Too cold to commute?
dave35
Posts: 1,124
What's the min. Temp you commute in?
Getting a bit chilly in the morning now-I leave for work 6:30/7 a.m,starting to worry about slippery road surfaces a lot.
So when is it too cold to commute by bike?
Getting a bit chilly in the morning now-I leave for work 6:30/7 a.m,starting to worry about slippery road surfaces a lot.
So when is it too cold to commute by bike?
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It depends on where you ride to a point. Well gritted urban main roads are fine long after ungritted minor roads have turned to black ice and not thawed during the day. Also if it has been very dry little ice will have formed and account for wind chill. Any doubts don't risk it, my rough guide is ice on top of the car means too risky for me.0
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I don't have a minimum temperature, I have spiked tyres available... if in doubt I ride them.
Great winter training aid, after a couple of weeks riding them on the commute I absolutely flew on the club run.0 -
Commuted last winter from Chorley to Manchester multiple times at freezing point. Agree re: main roads. I used the A6 the entire way, so not an issue for me - but a few of the roads getting out of my village before hitting the main road were dicey before dawn. I would be ultra careful if you use any lanes - especially if they have growth either side of themFat chopper. Some racing. Some testing. Some crashing.
Specialising in Git Daaahns and Cafs. Norvern Munkey/Transplanted Laaandoner.0 -
Too cold or too icey?
i'm fairly cold tolerant, plus London even outer bits never get truely that cold, ie below -10.
Ice is rare these parts, and true ice sheets are rare normally compacted snow and what not which MTB tyres at least at worse work acceptably.0 -
Without studded ice tyres, which I don't have down here, I'm not going to risk it. It's all back roads and it has been wet yesterday - there will be pockets of ice. It's just not worth it. I have a turbo.
Studded tyres (especially Ice Spiker Pros) are excellent and I've used these throughout Scottish winters.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
any temp so long as there's not significant ice on the roads, i've done that in the past and dont plan on doing it again. Down here in the deep SW its not uncommon to have 0c temps in the so called summer morningsRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
No such thing as too cold for me.
I'd rather take the bike than the car if it is snowing, as I can always walk the bike if I really have to.
Whilst I am fine with driving in the snow everyone else is an idiot and intend of sliding into my car, so using the bike is a damage limitation exercise.
Black ice is a bit of an issue at times, but its just about taking care.0 -
Yeah - any temperature here as well, otherwise there's be loads of time when I couldn't ride (it is the north east of Scotland!)
Spiked tyres are on and stay on until Spring - although we've had very little ice recently - just lots and lots of rain!Cannondale CAADX Tiagra 2017
Revolution Courier Race Disc '14
My Strava0 -
I'm an all-year-round commuter too, particularly as I don't really have a viable alternative as I live out of town and there isn't a decent bus service.
So it's just a case of wrap up warm and spiked tyres. In previous years I've had the spiked tyres on from November-April, but it has been so mild so far this winter that I haven't put them on yet. And I'm getting a new bike which means that I can have my current one set up with the spiked tyres and then choose between the two bikes each morning based on the weather.0 -
The coldest I've commuted in -10C 2-3 winters ago including one very icy morning of freezing rain when nothing else was moving but the marathon winters did the job. Just don't get a puncture with them.0
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When you can't keep it black side down.
21st Century bike kit is really very very good in cold weather .0 -
I'm intending to cycle throughout the winter - I've spend the money on winter cycling clothing now, so I feel the need to justify it. In theory, -10°C should be possible.
However, I've not got any spiked tyres, so ice will be the limiting factor, but 99% of my cycling is on the gritting route, it "Shouldn't" be a problem.Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...0 -
Do make sensible choices, folks. Every year we have a spate of injuries caused by ice - often involving experienced commuters. I'll go out in pretty much any weather but ONLY if I'm equipped for it. Discretion and all that...
The thing I hate about ice is just how fast everything happens. There have been a couple of occasions when, towards the end of winter and sick of doing 35 miles a day on an MTB with studded MTB tyres, I've taken the road bike. When the rear wheel steps out on a pedal stroke, you know there's no grip and the ride (steep descents in particular) becomes very uncomfortable.
My brother came off on ice last winter (went down in sympathy with another rider in his group) and ended up needing quite a lot of hospital treatment.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19777040#p19777040]Snakebite the 2nd[/url] wrote:I'd rather take the bike than the car if it is snowing, as I can always walk the bike if I really have to.
Whilst I am fine with driving in the snow everyone else is an idiot and intend of sliding into my car, so using the bike is a damage limitation exercise.0 -
[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19777040#p19777040]Snakebite the 2nd[/url] wrote:I'd rather take the bike than the car if it is snowing, as I can always walk the bike if I really have to.
