Di2 on a non di2 canyon frame
Finally had enough of my mechanical gears and decided to take the plunge with electric shifting. I've previously been told that my frame, the mechanical canyon ultimate frame (2014 model) is not compatible with a di2 groupset. My assumption of the problem is that the mechanical frame will not allow the di 2 wires to be threaded into the down tube and through the hole for the front mech. After some investigation however it appears you could easily get round this by splitting the di 2 cable, then soldering back together once it has been threaded through the cable port.
Assuming this is correct, anyone know if there are any other difference between the 2 frames, specifically im thinking around the bottom bracket area where I would intend to thread the wire over the bb sleave and have the junction box stuffed up the seat tube (using the seatpost battery).
May require a bit of effort, but is there any reason for thinking why this wouldn't work? Are the any other differences than the size of the cable ports?
Thanks
Assuming this is correct, anyone know if there are any other difference between the 2 frames, specifically im thinking around the bottom bracket area where I would intend to thread the wire over the bb sleave and have the junction box stuffed up the seat tube (using the seatpost battery).
May require a bit of effort, but is there any reason for thinking why this wouldn't work? Are the any other differences than the size of the cable ports?
Thanks
0
Posts
wouldn't it be easier/cost the to sell the whole bike and buy a di2 bike from canyon/a.n.other?
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
penetrations
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
now, eTap, now you're talking. that schizzle would work perfect here.
#goeTap
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
Don't think it's that hard to split a di2 wire, 5 min job according to you tube. The issue will be how I join everything up at the junction box at the bb.
I understand the appeal of hacking di2 about but given the cost of it and the fact that you have perfectly good gears why bother? You won’t go faster, it won’t be easier to ride.
If you’ve got the cash burning a hole why not add a hidden motor to your bike? Then you’ll go faster:) AND you’ll have had a proper challenge.
The cost of getting a new frame of similar standing was just too high, so I opted for a £1,600 Ultegra 8050 Di2 groupset from Merlin. This is the groupset with rim brakes. I needed a few extra items which came to about £30, however, the groupset came with items that I didn’t need so I sold them.
I didn’t want to drill the frame, as I was worried it could cause the frame to weaken - a Di2 cable needs a 5.5mm hole to fit the connector through and that’s quite a significant hole to make in the tube. Instead I opted the cut two of my Di2 cables and insert them through the existing holes used with the gear wires as the existing holes were large enough to fit the wire.
The cables I cut
The cable in the down tube was cut at the end nearest the junction box. As a happy coincidence, the amount of cable in the down tube is about equal to how much is needed to take the wire back to the lever. This meant that by taking all of the cable through the down tube, I could attach the cable ties to part that would remain in the down tube to silence it on bumpy roads.
The front derailleur cable also needed to be cut. Both cables were threaded into the frame at there respective exit points and out through the hole under the bottom bracket.
I located the battery in the seatpost using a simple Pro bracket/bung that I bought for under £10
I also used the bar end junction and one other 4 port junction box, which I located behind the bottom bracket.
If using the bar end junction, you need to be able to route the cable externally to connect to the levers. My bars didn’t have holes, but they were alloy so I elected to drill them. Alternatively, I could have sold them and paid £70 for a Di2 alloy bar. Note that if my bars were carbon I wouldn’t have drilled them.
The only cabling that can be seen externally is:
* rear derailleur
* front derailleur
* from the end of the bar tape to the down tube hole (it follows the line of the rear brake cable and I heat shrunk the two together to keep it looking neat)
The end result is a really neat installation.
If tackling this yourself, just make sure any existing holes will take the Di2 cable - either with the connectors (5.5mm) or without (3mm).
This shows how I routed the cables.
Parts used
* E-TUBE 350mm (EWS910H to lever)
* E-TUBE 350mm (FD)
* E-TUBE 700mm (RD)
* E-TUBE 1200mm (lever to SMJC41)
* E-TUBE 1000mm (EWS910H to EWWU111)
* E-TUBE 300mm (EWWU111 to lever)
* EWS910H
* SMJC41
* EWWU111
* BT DN110
* Waterproof heat shrink cable connectors
* Waterproof heat shrink
* Standard heat shrink
Function, not form...
Felt Z6 2012
Red Arthur Caygill steel frame
Tall....
www.seewildlife.co.uk
FUUUUUC
Edit.
Looks like 105 is nearer 600 quid now depending on version and availability but even so, point still stands.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
https://merlincycles.com/shimano-ultegra-r8050-di2-11-speed-groupset-104917.html
Not all options in stock admittedly but still a good choice.
seriously?
absolute no brainer.
https://www.merlincycles.com/campagnolo-chorus-12-speed-groupset-165781.html
Overpriced certainly but with the way of the world at the moment & stock levels what they are retailers have got us by the dangly bits.
Watched a video on YT then other day with a guy who worked for Sigma & he said stock up on stuff like chains, cassettes etc cos the price will go through the roof.
Supply & demand I guess.
Without question but there’s no doubt stock generally is in shorter supply & prices have increased.
When I recently bought a new ultegra di2 rear mech, I paid nearly £300
Rear mech on Probikekit is currently under £200.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
It’s about as “cheap” as it gets.
This is deffo falling into the latter...
Or you just either pay it. If not you don’t ride your bike.
but its horses for courses i suppose: so long as people are happy thats all that matters in the crazy post Tony times.