If you were buying a new bike would you go for di2?

redvision
redvision Posts: 2,958
edited November 2015 in Road buying advice
I'm about to buy a new race bike but i am torn between whether to get the standard Ultegra, or spend a bit more and go for DI2.

I have never ridden Di2, but a couple of mates have suggested this is the way to go when getting a new bike these days.

What do you think? Is it worth the extra money?

Would really appreciate any advice.

Thanks
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Comments

  • Had the exact same discussion with a mate of mine.

    The new 6800 ultegra is great vfm, di2 is great which if easily affordable well worth it.

    Went with the 6800 as the EPO was taking some convincing I 'needed' another di2 set up.

    The changing gear under load has proven a worthy update on the odd leg implosion!
    Enigma Esprit Di2 - Go tI ! Summer !
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    Both work fine, but I like the Di2 best. Plug in the laptop and configure the switches how you want them. I have the big paddles on the left & right moving the rear derailleur. Little ones change the rings. Unconventional but nice to have the option to do it how you want.
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • Dura ace di2 yes, ultegra no.
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I went for new DA (mechanical) on new bike.
    Have loved the old DA over last three years on old bike, so as it has been upgraded I was very happy to try that for now.

    Have no real desire to go electric just yet, so mechanical DA is my choice over Di2 Ultegra at the moment.
  • mamil314
    mamil314 Posts: 1,103
    No, i'd get 785!
  • Absolutely. Just considering my third Ultegra Di2 bike at the moment (something with off-road/fire road capability). Di2 is great and, in a combined time of 6 or 7 years, I've not had a single issue.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • curto80
    curto80 Posts: 314
    Dura ace di2 yes, ultegra no.

    Er, that makes no sense.
    Rose Xlite Team 3100 Di2
    Kinesis Tripster ATR
    Orro Oxygen
  • Spares cost a bomb. North of 100 sheets for a rear deraileur
  • mfin
    mfin Posts: 6,729
    Di2 can be good for people who don't maintain their bikes much and can't be bothered to work out how to tweak gear indexing if needed. So, as a maintenance thing it can be a good choice. It doesn't offer much apart from that, it's just down to whether it's something you like the operation of or not. It all looks sh1t too, but that doesn't put those that buy it off enough not to.
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    Thanks for all the comments, a lot of interesting points of views and experiences.
    I am still very torn. On one hand i would much rather have a mechanical groupset which i know, in the event of any failures, could be repaired at the side of the road. But on the other the more i hear about DI2 the more impressive it sounds.

    God i wish i could make a decision!!! :evil:
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    Di2 can be good for people who don't maintain their bikes much and can't be bothered to work out how to tweak gear indexing if needed. So, as a maintenance thing it can be a good choice. It doesn't offer much apart from that, it's just down to whether it's something you like the operation of or not. It all looks sh1t too, but that doesn't put those that buy it off enough not to.

    I have bikes with both and am more than capable of setting them up to shift perfectly. Granted cables require more technical savvy than electronic to get to shift well but its the ongoing nature of the maintenance that is the benefit for a lot of people. I'm not sure the looks are really that bad given that a lot of the gubbins is now hidden away in the frame. Given that most people interact with elecronics on a daily basis (everyone on this board for instance) I think it inevitable that as prices come down the acceptance will change in favour of electronic. Some will stick to the mechanical sets as that is what they like (some take it further and still ride penny farthings) but the reliability and low maintenance will win out in the end as the next batch of less mechanically minded cyclists come into the sport. Its not just cycling going through the change, the manufacture of everything has changed and likewise what people know and can do will have to change to accommodate. Most people under 25 these days can work wonders with electronic devices but can they change a tap washer? can they bollox
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • I have an SL5 with DA Di2 and an SL4 with mechanical DA 9000.

    When I ride the 9000, I miss the electric shifting big time, especially front shifting.

    With Di2 shifting is so easy, so press and forget, that I reckon I shift about 20% more, which means I am in the right gear that bit more often.

    I also like having my gear position displayed on my Garmin.

