Carrera Hardtail thread - owners pictures and spec's
Comments
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Love the colour scheme rookie!Bossnut - http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=13069531
Vengeance - http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12897374&p=19829658&hilit=installed#p19829658
Some of the gear, less than no idea...0 -
Hi guys this is my Vulcan Carrera, I bought the bike new in 2011 and have been using it regularly ever since, it's been heavily customized for being ridden with one hand while at the same time gaining numerous generic upgrades.
As I'm sure you've all seen a Vulcan before I will just list the stuff that's been replaced/added.
From the front back (excluding handlebar contents):
Continental Double Fighter II tyres
Avid X0 Trail Disc Brakes with HSX 6 Bolt 180mm Rotors
Zefal Deflector FM20 Front Clip-On Mud Guard
Rock Shox SID World Cup XX Carbon Front Forks
Hope EC44/40 "Type H" external cup (replaced the stock ZS44/28.6 one to allow tapered steerer)
Two generic alloy bottle holders
Nukeproof Electron Evo Pedals (Green)
Generic bike lock
Topeak Wedge Bike Bag
Rear mudguard from the SKS Bluemels Olympic Racer Mudguard Set
Bikehut Disc Brake Alloy Pannier Rack + Smart Lunar R2 USB Rear Light
And the Handlebar contents left to right:
Foam padded armrest
Rockshox SID XX X-Loc (remote fork lockout)
A torch holder, which holds a Lezyne Super Drive Y8 USB front bike light
A torch holder, which holds a Cree XML-T6 MTB Head Light
Sram Xo 3 Speed front twist shifter on an ACOR single bracket alloy bar extension
Stock rear shifter
Stock bell
Avid X0 brake levers (stacked one under the other and triggers set to engage rear brakes first if pulled together)
Ritchey WCS Ergo Truegrip Foam Handlebar Grip
Club roost bar end I've been using since the 90's lol
Future plans include some Tannus Aither MTB tyres, because puncture proof trumps puncture resistant and the comfort trade-off is worth it IMO, and I want to fit a clip on bar to extend out the armrest so my right elbow doest end up bent when not holding the bar end.0 -
Clearly a very specific bike for you, always interesting to look at bikes like that, the SID XX is probably an overachiever for your use but it's a good light fork.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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so, since the last picture (ty the rookie for the pic upload) its now a newer vulcan disc spec frame, the old steed was used as a doner (wheels and shifters). soon as moredirt have approved my post will upload the link, bike weighs in at just under 14KG's getting new custom built wheels today so should lose about 500g's
happy riding
June_Rider0 -
So, this happened today;
image url upload
(Excuse the mess, struggling for floor space in the garage at the minute)
'09 Vulcan off gumtree to be used as a commuter for my brother. It was in OK condition aside from needing a tune up. The naff Suntour forks are in surpassingly good condition for their age, but I've bunged some old Fox evolution RL's that I had waiting around on it. Going to dig out some acceptable disc brakes and try source a cheap disc rear wheel to make use of them. (Raise your hand if anyone has one for sale )
So far I'm in to it for £100 and the forks.0 -
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I really like the paintjobs on the recent carrera ranges. Say what you will about Halfords but someone there has a half decent eye.
I'd be tempted to see if you can get some better tyres before the brakes. From the couple of Carreras I've had I know that the tyres tend to weigh an absolute tonne and the compound in them isn't often the best. You could have the strongest stoppers in the world but it won't help if the tyres keep locking up or washing out in turns!
Shedding rotating mass is an easy way to see an improvement in the bike, especially with the larger wheel diameter.
You're right about the fork though, keep your peepers in the classifieds for a good deal, pretty much anything will be an improvement over what you have. You could probably have a set of fox floats or something like that for ~£160 that would immediately knock over a kilo off the bikes weight and improve the front wheels tracking no end.0 -
Thanks maybe I should look at the tyres first possibly tubeless too. Cant believe the weight difference between the suntour fork any air fork but for now I'm just going to get out and ride it0
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Yep, they're definitely the weak link in the spec sheet for the bike. On the old 26" Carreras, the forks alone weighed about 2.6kg if I remember correctly. I changed the ones on mine for some fox floats like I say, they came in at 1.6kg. A big difference obviously but the change was compounded by the fact that it was removing unsprung weight that helped the front wheel track the ground properly.
I changed over to conti x-King race sports with lightweight tubes at the same time. The kendas that came on the bike weighed twice as much as the contis, so I pretty much removed the weight of an entire...tyre.. The cumulative effect was nothing short of remarkable.
Enjoy the bike!0 -
The XCx on most the older Carrera's were about 2.25Kg which is similar to the same level offerings from other companies. But yes decent forks are a big improvement I used to run Manitou Skareb on mine - 1450g.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Just dug these out of the garage. XCT V2's off a 2009 Vulcan. Off the readout on the crappy kitchen scales!
If anyone has a dead body they need to throw in the river, they can have these to tie on to it!
images hosting0 -
Hello fellow Carrera owners 2010 Carrera Fury with the Truvativ Blaze 3.0 crankset. To change to 1x9 can I just remove the large and granny rings and fit single chainring bolts instead to run the 32T ring?
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Are you wanting to keep the same Chainring? You'll need a chain device, clutch rear derailleur or a combination of them to stop it jumping off all the time probably. You could use your front derailleur locked in position with the limit screws as a bit of a diy chain device but it's not the most elegant way of getting a 1 x 9 setup. It'll be ok to test it out to see if you like it though.
