Tubular tyre is better or clincher?
Kiki001
Posts: 29
What do you guys think about tubular tyre and clincher tyre? Which do you prefer? 
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It's a subjective question and won't make your decision for you. Tubs are great. Lighter, roll better, less punctures, easy to replace a tyre at the roadside in quicker time than to fix a clincher and in my experience, cheaper than clincher wheels. But, tyres are expensive, difficult to patch if you need to and a spare is bulkier than a spare inner tube or two. If the wheels have internal spoke nipples, you can't true them without removing the tub first.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0
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Tublulars still are of benefit when it comes to carbon rims (stronger, lighter, less damage prone) and cyclo-cross (lower-pressures, puncture resistance) and ride-flat-ability (in a race). For more general riding, tubeless offers the lowest rolling resistance and least chance of impact punctures (no inner tube). Finally, there's purely the final matter of the lovely feel of a decent tubular and the noise they make on smooth tarmac.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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If money was no object probably tubs. A team car also helps.
For me though - clinchers are better and more durable than tubs.
What are you planning on using them for ?0 -
Oh I remember you now. Just get normal tyres. Much easier for a beginner to cope with. You don't want to have to worry about gluing things on. Much more choice too.0
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tubular on the MTB, clincher on the road0
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fat daddy wrote:tubular on the MTB, clincher on the road
Curious to know why you say that?0 -
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kayakerchris wrote:are you sure you mean tubular and not tubeless?
BAAAHHHH !!!!!
Skim reading failure ..... no ... no ... just failure
Yes I meant tubeless ..... ignore me .... wasn't paying attention. See in the last 10years I have gone from buying a wheel and a tire to going out and buying a wheel and being faced with 24, 26, 27,5,29 700c ? ... 100, 110, 120, 130mm, tubular, tubless or clincher 9mm 10mm 14mm axel ? .... disk or rim
toooooo many standards, I cant cope.
I want for a world where we can go back to 16 colour ega and 26" wheels0 -
bernithebiker wrote:fat daddy wrote:tubular on the MTB, clincher on the road
Curious to know why you say that?
ah, because I wasn't paying attention to the question ..... I meant tubeless .... not tubular .. which further makes my answer completely redundant :oops:0 -
I like both; though I suspect that tubeless will become the standard for recreational road riding. Sticking on tubs isn't at all difficult, and they work very well with sealant, so there's no reason to worry about using them. If you do get a flat that sealant can't fix, there isn't very much difference between swapping to a pre-glued spare tub and changing tubes.0
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^whsI'm sorry you don't believe in miracles0
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I swapped out my carbon 50mm tubular wheels (FF 5FRs) for a set of 50mm carbon clinchers (Campag Bullet Ultras). The tubs rolled better ( and sounded cool as fuk) but I was always concerned if I puncture im screwed even with sealant in them. I also realised mega light carbon rims are only better than slightly heavier clinchers where I had to accelerate alot wheras the clinchers keep their speed better on the flat and on short climbs. I know this isn't the case for all but for the 2 wheelsets I had do.0
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Carbonator wrote:fat daddy wrote:tubular on the MTB, clincher on the road
Epic Fail.
Have you used tubular road tyres?
Why not tubeless (what you meant to say for MTB) on the road?
He did acknowledge that but you looked that far down didn't you?0 -
Maglia Rosa wrote:Carbonator wrote:fat daddy wrote:tubular on the MTB, clincher on the road
Epic Fail.
Have you used tubular road tyres?
Why not tubeless (what you meant to say for MTB) on the road?
He did acknowledge that but you looked that far down didn't you?
Yep, looked/saw, but I still had questions that were additional to the fail
The OP had a decent question that deserved more thatn an 'airline cut' answer, but if you are going to bother giving one at least read the question and get your facts right!
Maybe he has ridden a road tubular, or tubeless, or latex before plumping for 1968 butyl as the best option though :?0 -
Carbonator wrote:Maglia Rosa wrote:Carbonator wrote:fat daddy wrote:tubular on the MTB, clincher on the road
Epic Fail.
Have you used tubular road tyres?
Why not tubeless (what you meant to say for MTB) on the road?
He did acknowledge that but you looked that far down didn't you?
Yep, looked/saw, but I still had questions that were additional to the fail
The OP had a decent question that deserved more thatn an 'airline cut' answer, but if you are going to bother giving one at least read the fcuking question and get your facts right!
Maybe he has ridden a road tubular, or tubeless, or latex before plumping for 1968 butyl as the best option though :?
Well you never suggested that. You just wanted to mock. But if you want to be an abusive go ahead.0 -
Er, think I did. What did you think the questions were?
I do not want to mock or be abusive, but some people ask for it.
If you have never used tubular, then you have no right to be answering the question.
If you have then I think the answer would be different
The OP really needs to just try them, rather than ask a question that gets answered by people who haven't.0 -
Carbonator wrote:
The OP really needs to just try them, rather than ask a question that gets answered by people who haven't.
Er. Not sure if you realised but buying wheels , be them clincher or tubular is not exactly pocket change. You can say 'just try them ' but unless he knows someone who can lend a set - which in this case is unlikely or he may have done so before asking the question - its not so such a trivial question. A half decent set of tubular wheels is the best part of a grand and if you decide they are not the best option its a ludicrously expensive test. And since you did read every post you obviously read mine and my previous experience with tubs.0 -
I like tubulars during the summer. Easy to change and I have three puncture repair options.