    BUT, I have had a couple of weird breakdowns with Di2, something you just don't get with mechanical.
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    Have/had 7970, 6770, 6870, and 9070. ALeays go for Di2 on a TT bike. Had 9070 on my Storck and missed my 6800. Gone for 9000 on the English. No real point of Di2 on a road bike.
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    I have to say, I'm a little intrigued by people who say that with mechanical you have a greater chance of being able to fix it by the roadside - do you all carry spare gear cables and cutters with you on your rides?

    If you don't I struggle to understand how the average gear issue is any more fixable by the roadside with mechanical than electronic - can someone shed any light?

    I'd say with both it's likely that in the event of an issue you'll be stuck riding with a greatly reduced gear range (eg only able to shift at the front/rear) perhaps even single speed, but I can't see a massive difference in bodge-ability?

    For me if I was spending the sort of money that Ultegra di2 was an option, then I'd go for it. I've never spent that sort of money on a bike as yet though!
  • Got to agree with Grill. Everyone seems to aspire to Di2 on their road bikes. I've got it on my De Rosa, and although i love the bike, it has nothing to do with the fact it's Di2 and it certainly isn't something that would make me choose to ride it ahead of my other bikes. I'd happily change it to Sram Red as i find it looks nicer, is lighter and performs faultlessly. If i could be bothered i'd take the Di2 off and put it on the TT bike.
    argon 18 e116 2013 Vision Metron 80
    Bianchi Oltre XR Sram Red E-tap, Fulcrum racing speed xlr
    De Rosa SK pininfarina disc
    S Works Tarmac e-tap 2017
    Rose pro sl disc
  • The whole electronic vs mechanical debate has been done to death over the years. Simple fact is that the majority of people who have tried electronic for any decent length of time, myself included, wouldn't go back. Interesting article recently on this here http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/latest-news/are-electronic-groupsets-necessary-168675 . About 90% of the world tour pro peloton ride electronic, although admittedly they don't have to pay for their kit which does make a difference! Luke Rowe from Sky: “I’ve ridden electronic for four or five years, and it’s not until you hop on a bike with mechanical shifting and change gear a few times that you realise how much poorer it is. It takes a while for you to remember just how bad it was. It’s a no-brainer — I never want to go back.”

    The one significant downside of Shimano Di for me is that it is easy to hit the wrong button if you have thick winter gloves on. That would make me think twice about it for my next winter bike, but for the summer bike I agree with Mr Rowe - its a no brainer :-)
  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    I have di2 and wouldn't bother in future.
    Added expense, added weight, added complexity (in terms of charging etc although not much), minimal benefit.
    I'd either save the mondy and get mechanical ultegra, or if you want, why not blow the same budget and get mechanical DA.
  • mamba80
    mamba80 Posts: 5,032
    The whole electronic vs mechanical debate has been done to death over the years. Simple fact is that the majority of people who have tried electronic for any decent length of time, myself included, wouldn't go back. Interesting article recently on this here http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/latest-news/are-electronic-groupsets-necessary-168675 . About 90% of the world tour pro peloton ride electronic, although admittedly they don't have to pay for their kit which does make a difference! Luke Rowe from Sky: “I’ve ridden electronic for four or five years, and it’s not until you hop on a bike with mechanical shifting and change gear a few times that you realise how much poorer it is. It takes a while for you to remember just how bad it was. It’s a no-brainer — I never want to go back.”

    Well, i ve used Di2 both DA and Ultegra and aside from the new gimmick factor, dont see the draw myself.... as for road side fixes, maybe not, but when i get home, i d have it fixed side a an hour or two, Di2 might well need a LBS visit but its also dead reliable too, so probably not a factor for the vast majority.

    BUT the OP asked about di2 for his next race bike and assuming he is talking about amateur road racing where he is paying for his own bits, following the enivitable crashes, then it has to be mechanical, just because of the cheapness or replacement parts compared to Di2, if its for a TT bike, then Di2 all the way.

    Luke Rowe is paid to say that the kit he uses is the best there is, regardless of his personal thoughts.
  • I have di2 and wouldn't bother in future.
    Added expense, added weight, added complexity (in terms of charging etc although not much), minimal benefit.
    I'd either save the mondy and get mechanical ultegra, or if you want, why not blow the same budget and get mechanical DA.

