) is not compatible with a di2 groupset. My assumption of the problem is that the mechanical frame will not allow the di 2 wires to be threaded into the down tube and through the hole for the front mech. After some investigation however it appears you could easily get round this by splitting the di 2 cable, then soldering back together once it has been threaded through the cable port.
Assuming this is correct, anyone know if there are any other difference between the 2 frames, specifically im thinking around the bottom bracket area where I would intend to thread the wire over the bb sleave and have the junction box stuffed up the seat tube (using the seatpost battery).
May require a bit of effort, but is there any reason for thinking why this wouldn't work? Are the any other differences than the size of the cable ports?
Thanks
Assuming this is correct, anyone know if there are any other difference between the 2 frames, specifically im thinking around the bottom bracket area where I would intend to thread the wire over the bb sleave and have the junction box stuffed up the seat tube (using the seatpost battery).
May require a bit of effort, but is there any reason for thinking why this wouldn't work? Are the any other differences than the size of the cable ports?
Thanks
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Comments
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Why not increase the size of holes and save cutting and joining wires? You’ll not weaken the frame and can easily source bungs to seal around the wires at the penetrations.0
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why have you had enough of mechanical?
wouldn't it be easier/cost the to sell the whole bike and buy a di2 bike from canyon/a.n.other?Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
rafletcher wrote:Why not increase the size of holes and save cutting and joining wires? You’ll not weaken the frame and can easily source bungs to seal around the wires at the penetrations.
penetrations Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Sounds messy. What about Etape ?0
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Etape? what about it? its a ride on closed roads populated by a majority of people who take it too seriously.
now, eTap, now you're talking. that schizzle would work perfect here.
#goeTapPostby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Etap a bit out my price range and i fancy the syncro shift feature which is only available on the latest even more expensive version. New frame is under consideration, but not made up mind on that one yet.
Don't think it's that hard to split a di2 wire, 5 min job according to you tube. The issue will be how I join everything up at the junction box at the bb.0 -
I like a good challenge to make things fit where they weren’t designed to but in this instance what would you gain?
I understand the appeal of hacking di2 about but given the cost of it and the fact that you have perfectly good gears why bother? You won’t go faster, it won’t be easier to ride.
If you’ve got the cash burning a hole why not add a hidden motor to your bike? Then you’ll go faster:) AND you’ll have had a proper challenge.0 -
I have just upgraded my mechanical Canyon Ultimate CF SLX (2013) frame to Di2.
The cost of getting a new frame of similar standing was just too high, so I opted for a £1,600 Ultegra 8050 Di2 groupset from Merlin. This is the groupset with rim brakes. I needed a few extra items which came to about £30, however, the groupset came with items that I didn’t need so I sold them.
I didn’t want to drill the frame, as I was worried it could cause the frame to weaken - a Di2 cable needs a 5.5mm hole to fit the connector through and that’s quite a significant hole to make in the tube. Instead I opted the cut two of my Di2 cables and insert them through the existing holes used with the gear wires as the existing holes were large enough to fit the wire.
The cables I cut
The cable in the down tube was cut at the end nearest the junction box. As a happy coincidence, the amount of cable in the down tube is about equal to how much is needed to take the wire back to the lever. This meant that by taking all of the cable through the down tube, I could attach the cable ties to part that would remain in the down tube to silence it on bumpy roads.
The front derailleur cable also needed to be cut. Both cables were threaded into the frame at there respective exit points and out through the hole under the bottom bracket.
I located the battery in the seatpost using a simple Pro bracket/bung that I bought for under £10
I also used the bar end junction and one other 4 port junction box, which I located behind the bottom bracket.
If using the bar end junction, you need to be able to route the cable externally to connect to the levers. My bars didn’t have holes, but they were alloy so I elected to drill them. Alternatively, I could have sold them and paid £70 for a Di2 alloy bar. Note that if my bars were carbon I wouldn’t have drilled them.
The only cabling that can be seen externally is:
* rear derailleur
* front derailleur
* from the end of the bar tape to the down tube hole (it follows the line of the rear brake cable and I heat shrunk the two together to keep it looking neat)
The end result is a really neat installation.
If tackling this yourself, just make sure any existing holes will take the Di2 cable - either with the connectors (5.5mm) or without (3mm).
This shows how I routed the cables.