Cranks seem to be 104bcd so it'll be easy enough to take all the rings off and replace your middle ring with a narrow-wide instead. Superstar do some cheap ones and regularly have them on sale.0 -
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Keep an eye on the Clarkes brakes AND keep hold of your receipt. I had some on a Carrera and ended up with the piston binding constantly, causing it to rub no matter what I did to it; apparently its a reasonably common porblem with them. Shortening the hose shouldn't be too much of a problem on most brakes but it didnt go to plan for me with the M2's. I had a bit of trouble removing one of the hoses from the lever; the olive had been deformed badly in the factory by a combination of over tightening and it not being seated correctly. I had to yank the hose out with a bit more force than I was comfortable with which left the olive in the lever body. I Ended up using a small drill bit to drill the centre section of the olive (its the integrated hose insert to stop the olive crushing the hose) then use a very small allen key with the short side cut down as a sort of hook to pry it out. Had to flush the lever well before connecting it all back up. For the money they were 'ok', but if I need budget brakes in future i'll be going with some Acera hydros or something.
Edit:I'd bought a universal bleed kit for my XTR's that had the correct bleed adapter for them from Epic bleed solutions, they seem to be a bit of a faff to locate otherwise.0 -
demelitia wrote:Keep an eye on the Clarkes brakes AND keep hold of your receipt. I had some on a Carrera and ended up with the piston binding constantly, causing it to rub no matter what I did to it; apparently its a reasonably common porblem with them. Shortening the hose shouldn't be too much of a problem on most brakes but it didnt go to plan for me with the M2's. I had a bit of trouble removing one of the hoses from the lever; the olive had been deformed badly in the factory by a combination of over tightening and it not being seated correctly. I had to yank the hose out with a bit more force than I was comfortable with which left the olive in the lever body. I Ended up using a small drill bit to drill the centre section of the olive (its the integrated hose insert to stop the olive crushing the hose) then use a very small allen key with the short side cut down as a sort of hook to pry it out. Had to flush the lever well before connecting it all back up. For the money they were 'ok', but if I need budget brakes in future i'll be going with some Acera hydros or something.
Edit:I'd bought a universal bleed kit for my XTR's that had the correct bleed adapter for them from Epic bleed solutions, they seem to be a bit of a faff to locate otherwise.
Managed to shorten mine with no problems after a few youtube tutorials lol they held up pretty well at afan forest this week did Y Wal with my 10yo in front of me which meant a lot of braking, Ill keep an eye on them binding though thanks0 -
Just brought a Carrera Fury 2017 model. I haven't ridden trails properly in 14 years and even then I was more into BMX at that point.
Got it boxed from Halfords, firstly to avoid the dodgy mechanic stories I hear and also so I get a good idea how the bike works for future repairs etc. Took me a while and indexing the gears was annoying until I decided to open the SRAM manual and found the correct distance for the B gap!
Model: Fury 2017 20 inch
Forks: Suntour Raidon
Brakes: Sram DB 1
Gears and Chain set: SRAM NX1 1 x 11
Tyres: Conti X King
Weight 13.7kg
Likely going to change the bars as they are a bit short and add a dropper (RSP stealth is nice and budget friendly) and go tubeless. Possibly going to change the wheel but will decide when I ride it.
I haven't actually ridden it yet as I remembered to but a shock pump but my old Schrader pump was useless so need to go get a new pump!
Update:
Have made a few updates to the bike since O have brought it. I have been enjoying the bike however there have been a few issues (first bike went back as the shock would not stay pressurised, this has happened on the new bike also not only onyce and been ok since. Have also had to keep dropping the fork out to grease as it keeps getting very stiff).
I have added:
Lock on Grips (Giant)
Race face Chester 780mm Riser
Pro FRS Stem
Enduro guard
RSP Plummet external 125mm dropper
Lizard Skinz chain stay protector
Nukeproof Evo Pedals
Hans Dampf (F) Nobby Nic (R) tubeless set up
Organic brake pads
Current photos below:
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I think this is a 2010, guy on ebay had the forks and frame for sale so ended up building this.
It's not too bad, I prefer it to my boardman comp 09.0 -
So far, this is all I have. A stripped down Vulkan. However, I have new white carrera decals to add after the base clearcoat and I will be transfering a load of gear from my smashed up On-One frame that I used as an urban bike. Will post more when done to support the Carrera crew.
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hey guys can anybody share with me their photos of their carrera vulcan 2017, id like to see how other peoples look0
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Anyone drilled a Carrera frame to fit a stealth dropper?_______________
Chris
Current FS: 2017 Nukeproof Mega 275
Current HT: 2017 Nukeproof Scout 275
Kids Carrera Blast Refurb/Upgrade
My Blog - Midlife MTB Mutterings
Previous FS: 2014 Nukeproof Mega TR 26'er0 -
my 4yr old sons new/old carrerra blast 16, a few upgrades and a bit of tinkering
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Looks like you need to turn the forks the right way0
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Wilberforce wrote:Looks like you need to turn the forks the right way
Yeh. I got it as a donation and it has been abused.... How could I not notice that0 -
My 1995-ish Carrera Banshee. Untouched in over 10 years apart from new sexy red tyres, which are now on my full sus XC bike. Weighs about 15kg I think.
Exciting things are about to happen.
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