Cyclocross as a winter bike
Comments
-
Carbonator, which Cyclocross bike did you have and which winter road bike did you get?
I only ask as I went the other way - I started with a fuji sportif 1.1 for my winter riding and it wasn't light or aggressive enough in it's geometry, changed the frameset for a Crosslight pro6 and was/am very happy.0 -
I ride my London Rd on both tarmac and gravelly stuff. Does both superby imeAnd the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0
-
Carbonator, which Cyclocross bike did you have and which winter road bike did you get?
I only ask as I went the other way - I started with a fuji sportif 1.1 for my winter riding and it wasn't light or aggressive enough in it's geometry, changed the frameset for a Crosslight pro6 and was/am very happy.
The BMC GF02 is cyclocross, and I then got an Eddy Merckx EMX-1 as winter road.
Cyclocross and road are often too similar to differentiate (Only real difference is tyre clearance as far as I can work out) so I was only speaking generally and highlighting my experience.
Winter road needs to be light and sporty IME, but if you get lighter, sportier cyclocross bike then (apart from needing to continually swap tyres/wheels if you do actually go off road) then that would work better than a heavier upright one.0 -
So to be fair then, you obviously have somewhat different expectations for a winter road bike from what others might have - I've got a good friend who was riding an EMX-1 as his number one bike up until very recently (when Merckx warranty swapped it for an EMX-5 frame as there was some damage on the frame).
I doubt I'd get my Schwalbe Winter spiked 700x35 tyres on an EMX, and you're not going to get proper mudguards on either!
Still, to each their own, if that's what you want to ride in winter good on you!0 -
To go back to the OP post, they wanted to do 40 - 80 mile fast group ride 17 - 19 MPH , all I am saying is for this riding there are better bikes .
regards]
ILG0 -
I'll try and give some real world stats as an indication to the question about using a Cyclocross bike on club rides.
My winter bike is a Genesis CDF, weighs 12.5kgs, 2.1kg wheels that are shod with knobbly 34c tyres. I ride a combination of on-road and off-road hence the tyres. I've been using the winter bike since the first week of September.
I use it for club rides. Sundays ride was 82 miles with 4100 feet of climbing, we averaged 17 mph. This was a steady pace and reasonably easy. I also do shorter solo rides during the week, 22 miles with 1200 feet of ascent averaged at over 18 mph. (Strava links available if you want a better look at the profile of the ride to see if it is similar to yours)
I personally find it about managing the ride. I know I won't keep up with the mountain goats on the large climbs so I tend to take those easy and let the guys go ahead. I won't be too far behind, but if I try and keep up on each climb I know I will be struggling later in the ride. During the faster rolling parts of the ride, the bike doesn't have a massive bearing and I can keep up as I would on my better weather bike. I do my fair share of work on the front, but if I was starting to struggle I'd hide in the pack.
I have to admit to being a big fan of my CDF, I know its heavy, only got Sora, rubbish brakes etc, but there's something about having big chunky tyres and being able to ride on road and off road. I know I work a lot harder on the CDF but I get off the bike after every ride with a huge smile.
Everyone has different requirements, for me I would say if you can ride with the fast group on your summer bike you'll still be able to ride with them on a cross bike, you may have to work harder at certain times, but thats no real hardship. The positives far out weigh the negatives.
If I could afford it would I buy a better Cross / Gravel / All Round bike. I would want the weight to be sub 10kgs and hydraulic brakes, but my CDF cost me about £700 (ish) and it still makes me stupidly happy.0 -
I hope SMS of these replies are wrong, I've got a Rose DX 2000 on order and hopefully I can do smecgravel riding and club rides.
I've got that bike. It's my most used bike. I'm racing at the weekend on it and using it with road tyres for rides of anything up to 60 miles. It's heavier than my road bike, but that's the point of a winter bike! This time of year it's great to stick about 60 psi in 33 mm tyres and do a mix of road and off road in a loop. Linking lanes, bridalways dirt, gravel etc is a great workout. The only negative is having to keep cleaning it!0 -
I hope SMS of these replies are wrong, I've got a Rose DX 2000 on order and hopefully I can do smecgravel riding and club rides.
I've got that bike. It's my most used bike. I'm racing at the weekend on it and using it with road tyres for rides of anything up to 60 miles. It's heavier than my road bike, but that's the point of a winter bike! This time of year it's great to stick about 60 psi in 33 mm tyres and do a mix of road and off road in a loop. Linking lanes, bridalways dirt, gravel etc is a great workout. The only negative is having to keep cleaning it!
