Zipp hubs: explosions and recalls

FransJacques

thanks, the photos are no longer there.

I just want it 2x both sides at least.

Does a stock Zipp wheel use alu or brass nips?

ugo.santalucia

FransJacques wrote:

thanks, the photos are no longer there.

I just want it 2x both sides at least.

Does a stock Zipp wheel use alu or brass nips?

The old site is no longer active... I need to redo the links... :roll:

Alloy nipples and Sapim oval washers inside the rim

Fastbassett21

So I have eventually got my rear 303 rim changed/built for me over onto a fastforward(novatech) hub built two cross with bladed spokes the only problem I now have is the wheel is very flexy even more so than before . I'm 70 kg so no heavyweight but have had to open out the brakes quite noticeably .
Have just checked the tension on a park tension gauge and they are 16 to 21 none drive side and 24to 27 drive side .
Im not sure if the wheel has enough spoke tension or how accurate the park gauge is on a bladed spoke?

ugo.santalucia

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19671197#p19671197]Fastbassett21[/url] wrote:

So I have eventually got my rear 303 rim changed/built for me over onto a fastforward(novatech) hub built two cross with bladed spokes the only problem I now have is the wheel is very flexy even more so than before . I'm 70 kg so no heavyweight but have had to open out the brakes quite noticeably .
Have just checked the tension on a park tension gauge and they are 16 to 21 none drive side and 24to 27 drive side .
Im not sure if the wheel has enough spoke tension or how accurate the park gauge is on a bladed spoke?

Which bladed spokes? If they are Sapim CX Ray, that tension is way too high. As you know the meter reading without the calibration chart for the specific spoke is meaningless

Tension and stiffness have a very loose relationship, meaning once you have enough tension to avoid the wheel going slack at each revolution, any extra adds strength to the wheel but not lateral stiffness

Fastbassett21

I Was not using the meter correctly as did not have any instruction just the gauge, but have found them on the net and readings are actually 2 to 8 none drive side and 12 to 17 drive side and the spokes were cx Ray many thanks for the reply

ugo.santalucia

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19671385#p19671385]Fastbassett21[/url] wrote:

I Was not using the meter correctly as did not have any instruction just the gauge, but have found them on the net and readings are actually 2 to 8 none drive side and 12 to 17 drive side and the spokes were cx Ray many thanks for the reply

You should get hold of a calibration chart.

The numbers are quite different, meaning the build is not that good, but the actual numbers seem the right order of magnitude.

A 2 cross build will be less stiff than the original radial, but not by much. Had you asked for advice, I would have suggested a different spoke, giving you more stiffness for less money.

Fastbassett21

It would appear I have lived and learned .... I have been using the wheel builder for a number of years so trusted them to do the job and to be fair the wheel runs true and the only problem is the brake rub , I will be in touch with you over the winter regarding different spokes and a rebuild and again thank you for your advice.

ugo.santalucia

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19671582#p19671582]Fastbassett21[/url] wrote:

It would appear I have lived and learned .... I have been using the wheel builder for a number of years so trusted them to do the job and to be fair the wheel runs true and the only problem is the brake rub , I will be in touch with you over the winter regarding different spokes and a rebuild and again thank you for your advice.

Ceased activity, sorry... 8)

Rightarmbad

http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2016/SRA ... heel-Hubs/

The recall expands.....

ugo.santalucia

Rightarmbad wrote:

http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2016/SRAM-Recalls-Zipp-Bicycle-Wheel-Hubs/

The recall expands.....

About time... :evil:

andytee87

Is this a front hub only issue, or front and rear? I know there are issues with both on here but the recall only mentions the front hub. Mine are 303 Clinchers, with alu braking track, and the front definitely looks like the affected one. Great!

Trip to LBS tomorrow then.

ugo.santalucia

andytee87 wrote:

Is this a front hub only issue, or front and rear? I know there are issues with both on here but the recall only mentions the front hub. Mine are 303 Clinchers, with alu braking track, and the front definitely looks like the affected one. Great!

Trip to LBS tomorrow then.

I guess they call the front as it's a more dangerous accident, if that happens

Rightarmbad

I've never seen a front one fail, only drive side rears.
But like Ugo says, they are scared that a front will kill somebody and the rear one will probably just scare them.