Whilst I am fine with driving in the snow everyone else is an idiot and intend of sliding into my car, so using the bike is a damage limitation exercise.
+1.
I've been totally fine in winters past, spiked tyres etc... But watching someone slide unexpectedly on ice, with their Subaru Forester gliding directly towards me brought home the fact that it almost doesn't matter how much grip I can find, I'm relying on everyone else finding grip too.
Icy country lanes, with school-run dumbs aplenty, mean that I just can't relax and enjoy the ride. I like the ride to be a de-stress experience, so I don't generally risk it during the colder months.Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.0 -
[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19777040#p19777040]Snakebite the 2nd[/url] wrote:I'd rather take the bike than the car if it is snowing, as I can always walk the bike if I really have to.
Whilst I am fine with driving in the snow everyone else is an idiot and intend of sliding into my car, so using the bike is a damage limitation exercise.
Yes - I do have the luxury of almost my entire route being along old railway line cycle path (5miles), so other vehicles aren't much of a problem. Of course it isn't gritted so ice is common - hence the spiked tyres!Cannondale CAADX Tiagra 2017
Revolution Courier Race Disc '14
My Strava0 -
In Leeds, either there is enough salt on the roads for ice not to be a concern or there's no salt on the roads and I can barely make it up the garden path let alone get on the bike even if I am using the studded tyres - so I am content not to get onto the 10% hill outside my house and start riding up that. In that instance, I just wait a couple of hours and arrive late but still sooner than everyone who drives or uses public transport.
It's been some years since I've needed the studded tyres!
Snow is more of an issue - knobblies for that but at times a fat bike would have been useful!Faster than a tent.......0 -
I'm with the majority here, there isn't a "too cold" point. It's all about preparation and equipment (and this doesn't have to be expensive)
During the winter I run a mountain bike with mudguards & spiked tyres (Scwalbes) I bought them a couple of years ago for about £30 for the set. While using these the normal tyres aren't being used so everything lasts twice as long. (that's my justification)
I have a lovely "icebreaker" Merino wool long sleeved top (about £25-£30.) I bought an Aldi or Lidl winter wind proof special for about £20 & use Ron Hill Bikesters (long legged cycle trousers) I don't bother with "waterproof" kit as they never are. This year I treated myself to some winter gloves and a Grip Grab balaclava but last year I simply pulled on ski gloves that were lying un-used.
I find my feet get cold so I simply pull on the shoe covers, this keeps out the majority of the rain and all of the cool chill.
The thing to get used to is that for the first 5-10 minutes you may feel a bit chilly but once you've built up some heat you'll stay fine. If you're warm setting off you will quickly overheat (IMO)
If you have the benefit of staying away from main roads you should be OK with icy conditions, watch a car failing to get traction, they don't move that fast, but like most times cycling awareness is everything.
The biggest thing for me (personally) is that unless you work part time it will be dark going to work and/or coming home so make sure you have your lights sorted. It still amazes me how many cycling ninjas appear to be "using the force"0 -
[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19777040#p19777040]Snakebite the 2nd[/url] wrote:I'd rather take the bike than the car if it is snowing, as I can always walk the bike if I really have to.
Whilst I am fine with driving in the snow everyone else is an idiot and intend of sliding into my car, so using the bike is a damage limitation exercise.
Yes - I do have the luxury of almost my entire route being along old railway line cycle path (5miles), so other vehicles aren't much of a problem. Of course it isn't gritted so ice is common - hence the spiked tyres!
FWIW I reckon the odds are improved by the lower number of cars on the road in poor weather - I enjoyed cycling home through the floods last thursday: the roads were very quiet, not surprising since about 11 out of the 19 miles were officially closed. Only negative - the couple of drivers who went past at speed in deep water.0 -
- but then again (to be extremely unscientific) I have been knocked off my bike twice, both on dry sunny days, but never in poor weather at all.0
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Railway lines (disused, of course) make perfect bike routes: no sharp corners, steel hills or traffic. Luxembourg turned many of the Nazi-built rail lines into bike paths and they are brilliant. Unfortunately the UK hasn't been quite so forward-thinking after BeechingROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0
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O.k more info, I have 2 bikes-a road bike and a Brompton. Normally commute 10 miles mostly on the road bike and on well used roads-a couple of r/bouts. Can only get 700x25 tyres on the road bike so spiked tyres are out. It's not the cold but the wet combined with the drop in temp and the odd oil patch that gets me worried.
