I would love a new frame but it'll be a work in progress

135

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Reba's?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Rebas? Yes that's a consideration. SIDs look a bargain but overall, I'm thinking it would be handy having a bit more travel.

    What about the dual position types? 120-150 jobs?
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  • So is it better to push budget for dual position forks? Or should I go halfway house and get say, 130mm, and hope that it does the up's as well as the downs? At what stage does travel become too much for going up-hill effectively? Ultimately, I want a fork that compliments the 456 carbon in terms of travel and weight but compliments me by being a very good all rounder, lasts without the need for continual maintenance, and doesn't cost the earth - most important.

    All thoughts, suggestions and advice, gratefully received. Good 2nd hand very much a consideration.
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  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    If going for the 456, consider a dual position Revelation. This covers a lot of option on travel and usage.
  • Thanks Supersonic. Revelations seem to be a popular choice but not seen many c456 builds with dual position. Is the coil version worth considering from a budget perspective?

    Thanks
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Seems a shame to lumber a carbon frame with a quarter kilo of steel spring.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • I take it that's not a 1/4 kilo more than the same fork in air format?

    So it's hunting down a black rock shox revelation, dual position, air, tapered, standard quick release, on a budget - not much to ask I suppose eh? :^)

    Typically, where is the best place to buy it new?

    I'll look here or fleabay for used.
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  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    The dual position forks have a very linear feel to them. They tend to almost blow through the travel, they don't ramp up as you go through the travel like normal rock shock forks. Not saying its bad or good depends on your preference.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Bike-discount.de is worth a try....

    Typically coil sprung forks will come out about 200-250g heavier than the equivalent air, not double checked the rev's specifically though....rockshox.com no longer list a coil Rev' anyway!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Ok, had a good-ish scour of the net and the Revs dual position are very pricey/more than I will spend. And the reviews aren't particularly good.

    I'm thinking that the 150mm revs air will be a good option. The fact I'm coming from an old budget coil fork, will hopefully mean i'll be blown away by how well they climb, and utterly gob smacked by the way they descend, that I won't think I should've got a fork with less travel. I mean, how bad can climbing be with 150mm forks?

    It's a bit of a bugger for me to get my head around :^)
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  • Torres
    Torres Posts: 1,266
    Some Revs come in an "all travel"configuration; which means the travel can be adjusted through the addition/removal of internal spacers. So if you get them at 150mm and they don't seem suitable you should be able to get them lowered a bit.
    What We Achieve In Life, Echoes In Eternity
  • Torres wrote:
    Some Revs come in an "all travel"configuration; which means the travel can be adjusted through the addition/removal of internal spacers. So if you get them at 150mm and they don't seem suitable you should be able to get them lowered a bit.

    Now that would be very handy way of checking travel suitability, not as quick as dual position but could offer a better ride at a definite better price I'm sure. So would this be denoted by ALT or RLT or some other abbreviation? How can I tell?
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  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    It will say All Travel in the description.
  • Starting to firm up my list for the On One Carbon 456 frame swop build. Preference would be the matte black frame with grey decals, rockshox revelation 150mm with 9mm qr and ideally tapered steerer (2nd hand or cheapest retailer needed), tapered headset (unless I can't get tapered fork), 31.6mm seatpost (Twelfty) and 34.9 clamp. Everything else I have apart from the correct front dérailleur format. Not sue which pull etc?

    Now im Just waiting for On One to drop the frame price down ASAP.

    Anyone got any advice tips hints or did a 456 build recently and are willing to share? Anyone know when the frame price will droog again, ;^)
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Onone's webby gives you all the front mech details of what they know will and won't fit.

    I suggest you search the my mountian bikle forum from owners and drop them a PM!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    If that was my build I'd just get one of their frame bundles - C456, 150mm Revs, H/set & S/clamp
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • Onone's webby gives you all the front mech details of what they know will and won't fit.

    I suggest you search the my mountian bikle forum from owners and drop them a PM!

    Will speak to On One on the derailleur among other things.

    Good shout on the owners topic. I've had a good lurk but sending them a pm would be really useful.

