When should I replace chain and rear cassette
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That's not what you said earlier and you know it. Unless you're in the habit of running your chain to the point it's 1000 miles past the point of replacement (and thus giving your cassette 'chain memory') you can quite comfortably get three or four chains worth of use out of a cassette. More if you clean and lube regularly. You said you always replace your cassette when you replace your chain - so either you don't practice what you preach regarding chain wear assessment, have a bottomless pit of cash to invest in replacing components unnecessarily, have shares in Shimano/SRAM/Camapg, are an idiot, or are trollingTetragrammaton1 wrote:Anyway, back on topic. If you wanted to be very clear about the issue of cassette / chain changing frequencies, the best way to think about it is, if you’ve got a chain wear checker, and you change the chain when it indicates it’s time to do so, and ( importantly ) it hasn’t started slipping, you could get multiple chain changes with 1 cassette. However, if you need to change the chain because it has been slipping, you will almost certainly will need a new cassette as well. If you put a new chain, on a cassette that’s has a slipping chain used on it for any time / mileage, it will knacker the new chain, in short order, hence the phrase that pays. If you’re using high end cassettes, that are going to cost 150 odd quid a pop, it’s probably best to get a chain wear checker, and check the chain regularly, that way you won’t end up spending loads more than you need to.
Definitively, for anyone happening by here and wanting the correct information and alighting on this post (rather than the dozens of others further up the thread that have also given the right advice):
Get a chain wear indicator, and use it frequently. Use the 0.5mm wear side and, when it starts to get to the point that it drops between the links easily, have a think about/start budgeting for a new chain. If you can afford it, replace it then. if not, you've probably got about another 500 miles (maybe less in shite weather/winter) before it starts to wear your cassette out. Replace the chain within this timeframe and you'll get three chains worth of wear on your cassette before you need to think about changing it. Even then, I'd only really worry about it if I raced, or did hard efforts, that might leave you with an expensive trip to the dentist after you unexpectedly spit a few cogs down the block...Fat chopper. Some racing. Some testing. Some crashing.
Specialising in Git Daaahns and Cafs. Norvern Munkey/Transplanted Laaandoner.0 -
I was the op on this thread and did purchase a chain wear tool. It showed that after 4,000 miles my chain wear is a little less than .75 so, no need to replace it yet, but probably after a few hundred miles. I also seem to have started a debate as to whether you need to change the cassette at the same time as the worn chain. It seems from contributors that very few people put a new cassette on with the first worn out chain and the cassette stays good, so i'll go through another chain before replacing the cassette and see how I get on. I did have a chuckle at " You can't teach an old cog new links" but me thinks you can, providing you monitor chain wear and don't let it go to far and clean and lube regularly.0
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'Very few people' in this case means one, and he was probably lying anyway.0
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4000 miles with such low wear is pretty good. You must be a spinner.
With campagnolo chains if you change at 0.75% wear on a chain checker its too late the cassette is likely to be abit worn and the next chain give surprising short life. Campag ask you use a vernier and it equates to about 0.5% on a checker but it take a while to get to that point.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Using a chain checker, I was always under the impression that if your checker shows wear of 0.75, you should replace the chain, if it shows 1.0, you should replace the chain and the cassette.
Is my impression correct?
Genuine question.Wilier Izoard XP0 -
laurentian wrote:Using a chain checker, I was always under the impression that if your checker shows wear of 0.75, you should replace the chain, if it shows 1.0, you should replace the chain and the cassette.
Is my impression correct?
Genuine question.
I don’t think that’s the official line. 0.75 is the warning level, and 1.0 is the action level.0 -
That would be Milemuncher...Svetty wrote:Ericshun wrote:I don’t think that’s the official line. 0.75 is the warning level, and 1.0 is the action level.
And the official authority is?Fat chopper. Some racing. Some testing. Some crashing.
Specialising in Git Daaahns and Cafs. Norvern Munkey/Transplanted Laaandoner.0 -
Svetty wrote:Ericshun wrote:I don’t think that’s the official line. 0.75 is the warning level, and 1.0 is the action level.
And the official authority is?
The markings on most commonly available chain checkers.
Like this one.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kmc-regular-chain-checker/
Or this one
https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... reId=100010 -
So I have just replaced the chain but not cassette and it slipping without much effort,I take it the old chain has killed my cassette probably left it to long?put the old chain back on to get me to work does this sound about right TIA0
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yip, sounds like your cassette needs replaced too, this happened to me last year too0
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Is it only me that sees this thread with a new reply and instantly opens it to see what new username Prendiville has registered?Fat chopper. Some racing. Some testing. Some crashing.
Specialising in Git Daaahns and Cafs. Norvern Munkey/Transplanted Laaandoner.0 -
Anyone tried this app on chain wear? https://goo.gl/6g9iBT on cyclingapps.net0
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Cruff wrote:Is it only me that sees this thread with a new reply and instantly opens it to see what new username Prendiville has registered?
Your not alone in that one0 -
Ah, here’s your problem:
Too many hooks spoil the cog.
You can take a chain to cogs but you can’t make it link.
There’s many a slip twixt cog and link.
It’s no use crying over a slipped link.Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere0 -
Wish I had seen this topic sooner, Some good tips here.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8LqTmvuf6tw
Old cogs new tricks have you ever heard such tripe0 -
Mumble mumble, something about milk, skimming and cream, mumble mumble...murf1480 wrote:Wish I had seen this topic sooner, Some good tips here.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8LqTmvuf6tw
Old cogs new tricks have you ever heard such tripeFat chopper. Some racing. Some testing. Some crashing.
Specialising in Git Daaahns and Cafs. Norvern Munkey/Transplanted Laaandoner.0 -
Cruff wrote:
Mumble mumble, something about milk, skimming and cream, mumble mumble...murf1480 wrote:Wish I had seen this topic sooner, Some good tips here.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8LqTmvuf6tw
Old cogs new tricks have you ever heard such tripe
:?: :?: :?:0 -
Something Prendiville posted on here before his posts were expunged...murf1480 wrote:Cruff wrote:
Mumble mumble, something about milk, skimming and cream, mumble mumble...murf1480 wrote:Wish I had seen this topic sooner, Some good tips here.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8LqTmvuf6tw
Old cogs new tricks have you ever heard such tripe
:?: :?: :?:Fat chopper. Some racing. Some testing. Some crashing.
Specialising in Git Daaahns and Cafs. Norvern Munkey/Transplanted Laaandoner.0 -
Cruff wrote:
Something Prendiville posted on here before his posts were expunged...murf1480 wrote:Cruff wrote:
Mumble mumble, something about milk, skimming and cream, mumble mumble...murf1480 wrote:Wish I had seen this topic sooner, Some good tips here.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8LqTmvuf6tw
Old cogs new tricks have you ever heard such tripe
:?: :?: :?:
Sorry a little out of the loop0
