The bike is probably 10% to 20% of your total weight. Why spend money trying to reduce small weights, when it's easier to do something about the 80% to 90%. (your body weight). Don't know about you but I always seem to have some water left at the end of a ride. You can save 250 - 300g just by not filling your bottle to the top.
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To a large degree, losing body weight is a bit of a fallacy. You carry your weight all day, the bike is in addition, and is being manipulated. A lighter bike is easier to ride and maneuver.
Lose 10kg in body weight and add it to your bike and I guarantee it will feel horrible.
Indeed, my commuter is lighter than the MTB, but once I add rack, panniers and contents (about 6Kg) it feels horrid, I carry about 1.5Kg in a backpack on my MTB (Bag, tools, spare tubes water etc) and don't even notice it.
Alu bolts in a few places. Half the weight of ti and 1/4 the price.
Momentary serious thread- it's got alu bolts on the controls as standard (Formula R1s), where else would you consider safe? Don't really fancy it on most of the stressed components. Not something I've ever messed with really.
Shifter and brake clamp bolts, remotes (forks, shock, dropper), chainrings (assuming you have steel which you probably don't), trailing (not leading) caliper bolt (PM not IS!) as it takes no tensile load and minimal shear load, also bottle cage bolts (or use Nylon if no cage!).
Everything in mechs/chain guide too and headset top cap. I run alu rotor bolts on my race wheels, Ashima jobs, the heads are a little soft, but they're still holding my rotors on, to my slight surprise.
This isn't an outright race bike (I don't do that much racing and I'm not that good at it!) so some of that sounds a bit too far... Already got alu outer chainring bolts (snapped the inner ones so went over to cheapo ti), topcap, levers but think I'll leave the brakes alone.
I'd thought it'd be a bit dicey for the bottle cage, might have to give that a go
It may sound censored (OK it does sound it) but I keep an excel spreadsheet with every single component I have on the bike weighed, so if I come across anything that may be lighter, on the scales it goes, and if it is, it goes one (as long as it's functionally good!). It's easy to do yet very helpful, OK a different brake adaptor may only save 2g, but if I have it and it's lighter I may as well fit it! (As it is I now run no adaptors as I have direct mount IS at the rear and PM at the front.
It may sound censored (OK it does sound it) but I keep an excel spreadsheet with every single component I have on the bike weighed, so if I come across anything that may be lighter, on the scales it goes, and if it is, it goes one (as long as it's functionally good!). It's easy to do yet very helpful, OK a different brake adaptor may only save 2g, but if I have it and it's lighter I may as well fit it! (As it is I now run no adaptors as I have direct mount IS at the rear and PM at the front.
Why not just get a bike not from halfords to start with?
Definitely not dicey in bottle cage, you can use nylon too, they're really light. In fact I used a nylon bolt in my headset too, from a Joystick helmet mount.
I think the headset bolt is ergal- specialized epic topcap, weighs nowt. Bottle cage bolts are steel as it doesn't usually wear a cage, no point spending money on something that gets fitted a couple of times a year, but will keep that in mind (I'd thought the weight of the bottle would overload it if it gets knocked about)
Drink loads before you go out, and connect a camelbak hose to your obvious.
No bottle or cage required and Ghandi used to drink it I believe, and he got old so it can't kill you.
Although personally I'm not fussed enough about weight to actually try it out.
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Cheapest weight savings come from being censored -ytical! (swapping to a rear IS caliper for my Shimano brakes saved me 34g in adaptor and bolts!)
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valid point but remember the man maths formula - ie, shinny/expensive = vital
unicycle
failing that, just jog round making clicky noises on the downhill bits. Bike weight drops to 0 lbs. Imagine how much faster you'll go
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Well... It could lose the dropper post
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Lose 10kg in body weight and add it to your bike and I guarantee it will feel horrible.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
retired 9.6kg Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail combined thread - come on all you Carrera's!
The Sons Scott Genius RC20 build
I weigh 9 stone! If I lose any more weight I'll go 2D.
How? Don't you live in land of the fried stuff?
Momentary serious thread- it's got alu bolts on the controls as standard (Formula R1s), where else would you consider safe? Don't really fancy it on most of the stressed components. Not something I've ever messed with really.
retired 9.6kg Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail combined thread - come on all you Carrera's!
The Sons Scott Genius RC20 build
I'd thought it'd be a bit dicey for the bottle cage, might have to give that a go
Cheers!
retired 9.6kg Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail combined thread - come on all you Carrera's!
The Sons Scott Genius RC20 build
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
No bottle or cage required and Ghandi used to drink it I believe, and he got old so it can't kill you.
Although personally I'm not fussed enough about weight to actually try it out.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
Jesus ! How tall are you ?
Last time i was 9 stone i think i was 17
Tracey
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