I have a pair of these Ugo, what size spokes do you need for a rear 240 rebuild, you can't by any chance use the original can you?
At least on the non drive side?

ugo.santalucia

Rightarmbad wrote:

I've never seen a front one fail, only drive side rears.
But like Ugo says, they are scared that a front will kill somebody and the rear one will probably just scare them.

I have a pair of these Ugo, what size spokes do you need for a rear 240 rebuild, you can't by any chance use the original can you?
At least on the non drive side?

Just plot the numbers in the DT Swiss calculator... all you need to know is the ERD of the rim, which is 550 for the 303 and 526 for the 404, which includes the rim washers.
If you rebuild, then use the 240 for J spokes, at least you end up with a wheel which is easier to repair with standard spokes

Rightarmbad

I was thinking of a straight pull hub at the time I posted this, but realised later that they don't do a 20 spoke version.

Davey37mtb

andytee87 wrote:

Is this a front hub only issue, or front and rear? I know there are issues with both on here but the recall only mentions the front hub. Mine are 303 Clinchers, with alu braking track, and the front definitely looks like the affected one. Great!

Trip to LBS tomorrow then.

Just the front. Sent mine off got it back 3 weeks later.

flanners1

Why are people still buying wheels from this company their QC seems farcical?

Mate who I ride with has just specced a set of 404 Firecrest on his new Foil Di2 build...2 rides and god awful noises from rear hub when on the power off the saddle. Wheels sent back via his LBS. Shambolic. :twisted:

hambini

I think that the UK distributor is partly to blame. I got a set of Zipp 808's, the quick releases had a recall on them (Fischer didn't seem to care) and my local bike shop said it was up to me to sort out. In the end I bought a second set of QR's from wiggle rather than wait around for a replacement - which I still don't have.

burnthesheep

Flanners1 wrote:

Why are people still buying wheels from this company their QC seems farcical?

Mate who I ride with has just specced a set of 404 Firecrest on his new Foil Di2 build...2 rides and god awful noises from rear hub when on the power off the saddle. Wheels sent back via his LBS. Shambolic. :twisted:

In the next 1/2 year I'm considering buying wheels.

I know with all products sometimes "things happen". But, this is a very expensive big name brand. Not some "chinese carbon" ebay distributor.

A company's response in these matters makes all the difference.

I can say this has made me probably not consider their brand.

Overall, I feel the big name wheel makers need to be careful. At the premium price point they have, the demand for mid-quality Chinese wheels has gone way up. Not the cheapo $300 sets but something in the $700 a set range. Still $500 to $1000 cheaper, but not total junk either.

It absolutely stuns me that a carbon wheelset can cost more than an very good aero carbon frameset. The moulding of the frameset MUST be more time consuming and complicated than wheel hoops are.

I feel like this is a component category set for a big shakeup in coming years. Yoeleo and some others have elevated beyond ebay cheapo wheel status to something a few pros are running now. And have made it to the UCI list.

I just find it ludicrous myself. I feel that for a set of "medium weight" 60mm wheels on average hubs they should be able to make plenty of profit around a $700 price point. My guess is the cheaper wheels copy the "concept" of a wheel profile while the $2000 wheelset had a company spend $500k on engineers and CFD modeling and wind tunnel studies.

While a minority of riders drives the demand, the majority of riders end up footing the cost when buying a wheelset. I'm okay with a 3 year old 50 or 60mm design with a few grams penalty. And I'm guessing that's what you get with a $700 Chinese wheelset.

ugo.santalucia

burnthesheep wrote:

My guess is the cheaper wheels copy the "concept" of a wheel profile while the $2000 wheelset had a company spend $500k on engineers and CFD modeling and wind tunnel studies.

Even these softwares have trickled down to the point that every engineering student is familiar with them and typical MChem final year projects could easily provide plenty of results to prototype structures for the wind tunnel. The rim itself can then be 3D printed in plastic and lots of different designs can be compared without the need for moulds... the winning one can then become a commercial reality, all of it for not much money at all

bicycleriders

yep. thank you for your advice

Vino'sGhost

I love the word flange

svetty

Does this really need to be a sticky now?

DeVlaeminck

No !