Carrera Hardtail thread - owners pictures and spec's

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Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You have to look at every component, bar ends (do you use them as they aren't at the same angle!), grips, bars, stem, seatpost, saddle, seatpost clamp etc etc. how much does the rim tape weigh, lightweight can be circa 5g, I've seen it as heavy as 45g, tubes etc
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    Haha yes I do use them, I noticed after I took the photo an muttered some insults to myself.

    Weight saving does get a bit much, rim tape I'm using electrical tape if I can get some folding slicks I'll miss very to those once I wear these out an probably go tubeless at the same time for less rotational weight. May look at a lighter stem and sawing down the bars a bit though
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    1 layer of electrical tape will weigh about 5g.

    Folding will save you about 100g a tyre.

    Foam grips are a good one to try, often about 70g saving over a push on for less than a tenner.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    foam ones sound a good idea, bit of shock absorption as well possibly as ive no suspension. I did order a new chain ring today keep spinning out on this and hill were far quicker. Going up to a 38T narrow wide so I dont have to worry about a chain device. And yes, its purple!

    Tyre wise I had a look mine are 675g front 570g rear, If I go down to a 1.5 slick I can get 485g per side less if I got thinner. We are talking 200g 1.1's though. Im now looking around to see what else I can do to make it lighter blaming you for that! :evil: haha
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Lots of options available, a wired 1.5" will be about 500g (I've tried a few), a folding 1.5" will be about 400g, Schwalbe do a 1.35" Durano which is just under 300g (road tyre thickness of tread though) and for 2 parts of not much (about £7) Decathlon do a 1.2" that is about 425g.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    Ill keep those 1.2s in mind could be handy for the summer thinking these will be a little safer for winter or some semi slicks so least im not worrying about soggy leaves!

    Went out for a whiz tonight was very very quick feeling the bars need to be a bit narrower turning felt a bit slow for my liking being 710mm though is probably why. Ill see about chopping them down and possibly going with a longer stem if I'm too upright. defiantly noticed it being easier to accelerate though.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You certainly notice the improvement in acceleration the most.

    710mm is a bit wide for road use, my commuter is on 580's (flat, no rise and minimal upsweep) as it helps get past traffic, I run a 100mm stem, no spacers below it (all above) and the stem flipped (so it's practically horizontal) to further lower the front end, my grips are about 3" below saddle height.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    Im loving it to be fair, new ring turned up today £15 for a narrow wide you cant go wrong. Ill see about fitting it either tomorrow or the weekend. The camera really hates the purple unfortunately.

    38T crazyness ahead
    20141210_181939_RichtoneHDR_zpshqxaheqa.jpg
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    May find that a but undergeared, I run a 46t on my commuter and could just top that out in the old 11t rear downhill (over 40mph), but have recently swapped to a Shimano 12-27 cassette to get a slightly lower first gear.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    Did about 30 miles yesterday, cant really comment gearing wise route I went on was pretty exposed so i was battling headwinds and crosswinds most of the time. Riding downhill and having to pedal to keep momentum sucks.
    Hills were interesting not sure my fitness will let me do too many big hills at the moment but ill get there.

    I've chopped 20mm off each end of the bars so turning felt much better and looks less daft. Now im getting a lot of tingling in the hands though so would i be right in thinking i need a slightly longer stem? I used the bar ends to sort the discomfort for that ride but its not pleasent.

    Think ill need to start a thread for this bike its becoming a little obsessive!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Tingling in the hands can be many things, road buzz for example, the angle of the grip area (back and up sweep) or if it's like "pins and needles" it could be pressure reducing the blood supply.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    True, probably a combination of me holding the grips too tight and the buzz from the road, some of the roads were pretty rubbish and slippery with leaves and such.
    Ill give it a try again this weekend hopefully if its dry and less windy i can relax a bit more on the ride
  • Here's my 2013 Vengeance. Bought the middle of this year for a bit of canal path exercise. Had about 600 miles out of it so far, no problems apart from a faulty bottom bracket and the gears being completely out of whack from the off.
    AIZuCu.jpg
    AhCl8G.jpg

    Homemade front mudguard, crud catcher, and bikehut rear. I think ill be doing away with the crud catcher.

    Recently (last week or so) spent a bit of money on it:

    Conti X-king racesports and Conti Supersonic tubes to replace the standard 'robust' Kenda offerings and get rid of some unneeded weight. I'm sure the Kenda tyres on their own must have weighed nearly a kilo each!
    Selle Italia C2 gel flow saddle - mainly as a result of a 5 hour ride making mincemeat of my giblets.
    Deity seatclamp - because its red.
    Wellgo OEM Flat pedals (Gusset copies I think?) - Lighter than the original alloy pair, grippier from what I can tell. The main problem is they've turned out to be pink in most lights rather than red. I'll leave them on for now and see if they annoy me enough to get rid of them.
    The new additions are all untested and untweaked apart from a quick ride around the block, i'll update with any observations.