Nice report, very reassuring; Thanks. I'm looking forward to doing the same sort of thing.0 -
A CX bike will be fine for club runs and general winter mileage.
There's a few of us the ride them in the clubs faster group doing upwards of 150 miles a week with no issues. You may find the hills require more effort than those still riding their carbon bling machines, but I find the pace drops along with the temperature anyway.
SKS mudguards fit happily on my CX race bike with no rattling, rubbing or general annoyances, and that's running conti gp4000s 28mm.0 -
Back in the days(about 5 years ago) before I really knew anything about bikes, and partly because if I was spending £800 on a bike it should do more than just be able to ride on the road, I purchased a Genesis Vapour Cyclecross bike. Immediately though, I put slicks on it (28mm) and it became at the time my (only)road bike. I used it in the Etape Caledonia and other sportives that year (I had purchased new wheels by then) and was quite happy on it. It was then used a a winter bike/turbo bike for the next wee while. I did change the brakes from cantilever to v brakes and only go a winter bike this year because I couldnt get the brakes to stop screechiing. Not sure I really like my winter bike as much (Kinesis Ts) and pretty sure the new bike is heavier.
for me I would say go for it. Also, my cyclecross bike has recently had it's original tyres put back on and I have started cyclecross racing. If you have the bike, then this is a good fun option in the winter, you definitely cant do that on a winter road bike.0 -
Ok, just got back from a 90k club ride (@30kph) on my new Rose cyclocross bike. I tried to get some 28 Conti 4 seasons on last night but was a beaten man after 30 minutes of sweating.
So ended up doing it on 33mm Sammy Slicks (not at all slick) pumped up to about 50psi. I have to say, it wasn't as bad as I thought. A bit harder everywhere but on a slower run (not really winter pace for me today) I think I'd be fine.
If you do it on road tyres i honestly can't see why it would be harder than on a road bike.0 -
Ok, just got back from a 90k club ride (@30kph) on my new Rose cyclocross bike. I tried to get some 28 Conti 4 seasons on last night but was a beaten man after 30 minutes of sweating.
So ended up doing it on 33mm Sammy Slicks (not at all slick) pumped up to about 50psi. I have to say, it wasn't as bad as I thought. A bit harder everywhere but on a slower run (not really winter pace for me today) I think I'd be fine.
If you do it on road tyres i honestly can't see why it would be harder than on a road bike.
I've got to eat humble pie here. I finally go the 28mm Conti 4 seasons on and rode my usual club run. For some reason it was like riding with the brakes on. I was destroyed by the end of 85k which was only run off at 27kph (I ended up with the slow grou) whereas, as i said abiove, I'd had no real trouble with the cyclocross tyres at 50psi and managed over 30kph.
I can only assume that the Contis with the cyclocross rimes (very wide) are a bad combination. I'll try the contis on my normal road wheels.0 -
There is a more basic point here, which is does it really matter to you if your average speed is 29kph or 30kph..?
I wasn't going to quote speeds because they don't mean anything. The difference was that with one set of tyres I could ride with my usual group, with the others i couldn't. So, yes, for me it makes a difference
0 -
So 33mm Sammy Slicks good ? 28mm Conti 4 Seasons bad ?
Are you sure you weren't coming down with something ? Seems odd that tyres would make a big difference like that ? They're both slick aren't they ?0 -
Well yes the actual numbers are not relevant but the point remains the same. If you never ride with a club for example it doesnt really make any difference....
Yes but, for example, I do ride with a club. What's your point?0 -
So 33mm Sammy Slicks good ? 28mm Conti 4 Seasons bad ?
Are you sure you weren't coming down with something ? Seems odd that tyres would make a big difference like that ? They're both slick aren't they ?
If I read my own post I'd think it was nonsense :roll: but I'm just saying what i experienced. I haven't had chance to replicate it yet and, no, I wasn't coming down with anything. I actually felt fine, just like I was having to work really hard on the bike.
They're not both slicks either (which makes it even more improbable I know), the Sammy Slicks have quite a pronounced diamond tread.0 -
I went out for 42 miles yesterday on my single speed crosser (42t X 16t), shod with 35mm Sammy Slicks. Wasn't significantly slower than when on my geared 'crosser (on the road) or my winter road bike. Also took in a fair number of short but sharp climbs along the route. Thoroughly enjoyable, but my back is now fecked after straining up some of the hills
. The Sammy Slicks seem good enough to me, and not a lot slower than than the 30mm Marathon Racers that were on before (or the 25mm Michelin Pro4 Endurance on my winter bike).