1. Sealent. Carry Tufo bottle which is tiny and is good for two applications
2. Couple of patches as emergency outside repairs if that doesn't work
3. Lightweight Tufo tubeless tub which is the same size as an innertube
Only reason for not using in winter is that ........ I don't know? I suppose clinchers last longer and cost less and all cheap wheels are clinchers.0 -
Tiesetrotter wrote:I like tubulars during the summer. Easy to change and I have three puncture repair options.
1. Sealent. Carry Tufo bottle which is tiny and is good for two applications
2. Couple of patches as emergency outside repairs if that doesn't work
3. Lightweight Tufo tubeless tub which is the same size as an innertube
Only reason for not using in winter is that ........ I don't know? I suppose clinchers last longer and cost less and all cheap wheels are clinchers.
Good points there; do you use glue with your patches or do they just stick on their own?
I pay 40 Euros for Vittoria CX's which is comparable to a good quality clincher and tube. I think their wear rate is comparable to clinchers. And you can buy cheap tubular wheels just as well as clinchers.0 -
Having ridden through glass and other sharp objects that have punctured both tyres I can say I wouldn't want to have to pop both tubs. I could pop a clincher and have it changed in under 5 minutes. If you pop a tubular and you can't fix it with sealant - a big cut or hole will not seal, you have to swap your tyre over. Which needs to be glued on. Removing a glued on tyre is a chore at any time ( and if it isnt you didnt have it glued on enough which is pretty dangerous) i can carry 2 spare innertubes and a pack of patches if I get a 3rd or 4th puncture. On a long ride its not inconceivable for this to happen. I will keep tubs for racing and thats it. I don't even put Tubs on my TT bike outside of competition any more. I would rather just roll along on clinchers and not worry about the speed difference. Its only training. But if people want to always be fastest on Strava I guess they will take the risk for a fleeting moment of kudos.0
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Maglia Rosa wrote:Carbonator wrote:
The OP really needs to just try them, rather than ask a question that gets answered by people who haven't.
Er. Not sure if you realised but buying wheels , be them clincher or tubular is not exactly pocket change. You can say 'just try them ' but unless he knows someone who can lend a set - which in this case is unlikely or he may have done so before asking the question - its not so such a trivial question. A half decent set of tubular wheels is the best part of a grand and if you decide they are not the best option its a ludicrously expensive test. And since you did read every post you obviously read mine and my previous experience with tubs.
Yeah, its a tough one financially, but there is really no other way of knowing.
People who have tried them will probably have mixed feelings, and those that have not are irrelevant and should not even be commenting.
The issues around punctures are known to all and so they do not come into it.
If someone is considering them then that really just leaves a leap of faith IMO.
I am certainly glad I tried them.
Depends on your use though.
I am undecided on which to go for on upcoming wheel purchase TBH, and will probably go clincher.0 -
Clincher every time, after 10years or more of use they have finally found-out you can train/race/commute,in fact just about everything with tyres and tubes and more that you ever needed, back in 1980 i did everything on 27x1.1/4 tyres even with winter tread pattern.?0
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With clinchers you've just got to hope you don't have a blow out descending at 50mph, tubulars will stay safely on your rim.
The puncture issue is a red herring: tubulars usually fix with sealant, otherwise a spare is easier to fit than a clincher. Plus, you get a new tyre, so no worries if you get a big cut; and how many people have failed to remove the sharp from a clincher and punctured the second tube.
I run Clement LGG tubeless tubulars which are expensive, but last forever, they just don't cut up, and because there's no inner tube the sealant really well.0 -
I use geax sagaro tubulars on my 29er. I have dugast fast birds too. I dont just use them for racing either. I ride on them weekly. I pinched flatted on them once as part of long ride and rode the 30 miles home on a flat. The carbon rim was fine. Stuck a new tub on and all has been well since. I use tubs on my road bikes too and they are lovely and practical. For the road bikes i carry a can of pitstop and a spare tub. I glue my tubs onto my wheels so changing one at the side of the road is not hassle. I use conti tubs alot and i dont have alot of issues with them. I use them all year round.
Tubeless tyres on my other 29er and a three road bikes are serving very well too.
Clinchers just let me down.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
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thecycleclinic wrote:I glue my tubs onto my wheels so changing one at the side of the road is not hassle. .
If you can remove a glued on tubular easily on the side of the road, you didn't glue it on well enough. That thing is likely to come off one day at speed. If if that one doesn't the new one very well could if cement hasn't cured.0 -
Maglia Rosa wrote:thecycleclinic wrote:I glue my tubs onto my wheels so changing one at the side of the road is not hassle. .
If you can remove a glued on tubular easily on the side of the road, you didn't glue it on well enough. That thing is likely to come off one day at speed. If if that one doesn't the new one very well could if cement hasn't cured.
Surely removing a tubular by the road side is no different than removing one at home, and you have to be able to get the things off to replace the tyre.0 -
joe2008 wrote:Maglia Rosa wrote:thecycleclinic wrote:I glue my tubs onto my wheels so changing one at the side of the road is not hassle. .
If you can remove a glued on tubular easily on the side of the road, you didn't glue it on well enough. That thing is likely to come off one day at speed. If if that one doesn't the new one very well could if cement hasn't cured.
Surely removing a tubular by the road side is no different than removing one at home, and you have to be able to get the things off to replace the tyre.
Yes but how long does it take you to just rip it off and then remove all the old glue (which you really need to do as chances are if you are doing this on the side of the road its going to get contaminated with dirt) before putting the new one one? And for cement to cure properly takes a few hours at least. I wouldn't feel safe riding at speed or descending on a tyre that wasn't glued on properly.0
