Chain quick links or whatever you want to call them...

bungle73
bungle73 Posts: 758
edited August 2017 in Workshop
Is it just me that thinks that these things are a gigantic PITA?? Just bought a new chain, and I'm having enormous trouble getting the thing connected. I manged to do it once, but then realised the the chain wasn't routed through the derailleur correctly, so I had to undo it and start again! And then one side dropped on the garage floor and I thought I'd lost it. I still don't have it on!

I don't see what the point of these is? What's wrong with using a good old fashioned joining pin? It's simple, and easy to fit. The big selling point of these things that supposed to not need tools is total bs anyway, because once it's on you're going to need some sort of tool to get it off.
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Comments

  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    Are you being serious, they are the easiest thing in the world to work with...

    Refit the chain on the small ring at the front and back (most slack in chain), literally takes 2 seconds.
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • mfin
    mfin Posts: 6,729
    :) is this a joke?

    You can't blame a quick link for you failing to thread a chain properly.

    They are so easy to use. Here's a tip for working with them....

    Get a 10 cm length of old spoke and bend each end back on itself just past 90degrees. Feed the chain through and hook each end of it onto an end of this bit of spoke a link away from where you wanna join it. You then have everything held there and slack ready for joining or unjoining. Put the link on, and then remove the spoke thing. (Do the same in reverse when taking it off, so you're always doing everything on a slack bit of chain).

    Oh, the dedicated pliers for removing them are cheap and sort of worth it if you do them a lot, but not necessary really.

    The quicklinks are idiot proof really.
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    It IS on the smallest! I think I'm going to throw the bloody thing in the bin. Can I use a Shimano joining pin on a KMC chain?

    And I'm already using a wire thing that came with my multi tool.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Can't be serious.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    The thing won't stay together, and the so-called instructions are as much use as a chocolate fireguard.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Push the sides together so the little ends are through the plates and pull.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Take the chain off the inner ring so you've a bit more slack to play with when you connect it up.

    It's really easy - and better for you if you cant thread it the right way thru the rear mech ;-)
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    The trickiest bit is getting the two links together to start with - but having seen that suggesiton of using an old spoke to tie the chain together I'm going to give that a go ...

    Couple of years ago - did a sportive with a friend - 1/2way up the climb his chain broke - he walked to the top (where I was waiting) and within 5 minutes we'd used the chainbreak tool to clear out the broken bits and inserted a quicklink and were on our way - there's no way I'd go back to having to try and fit a normal link whilst on the go ...

    Quick links for fitting the chain to start with? Up to you - you could not if you didn't want to, but for me - its much easier when removing the chain for cleaning or replacing ... almost makes chaintools superfluous ...
  • Vslowpace
    Vslowpace Posts: 189
    The trickiest bit is getting them out of the packet
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    I've done it! I couldn't get it to pull it apart so it would lock. I still say the pins are far more user friendly.

    And now I can get the wire thing to clip back onto the multi tool!
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    Ah - you join the chain when it's on the bottom - between rear mech and chainring - then when joined - back pedal so the link goes up the top between cassette and chainring - then, holding the backwheel, just apply a bit of forward pressure to the pedal ... ping ... in it goes :)
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    Slowbike wrote:
    Ah - you join the chain when it's on the bottom - between rear mech and chainring - then when joined - back pedal so the link goes up the top between cassette and chainring - then, holding the backwheel, just apply a bit of forward pressure to the pedal ... ping ... in it goes :)

    But if I let go it just fell apart.
  • lesfirth
    lesfirth Posts: 1,382
    Bungle73 wrote:
    I've done it! I couldn't get it to pull it apart so it would lock. I still say the pins are far more user friendly.

    And now I can get the wire thing to clip back onto the multi tool!

    OK ,so use a f**king pin and your chain tool and stop wasting your time on this forum!
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    Bungle73 wrote:
    Slowbike wrote:
    Ah - you join the chain when it's on the bottom - between rear mech and chainring - then when joined - back pedal so the link goes up the top between cassette and chainring - then, holding the backwheel, just apply a bit of forward pressure to the pedal ... ping ... in it goes :)

    But if I let go it just fell apart.