    Added expense definitely, but not sure about added weight. The later Ultegra and DA Di groupsets with the internal batteries are supposed to be marginally lighter that the mechanical equivalent. Certainly not enough difference either way to be noticeable.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Surely got to be worth considering for a winter bike. Don't really see the gain for shiny summer bikes though.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    mamba80 wrote:
    BUT the OP asked about di2 for his next race bike and assuming he is talking about amateur road racing where he is paying for his own bits, following the enivitable crashes, then it has to be mechanical, just because of the cheapness or replacement parts compared to Di2, if its for a TT bike, then Di2 all the way.

    You know i hadn't even thought of this. I plan on doing a full season of racing in 2016, so the price difference of replacement parts is an excellent point.

    Think this has clinched it in my mind, i will be sticking with mechanical.

    Thanks again for all the advice and info.
  • Surely got to be worth considering for a winter bike. Don't really see the gain for shiny summer bikes though.

    How nice would it be when you can't feel your frozen fingers just lightly tapping the buttons for a front up shift. Can you imagine how gutted you'd be though scraping your extortionate rear mech along the ground on the inevitable ice.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Surely got to be worth considering for a winter bike. Don't really see the gain for shiny summer bikes though.

    How nice would it be when you can't feel your frozen fingers just lightly tapping the buttons for a front up shift. Can you imagine how gutted you'd be though scraping your extortionate rear mech along the ground on the inevitable ice.

    Good point. Di2 is pointless for winter and summer! :lol:

    Actually, I suppose the point is that electronic shifting will become useful when it is more affordable and perhaps is designed to be a bit more practical in use (assuming that button control is, as you say, an issue in big gloves). For summer bikes, it seems completely pointless unless, as already mentioned, the owner can't maintain a cable system.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    Giving it more thought - maybe I've just become old school. Bike should be mechanical and not stop working when a battery runs flat.
  • slowmart
    slowmart Posts: 4,516
    it's trouble free and works effectively and I'm heading for my third winter with no maintenance required so far.

    What's not to like?

    The battery is the only weakness in the offering but it is pretty idiot proof to keep charged.
    “Give a man a fish and feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Teach a man to cycle and he will realize fishing is stupid and boring”

    Desmond Tutu
  • mamba80 wrote:
    BUT the OP asked about di2 for his next race bike and assuming he is talking about amateur road racing where he is paying for his own bits, following the enivitable crashes, then it has to be mechanical, just because of the cheapness or replacement parts compared to Di2, if its for a TT bike, then Di2 all the way.

    You know i hadn't even thought of this. I plan on doing a full season of racing in 2016, so the price difference of replacement parts is an excellent point.

    Think this has clinched it in my mind, i will be sticking with mechanical.

    Thanks again for all the advice and info.

    Try being a Campy fan and justify EPS parts. It's bad enough with mechanical ........ don't think I can hold out much longer.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    So, as a maintenance thing it can be a good choice. It doesn't offer much apart from that

    Really? You have used it then?
  • I find many of the arguments against Di2 funny:
    1. Cost of replacement parts? Too funny. If you're racing, you want to give yourself every competitive advantage or are you all riding aluminium bikes on Tiagra and RS10 wheels? I don't think so.
    2. Weight? Di2 is now lighter than mechanical
    3. Roadside repairs? What roadside repairs?
    4. Charging batteries? Once every 1000 miles for 30 mins. Assuming you have a mobile phone or lights, I'm sure that this isn't beyond you.
    5. Capability?ni find it funny on one hand that people say that Di2 is for people that can't set up mechanical and, on the other hand, is too complex. Truth is, I've adjusted up loads of people's mechanical systems for them whilst never having touched my own Di2. Even first set-up, you can adjust Di2 on the bike whilst riding.

    If you're the kinda guy who has his shifters on the downtube, then fine, they'll match your wool jersey and pedal clips. But the only good reason not to buy Di2 is because you can't afford it. For the rest it's better, lighter and simpler.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,032
    If it was cost neutral I might go for it just to give it a go - I have tried it briefly and wasn't really taken and I've seen a few people have problems with it which is enough for me not to be tempted to spend the extra over mechanical. For me it does look a bit like a solution looking for a problem but obviously it has its adherents.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]