    Next up,RS Reba RL's up front and some Avid Juicy's. So much for a bit of canal path exercise eh? I'll need some lighter weight wheels; 'Carrera' really arent afraid of speccing portly gear on these bikes.

    We'll see what Santa brings...
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    There's a lot going on there, but it's looks good! The seat seems very low though, do you have very short legs?!?
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • Thanks. Yes I do have short legs, but not quite that short ha! The seat was there after putting the seatclamp and all the other gubbins on, it's usually slightly higher. I had little time to set everything back to my normal layout as I needed to leave for work.
    Ive got a few bikes, the parts and accessories have been switched around from place to place trying to find what works. I don't usually have the bottle cages on for example, hydration gets taken care of by an Osprey Raptor 14 (nice piece of kit) which I lent out on the giblet crushing ride I mentioned. It just happens that everything has ended up on this one leaving the other ones bare.
    I'm usually the nominated ride mechanic ( why is anyone's guess, I've only just started getting back in to bikes) so having the pump and toolbox always on the bike is handy. I don't mind a little extra weight when I'm out with friends on a cruise. If I'm on my own it gets stripped back.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Slightly higher? Should be about 6" higher!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • I don't have it quite that high, it works for me though so I figure that's where it should be. 600 + miles without any issues as I say. The bike was a bargain due to someone else making an impulse buy. It's maybe an inch or so too big for me, but I wasn't going to turn it down for the price. It meant I had a bike that was a bit more xc capable than the vitus vee 29 I'd been commuting on. My plan was to have this as a hack/tinker bike whilst I built up an On One Carbon Whippet frame as a 1 x 9 set up. When I finally got around to ordering the frame they'd gone out of stock in the size I wanted and have discontinued production in favour of the 456 evo's I think? Just my luck.
    As it stands I'm at a bit of a crossroads, but all the parts I'm buying can easily be switched on to whatever frame I end up with and I'm keeping the originals to rebuild the bike if I decide to sell it.
  • Here is my Carrera Kraken in completely original spec as far as I am aware. I bought it from a work colleague many years ago. It covers less than 100 miles a year as I am a roadie first and foremost. The only changes I have made are to replace the chain and add the bottle cage. Could someone confirm the year of manufacture for me? From reading around I believe it is a 2003 model.

    Thanks

    CKSmall_zps9f83ecaf.jpg
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Check the frame number, it has the last two digits of the year in it, I think that is 2003/4 as they only change models every two years.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks Rookie. The frame number is P3BM36720. There's not a two digit year by the look of it so do you think the 3 between the P and B signifies 2003?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yes, I forgot they only went 2 digit later and the paint scheme tallies with it being about that year anyway!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Here's my Carrera Kraken - I must have been a good boy last year as Santa dropped it off for me on Christmas day....

    DSC_8467_zpsc84a78a6.jpg

    It's my first bike (pedal powered) since i was a lanky teenager 20 years ago. They've come on a bit since then!
    Looking forward to getting filthy on it.
    Ta for looking,
    Nick
  • I have the same Kraken, got it in the summer.
    Just been for my first ride of 2015 and got absolutly drenched! Had to cut the ride short unfortunatly but the bike performs very well in the wet thanks to the fantastic tyres on it. I have lots of confidence despite poor weather.
    Hope you enjoy your new ride!
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    After faffing with stems etc on the kraken i came to the conclusion the 50mm was to stubby and kept my too upright. So popped to the LBS and came back with a nice 90mm Deda stem which feels great and actually looks better on the bike

    20150110_151216_zpskowuoo6s.jpg
  • FizzyArmilzz
    FizzyArmilzz Posts: 10
    edited January 2015
    Can anyone suggest any upgrades I can do to my Vulcan?
    Have just recently changed shifters, dérailleur and bled brakes, everything is stock except pedals, dont know what pedals are on it but theyre plastic.
    Have 2013 Kraken wheels on it with 2 random tyres.
    Have 2 brand new Halo Knobbler Tyres in the house ready to go when I need to.

    vosjkl.jpg
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Tyres and forks, the two most important components, although if you have plastic pedals then possibly a vaguely safe pedal will come first as they have similar grip to as if they were made of ice.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • I tried to remove these pedals but they wouldnt budge, what exactly do I do to remove them?
  • One side has reverse threads, so unscrews clockwise (left i think) If that's not the problem then try some shock and unlock spray used on cars and old machinery - don't get it on the brakes though.
    Framebuilder
    Handbuilt Steel 29er https://goo.gl/RYSbaa
    Carbon Stumpjumper https://goo.gl/xJNFcv
    Parkwood:http://goo.gl/Gf8xkL
    Ribble Gran Fondo https://goo.gl/ZpTFXz
    Triban:http://goo.gl/v63FBB
  • Hi all,

    My Carrera Kraken 2015 is completly stock and has had nothing done to it thus far.
    If there were any upgrades you would suggest, what would be the first thing you would change?
  • Probably brakes. Not used Clarkes brakes but some of the reviews aren't too favourable.
    Kraken got a good review in MBUK last month and came top of the group test.