Parts used
* E-TUBE 350mm (EWS910H to lever)
* E-TUBE 350mm (FD)
* E-TUBE 700mm (RD)
* E-TUBE 1200mm (lever to SMJC41)
* E-TUBE 1000mm (EWS910H to EWWU111)
* E-TUBE 300mm (EWWU111 to lever)
* EWS910H
* SMJC41
* EWWU111
* BT DN110
* Waterproof heat shrink cable connectors
* Waterproof heat shrink
* Standard heat shrink0 -
Just run it round the outside of the frame and gaffer tape it.
Function, not form...1 -
£1800 for a ultra Di2????????
FUUUUUC0 -
I don't know what it cost that bloke to build his complete steel bike on the other thread, but mechanical 105 is around £400, maybe £500 for some Prime Wheels, the frame was £420 and say another £200 on bars, tyres, bar tape etc? All in for less than the cost of an electronic group set and it's an absolute stoater of a bike. You can keep your di2 I'm afraid.david37 said:£1800 for a ultra Di2????????
FUUUUUC
Edit.
Looks like 105 is nearer 600 quid now depending on version and availability but even so, point still stands.2 -
These days you'd be lucky if you can even find a complete groupsetRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
itboffin said:
These days you'd be lucky if you can even find a complete groupset
https://merlincycles.com/shimano-ultegra-r8050-di2-11-speed-groupset-104917.html
Not all options in stock admittedly but still a good choice.0 -
£1,400
seriously?.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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Wait til the last couple of bits come back in stock and buy this.
absolute no brainer.
https://www.merlincycles.com/campagnolo-chorus-12-speed-groupset-165781.html.The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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MattFalle said:
£1,400
seriously?
Overpriced certainly but with the way of the world at the moment & stock levels what they are retailers have got us by the dangly bits.
Watched a video on YT then other day with a guy who worked for Sigma & he said stock up on stuff like chains, cassettes etc cos the price will go through the roof.
Supply & demand I guess.0 -
And someone who works for a bike shop that wants to sell you stuff has no vested interest in advising you to buy stuff.ibr17xvii said:MattFalle said:£1,400
seriously?
Overpriced certainly but with the way of the world at the moment & stock levels what they are retailers have got us by the dangly bits.
Watched a video on YT then other day with a guy who worked for Sigma & he said stock up on stuff like chains, cassettes etc cos the price will go through the roof.
Supply & demand I guess.
'Hello to Jason Isaacs'0 -
schlepcycling said:
And someone who works for a bike shop that wants to sell you stuff has no vested interest in advising you to buy stuff.ibr17xvii said:MattFalle said:£1,400
seriously?
Overpriced certainly but with the way of the world at the moment & stock levels what they are retailers have got us by the dangly bits.
Watched a video on YT then other day with a guy who worked for Sigma & he said stock up on stuff like chains, cassettes etc cos the price will go through the roof.
Supply & demand I guess.
Without question but there’s no doubt stock generally is in shorter supply & prices have increased.0 -
The last time I bought a ‘bargain’ GS from that supplier ( an R7000 105 GS) it looked suspiciously like a build kit ( everything came in plain brown boxes). That said, it was a bargain, and I wasn’t complaining.ibr17xvii said:itboffin said:These days you'd be lucky if you can even find a complete groupset
https://merlincycles.com/shimano-ultegra-r8050-di2-11-speed-groupset-104917.html
Not all options in stock admittedly but still a good choice.0 -
When I bought 105 (when 5800 came out), I paid £300.
When I recently bought a new ultegra di2 rear mech, I paid nearly £3000 -
shirley_basso said:
When I bought 105 (when 5800 came out), I paid £300.
When I recently bought a new ultegra di2 rear mech, I paid nearly £300
Rear mech on Probikekit is currently under £200.0 -
Well that's a bargain.....
The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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i did some smart ebay bidding on wiggles outlet and bagged a complete R8000 groupset for £600 mechanical shifting and rim brakesRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
Cheap of course is relative....one person’s cheap is another person’s outrageously expensive...such is life.
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There is also worth paying lots for something and errrr, you paid how much for that?
This is deffo falling into the latter....The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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They turn up quite frequently on eBay for much less.
Or you just either pay it. If not you don’t ride your bike.0 -
its just consistently surprising that people will pay so much for something that doesn't operate that much better - if any at all - than a decent mechanical set up but is heavier, more complicated more error prone, more restrictive on frame choice, impossible to repair, less transferable across ranges and, some might say, uglier.
but its horses for courses i suppose: so long as people are happy thats all that matters in the crazy post Tony times..The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
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