Carrera Hardtail thread - owners pictures and spec's

11718192022

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Seatpost should be alloy not steel!

    The Hardtail frames are pretty good, although the later ones like yours are quite a bit heavier than the mid 2000's ones.

    Not sure you are at 11.1Kg though.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Ashfish
    Ashfish Posts: 8
    Apologies, I thought it was a steel seatpost as it feels so heavy.

    I will re-weigh the bike on my luggage scales but i'm sure it came out at 11.1kg last time.

    I have worked out its a 2010 bike originally (I really couldn't remember when I bought it)

    I had my front pads fall out of my calliper today after the split pin broke and fell out while riding, which was interesting.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I think the bridged top to seat tube is a 2011 feature, but would have been on bikes from mid to late 2010 anyway.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • asdfhjkl
    asdfhjkl Posts: 333
    Couple pictures with a bunch of upgrades since I first posted last year.

    zzivwlL.jpg

    vaqaF8T.jpg

    Swapped the Tektro cable brakes for XT ones with new rotors (SLX/Zee; 180mm front, 160mm rear). Huge improvement.

    Also ditched the SRAM x4 3x8 drivetrain and went 1x10 with XT shifter and XT Shadow+ mech. Using a Superstar narrow/wide ring on Deore cranks. Pleasantly surprised at the difference this had made - chain is so quiet over rough stuff and the shifting feels great.

    Bike is now 28lbs (12.7kg) on the nose. Going with a single ring was a great way of dropping a bunch of weight from gears I wasn't using. Not ready to go down the weight-saving route just yet, although it'd be easy to drop some weight from the wheels and tyres.
  • Skajme
    Skajme Posts: 16
    I've Done a bit more work on my bike so I thought I'd post a couple of pics.
    Converted it to a 10 speed, I spend 99% of my time on the middle ring anyway so it seemed to be the logical thing to do.

    bikecar_zps3jbitju7.jpg

    Got the I-spec gear shifters that bolt onto the brake levers. They make everything look clean and uncluttered. Very happy with them (quite hard to get a decent picture of though)

    shifters_zps65gbk7jt.jpg
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    Frame - 2008 ladies carrera vulcan ( I think thats the year)
    Fork - manitou minute elite pro ABS+ 120mm
    Crank - deore m615
    brake - avid elixir 3 hope saw 203f hs1 160r
    rear mech - X4 8sp
    chain - standard shite
    shifter - X4 rear 8sp
    F.wheel - hope XC, mavic 517, ACI DB spokes (~815g)
    R.wheel - standard shite (1180g )
    tyres - WTB vulpine
    Seat post - chinese carbon (204g)
    saddle - currently standard shite (420g) lookng for lighter one for a big female butt lol
    stem - superstar zenith 50mm (120g)
    bar - kinesis R750 (168g)
    Grips - SRAM lock ons

    total weight 26.2lb

    p4pb12293983.jpg

    p4pb12293984.jpg
  • dirkpitt74
    dirkpitt74 Posts: 518
    edited June 2015
    Have updated my post about my Carrera Fury.

    A couple of additional mods:
    Carbon seat post
    Mavic Crossride wheel set
    Shimano brake discs
    Nukeproof 760mm Warhead bars.

    20150615_205848_zpsnjo1yxd7.jpg

    20150615_205902_zpsxcpmjbrs.jpg

    20150616_180928_zpsgwy9msii.jpg

    20150616_180938_zpse9oweujp.jpg


    Update: 25-06-2015

    Fitted KS eTen dropper post last night.
    20150625_210259_zps2kel7g8i.jpg
    20150625_210342_zpsy1gdqxzx.jpg
    20150625_210242_zpsejvwb55b.jpg

    Only thing I might do to it is fit an in-line barrel adjuster on the cable.
    Currently the only way adjust tension is with the fiddly cable end clamp under the seat with a 1.5mm allen bolt.
  • Since I'm already a paid up member of the voodoo owners thread I thought I'd join this one too, picked this up from a mate at work as a full bike for the princely sum of £20. The components on it were junk so are heading to the bin leaving me with the frame and a set of Tektro IO cable disks.....plans are to build something fairly light for cyclepath cruising, possibly even SS.....

    IMG_20150617_222226014_zpsebosb2mv.jpg

    IMG_20150617_222237985_zpsxwknwzzd.jpg
  • Hi All,

    New to forum and new to modifying bikes.

    I have a 2013 Carrera Vulcan. It is completely stock.

    I will have to take a picture later, basically I bought the bike new, used it for the first summer and it's been sat unloved.

    I would like to change the forks on it, what do I need to look for? I want something lighter etc but how will I know if they will fit?

    Also do you have any tips on cleaning rust off casette etc?

    Thank You
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Forks, need to be 100 or 120mm travel, straight (not tapered) 1 1/8th steerer (standard these day) and disc mount.

    To remove rust, add lube and ride!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thank You :)

    Do I need any special tools to replace Forks?

    I've also read sizes such as 9mm, 15mm in titles but nothing about it in descriptions or it's left out... what does that correspond to?
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    There are special tools for the crown race removal and fitting but with care and a little mechanical sympathy it can be done with normal toolbox tools.

