What price hand built, deep section carbon tubular wheels...

mulletmaster

Thanks for the quick reply!
I must confess to never as much as truing a wheel but was trying to come up with ways a 32h hub could be laced in to a 24h rim. This will only be for road racing like you say in the dry so was hoping for tubs and light as possible.
I was thinking of 8 spoked radially on the DS and 16 spokes on the NDS laced 2X.
Either that or google tells me a "crowsfoot" pattern can be done? Total nonsense?

ugo.santalucia

mulletmaster wrote:

Thanks for the quick reply!
I must confess to never as much as truing a wheel but was trying to come up with ways a 32h hub could be laced in to a 24h rim. This will only be for road racing like you say in the dry so was hoping for tubs and light as possible.
I was thinking of 8 spoked radially on the DS and 16 spokes on the NDS laced 2X.
Either that or google tells me a "crowsfoot" pattern can be done? Total nonsense?

You probably mean the opposite... 16 crossed on the DS and 8 radial on the NDS... yes, it is possible, it would probably invalidate the warranty on the Power tap... the drillings are not spaced ideally to do that, meaning your radial spokes will sit at a tiny angle (might be only a couple of degrees). Is this going to be a problem? Live and learn, I have no idea... if it's for racing only I suspect you can risk it... worst for worst you'll break a spoke and lose the race

mulletmaster

Thanks for that! To be honest the warranty isn't worth much anyway, the rubbish rim it was shipped with (powertap proprietary) won't stay in true for more than 20miles despite 4 attempts at being trued by my LBS.
Powertap want me to send the bike off to them to identify to problem, but that means postage costs, being without the wheel for weeks and if they don't find the cause for it going out of true being hit with an inspection fee!
The LBS say it's just a bad build and needs rebuilt so thinking about chucking the rim in the bin and doing the above!

ugo.santalucia

mulletmaster wrote:

Thanks for that! To be honest the warranty isn't worth much anyway, the rubbish rim it was shipped with (powertap proprietary) won't stay in true for more than 20miles despite 4 attempts at being trued by my LBS.
Powertap want me to send the bike off to them to identify to problem, but that means postage costs, being without the wheel for weeks and if they don't find the cause for it going out of true being hit with an inspection fee!
The LBS say it's just a bad build and needs rebuilt so thinking about chucking the rim in the bin and doing the above!

Well, I think your LBS is just hasty... if it is a bad build, it can be corrected, unless they got the spoke size completely wrong. IME a good majority of LBS can't true a wheel and even some well respected and celebrated LBS in the Capital can't true a wheel... some of these even do build wheels, but they are crap. There is a minority of shops who can do a good job... I think that's where you have to go.

mulletmaster

That's where problem is, my LBS is also my own cycle club. The owner is 70, been in the business 50 years properly old school chap.
He has trued it for times, it has cost me £30 for essentially nothing, do I risk sending the wheel off to paligap for them to say, it just needs trued and be a further £50 in the hole for essentially nothing, do I just pay the LBS £50 to rebuild the existing wheel or do I just go the whole hog and buy a carbon rim and built it in to that to race on as I have acquired a cheap wired PT on an open pro I plan to train on (glutten for punishment I know)

ugo.santalucia

mulletmaster wrote:

That's where problem is, my LBS is also my own cycle club. The owner is 70, been in the business 50 years properly old school chap.
He has trued it for times, it has cost me £30 for essentially nothing, do I risk sending the wheel off to paligap for them to say, it just needs trued and be a further £50 in the hole for essentially nothing, do I just pay the LBS £50 to rebuild the existing wheel or do I just go the whole hog and buy a carbon rim and built it in to that to race on as I have acquired a cheap wired PT on an open pro I plan to train on (glutten for punishment I know)

I don't know... it seems obvious he is not checking the tensions...what I do know is that these PX rims with integrated nipples are NOT easy to build... so if your man cannot get a 32 H wheel right, he will NOT be able to do a decent job out of these. I have built 4-5 sets of these and the thing is you can't make a mistake. If you do make a mistake, you have to cut the spoke as there is no practical way to get the nipple out (there is but the risk of having it stuck inside the rim is greater than the cost of a spoke). It also requires some home made tools and a bit of practice at working without seeing what you are doing.
SO, if you want to build you PT into one of these, you need to pick a builder who has worked with rims internally drilled before or you need a rim with external nipples

backo

I am considering a build similar to the OP ...to the OP, what spokes did you use?

