Buy tools or pay shop?

sungod

mmm, tools

iPete

SecretSam wrote:

Get a toolkit, I got a cheap decent one as recommended in C+ and it's marvellous, the feeling of being able to do even simple stuff is ace, eg changing a cassette. Pay around £70-100, much cheaper than buying bits separately, you'll soon get the money back in saved workshop bills

Plus you're more likely to look after your bike if you have the tools to do it

A stand is a great investment as well - I bought mind from Revolution bikes (Edinburgh) for about £40-50 in the sale, bulky but really makes looking after the bike easier

All of this. Buying every bit as you need it is frustrating and costly. Get yourself a toolbox which will have 95% of what you need from the go.

Then get a workstand, this one is often on sale for around £50 or available with a different badge in other stores: http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/product ... -workstand

In 2 years I must have done 10+ full services, that's what, £1000+ in LBS work?

Riggsy12

Damn it totally forgot about tool kits! Too late now, on a good note I have alot what comes in the bicycle tool kits minus a decent pedal wrench and the wrench to remove the crank arms...

itboffin

Having spent a small fortune now on tools there's only one reason I wouldnt tackle a 'fettling' job, because the resulting fook up could not cost effectively be repaired ie cutting a very expensive fork steerer tube or gluing your MOFO bottom bracket cups into a very expensive (should not have bought) frame, that way if something goes wrong I can blame and claim against the mechanic :twisted:

But in all seriousness I feel much more confident on bikes built by me, I know every nut and bolt, cables and part has been carefully fitted and checked, which might not always be the case with your 'average' LBS build and service.

Not wanting to mention any names but even one of my local yokel LBS stores fooked a bottom bracket fitting I didnt have time to do, luckily I'd done plenty already so could tell ... moral of the story buy yourself a basic tool kit and start fettling.

oh and MTFU

caad5

buy the tools and have fun!

A KIRK

You can never have enough tools, one you start collecting them it becomes addictive and you want more. Most of my tools have been bought over many years mainly for car repairs etc but also for bikes. The down side is your mates will always want to borrow them or ask you to repair things for them.

schweiz

Have a look at this....

For a home mechanic, sets like this are more than adequate for the cycle specific tools. I've been using the Lifu branded version of this kit for the last 5 years and have built up the VN, the BMC and the Singlespeed and stripped and rebuilt half a dozen other bikes for friends with no problems.

The only things I'd add is a decent set of screwdrivers, good quality allen keys, proper spanners and sockets and definitely stay away from adjustable wrenches until they are the last resort.

http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/TOJ ... h_tool_kit

navrig

Keep an eye on Halfords. They often sell their Pro-quality socket sets heavily discounted. Probably OTT for bike maintenance but of you do any car or motorbike work then defo worth it.

schweiz

Navrig wrote:

Keep an eye on Halfords. They often sell their Pro-quality socket sets heavily discounted. Probably OTT for bike maintenance but of you do any car or motorbike work then defo worth it.

+1. Whilst Halfords get stick for their bike selling and after care, their professional range of sockets and ring spanners have been faultless over the 20 years for me.

rolf_f

schweiz wrote:

Have a look at this....

For a home mechanic, sets like this are more than adequate for the cycle specific tools. I've been using the Lifu branded version of this kit for the last 5 years and have built up the VN, the BMC and the Singlespeed and stripped and rebuilt half a dozen other bikes for friends with no problems.

I have the Lifu kit. I've rebuilt several bikes with it and maintained my bikes over about 28,000 miles of riding. I've bust two of the cassette lockring tools (before deciding it was time to get a Park one only to discover that the Park one was no tougher in the metal and considerably inferior in design), the chain tool and the chainwhip needs the chain replacing (but I can use chain offcuts for that).

Otherwise, it has all been fine and I have used every single tool in the kit.

The rule for this thread is just buy the tools - buy tools as soon as you need them as everytime you dither and pay the LBS to do the work you could do yourself, you are effectively paying twice if you then later get the tools.

TommyB61

Rolf F wrote:

The rule for this thread is just buy the tools - buy tools as soon as you need them as everytime you dither and pay the LBS to do the work you could do yourself, you are effectively paying twice if you then later get the tools.

Spot on. I'm not what you'd call mechanically minded, & even I've learned to use the tools I've bought to do most bike - related jobs. Bike tools are a good investment imo.

smidsy

TommyB61 wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

The rule for this thread is just buy the tools - buy tools as soon as you need them as everytime you dither and pay the LBS to do the work you could do yourself, you are effectively paying twice if you then later get the tools.

Spot on. I'm not what you'd call mechanically minded, & even I've learned to use the tools I've bought to do most bike - related jobs. Bike tools are a good investment imo.

+ many.

Also even if you do something and just want it checking for peace of mind, it is a lot cheaper for the LBS to give it the once over than it is for them to do it from scratch.

