My bike after a bike fit!
Proff
Posts: 41
This just doesn't look right. What do you think?
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I'd take from that you need a seatpost with less laybackAnd the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0
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I'd take from that you need a bike with a shorter top tube length.
Or use another bike fitter.Yellow is the new Black.0 -
tsk. I wouldn't worry about the one where he's suggested shifting the saddle along, I'd worry about the one he's turned upside down.0
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mikebikemike wrote:tsk. I wouldn't worry about the one where he's suggested shifting the saddle along, I'd worry about the one he's turned upside down.
haha took me a little while tosee what you meant!!www.conjunctivitis.com - a site for sore eyes0 -
What was the fit set up for? Not that unusual for a TT setup on a road bike.0
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Do you have a pic of the whole bike ? Was anything done to the front end ?Science adjusts it’s beliefs based on what’s observed.
Faith is the denial of observation so that Belief can be preserved0 -
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A work of art0
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Is the seat post back to front? either way that's a fail! Who did the bike fitting?0
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Looks similar to how mine is set up on my road bike You gotta tell us who fit you though.0
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That's... extreme. Is the tip of the saddle actually in front of the BB...??
If that's actually right for you, and you want a setup that doesn't require the seatpost to be reversed, you will need a frame with a steeper seat tube angle. If the angle on your current frame is 73, you might be able to get away with an inline post on a frame with a 74.5 seat tube angle.
Have to ask though - do you have really weird physiology, like shins that are twice as long as your thighs or something?0 -
Let me get this right, that setpost is back to front right?
I had to do a double take.Scott Speedster S20 Roadie for Speed
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n+1 is well and truly on track
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Please tell the bike fit stopped as that point. I trust you didn't pay, you owe it to other forum members to advise who conducted this bike bit (at least give an indication of area).0
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Didn't realise Stevie wounder had taken to bike fitting ......0
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Oh dear - please name and shame the bike fitter so that everyone else can avoid them. Actually - i'd be sending that picture to the owner of the company (assuming he isnt the fitter) to ask what sort of bike fit means putting a seatpost on back to front.
Thats a complete disgrace tbh. As said above - do you have 6 inch long thighs? You're likely going to end up with a lot of pain in the front of your knees if you're "normal" with such a forward position.0 -
the bike could be totally the wrong size but I would expect the bike fitter to tell you this if it is. It does look like the saddle set back to BB is very small. Maybe the reach is too long for you or you've got very short femurs. It's pointless criticising the fitter from just a photo of half a bike0
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MrBrightside wrote:Please tell the bike fit stopped as that point. I trust you didn't pay, you owe it to other forum members to advise who conducted this bike bit (at least give an indication of area).
Why? If the OP bought a bike that's too big then that is in fact the most cost effective way to "make it fit" as an inline post or shorter stem cost.
I don't think we're getting the whole story here...
@Paul- You're wrong. KOPS isn't a fool-proof or even valid fitting technique. Storck's, for example, are designed to be ridden with inline posts.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0 -
agree with those calling for name and shame, any shop sending a customer out on a bike that looks like that just beggars belief2012 Cannondale CAAD 8 1050
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The only reason I could see for this is the OP is riding with tri-bars, or is in the possession of very long legs and an incredibly short torso.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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Monty Dog wrote:The only reason I could see for this is the OP is riding with tri-bars, or is in the possession of very long legs and an incredibly short torso.
You missed a few.
1. OP bought a bike that is too big
2. OP has poor lumbar flexibility
3. OP is lacking in core strength and requires a more upright position
Seriously, there are loads of reasons. Without knowing more about the OP then there's no definitive way to tell.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0 -
Grill wrote:
@Paul- You're wrong. KOPS isn't a fool-proof or even valid fitting technique. Storck's, for example, are designed to be ridden with inline posts.
The key word being "designed". The OPs bike clearly isnt designed to be ridden with a seatpost on back to front with the saddle then rammed as far forward as possible on its rails. Having had knee pain from a saddle too far forward, and seen the exact same thing with two different riding budies - I dont see how you can say definitively that i'm "wrong". While we all ride in slightly different positions - that fitting is several cm/ inches rather than mm further forward than "normal".0 -
Steve Hogg says you're wrong too
http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/
Storck geometries aren't that different than any other road bike, it's just that Marcus has a different way of doing things.
I ride with a zero setback post with the saddle quite far forward (I've had 2 fits). This is despite the fact that I'm 5'11" and ride a 54. I have no knee pain even on 250+ mile rides, consecutive centuries, or very hilly rides.
Point is you can't decide whether or not the fit is correct without examining all the variables.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0 -
My money is on the bike being too big0
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Grill wrote:Steve Hogg says you're wrong too
http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/
Whatever - if you think that slamming the saddle about 3 inches forward is right then fine - have it your way. I'm sure Steve Hogg would be happy to send a bike out in the OPs position with the saddle almost directly above the Bottom Bracket.
Oh and PS - it might have escaped your attention but the OP isnt riding an inline seatpost - he's got a setback seatpost on back to front with the saddle slammed forward. There's a world of difference between what's right for an individual, and whats almost certain to be wrong as is the specific case with the OP's picture - which is what he asked0 -
We have not even seen the front yet :shock:0
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I'm well aware his post is flipped- read my first post in this thread.
My fit on my bike is correct. I used to ride a 56 (on pretty much everyones advice) but it took a proper fit to determine that due to the fact that the vertebrae in my lumbar are fused I'd need a smaller frame. As you say- fit is individual, so why crucify the fitter before getting the whole story?
As I and many others have said the most likely culprit is a bike that's too big. The fitter was probably just doing what he could which entailed putting a band-aid on a broken arm.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0 -
It's got to be a wind up, you'd be given the reason behind the seatpost/saddle position, probably told that the frame is too big for you and this is the only answer.0
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Looks like the bike is too big, as others have said.
Nothing wrong with being inventive to get a bike comfortable but the problem here is that I guess this has been done to sort out a problem with reach but moving the seat this far forward will cause a problem with the crank position causing knee problems.
What size stem do you have? Would it not be possible to fit a shorter stem? Has the stem been flipped to give more reach and a more upright position?
All of these things you could try yourself and see how you feel...
You can get stems quite cheaply to try and whilst loads of people will tell you that a good bike fit is worth the money, they are very expensive and I know when I am comfortable.0 -
It's too simple to say that the frame is "too big". Saddle position shouldn't in any way be determined by trying to get the reach correct. If the OP really needs to be that far forward relative to the BB, then it's the seat tube angle on the frame that's wrong for him, and only that. Seat tube angles tend to be shallower on larger sized frames, but they vary a lot from one model to another, probably more than between the frame sizes in any given frame model.0