I am swaying towards the gigantex 38mm carbon tubular rim but struggling to find anywhere that sells these...does anyone know where I can buy gigantex rims?

many thanks

ugo.santalucia

backo wrote:

I am considering a build similar to the OP ...to the OP, what spokes did you use?

I am swaying towards the gigantex 38mm carbon tubular rim but struggling to find anywhere that sells these...does anyone know where I can buy gigantex rims?

many thanks

Bike Hub Store in USA... mind the import fees though

backo

Thanks Ugo.......the £99.99 50mm rims on planet x are looking more appealing on the wallet.

mechanism

Wheelsmith list 38mm or 50mm for Gigantex rims on their website. Do they not have them?

drlodge

backo wrote:

I am considering a build similar to the OP ...to the OP, what spokes did you use?

These are built using DT Comp on the rear and DT Revs on the front - same as Sapim Race/Laser. I saw no advantage using CX-Ray spokes and it would cost quite a bit more. This way it keeps the cost very reasonable.

andyrr

Just wanted to add my 2p worth here.
You mention that these are your road racing wheels and are essentially wheels for nice days ? But does that mean that if the weather is changeable but dry at the race start you might use them ? In my experience of using carbon-rimmed wheels, without a proper braking surface in the wet they can be lethal : I've experienced this and it was a case of pull lever and ..wait, wait, wait and then a gradual slowing : squeaky bum time ! Also for UK club road racing I'd want a pair of wheels that are reasonably sturdy as in a bunch or chewing the bars riding in the gutter sometimes you hit. I'd want a pair of wheels that could take a decent hit without crumpling. I used to race on a pair of HED Superlite 50mm wheels that whilst braking was useless in the wet they had the positive of being pretty sturdy : I crashed through a terrible section of road and afterwards during the race was told that the rear was out of true but I'd not really noticed it myself. I got to the end without major issue and then saw that a couple of sections of the rim were actually splintering - whether that was testimony to the wheel components being strong or the build (think I sourced these from P-X wheels and were built by Mark Lovatt)

backo

Thanks Mechanism...spotted those 38mm rims at wheelsmith

Thanks Drlodge for the spoke update.

Playing around with a view ideas but then spotted some fast forward 38mm F4R on wiggle reduced to £680 from £975 which see ok come with DT aerolite spokes but with their own hubs.

not sure what their own hubs are like but read good things about the rims.

Will keep looking but essentially these wheels will now be for nexrt season so hopeully I can be patient a spot the odd bagain.

Steblez

Hi, I'm loving the Planet X wheels, so much so I'm going to buy a set to use on both my Dolan road bike and TT bike.
But first I have two ques?
1. What will the Aero differences be between the 52mm and 60mm rims if any.
2. Tubs or clinchers?

Cheers

drlodge

andyrr wrote:

Just wanted to add my 2p worth here.
You mention that these are your road racing wheels and are essentially wheels for nice days ? But does that mean that if the weather is changeable but dry at the race start you might use them ? In my experience of using carbon-rimmed wheels, without a proper braking surface in the wet they can be lethal : I've experienced this and it was a case of pull lever and ..wait, wait, wait and then a gradual slowing : squeaky bum time ! Also for UK club road racing I'd want a pair of wheels that are reasonably sturdy as in a bunch or chewing the bars riding in the gutter sometimes you hit. I'd want a pair of wheels that could take a decent hit without crumpling. I used to race on a pair of HED Superlite 50mm wheels that whilst braking was useless in the wet they had the positive of being pretty sturdy : I crashed through a terrible section of road and afterwards during the race was told that the rear was out of true but I'd not really noticed it myself. I got to the end without major issue and then saw that a couple of sections of the rim were actually splintering - whether that was testimony to the wheel components being strong or the build (think I sourced these from P-X wheels and were built by Mark Lovatt)

Don't think I mentioned road racing, I'm not into racing at all. These are wheels for "best", for nice dry days and for the odd TT. I may put them on for Sunday - a nice long club ride - and next week as I'm off and hope to get some miles in and the weather is looking good.

drlodge

Steblez wrote:

Hi, I'm loving the Planet X wheels, so much so I'm going to buy a set to use on both my Dolan road bike and TT bike.
But first I have two ques?
1. What will the Aero differences be between the 52mm and 60mm rims if any.
2. Tubs or clinchers?

