H Plus Son Archetype build

So I have decided to build some new summer wheels and think that I would like to build with the Archetype rims from H Plus Son.
I already have some winter/commuting wheels (Ambosio Excellight rims on Ultegra 32/32 hubs) and some Zipp 303 tubs for racing so these new wheels will not have to be used for those situations. They will mainly be used in the dry for training and club runs. I think the rims look to be perfect (wide rims, reasonably light, semi aero, look good) for what I am after.
The question is what hubs, spokes and lacing should I use? I weigh around 69kg and am thinking that building 24/28 should give me a reasonable balance between stiffness and lightness. I live in a reasonably hilly area with not much flat so keeping the weight down is desirable. I can't stretch the budget to hubs like Chris King or Royce which I would love to be able to build with so I am contemplating some Miche Primato hubs or maybe Novatec A291/F482 hubs. I have a feeling that getting hold of a mixed 24/28 pair of Miche Primatos might be difficult as they seem to be sold as pairs. Does anybody have experience with these hubs or the Novatec hubs?
Perhaps some builders on here could let me know their thoughts on lacing? Radial front, 2 cross rear? And spokes?
Too many questions.
I already have some winter/commuting wheels (Ambosio Excellight rims on Ultegra 32/32 hubs) and some Zipp 303 tubs for racing so these new wheels will not have to be used for those situations. They will mainly be used in the dry for training and club runs. I think the rims look to be perfect (wide rims, reasonably light, semi aero, look good) for what I am after.
The question is what hubs, spokes and lacing should I use? I weigh around 69kg and am thinking that building 24/28 should give me a reasonable balance between stiffness and lightness. I live in a reasonably hilly area with not much flat so keeping the weight down is desirable. I can't stretch the budget to hubs like Chris King or Royce which I would love to be able to build with so I am contemplating some Miche Primato hubs or maybe Novatec A291/F482 hubs. I have a feeling that getting hold of a mixed 24/28 pair of Miche Primatos might be difficult as they seem to be sold as pairs. Does anybody have experience with these hubs or the Novatec hubs?
Perhaps some builders on here could let me know their thoughts on lacing? Radial front, 2 cross rear? And spokes?
Too many questions.
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Posts
I'm planning on using Sapim race double butted spokes, radial 28 front brass nipples, 28 two cross back. Im 68 kg.
But would like to have someone back up with experience. The only thing i'm doubting is of course the hubs.
I'm using Novatec high flange hubs now and while the build quality isn't all that bad I may turn to some cup/cone bearings since a hand build set should be easy to service too imo. Miche primato was on my list but is considerably heavier.
oh yeah, i've also decided on all black.
good fortune! Hope it helps you too.
Heard good things about the Zenith's. Do they only come in silver though?
I have just been reading Ugo's new site, (some nice advice on there) and see that he has recently built these rims with the same hubs in 20/24 with CX Rays. Would be interested to know if you think they would be stiff enough for 69kg Ugo?
They're available in black as well, and mine are 32 hole so they are available
I've got 24/28 CX-Rays on a pair of Archetypes on CK R45s and I generally weigh around 72kg. There isn't a sniff of flex in them, it's a pretty stiff rim. I contemplated 20/24 but I erred on the side of caution and I very much doubt the extra 64g or so has affected me in any way.
I've also just built up a pair of 32/32 DT Competition /DT Revolution on Royce hubs. Not ridden them yet.
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
Stiff yes, durable no... Those were wheels I built, not wheels I recommended. Depends what mileage you expect. The Novatec 482 is not the most durable hub... Bearing replacement within 1000 miles is not unusual.
I concur.
Ugo, could you recommend a set of cup and cone bearings for a 28/28 setup?