Besides, what can possibly go wrong!!! 8)

navrig

smidsy wrote:

Besides, what can possibly go wrong!!! 8)

I refer the honourable gentlemen to the OP's statement about buying an adjustable spanner.......... :shock:

A KIRK

I'd bin the adjustable spanner, there only good for removing skin from your knuckles. Oh and the colder the weather the more it hurts.

JackPozzi

Do you guys really struggle that much with adjustables? I always use one on my cassette tool, with the size of the spanner flats on the thing, I have no problem with slippage? Prefer not to use adjustables on smaller nuts but I find they tend to stay on anything 20mm+ ok.

smidsy

Navrig wrote:

smidsy wrote:

Besides, what can possibly go wrong!!! 8)

I refer the honourable gentlemen to the OP's statement about buying an adjustable spanner.......... :shock:

Why do you think I have safety glasses on

Seriously though, an adjustable spanner on the cassette tool is fine, in fact I use one. If the operator is competent there is no issue.

Reminds me of the time when the Suzuki TL1000S (sorry motorbikes) came out and the press started going on about its a hooligan that will rip your throat out. Born again 40 somethings were just over riding the thing and then wondering why it didn't handle. We had one in our race team and it was a very decent machine.

It's all about control

navrig

smidsy wrote:

Navrig wrote:

smidsy wrote:

Besides, what can possibly go wrong!!! 8)

I refer the honourable gentlemen to the OP's statement about buying an adjustable spanner.......... :shock:

Why do you think I have safety glasses on

Seriously though, an adjustable spanner on the cassette tool is fine, in fact I use one. If the operator is competent there is no issue.

Reminds me of the time when the Suzuki TL1000S (sorry motorbikes) came out and the press started going on about its a hooligan that will rip your throat out. Born again 40 somethings were just over riding the thing and then wondering why it didn't handle. We had one in our race team and it was a very decent machine.

It's all about control

Twitchy front end partially sorted with a steering damper IIRC.

smidsy

Navrig wrote:

smidsy wrote:

Navrig wrote:

smidsy wrote:

Reminds me of the time when the Suzuki TL1000S (sorry motorbikes) came out and the press started going on about its a hooligan that will rip your throat out. Born again 40 somethings were just over riding the thing and then wondering why it didn't handle. We had one in our race team and it was a very decent machine.

It's all about control

Twitchy front end partially sorted with a steering damper IIRC.

Well that was the official conclusion and remedy yes. Suzuki even retro fitted steering dampers free.

In reality it was 40 somethings with twitchy throttle control, partially sorted out by learning to ride a fcucking bike that had more than 30 bhp and did not have square tyres and drum brakes

The rear shock was also a 'unique' rotary damper that had a tendancy to make the back want to be the front in the hands of some foolhardy dentist or barister.

schweiz

Although Suzuki did eventually recall them and fit a steering damper IIRC!

The problem with adjustable spanners is that you have to keep your thumb on the worm gear to stop them opening up. So you're undoing a nut, it's a proving a bit hard to shift, your thumb slips, the jaws open slightly, the spanner slips off. At best the nut is slightly rounded at worst you impale the spanner into something expensive (like a carbon frame!)

I only use an adjustable spanner on the gas bottle on the BBQ because it's not done up stupidly tight and it gets changed once in a blue moon as 11 kg of propane cooks a lot of food!

FWIW, I built up a set of 1/2" sockets, good quality spanners and some 'proper' allen keys when I was at Uni and had to do my own motorbike repairs. I just bought everything as and when I needed it, usually from the Halfords Professional range. I bought a Sealey 2-20 Nm torque wrench when I started getting 'serious' about doing bike builds/repairs and got a set of 3/8" Draper sockets and hex bits. I rarely use a spanner on my bike, generally opting for a socket. The rest of my 'cycling' tool kit is a mix of Park, Ice Toolz and KMC.

lotus49

Adjustable spanners are for emergencies only.

I used to spend a lot of time with my motorbike in pieces and I quickly learnt that buying a set of decent spanners (open-ended and ring) and a socket set would save a lot of grief later on.

Adjustable spanners will never be as good a fit as a proper spanner and using them does, as others have pointed out above, result in rounded nuts and skinned knuckles. If you have ever rounded off a nut somewhere difficult to reach you will know what a complete pain it can be to remove it. The technique I have used on cars and motorbikes of hammering the side of the rounded nut hard with a small cold chisel, is not one I would fancy trying on a delicate carbon bike.

Anonymous

There are adjustable spanners and adjustable spanners though.
I have a cheap set of Halfords ring spanners, but my adjustable ones cost a fortune.
I know what you mean about using the right tool/spanner for the job, but cannot help thinking that the adjustable spanners being talked about here are generally the nasty, wobbly chrome ones that the adjusting screw jams up on!

smidsy

The only thing I use the adjustable for is the (Park) lock ring tool. It is ideal for this purpose; indeed it is the Park tools recommended way (see the list of tools and the vid here)

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... el-removal

You are simply applying pressure in a very short burst to free the lockring, then its fingers. Similarly when tightening, fingers most of the way then the spanner to nip it up at the end.