Got my eye on outing the road bike and getting something more suitable for commuting-a nice single speed that takes chunkier tyres.0 -
Railway lines (disused, of course) make perfect bike routes: no sharp corners, steel hills or traffic. Luxembourg turned many of the Nazi-built rail lines into bike paths and they are brilliant. Unfortunately the UK hasn't been quite so forward-thinking after Beeching
Have done it in Cambridge.0 -
There is no too cold for me. Just wear more layers. Ice is more of a concern (I came off on some for the first time just before xmas) But I don't have another option of getting into work. I could get 2 buses and a train, but that would take 1.5 hours when biking takes 40 minutes.
I stick to 25mm or 28mm slicks - Gatorskins usually. Just take it easy. Just expect side roads and lanes to be icy and ride accordingly. Most main roads will be gritted and perfectly ridable - at least they are round here.
I generally wear more reflectives when it's icy.... no idea why, just think it might make someone think before taking a chance on icy roads.Cycling prints
Band of Climbers0 -
Still in t-shirt and shorts, so not yet too cold to commute, the 2 season gloves will possibly give way to my winters tomorrow as my pinkies were chilly today, if it gets frosty the soft shell jacket and possibly knee warmers will come out. Too cold for commute is about -8 for me at a guess as I've commuted down to -7 just fine (Bottom to top, 2 pairs of socks, knee warmers, shorts, Long sleeved base layer plus soft shell, buff for neck and cheeks and a headband for my wing nuts).Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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This will be my first winter commuting. Got a London Road bike with 700x37c I nothing special. Probably buy a tyre pressure gauge and run them at a lower pressure. Not sure that'll help but it'll make me feel like I'm being proactive.
Can you get studded tyres in less than 700x40c?. Are they really worth it? My route is 50m side road bike nearly 7 miles main road and bus route, another side road leading to tarmac cycle/footpath and a steel footbridge. Then one scary downhill right turn onto slippy stone flags as I come off the bridge. After that it's a side road that's a bus route for half of it. Only about 500m of route that's going to be icy as hell at the end. Reckon leave 20 minutes early or sooner and I'll be able to go very easy and walk the dodgy bits if needed.
No such thing as too cold for me. Well I doubt I'd cope with true polar bears conditions but I've been in -19C before wind chill is taken into account. I think my record is -35C with wind chill. That is when walking in.the.hills. I've got all the gear for that but not for cycling. Clothing I'll just put on walking kit if I'm cold. My only concerns are slipping and my extremities. My cycling shoes are just a light pair of trainers. I wear sealskinz over liner socks but my shoes behind tight if I wear too thick sock combination = colder feet. Hands are similar in that my only wind/waterproof gloves are thin without space to take thick liners. I have Reynauds with my hands so that's an issue. In winter on walks I use insulated mitts. They take -20C without liners with space for thick liners. I can't use brakes or gears with them.
Basically I am certain I'll get cold hands and feet but with 30-45 minute commute, possibly longer in bad weather, I'll manage. Just the slippage to worry about. Are there any good winter tyres without spikes or are spikes the only real option for avoiding slips in winter?0 -
This will be my first winter commuting. Got a London Road bike with 700x37c I nothing special. Probably buy a tyre pressure gauge and run them at a lower pressure. Not sure that'll help but it'll make me feel like I'm being proactive.
Can you get studded tyres in less than 700x40c?. Are they really worth it? My route is 50m side road bike nearly 7 miles main road and bus route, another side road leading to tarmac cycle/e any good winter tyres without spikes or are spikes the only real option for avoiding slips in winter?
Only studs will work on ice. Studs run perfectly well on clear roads, they are noisy and of course slow, the grip is something like a 23 on a wet road, but basically I put mine on at the start of winter - my Nokians have now done well over 1000 miles and are maybe getting a bit worn, but still seemed fine on proper black ice the other day.
The question is, how much ice do you expect? Definitely worth it if you can run to complete interchangeable wheels, I personally wouldn't be bothered changing the tyres to suit the conditions, but I reckon over the years I've met snow or ice at least somewhere on my commute about 1 ride in 3 from November to February. YMMV, especially if you don't live in Scotland.0 -
Another vote for spiked tyres. When it's 50/50 I only fit a front one, back sliding is easy to control. I only go full spiked when it's below freezingleft the forum March 20230
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I have the Nokian W106 all ready to go on the MTB, just need the weather to get colder....broke them in as prescribed and they run faster than the MTB tyres they replaced.0
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Seriously tempted to get some ice tyres for the mtb, but my ride is long and all down the main roads I don't know what use I'd get from them. I'll no doubt find out over the next few days if I should get some or not...Saracen Tenet 3 - 2015 - Dead - Replaced with a Hack Frame
Voodoo Bizango - 2014 - Dead - Hit by a car
Vitus Sentier VRS - 20170