I'm personally looking to convert my Pro6 disc 'crosser into my winter bike (basically putting mudguards on it), selling my Tifosi, and getting a Pickenflick as my "All road" ride....I just seem to prefer the comfort of bigger tyres these days.Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...0 -
I've had a set of Sammy Slicks on my shelf for near on a year - it might be time for me to mount them :-)0
-
I've had a set of Sammy Slicks on my shelf for near on a year - it might be time for me to mount them :-)
They're a great set of (properly) all round tyres. They're good off road unless it's really muddy and cope well with normal road riding. I've heard the puncture protection is not so great, especially the side walls, but they're pretty thick on the centre so i would have thought they were OK. Cyclocross tyres don't tend to have an anti puncture layer AFAIK.0 -
So 33mm Sammy Slicks good ? 28mm Conti 4 Seasons bad ?
Are you sure you weren't coming down with something ? Seems odd that tyres would make a big difference like that ? They're both slick aren't they ?
If I read my own post I'd think it was nonsense :roll: but I'm just saying what i experienced. I haven't had chance to replicate it yet and, no, I wasn't coming down with anything. I actually felt fine, just like I was having to work really hard on the bike.
They're not both slicks either (which makes it even more improbable I know), the Sammy Slicks have quite a pronounced diamond tread.
It does sound weird. I guess a sample of 1 ride isn't exactly scientific though. You haven't had a brake rub or something either ? I know I have rides sometimes where I'm dying on my arse - same kit as previous weeks and the next week I'll bounce back. Hope the next ride is easier for you !0 -
So 33mm Sammy Slicks good ? 28mm Conti 4 Seasons bad ?
Are you sure you weren't coming down with something ? Seems odd that tyres would make a big difference like that ? They're both slick aren't they ?
If I read my own post I'd think it was nonsense :roll: but I'm just saying what i experienced. I haven't had chance to replicate it yet and, no, I wasn't coming down with anything. I actually felt fine, just like I was having to work really hard on the bike.
They're not both slicks either (which makes it even more improbable I know), the Sammy Slicks have quite a pronounced diamond tread.
It does sound weird. I guess a sample of 1 ride isn't exactly scientific though. You haven't had a brake rub or something either ? I know I have rides sometimes where I'm dying on my ars* - same kit as previous weeks and the next week I'll bounce back. Hope the next ride is easier for you !
Agrred. I've gone back to the Sammy Slicks for now but I'll try the Contis again. Usually when I'm tired (as apposed to ill) my pulse is lower even though it feels hard. yesterday my HR was high alot of the way, just like I was riding up hill all the time. First thing I did was check to see if the brakes were rubbing!0 -
Well yes the actual numbers are not relevant but the point remains the same. If you never ride with a club for example it doesnt really make any difference....
Yes but, for example, I do ride with a club. What's your point?
well that escalated quickly...We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver0 -
Well yes the actual numbers are not relevant but the point remains the same. If you never ride with a club for example it doesnt really make any difference....
Yes but, for example, I do ride with a club. What's your point?
well that escalated quickly...
Ha! No, I took your point and it's true the cyclocross feels quite nice ven when you're not going so fast, but this is 'buying advice' and one of the main things people are looking for is speed (or so it seems).0 -
OK, next thing for you to check is that the seatpost hasn't slid down (fairly common with new bikes).
That can happen fairly gradually (so you wouldn't notice it) and will have a surprisingly big effect.0 -
OK, next thing for you to check is that the seatpost hasn't slid down (fairly common with new bikes).
That can happen fairly gradually (so you wouldn't notice it) and will have a surprisingly big effect.
You've got me thinking now. Pretty sure it's not the seat post but I was wearing my winter shoes for the first time. Need a more scientific test clearly!0 -
Sure it wasnt just becasue it was particularly cold and miserable this weekend? I was riding the same bike as always and felt abysmal...
It was definitely the first day of winter here. On the other hand I've been riding nearly 40 years and know my body fairly well. I've ridden with the 'fast' group (all relative I know) for seven years but had to drop back to the second group who i know are slower than me, yet i was hanging on. Anyway, i've opened a can of worms so i need more information.
Be interesting to know if anyone has put road tyres on Mavic Crosroads. Maybe they're just not compatible?0 -
Finally found some info on the Mavic site. The recommended minimum tyre size is 35mm (come fitted with 33mm.....) and the Contis are 28mm (they were a bit of a bugger to get on). Could be the problem?0
