Project budget blower

JMcP92

Some new bits, though I may get grief for the cranks :P
I had full intentions to get the Shimano XT's but then I saw the offer, down to £200, I couldn't say no, BB included, ceramic bearings, carbon arms, could not resist!!

FSA K-Force Light Mega Exo 10sp cranks:


Maxxis Medusa Tubeless tyres:


Superstar kevlar brake pads:


While I'm here, another question. I was gonna pull apart the brake callipers to spray them and just give them a like new look, nothing special, just a little bit of a touch up from some of the scratching.
On the side, there is a large red hex bolt which controls the piston movement in and out. To spray it I intended to remove that but when I get it all lined up it absolutely refuses to come out. It will screw in if pushed, but not out. They are monoblock callipers so you couldn't take it out by splitting them, as you can't, and it refuses to come out backwards (away from the calliper body) I'm very confused, anybody give me some enligthenment on this? Just to clarify they are Avid Juicy 7 Ultimate's.

EDIT: Here is the part I mean:

JMcP92

Hey Folks, a question,

I'm getting the tubeless valves soon, but just thinking on tape. The wheels came with some Superstar stuff on them, but I've been told it is apparently rubbish, can anyone recommend me some good tubeless tape? Is there much difference between brands? Or is one just as good as the other?

njee20

It's a calliper bore cap - I don't know for sure, but I'd hazard a good guess that you need to remove the piston, then screw it inwards so it comes out of the calliper in the middle, rather than screwing out the back, where it would be at risk of being pushed out under strong enough forces.

Why bother though!?

It's not a hex bolt either, you ideally need the proper bore cap tool. IIRC the Hope one fits Avid caps.

JMcP92

njee20 wrote:

It's a calliper bore cap - I don't know for sure, but I'd hazard a good guess that you need to remove the piston, then screw it inwards so it comes out of the calliper in the middle, rather than screwing out the back, where it would be at risk of being pushed out under strong enough forces.

Why bother though!?

It's not a hex bolt either, you ideally need the proper bore cap tool. IIRC the Hope one fits Avid caps.

Aye, as for the brakes I asked around and it seems that bore cap is sealed against a hydraulic vacuum, which makes it near impossible to remove without an air compressor and then if it were removed it'd need new seals all around. Furthermore, even if it is stripped for painting, the paint would be taken off by the brake fluid fairly quickly. Which means if I did want them done it'd be a full strip and anodize job, which just seems overkill for making them look nice, no functional benefit so not worth the time and effort it would take to do, in short I've just decided against it for the time being.

njee20

A track pump will push the pistons out - just hold it where the hose goes in and pump! I imagine then the bore cap will come out, but yes you'll need to service it. Brake fluid will eat the finish, but they're painted at the moment, if the fluid stays where it should then it's not an issue.

JMcP92

njee20 wrote:

A track pump will push the pistons out - just hold it where the hose goes in and pump! I imagine then the bore cap will come out, but yes you'll need to service it. Brake fluid will eat the finish, but they're painted at the moment, if the fluid stays where it should then it's not an issue.

Maybe so, but very easy to drip just a little when you're bleeding, if you've stripped the whole assembly that is. Regardless, I liked the idea of redoing them but long run it just really doesn't seem worth it, they function perfectly so why mess with them? Replaced the pads and I'll leave it there.

Anyway, can anyone give me any more advice on tubeless tapes?
Superstar staff yay or nay? It is more of a tight rubber band than tape, all the same.
Favourite brands? Do brands make any odds when it's just tape?

njee20

Stan's. Just works.

JMcP92

njee20 wrote:

Stan's. Just works.

I'm making up an order for some of the last parts today and wondering what tape I need?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=38829

I have Stans crest rims, just not sure what tape width I need, any help?

njee20

21mm

JMcP92

njee20 wrote:

21mm

Cheers mate

Now I come across another issue. I've ordered all I need from CRC but I come across this:

Superstar 10mm QR - out of stock
Superstar custom grips - out of stock (going for red lock-ons + bar ends)
Charge Spoon Saddle - only in tan (just no)

This makes life difficult

JMcP92

So, a few new bits and bobs.
(Sorry for the obscenely high exposure, tablet camera)

Front & Rear Derailleurs:
Front: Shimano XT M781 (Unisize, dual pull)
Rear: Shimano XT M780 Shadow (Black - long cage)



Charge Spoon Saddle
(Yet to be adjusted correctly)



Stans 21mm Rim tape
Hope Headset Spacers
Stans no Tubes valves



AND

For anyone who noticed my thread in buying advice on backpacks, this is what I ended up with, 15L, 2L bladder, I rode with it this morning on the rat bike and I love it already



Lastly (no pic) I picked up 3m of cable outer, probably too much but better too much than too little

Now all I need is grips and the rear axle, just waiting on Superstar to get them in, should be about another month, very frustrating -_-

paulneenan76

I just put what is likely to be an unhelpful response on the C456 owners thread re grips and 10mm skewer ;D

This is coming along nicely. 3m will be enough cable with a bit of spare. Not sure about white saddle - it's gonna get dirty with our bloomin weather but the great thing about the spoon is its cheap to replace if you want to change it.

Where did you get the pack and how much?? My Costco one is a bit worn out.

Paul.