Miche hubs are the most drable on a budget while keeping the weight down. If I was doing a set of archetypes in 24F/28R with Miche hbs I would use Radial lacing on the fornt and 2x on the rear. I am doing a set right now well I started today and I finsih the front wheel tomorrow. These are 28F/32R on Miche hub but they are for a heavier rider. 24F/28R is perfect. I aslo would not suggest 20F/24R sch spoke counts are for racing where long spoke life is not needed. For spokes I would suggest Sapim Lasers all round, same weight as CX-rays but less costly.
The other hubs that would I would suggest are Dura ace 7900 if you don't mind silver and these are sup and cone and are availble in 28/28. The Dura ace 9000 hubs are a possibility too and are available in black. but the record hubs work if 32 spoke drillings are fine with you. 24F/28R is fine for your weight though unless you are a 1 kW powerstation.
tnxalot
Spot on. I think the wet weather will really reduce the usable life of bearings in the lightweight Novatec hubs - as it has on mine. If you nurse them, they will probably be fine.
Seriously impressed with the wheels - and a credit to Ugo who advised on the spec prior to building them. 8) 8)
viewtopic.php?f=40013&t=12911022
Thats the config I chose... but I did push the boat out for Chris Kings on the basis that they will probably outlive me.
Wheel envy. They look amazing! Red Chris Kings? Can you post up a pic of the hubs please?
I should point out they they strip the black from the brake track the moment you use them in the wet.
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
Should that not be "stealth black"? Very nice btw.
28F/28R
H+son Archetype 28h/ Miche Primato Black/Sapim race black/ black brass nipples
Your money, but it is not clear to me why you invest 70 pounds in hubs and 150 in spokes... :shock:
sorry i was mistaken, the wheels are being build with the traditional leader spokes.
C
Also if you have never had the Miche hubs try them they are as good as hubs many times the price, they even have proper preload adjusment and are easy to service.maintain not that they need that very often.
Price is not always a good indicator of quality or suitability ofr intended use, it is a good indicator of what people are willing to pay. Chris King hubs fall into that latter catagory I feel.
What is important in a hub is not the name or how smooth it roll or any such nonsence (all hubs roll smooth and the power consumed by a draggy/rough hub is so small you will never notice unless it is really bad). What is important is the hub dimensions, specifially the hub flange diameter the and the centre of the flange to centre of hub distance.
The bigger all those numbers are the higher the bracing angle is. The bracing angle stongly influences how stiff the rear wheel is. Most front hubs give good bracing angles but not all rear hubs do. The bracing angle is also influenced by spoke length (shorter spokes give a higher bracing angle). So what makes a good hub is
1) the bracing angles, as high as possible on the rear (and the front).
2) Ease of servicability- what is the point in a hub that require expensive tools to service (DT Swiss and Chris King for example).
3) Bearing life
4) Tension balance on the rear wheel
If a hub flange cracks then that hub is not really worthy of spokes. A balance of all these four characteritics is needed.
The Novatec rear F482 hub give excellent bracing angle. The Dura ace 7402, 7700 and 7800 are even better (Shimano 105 and ultegra hubs are excellent too). The Miche hubs are also very good in this regard. Also all these hubs are easy to service. The Miche and 105, uletgra and Dura ace hubs have good bearing life even if riden in the wet. The Novatec are fine if you are careful. The Dura ace and Novatec hubs give better tension balance than the Miche hubs do but Miche hubs are cheaper than the Shimano offerings and are 11 speed compatible.
Chris King hubs give good tension balance, and give good bracing angles but not easy to service (special tools required to remove bearings) and are very expensive.
DT Swiss 240 hubs as nice as they are give poor bracing angles on the rear, require special tools to remove bearings and.
Shimano hubs are cup and cone and can be serviced with cone spanner and a axle vice.
Miche and novatec hubs can be serviced easily with allen keys. Main bearing removal is easy usig cheap bearing extractors and a very simple bearing press is need to push the new bearings home. Freehubs just pop off.
Hope hubs are simple to service but do not give the best bracing angles.
So some cheap hubs are really quite good. There is more to hubs than a name.
For some reason I read CX ray... my fault and yes, good choice... :oops:
And here are the silver ones;
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX