Di2 on a non di2 canyon frame

tpbiker
tpbiker Posts: 24
edited April 2019 in Workshop
Finally had enough of my mechanical gears and decided to take the plunge with electric shifting. I've previously been told that my frame, the mechanical canyon ultimate frame (2014 model) is not compatible with a di2 groupset. My assumption of the problem is that the mechanical frame will not allow the di 2 wires to be threaded into the down tube and through the hole for the front mech. After some investigation however it appears you could easily get round this by splitting the di 2 cable, then soldering back together once it has been threaded through the cable port.

Assuming this is correct, anyone know if there are any other difference between the 2 frames, specifically im thinking around the bottom bracket area where I would intend to thread the wire over the bb sleave and have the junction box stuffed up the seat tube (using the seatpost battery).

May require a bit of effort, but is there any reason for thinking why this wouldn't work? Are the any other differences than the size of the cable ports?

Thanks
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Comments

  • rafletcher
    rafletcher Posts: 1,235
    Why not increase the size of holes and save cutting and joining wires? You’ll not weaken the frame and can easily source bungs to seal around the wires at the penetrations.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    why have you had enough of mechanical?

    wouldn't it be easier/cost the to sell the whole bike and buy a di2 bike from canyon/a.n.other?
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    rafletcher wrote:
    Why not increase the size of holes and save cutting and joining wires? You’ll not weaken the frame and can easily source bungs to seal around the wires at the penetrations.

    penetrations :D
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Sounds messy. What about Etape ?
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Etape? what about it? its a ride on closed roads populated by a majority of people who take it too seriously.

    now, eTap, now you're talking. that schizzle would work perfect here.

    #goeTap
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • tpbiker
    tpbiker Posts: 24
    Etap a bit out my price range and i fancy the syncro shift feature which is only available on the latest even more expensive version. New frame is under consideration, but not made up mind on that one yet.

    Don't think it's that hard to split a di2 wire, 5 min job according to you tube. The issue will be how I join everything up at the junction box at the bb.
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    I like a good challenge to make things fit where they weren’t designed to but in this instance what would you gain?

    I understand the appeal of hacking di2 about but given the cost of it and the fact that you have perfectly good gears why bother? You won’t go faster, it won’t be easier to ride.

    If you’ve got the cash burning a hole why not add a hidden motor to your bike? Then you’ll go faster:) AND you’ll have had a proper challenge.
  • I have just upgraded my mechanical Canyon Ultimate CF SLX (2013) frame to Di2.

    The cost of getting a new frame of similar standing was just too high, so I opted for a £1,600 Ultegra 8050 Di2 groupset from Merlin. This is the groupset with rim brakes. I needed a few extra items which came to about £30, however, the groupset came with items that I didn’t need so I sold them.

    I didn’t want to drill the frame, as I was worried it could cause the frame to weaken - a Di2 cable needs a 5.5mm hole to fit the connector through and that’s quite a significant hole to make in the tube. Instead I opted the cut two of my Di2 cables and insert them through the existing holes used with the gear wires as the existing holes were large enough to fit the wire.

    The cables I cut
    The cable in the down tube was cut at the end nearest the junction box. As a happy coincidence, the amount of cable in the down tube is about equal to how much is needed to take the wire back to the lever. This meant that by taking all of the cable through the down tube, I could attach the cable ties to part that would remain in the down tube to silence it on bumpy roads.

    The front derailleur cable also needed to be cut. Both cables were threaded into the frame at there respective exit points and out through the hole under the bottom bracket.

    I located the battery in the seatpost using a simple Pro bracket/bung that I bought for under £10

    I also used the bar end junction and one other 4 port junction box, which I located behind the bottom bracket.

    If using the bar end junction, you need to be able to route the cable externally to connect to the levers. My bars didn’t have holes, but they were alloy so I elected to drill them. Alternatively, I could have sold them and paid £70 for a Di2 alloy bar. Note that if my bars were carbon I wouldn’t have drilled them.

    The only cabling that can be seen externally is:
    * rear derailleur
    * front derailleur
    * from the end of the bar tape to the down tube hole (it follows the line of the rear brake cable and I heat shrunk the two together to keep it looking neat)

    The end result is a really neat installation.

    If tackling this yourself, just make sure any existing holes will take the Di2 cable - either with the connectors (5.5mm) or without (3mm).

    This shows how I routed the cables.


    Parts used
    * E-TUBE 350mm (EWS910H to lever)
    * E-TUBE 350mm (FD)
    * E-TUBE 700mm (RD)
    * E-TUBE 1200mm (lever to SMJC41)
    * E-TUBE 1000mm (EWS910H to EWWU111)
    * E-TUBE 300mm (EWWU111 to lever)
    * EWS910H
    * SMJC41
    * EWWU111
    * BT DN110
    * Waterproof heat shrink cable connectors
    * Waterproof heat shrink
    * Standard heat shrink
  • elbowloh
    elbowloh Posts: 7,078
    Just run it round the outside of the frame and gaffer tape it.

    Function, not form...
    Felt F1 2014
    Felt Z6 2012
    Red Arthur Caygill steel frame
    Tall....
    www.seewildlife.co.uk
  • david37
    david37 Posts: 1,313
    £1800 for a ultra Di2????????


    FUUUUUC
  • shortfall
    shortfall Posts: 3,288
    edited March 2021
    david37 said:

    £1800 for a ultra Di2????????


    FUUUUUC

    I don't know what it cost that bloke to build his complete steel bike on the other thread, but mechanical 105 is around £400, maybe £500 for some Prime Wheels, the frame was £420 and say another £200 on bars, tyres, bar tape etc? All in for less than the cost of an electronic group set and it's an absolute stoater of a bike. You can keep your di2 I'm afraid.

    Edit.
    Looks like 105 is nearer 600 quid now depending on version and availability but even so, point still stands.
  • moonshine
    moonshine Posts: 1,021
    david37 said:

    £1800 for a ultra Di2????????


    FUUUUUC

    Wow!, i got my entire Cervelo C3 with Ultegra Di2 11sp 3 yrs ago for £2500!
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    These days you'd be lucky if you can even find a complete groupset
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    itboffin said:

    These days you'd be lucky if you can even find a complete groupset


    https://merlincycles.com/shimano-ultegra-r8050-di2-11-speed-groupset-104917.html


    Not all options in stock admittedly but still a good choice.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    £1,400


    seriously?
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    moonshine said:

    david37 said:

    £1800 for a ultra Di2????????


    FUUUUUC

    Wow!, i got my entire Cervelo C3 with Ultegra Di2 11sp 3 yrs ago for £2500!
    yup on both counts. thats ridiculous money for a "second" tier groupset.

    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    Wait til the last couple of bits come back in stock and buy this.

    absolute no brainer.

    https://www.merlincycles.com/campagnolo-chorus-12-speed-groupset-165781.html
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    MattFalle said:

    £1,400


    seriously?


    Overpriced certainly but with the way of the world at the moment & stock levels what they are retailers have got us by the dangly bits.

    Watched a video on YT then other day with a guy who worked for Sigma & he said stock up on stuff like chains, cassettes etc cos the price will go through the roof.

    Supply & demand I guess.
  • schlepcycling
    schlepcycling Posts: 1,614
    ibr17xvii said:

    MattFalle said:

    £1,400


    seriously?


    Overpriced certainly but with the way of the world at the moment & stock levels what they are retailers have got us by the dangly bits.

    Watched a video on YT then other day with a guy who worked for Sigma & he said stock up on stuff like chains, cassettes etc cos the price will go through the roof.

    Supply & demand I guess.
    And someone who works for a bike shop that wants to sell you stuff has no vested interest in advising you to buy stuff.
    'Hello to Jason Isaacs'
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065

    ibr17xvii said:

    MattFalle said:

    £1,400


    seriously?


    Overpriced certainly but with the way of the world at the moment & stock levels what they are retailers have got us by the dangly bits.

    Watched a video on YT then other day with a guy who worked for Sigma & he said stock up on stuff like chains, cassettes etc cos the price will go through the roof.

    Supply & demand I guess.
    And someone who works for a bike shop that wants to sell you stuff has no vested interest in advising you to buy stuff.

    Without question but there’s no doubt stock generally is in shorter supply & prices have increased.
  • ibr17xvii said:

    itboffin said:

    These days you'd be lucky if you can even find a complete groupset


    https://merlincycles.com/shimano-ultegra-r8050-di2-11-speed-groupset-104917.html


    Not all options in stock admittedly but still a good choice.
    The last time I bought a ‘bargain’ GS from that supplier ( an R7000 105 GS) it looked suspiciously like a build kit ( everything came in plain brown boxes). That said, it was a bargain, and I wasn’t complaining.
  • shirley_basso
    shirley_basso Posts: 6,195
    edited March 2021
    When I bought 105 (when 5800 came out), I paid £300.

    When I recently bought a new ultegra di2 rear mech, I paid nearly £300
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065

    When I bought 105 (when 5800 came out), I paid £300.

    When I recently bought a new ultegra di2 rear mech, I paid nearly £300


    Rear mech on Probikekit is currently under £200.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    Well that's a bargain....
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    i did some smart ebay bidding on wiggles outlet and bagged a complete R8000 groupset for £600 mechanical shifting and rim brakes
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    MattFalle said:

    Well that's a bargain....


    It’s about as “cheap” as it gets.
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Cheap of course is relative....one person’s cheap is another person’s outrageously expensive...such is life. ;)
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    edited March 2021
    There is also worth paying lots for something and errrr, you paid how much for that?

    This is deffo falling into the latter...
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • ibr17xvii
    ibr17xvii Posts: 1,065
    They turn up quite frequently on eBay for much less.

    Or you just either pay it. If not you don’t ride your bike.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    its just consistently surprising that people will pay so much for something that doesn't operate that much better - if any at all - than a decent mechanical set up but is heavier, more complicated more error prone, more restrictive on frame choice, impossible to repair, less transferable across ranges and, some might say, uglier.

    but its horses for courses i suppose: so long as people are happy thats all that matters in the crazy post Tony times.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.