JMcP92

Paul, this is the pack, I paid £26.99, it's down more now to £20.99, it's great
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-luggit-slic ... tion-pack/

Also, in reference to your point from the other thread of top swing front mech, just to clarify, is this the correct type:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=67202
With a unisize mount

+White saddle may be debatable, but with the white fork lowers, white grips, white cable outers and a few graphics that are in store (simple, but should look decent) I like to think it'll work, I certainly hope so

pastey_boy

The tape on your wheels is Superstars rim tape not their tubeless tape, Their tubeless tape is fine and just like Stans tape but much cheaper.

paulneenan76

JMcP92 wrote:

Paul, this is the pack, I paid £26.99, it's down more now to £20.99, it's great
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-luggit-slic ... tion-pack/

Also, in reference to your point from the other thread of top swing front mech, just to clarify, is this the correct type:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=67202
With a unisize mount

+White saddle may be debatable, but with the white fork lowers, white grips, white cable outers and a few graphics that are in store (simple, but should look decent) I like to think it'll work, I certainly hope so

That pack looks good value, should be a good option for when mine gives up the ghost.

Front mech - Yep that's it. They come with with different clamp options these days so as long as its top clamp (which the one you linked to is) then it's done.

I like white but when you fall of as much as then dark is best ;D

JMcP92

So thanks to a fellow forum member, I now have the rear axle!

Last thing is of course the build. Now I thought about doing it myself but I just don't have half the tools, and by the time I buy some tools for a one off use, I might as well just have it done. So it's booked in to be built up. Looking for the 4th of April Can't wait

paulneenan76

Oh yes, it's on it's way. April? Not long then. You can always hang out with them while they build it up (if they are happy to do so). That's what i did. Got some photos, asked questions, picked stuff up, and any questions they had about routing and set up, I was there to answer. Sweet!

Nice one on the skewer btw.

Paul

JMcP92

Unfortunately the build may have to be (slightly) postponed, I changed my gear cables and they are taking some time to show up with the new ones. Not to say it'll have to be, but a little dubious....

On a more positive note, just got the job at the bike shop that's building my bike, this'll make for a decent summer job

JMcP92

A wee preview for you all, it'll be done soon

JMcP92

Om nom nom 11kg overall, Had hoped for mid 10s but I'm quite sure I'll live, I love it



















More crappy phone pics, I know, but new phone soon so Camera's shall be improved, bike is awesome though, very happy with it

JMcP92

Small update:
Fixed a few teething problems today, somehow the disc had managed to work its way up to rubbing the top edge of the calliper, no idea how, but adjusted that. Adjusted the front mech to stop any rubbing of the mech between gears and that's about it.

I would like to put some washers in the levers, because as they're used they bounce up and down a little bit in their housing, there is about a mil play vertically, nothing major, just me being a little OCD about it. Unfortunately it seems you need a lever rebuild kit to do this, it annoys me, but not enough for me to fork out.

As for anything else, took it down to Aberdeen beach today, 8-10 mile ride, nothing special but got some use out of it, weather isn't fantastic so getting there.

paulneenan76

I removed the rear wheel when cleaning the bike last week, but it seems the rotor is rubbing the caliper or pads, and have re-seated my rear wheel twice since - still can't sort it. What did you do to adjust yours? Any ideas what I might have done to have caused it to rub?

I adjusted my controls prior to yesterday's ride - swapped the brake controls around with the gears - moving the gear levers in board - really helped my braking.

Paul

JMcP92

Paul, I'm unsure why you'd have this issue, I just messed around with the tightening of the calliper bolts, tighter one a little and it moves the whole calliper a mil or so one way or the other, just try and work it out. Also, if you're working on the rear, you've got the brake adaptor to play with, try tightening or loosening the bolts of that a little, may provide better alignment? Regardless of what you do, just be sure you don't loosen any bolts to any real extent or you'll just have shaky unreliable brakes, not good.




Some pics from today - it was sunny in Scotland (true story):















Still not had the opportunity to get it dirty... soon!

paulneenan76

Good shout on the brake adjustments - I'll have to get on this one night this week. I need to spend some time dialling in my forks too as I think ive not done a great job with these so far and im not getting the full benefit. The weather has been great this weekend. i actually had to remove a layer 10minutes in to my ride yesterday good to see the sun is not just gracing the Home Counties.

So what's your thoughts on it so far, bearing in mind you've not got it dirrrrrrty yet?

JMcP92

Thus far thinking it's great, I occasionally concern myself "quite how strong is carbon fibre" when kurb hopping or something, but other than that all is well, forks are good, everything works, fixed my niggles and not making noises anymore, much like

lawman

How strong is carbon? Well a fellow forumite rode his 456 at antor stiniog today on the DH runs and it was fine and I've had zero problems with mine either, nor my carbon susser. "Curb hopping" should be fine...

njee20

"Curb hopping" should be fine...

I'd be bloody annoyed if my carbon road bike couldn't cope with curb hopping!

lawman

njee20 wrote:

"Curb hopping" should be fine...

I'd be bloody annoyed if my carbon road bike couldn't cope with curb hopping!

Honestly this thread baffles me, it really does a bike designed for 6" forks and he's worried about kerbs?

JMcP92

lawman wrote:

njee20 wrote:

"Curb hopping" should be fine...

I'd be bloody annoyed if my carbon road bike couldn't cope with curb hopping!

Honestly this thread baffles me, it really does a bike designed for 6" forks and he's worried about kerbs?

:P I think I've dug myself a hole here, not a genuine worry that it is gonna break, not at all :P I'm quite aware how strong carbon is. Just something you think of when the back end kicks up with a bit of force.
I'm very aware it won't snap in two

Rambo_123

How's The white grips? do they need cleaning after every ride? i'm thinking of getting some to go with my colour scheme but i don't want to end up with brown grips!