Everything else is sockets, screw drivers and t-bar allen tools.

Honestly why is everything on here such a battle lately :-)

navrig

Carbonator wrote:

There are adjustable spanners and adjustable spanners though.
I have a cheap set of Halfords ring spanners, but my adjustable ones cost a fortune.
I know what you mean about using the right tool/spanner for the job, but cannot help thinking that the adjustable spanners being talked about here are generally the nasty, wobbly chrome ones that the adjusting screw jams up on!

You are probably correct however in the context of this thread the OP says he is new to this. Most beginners faced with a price tag for a decent set of spanners or a cheap adjustable will opt for the cheap adjustable. Hence the warnings.

smidsy wrote:

The only thing I use the adjustable for is the (Park) lock ring tool. It is ideal for this purpose; indeed it is the Park tools recommended way (see the list of tools and the vid here)

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... el-removal

You are simply applying pressure in a very short burst to free the lockring, then its fingers. Similarly when tightening, fingers most of the way then the spanner to nip it up at the end.

Everything else is sockets, screw drivers and t-bar allen tools.

Honestly why is everything on here such a battle lately :-)

I agree that for cassette removal using an adjustable is not such a big issue however when you have an adjustable to hand and the spanners are out of reach it is always tempting to use what is nearby.

As a kid I never had a decent toolkit but always tried to do (bodge) repairs on my bikes. We did have a set of pliers and 2 sets of mole grips (large and small). It took me far too long to learn that neither of these are any good at undoing nuts and bolts. I eventually got a cheap box spanner (remember them?) and it did most of what I wanted for a long time.

rolf_f

Navrig wrote:

As a kid I never had a decent toolkit but always tried to do (bodge) repairs on my bikes. We did have a set of pliers and 2 sets of mole grips (large and small). It took me far too long to learn that neither of these are any good at undoing nuts and bolts. I eventually got a cheap box spanner (remember them?) and it did most of what I wanted for a long time.

Because I'm tight, I haven't yet got round to treating all my bikes to their own saddlebag toolkits. So when I go to visit my parents and ride my old 1980 Raleigh Record Ace, I bring a toolkit from home. And every time I put the multitool into the saddlebag, I look at it and think that there is virtually nothing on it that is of any use to the Raleigh - allen bolts have a lot to answer for! I really must remember to bring one of these dumbbell spanners over with me.

schweiz

Navrig wrote:

As a kid I never had a decent toolkit but always tried to do (bodge) repairs on my bikes. We did have a set of pliers and 2 sets of mole grips (large and small).

Did we live in the same house ?

The mole grips, a pair of pliers and a couple of blue handled screwdrivers were in the bottom drawer in the kitchen and these were my only implements for many years until my dad let me use 'his' tools!

When my parents leave this world, my sister gets my mum's jewellery and I get my dad's tools. What my sister doesn't know is that the tools are probably worth more!

Anonymous

OMG a box spanner, I am having an 80's flashback!
Space 1999, Swap Shop, Space Dust, Stink Bombs, Red Bus Rover, Merlin, Scalextric ..............

smidsy

Carbonator wrote:

OMG a box spanner, I am having an 80's flashback!
Space 1999, Swap Shop, Space Dust, Stink Bombs, Red Bus Rover, Merlin, Scalextric ..............

I was with you all the way....right up to Red Bus Rover?

Anonymous

smidsy wrote:

Carbonator wrote:

OMG a box spanner, I am having an 80's flashback!
Space 1999, Swap Shop, Space Dust, Stink Bombs, Red Bus Rover, Merlin, Scalextric ..............

I was with you all the way....right up to Red Bus Rover?

It was basically a one day London bus pass for kids. Think it was about 50p.
Either Sat afternoon after Swap Shop, or all day Sunday. Nothing was really open on a Sunday in those days though.

I thought 'Merlin' was the tricky one as it's nothing to do with wizards.

smidsy

Carbonator wrote:

smidsy wrote:

Carbonator wrote:

OMG a box spanner, I am having an 80's flashback!
Space 1999, Swap Shop, Space Dust, Stink Bombs, Red Bus Rover, Merlin, Scalextric ..............

I was with you all the way....right up to Red Bus Rover?

It was basically a one day London bus pass for kids. Think it was about 50p.
Either Sat afternoon after Swap Shop, or all day Sunday. Nothing was really open on a Sunday in those days though.

I thought 'Merlin' was the tricky one as it's nothing to do with wizards.

Ahh, that explains it...a Southern thing

Merlin...wasn't he a robot?

Anonymous

Nope, but it did need batteries.
I think 'Big Trak' and Metal Micky were the only 80's robots