    Thanks
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  • If that was my build I'd just get one of their frame bundles - C456, 150mm Revs, H/set & S/clamp

    Yep I agree that it does make sense, or at least easier, taking the frame bundle. However, once I've factored in another £100 for a couple of bits I need and the build cost my LBS would charge I'm looking at nearly a grand and not the budget build I have vowed to undertake. I know that £750 for that kit is still a bargain but I would be happy to buy used forks etc., to keep the price under control.

    If there is a price drop from On One on the frame and frame bundle like they had recently, then I will definitely consider it as it would be so much easier. Here's hoping it comes soon :^)
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    the build cost my LBS would charge
    WHAT??

    Getting your LBS to build YOUR bike? NOOOOoooooooooo

    Doing it yourself is far more satisfactory!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Yes it is very likely that building my bike is more satisfactory but A - I really do not have the time B - I really really don't have the skills C - I will cock it up D - I will damage it and that will cause my head to explode...... I could go on but the point is, whilst I know it's great to build it yourself, it's just not practical for me. Now I do have a friend who is an expert bike mechanic who would help me (in a joint exercise) for beer money but I don't like to presume. Also my LBS I trust and they will not simply take off the Kraken and put on the C456 but sonic clean and polish every part meaning I get very close to a complete new ride :D. Plus, if they fook it up, they pay for it!!

    Spoke to On One and I need a top pull 34.9 clamp bottom or top swing front derailleur. Time to find a new SRAM x7 on the cheap!
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  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Frame swaps can be £100.
  • supersonic wrote:
    Frame swaps can be £100.

    That's what I've been quoted thereabouts. Of course I could get it cheaper if I shopped about but it's only marginal savings. Doing it on my own will cost me more I'm sure.
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  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    supersonic wrote:
    Frame swaps can be £100.

    That's what I've been quoted thereabouts. Of course I could get it cheaper if I shopped about but it's only marginal savings. Doing it on my own will cost me more I'm sure.

    But you will gain the knowledge for the next time :wink: as well as gaining the knowledge to tweak, maintain & fix every component & part of your bike. And of course the rewarding feeling of...I built this myself which is worth a lot more than a couple hundred quid...to me at least.

    I get far more enjoyment from riding my Rockhopper or Snap than I do from riding the session because I built those two myself
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • My preference would be to do a supervised build :^). But I can't garuantee that'll happen. I absolutely agree and love the idea of building it myself but time restrictions mean it'll take a very long time indeed :D.

    At the moment though, my focus is on getting the bits I need for the C456 which i don't have on my current ride/won't swap over. And of course waiting to see what On One do with the pricing of the frame cos I'm not spending £500 frame only :^)
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If you have a mate with the skills, offer him sensible money (£50 perhaps!) to do it and show you how he's doing, best of both worlds!

    The last bike I built, I had all the parts sitting ready to go and it took less than 2 hours from frame to test ride, admittedly that was a conventional internal BB and cable brakes and hydraulic take a little longer, but even so......that was in the Utility!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • If you have a mate with the skills, offer him sensible money (£50 perhaps!) to do it and show you how he's doing, best of both worlds!

    The last bike I built, I had all the parts sitting ready to go and it took less than 2 hours from frame to test ride, admittedly that was a conventional internal BB and cable brakes and hydraulic take a little longer, but even so......that was in the Utility!

    Yeah it's definitely the better rout in terms of A - sense of achievement B - picking up maintenance skills and C - cost effectiveness. But we'll see.

    Had an email from On One advising me they are not re-stocking the black non-decalled frame (I want black with grey decals) which points to an upcoming change in their 456 line up. Spoke to an On One guy today who said they have implemented a monthly sales strategy to replace the "what shall we sell off cheap today" strategy - who knows what that means in terms of my budget build :|
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Err...get what you can quick perhaps!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Err...get what you can quick perhaps!

    I took it as, 'we would like you to spend your money now please, not wait till we drop the price next month' ;)
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  • http://imageshack.us/a/img402/6263/imagekvv.jpg

    Hopefully these links goes to a imageshack photo of my new wheelset etc form superstar.

    http://imageshack.us/photo/photo/18/imagexda.jpg/
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