Cheers

60mm rims for me are getting into the realms of being a PITA in side winds, I think 50mm is a nice depth to get some aero benefits and stiffness without too much of an issue in side winds. 38mm rims might be a better "sweet spot", I don't really know.

I personally don't see the point of carbon clinchers. You want carbon for lightness, carbon clinchers add weight due to metal reinforcement in the sidewalls. If like me you want a really nice set of wheels and already have a set of clinchers, then go tubs.

Steblez

Cheers[/quote]

60mm rims for me are getting into the realms of being a PITA in side winds, I think 50mm is a nice depth to get some aero benefits and stiffness without too much of an issue in side winds. 38mm rims might be a better "sweet spot", I don't really know.

I personally don't see the point of carbon clinchers. You want carbon for lightness, carbon clinchers add weight due to metal reinforcement in the sidewalls. If like me you want a really nice set of wheels and already have a set of clinchers, then go tubs.[/quote]

I've looked at the threads earlier and am still alittle confused with regards to brake pads. I will eventually use the wheels on two different bikes, but one will primarily use clinchers. So hence the issue with brakes... Saying that I suppose changing over the pads isn't too much of a hassle?

jamiemilbourn

Well I have just taken the plunge....

Planet-x 50mm carbon tub rims (gigantex I believe...)
Chris king R45 hubs 16/24 hole
Conti GP4000 tubs

HOPEFULLY built by a rather informative wheel builder/poster on here in the next week.

Will report back what they are like!

Currently on Dura ace 9000 hubs, h plus son archetypes 24/28 clinchers.

Can't wait!

backo

Exciting times Jamie..hope they ride like a dream.

post a pic of them when you are in receipt

matt-h

Cool.
I'm looking forward to another opinion on these.

Matt

meesterbond

jamiemilbourn wrote:

Well I have just taken the plunge....

Planet-x 50mm carbon tub rims (gigantex I believe...)
Chris king R45 hubs 16/24 hole
Conti GP4000 tubs

HOPEFULLY built by a rather informative wheel builder/poster on here in the next week.

Will report back what they are like!

Currently on Dura ace 9000 hubs, h plus son archetypes 24/28 clinchers.

Can't wait!

If you're spending the money for CK hubs then you deserve decent tyres... Conti clinchers are fine, but have a look at Veloflex or Vittoria for tubs. You'll thank me when you come to have to fit one!

ugo.santalucia

meesterbond wrote:

jamiemilbourn wrote:

Well I have just taken the plunge....

Planet-x 50mm carbon tub rims (gigantex I believe...)
Chris king R45 hubs 16/24 hole
Conti GP4000 tubs

HOPEFULLY built by a rather informative wheel builder/poster on here in the next week.

Will report back what they are like!

Currently on Dura ace 9000 hubs, h plus son archetypes 24/28 clinchers.

Can't wait!

If you're spending the money for CK hubs then you deserve decent tyres... Conti clinchers are fine, but have a look at Veloflex or Vittoria for tubs. You'll thank me when you come to have to fit one!

Agree, the Conti are a bit tight, but he has a personal mechanic who fits the tyres for him...

jamiemilbourn

I do indeed.... I love my conti clinchers so presumed they would be as great in tubs...

Having just dropped them off at said "mechanics" :-) ill keep them and when they need changing ill get the others (to make my life easier)!

Can't wait to get them back...

jamiemilbourn

Here they are... Will get them on the new bike but not till after a holiday... (And I don't have new bike yet...)

They look amazing and feel very light, ugo did you weigh them by chance?

ugo.santalucia

jamiemilbourn wrote:

Here they are... Will get them on the new bike but not till after a holiday... (And I don't have new bike yet...)

They look amazing and feel very light, ugo did you weigh them by chance?

Forgot... based on similar sets, they should be a tad over 1.4 Kg

jamiemilbourn

Cheers - apologies for the atrocious picture - ill do some better ones on the new bike...

ugo.santalucia

jamiemilbourn wrote:

Cheers - apologies for the atrocious picture - ill do some better ones on the new bike...

Crap indeed... a better one here

http://paolocoppo.drupalgardens.com/med ... ail/16/531