    Hmm - can't say mine have ever done that - once you've got them connected together but not seated they've always just run around to the top ...
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Bungle73 wrote:

    But if I let go it just fell apart.

    It wont fall apart if theres tension in the chain ?

    THeres loads of vids on youtube anyway - go look there to see how to do it properly.
  • Rodrego Hernandez
    Rodrego Hernandez Posts: 1,436
    Have you still got the receipt for the bike?
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    Fenix wrote:
    Bungle73 wrote:

    But if I let go it just fell apart.

    It wont fall apart if theres tension in the chain ?

    THeres loads of vids on youtube anyway - go look there to see how to do it properly.
    I can't put tension on the chain at the same time as holding it together, I've only got one pair of hands! I've watched a video and it wasn't much help.
    Rodrego Hernandez wrote:
    Have you still got the receipt for the bike?
    Receipt for the bike?
  • noodleman
    noodleman Posts: 852
    You don't need to hold it together! Just slot the pins into the corresponding holes and slowly rotate the cranks so the quicklink is running towards the front mech. Hold the front brake on and put some pressure on the pedal. It really is way easier than the pin system.
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  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    noodleman wrote:
    You don't need to hold it together! Just slot the pins into the corresponding holes and slowly rotate the cranks so the quicklink is running towards the front mech. Hold the front brake on and put some pressure on the pedal. It really is way easier than the pin system.

    I do, otherwise it falls apart. And what's the big problem with pins? You just put one in and screw it in. It takes seconds, not like this pos.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    Lets hope you have routed the chain thru the rear mech the right way.... if you have to take it apart again, I foresee your ISP sending you the bill for an overloaded node.
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,334
    fitting a link is much faster than fitting a pin

    which one? you say you "had to undo it and start again", some are single-use, if you messed it up by forcing it off you'll need to get a new link
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    sungod wrote:
    fitting a link is much faster than fitting a pin

    which one? you say you "had to undo it and start again", some are single-use, if you messed it up by forcing it off you'll need to get a new link

    The one that came with the chain. Apparently you can use it 3 times.
  • big_harv
    big_harv Posts: 512
    Lbs laddie.
  • trailflow
    trailflow Posts: 1,311
    Invest in a set of these. They open and close the links

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-Chain ... Swuq9ZaRqF
  • fat daddy
    fat daddy Posts: 2,605
    quick links are one of the best advances in cycling technology IMO :D ...... my best tip for them is invest in a pack of latex gloves that way you can stop d1cking about trying not to get dirty hands and just grab the components with your hands and pull them together

    seconds to take a chain off and refit
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    trailflow wrote:
    Invest in a set of these. They open and close the links

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-Chain ... Swuq9ZaRqF
    They're too big to take on a ride unless I have bag with me. Joining pins are small.
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    fat daddy wrote:
    quick links are one of the best advances in cycling technology IMO :D ...... my best tip for them is invest in a pack of latex gloves that way you can stop d1cking about trying not to get dirty hands and just grab the components with your hands and pull them together

    seconds to take a chain off and refit

    Er there was nothing wrong with the way I was holding it. Joining pins are far, far easier.
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    I still think this is a wind-up.

    Joining pins are SO much more faff compared to quick-links!
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    Ryan_W wrote:
    I still think this is a wind-up.

    Joining pins are SO much more faff compared to quick-links!

    How's that? You put one in, and then screw it in. Were is the faff in that?

    And let me say that this is not the first time I've had issues trying to fit one of these damn things. It seems to be that someone in some marketing department has declared them "better" and everyone believes them.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Screw it in? I thought you had to push it in. Then break off the head with pliers?

    Some marketing dept, and the whole world (except for some egg at Shimano) have deemed master links better, because they are.

    Before narrow chains (9 and 10 speed) master links were the norm.
    I don't do smileys.

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