    The sizes are the axel sizes for the front hub. The hub needs to fit the fork, some hubs can use adaptors to match, some can't so be aware as it could mean new wheel time if you buy the wrong fork and the hub is unadaptable.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Always used a screwdriver and hammer for removing and fitting crown races, as long as you are sensible they work just fine.

    Your stock forks are a normal 9mm QR axle, you can't fit anything else without buying a new front wheel.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks Guys :)

    Really appreciated.

    It's very unloved, the wheels currently make less than one revolution when you try to spin them.

    I'm thinking the Clarks Skeletal brakes are fubard? I know they aren't the best out there but would be nice to eek some life out of them considering I bought the bike in 2013, used it for a few XC trails and not used it since :( (Less than 20 miles use on it).
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Could be anything, brakes sticking, bearings damaged, just go through it step by step, may just need a ride to free it off.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Yes I took a ride the other day with no improvement, was so difficult with my fitness level to keep on riding it, like riding through thick mud constantly.

    I'm going to tear it all down and see what I can find out :)

    Thank you for your help so far, already been great.

    This was the bike as I got it home back in 2013...it now has rusty components but it does have bright green grips and a different saddle than in this pic... Shame it doesn't look like this now.

    vulcan.jpg

    Would you recommend a nice set of Air Shocks to reduce weight? I'm thinking with new shocks and Racing Ralphs it'll knock 1.5-2KG off the weight which will make it easier to peddle?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    New air forks and some lightweight folding tyres will indeed knock about 1.5Kg off, it doesn't really help on flat smooth roads, but offroad and uphill you sure notice the difference.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • That's the thing Rookie. When the bike was new, it was fine on flat surfaces but as soon as I got to a gradient, I'd be knackered trying to climb. I know it'll get better with my fitness level but I guess having low pressures in the tyres didn't help. Plus the weight of the bike.

    I'll spend a couple of hundred on this and try and get some use out of it, then in the future treat myself to a full sus bike.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Getting knackered on a climb is often due to poor technique, in the right gear you do not have to expend any more effort climbing than you do on the flat, too many people try and go charging up climbs at the same speed and in the same gear they ride on the flat, it doesn't work, spin your legs at the same rate, create the same effort, select appropriate gear, I always giggle at the number of people who charge away from me at the start of longish climbs (2-300m in length) and yet I've passed them by midway up and easily beat them to the top, I'm not that fit (too old for that) but I am cunning!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    Bunged this together as my commute bike an lent it to a friend who did a charity bike ride with me, managed to find an old un anodised seat posts which looks much better. Did originally used rigid forks but he wanted a little comfort, after the ride I dont blame him. Performed well little squeak from a slightly untrue rotor and a rattle from the brake cable on the top tube. Had a quick spin quite a nice ride overall but needs a new headset badly.

    IMG-20150905-WA0009_zpstddp5muy.jpeg
  • This is my first post, I thought here would be as good a place as any to make an introduction as it was pretty much this thread that brought me to bike radar via Google. I have a 2015 Kraken that I got in September, I started by fitting a set of shimano SPD pedals and ODI Vans grips but soon moved on. The Altus gears have now been ditched in favour of XT mechs and XTR shifters and cables which has been a revelation, no more missed shifts, slipping out of adjustment or graunching noises. A set of XT M785 brakes has taken over stopping duties still biting on the Clarks rotors, I can now lock the rear when I want to and the lever doesn't keep getting softer. All in all its coming along well and copes with the muddy woodland around here. I keep eyeing up XT cranks though.

    I have no current pics at the moment but I'm sure some will follow.
  • From this morning's breakfast ride:
    9D8CAF44-E00B-4329-BB96-4E1176F39C89.jpg

    And a cockpit shot:
    CD36F8A6-621F-4365-B807-1EC1F9C1348D.jpg

    I did 28km on a mix of road and footpaths. Got home by 10 absolutely knackered.
  • Hi all,

    This is my first post. I've put a link to a picture of my Carrera Kracken. Upgrades include:

    - SRAM rise 40 wheelset
    - Panaracer XC Pro Tyres
    - Rock Shox Reverb dropper seatpost

    Can't get the image to work, but here is the link:

    http://m-hutcheson.deviantart.com/art/Winter-bike-ride-578497494


    Winter-bike-ride-578497494
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    winter_bike_ride_by_m_hutcheson-d9kf7iu.png

    Welcome to the club (except I've moved on), not sure I'd put a dropper on it, but each to their own!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Hi guys, new user and saw the carrera thread so thought I'd join in!
    Have got a Vengeance 2015 model with a couple of upgrades.

    Considering I havent riden for 10yrs plus up until 9 months ago, I've been loving the bike!
  • Hi there, first post on here so here goes! Seems like te place to ask.I'm wanting to upgrade my carrera vengence fork and have found this https://www.merlincycles.com/rockshox-r ... 74823.html

    I know I can't fit a 1 1/8 - 1.5 tapered fork, but am I right in thinking this one is a 1 - 1 1/8 taper so should fit?
  • bailsofhay
    bailsofhay Posts: 191
    No that's a 1 1/8 - 1 1/2 tapered fork. You need a fork with a straight 1 1/8 steerer or depending on your frames headtube you may be able to replace the bottom cup of the headset to an external style 1 1/2 cup and then fit a tapered fork.
  • Can't get a picture to go on here so will post a link to.it
    http://www.moredirt.com/ratemyride/bike/35299
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    35299.jpg
    There you are.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.